Very Impressed, I grow a lot of the same plants, but most are a couple years behind I think. Either that or or my brown thumb as most are pre-fruiting. A lot of my persimmon were planted spring 2010 as 3-4 foot but several have not seem mature fruit on yet. What is the average bearing age you guys normally see, and what age are you seeing consistent production? I want my table to look like Bob's from the "dinner thread" I have close to 40 Persimmon of varying from 2009 to new graft, but still can consume all fresh with no drying.

It all depend on the cultivar.The Roya Brill. was planted spring of 2012 and it had 4 fruits but kept one,which i should have pick-off too. For me shaping the tree is more important and because i have other tree's
to pick fruits of.
I will advice anybody not to grow too many kinds because most of them taste alike and that is why i will topwork most of them this spring and have things more manageble.3 varieties is plenty per single homeowner.Same with Figs and Paw-paw's.

Regarding the bamboo, in our climate it survives, the long frozen ground in winter, extreme low temps, and the highly available winter sun are problems. Taking special care and playing with microclimates can help, I just let it do its thing, by spring its different than the conifers and deciduous trees, with tan leaves still attached. But here is what it looks like right now for me, this one is attractive, is called Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'spectabilis.
{{gwi:122732}}

IkZ,

Nice to see bamboos with the snow. Looks like those ducks found a home. I may have to find a corner space for the bamboos because of their spreading shoots. Bob, IKZ is it easy to transplant a small bamboo shoot and root ball?

Tony

I love the look of your ducks. What kind are they?

Yes, it is easier than grafting,clumps can be very small to start and grow fast especially for a person with experience.
They spread fast. You might not see much grow the first year but things are happening underneath.Make sure that you know where you want to grow. ones they get a hold they take-off fast.They don"t need anything.

Yes, it is easier than grafting,clumps can be very small to start and grow fast especially for a person with experience.
They spread fast. You might not see much grow the first year but things are happening underneath.Make sure that you know where you want to grow. ones they get a hold they take-off fast.They don"t need anything.

Yeah, bamboo can start from a small start if taken care of. Mowing pretty much can take care of it where you want it. My birds like to hide and lounge around in it. I also like growing it for wildlife cover, too. There is a clumping one you can try called Fargesia rufa if you don't want a runner, but I'm not impressed with it.

I used to have buff, khaki campbell, and runner ducks, now generations later, they are mixes of that.

background shows what winter does to my bamboo, with their tan dead leaves. foreground shows what summer does to my bamboo.
{{gwi:122733}}

This post was edited by lkz5ia on Sun, Nov 24, 13 at 20:41

Lot's of Fargesia species will grow in colder zones, not just Rufa, in general they do not like much sun. I like the clumping ones better as I'm looking more for a bush, or specimen plant, not a grove or wildlife cover. We have so many invading running type plants around here, they are not appreciated by anybody. Phragmites, are a huge problem here. It's killing all the cat tails no doubt. So I have to explain to people that my bamboo is a clumping form that will spread beyond the clump.

Drew,

Do you know off hand some of the clumping bamboo varieties?

Strudeldog,

My Nikita's Gift is about five years old. and the Ichi is about 7 yrs old. The first two years it was potted and over winter in the garage.

Tony

Drew, Michigan has more favorable climate for bamboo. Rufa is more tolerant to extreme conditions than some of the others like nitida and murieliae. Clumpers though generally aren't vigorous enough in my particular situation. Phyllostachys genus is the best for vigor and the hardy species in that genus take a beating better than others. I've ended up killing a lot of bamboo via weather, was a fad to try about everything in mid 2000s for me.

I wish I could add Phllostachys, it's just the stigma here, and the recent trend towards native plants, makes it difficult. I can of course do whatever I want. But I need to live in a community. Your plants btw look awesome.
The clumping plants do struggle. Really they are more ideal for shaded locations even in our zones. Yes MI is a little better, well lower MI where I'm at. And I agree Rufa is the best one to try first as far as making it. If Rufa is not making it, I agree the running type make more sense for you. Well you have them, they look great! You could add different Phllostachys species.

You might be having trouble with the clumpers due to too much sun. As the ones you mention are actually supposed to be more cold hardy than the Phllostachys you have.

Some clumping types are really attractive if you can get them to grow. With beautiful foliage and culms.

For those interested to try, Google Bamboo Gardens. They list all the running and clumping types that are hardy. They have some super rare types too.
I have Fargesia sp. 'Scabrida' rated to Zone 6. It's doing OK. It's in a spot where it receives no direct sunlight at all.
Most of the cold hardy clumpers do better with only morning sun, no afternoon sun at all. I plan to add more if the plant does OK, it's young, and I need to observe it longer. I really want to add some of the Fargesia sp. 'Jiuzhaigou' cultivars, but they are expensive, rated to zone 5. So if Scabrida does OK, I know I can add Jiuzhaigou.

IKZ or Drew,

What do you think about bury a couple of blue plastic drums (55 gallons) to ground level and grow the hardy bamboo in them to contain their size. I am not sure how deep the roots go?

Tony

This post was edited by tonytran on Mon, Nov 25, 13 at 12:17

The rhizomes would go over the top. But you can always cut those. Even if 1 foot out of the ground, they will go over it. Steel barriers are usually used to retain, most bamboo nurseries sell it. Otherwise it would probably work. For clumping it is not needed. The clump grows bigger, but the roots never leave the clump. You can control size with a shovel to trim around the edge. Also you can move sections to start another clump.

awesome pics Tony!

did i miss bobs report on,rojobrillante? thats a graft that failed for me was looking forward to will,be regrafting this year.

Persian,

Bob has not report on the Rojo Brillante yet. Hopefully soon.

Tony

Tony thank you so much for the wonderful pictures, thatâÂÂs amazing how you grow all these in your zone 5A! Great work!!!
Tony I have a question⦠I receive a tree about 4 ft. long I ordered from Just fruits and exotic (Jiro persimmon) which is in 3 Gal. container now, do you think I can plant it now outside (end of November), and cover it good, and wrap it around,? Or better to keep the tree in the garage until March and plant it in Spring? I live in New York, Staten Island zone 7, but actually IâÂÂm in zone between 6-7. Thanks.

Leo,

I would over winter it in a garage and plant it next spring. This way atleast you know your tree will survive this winter.

Tony

Thank You Tony, I''l keep in the garage, and will plant outside in spring. Thanks again!

I am looking for some cuttings for grafting the Persimmon. I can trade some Fig tree cuttings

Hi Tony,

Your fruit trees are so amazing! I am very interested in your Pawmoya as I used to eat a lot of custard apples when I was still living in Vietnam. Could you please tell me where to buy this tree? Can I buy 1 or 2 from you if you have any extra? Please email me at mapuu001@gmail.com.

Thanks,
Van

Van.

I sent you an email.

Tony

Tony,

I just found this conversation and read through but have no clue of what the Pawmoya is. When another poster, Van, mentioned custard apple in relate to the Pawmoya question, is that the same or similar to "mang cau"? And how hardy is this variety?

Tom,

I found a wild Pawpaw that tasted like a Cherimoya and grafted to a seedling and I named it Pawmoya.

Tony

Tony,

How hardy is it and does it taste like "mang cau", the popular tropical fruit in Southeast Asia? If it is, can I buy a rooted cutting from you if you have any to spare?

I admired your commitment in wrapping up the persimmons yearly. All hard work pays off when it's time to pluck the fruits!

From your pictures of the harvest, I'm tempted with the Ichi. Is there a chance to buy a small tree from you?

Tom

Tom,

The Pawmoya so far handled the cold to -17F. It does taste similiar to "Mang Cau". Since I grafted the tree, the root cutting won't come true to the variety. You need to learn how to bark graft it. You can learn the bark graft technique on Youtube. In addition, you need to buy a couple of Pawpaw seedlings to use them as rootstock.
They are very slow grower. If you want to start them from seeds then I can give you some stratified (keep in the frig for 5 months) seeds next March. About the non-astringent Ichi Kaki persimmon, I bought it from Starkbros nursery about 7 years ago. I think you better buy it from them because if it winter killed then they will replace it for you the following year and you have to pay for shipping, and so far it handled -17F this past Winter with haft of the top died back and that is with wrapping. No fruit fruit this year due to the died back but the new shoots took off to 7 feet tall and 5 feet wide. Hopefully, it will be loaded with fruits next year. It will be safer if you want to grow the astringent hybrid persimmons like Rossyanka that can handled the cold to -20F or the Nikita's Gift cold hardy -12F( no died back) to -14F(with some died back).

Tony

This post was edited by tonytran on Wed, Jul 9, 14 at 15:58

Tony,

So far, my clueless understanding is root stock A, bark grafted with cutting B gives tree C that bears fruits not quite like A nor B but combined the flavor as C? Please correct me if I'm wrong here.

Or the pawpaw just simply provide a more hardy root stock?

Is there any particular variety of Pawpaw seedling to be used in this bark graft? (And I also need to learn that as well). Should I buy the pawpaw seedling first before acquiring the Pawmoya cutting or rooted cutting from you?

And I definitely take up your stratified seeds offer. Thank you for your offer and advises. I'll be looking for the most hardy non-stringent persimmon though...

Tom,

The reason we graft is to get the identical variety that we want. In this case is the Pawmoya.The root stock is use as a root system to feed the graft. That what is it all about. Growing fruit tree from a seed sometimes does not come true or the same as the parent tree. Grafting will give you the identical tree. yes, you need to buy the seedlings first and let it establish then graft. The best way is to buy t;he pottted pawpaw tree like Overlese, Shanandoah, or sesquelhana. They taste very good. Similiar to Mang Cau also.

Tony

Tony,

Thank you for the advises.

I'll try to get the pawpaw seedling first then contact you again for your cuttings purchase.

Tom

Tony,
Your Pawmoya sounds real good.I have some seedlings of the Kentucky Champion tree in their third year,to trade for scion or seeds.Early Spring is the best time to send and transplant,I think.Brady

Brady,

Sure. Next Spring.

Tony

Tony, I would like to know if you have persimmon scions avilable for trade or purchase. I live in the south and you have some varieties that I want to experiment with.

David,

Get in line! I have dibs! (Just kidding....glad to see you on this forum as well).

Tony was very gracious in sending me scions this spring and in providing me some great advice as well.

David,

Contact me next February to see If I can help. Take care.

Tony

Tony,

I'm still pondering about planting the pawpaw in my backyard. I just don't want to find out 3, 4 years later that it's not what I want. Is there any chance that I can buy 1 or 2 fruits from you this year, just to try out?

Tom

Tom,

You can order several of the Peterson's or other pawpaws at integration acres and their phone number is (740) 698-6060 or their email address is integrationacres.com . They know how to ship them well.

Tony

hey Tony was wondering if you had any more scions for sale I would love one please I live in fl thanks

Remind me next February.

Tony

hey Tony was wondering if you had any more scions for sale I would love one please I live in fl thanks

Tony,

Can you provide a link to your persimmon wrapping technique (with pictures) again? I remembered read through it but can't seem to find that again. Thanks.

Tom

Hi Tom,

I attached it for you.

Tony

Here is a link that might be useful: Kaki winter protection

Thanks Tony. Your winterized Asian persimmon tree instruction is good for my brother, who wants a persimmon BAD!

I've just put in an order with Burntridge Nursery for a Jiro and 4 pawpaw (Mango, Overleese, Pennsylvania and Subquehanna), to be split with my brother, delivery is in spring! Can't wait...

Tom

Hi Tony,

Beautiful pics.

I see your photo of Snowqueen nectarine. Can I safely assume you grew that fruit & did not buy it at the grocery?

Seems like a silly question, but... most reports I've seen say that Snowqueen is one the most highly-rated nects for flavor, but is NOT cold hardy beyond Zone-7, which is why I have not attempted growing it on my vacation property in Zone-6b.

Are you growing Snowqueen in the ground in Zone-5A Nebraska? Did it survive this past winter?

If you are successfully fruiting Snowqueen in Zone-5A, then all bets are off!

How old is the tree? From where did you obtain it? Was the fruit richly flavored?

Thanks in advance for whatever information you can share. Cheers,

-Matt

Hi Matt,

I like to push the envelope a bit on the cold hardy zone for fruit trees. I read about Snow Queen nectarine on Dave Wilson nursery web page and just want to try it out to see if it can handle my zone 5 even though it listed for zone 8-10. I got this tree from Duarte Nursery six years ago and it survived the -15F last winter without any protection. It did not produce any fruit this year due to the harsh winter. It has a nice rich nectarine flavor if not too much rain close to harvest time. BTW, I even grow Red Baron peach and it listed for zone 7-10. You just have to bite the bullet and try.

Here is a link that might be useful: Snow Queen nectarine at Duarte nursery

Tony,
I love the zone stretching concept. You inspire me to do more of it. Great looking plants ! I'm not sure how you do it.

Tony, can you grow fig in zone 5? I saw some potted baby fig trees at a local farmer's market for $7.99. May be I should try one.

I’m not Tony :)

But yes you can grow figs in zones 5 & 6. Your choice if you want to grow in a container and move the fig to a protected storage area for the winter, or grow in ground and cover it and protect it from the worst of the winter weather. Some varieties are less sensitive to the cold and survive better than others. Sometimes in ground trees in the North die back to the ground and have to regrow from nodes under the ground. But it is possible to grow figs in zone 6A-I do.

Thanks eboone! That sounds good. I will take a photo of the baby fig next weekend, just want to make sure that's the kind can take the cold here. I am in NY by the Great Lakes, it's pretty windy and cold, temp can go down to -10F.

See what the variety name is on the fig plant.

There is still a fig forum here on Houzz but it is not very active anymore. You might want more info on growing figs in ground or containers-if so do a search for the Our Figs forum. There are lots of helpful growers there

Thanks again. I am new to fruit trees. Somehow found Fruit and Orchard forum last year. After seeing so many lovely photos, I ordered a few trees.....then ordered more this spring. Lol