I have a 4 -in- one Asian plum from Raintree.

I've grafted my own multi types.If your east of the rockies go with Stark, as Raintree wont back their products like pears. I've been waiting on them for replies for a couple of issues like pseudomonas on the trunks of their pears and not letting one know what rootstock they don't have until the last minute after 5 months heads up.

I have 2 4-in-ones, pluot & Asian pear that all 5 of the original grafts took on. These are now 4 year trees, but only occasional fruit prob'ly due to 2 hard drought years & mild winter. I would go with separate trees with this many grafts & my lack of expertise--hey, it sounds good. With only two...should be easier to keep track of. I have to constantly check tags. Good luck with what you choose.

I have 3in1 Asian pear from Miller. Mine was grafted on some kind of european pear stock. It is so far so good. No big issue, expect , like Mark said, balance each type is critical for multi-grafted tree.

I bought a 4 in 1 European pear from Raintree. This is my first year with the tree. I was surprised that the Bartlett and the Seckel produced flowers but no fruit its first year. My question is about how do I prune the pear(s) so one variety does not overtake another. Haven't gotten to that yet as I will not prune till Feb. Waiting to see what happens. Mrs. G

I have 3in1 Asian pear from Miller. Mine was grafted on some kind of european pear stock. It is so far so good. No big issue, expect , like Mark said, balance each type is critical for multi-grafted tree.

Mrs G.,
I hope your tree does well. Prune the branches to an equal length or so.Heading away from the trunk,cut just after a lower positioned bud so it grows slower laterally out to fruit instead of vigorous vertical.
Noogy

Gotcha, Noogy, great advice as always. My fruit trees are now easier to deal with than my weeds!

Weeds... What a nightmare...

Thanks everyone!
I only have room for 3 trees in my yard, so I decided to go for the multi-grafted ones. I guess I'll just play this by ear :-)

Three trees turns out to be quite a lot.

A nice thing about a multi-graft is that with good planning you can have good variety that is timed to spread out your harvest and satisfy different needs in your household. It's nice, in this day and age, to not have to devote a large block of time to canning, freezing, storing, and so forth!

I am not 100% sure and other more experienced people can correct me or confirm, but I believe that the weakest variety should be planted so it will get the most favorable sun exposure. This can help prevent the dominant variety from taking over the combination.

I'm going to have an apricot with about 10 varieties (plums/peaches/apricots/pluots)... I have a few multi trees, but haven't had much time to figure out how hard this is going to be. I can say that keeping track of what is what is going to be my biggest issue.

I have two multigrafts, a 5 way apple, and a 4 way pear. 4 way pear is doing great. 5 way apple had some issues, and lost one graft to a fungal disease, but the rest of the tree is fine. First fruit is this year, the third year after transplant.

Frank - As far as I know, making multi species tree (even prunus) can be a bit tricky. The fun part is making sure the interstems are compatible with below and above stock. I know it can be done, but it was a massive info search to find out what species are good for what varieties. Although, it would be way harder if you threw some cherry in there.....

The other thing I see, is that the peaches will probably out grow the rest of the tree., and may end up being shaded, because of the usual 2/3 pruning you usually do to peaches in spring.

I know most apricots can be grafted to peaches, and I do belive some plums can be grafted to apricots ( there is a difference between japanese and euro plums for this AFAIK)