When you cut your whip new growth did not resume from the cut. Latent buds on the sides of the trunk must have grown the new growth you now have. Your instructions were to help you grow a vase shaped tree, I THINK. If you would post a picture of what you have, lots of us would help with advice. Al

I'd just see what happens when it buds out and adjust accordingly. If you don't seem to be getting growth where you want it you can head it shortly after bud break and results will probably be better than with dormant pruning as far as getting lower buds to grow.

The less you prune the sooner the tree will come into bearing, as a general rule.

I don't know why Texas A+M proscribes a goblet shape for pears- maybe so if one shoot gets fireblight you can remove it and not lose much of your tree. I train my pears to a central leader shape which works well and creates an efficient shape.

If you want the goblet shape they recommend than you should cut it back to the height they recommend again but wait until a couple weeks after bud break to make the cut and several buds will probably grow below the cut.

Thanks, makes sense, I'll wait till spring

Train to central leader.
limbs tip for short length.
Allow fruiting on bottom of limbs so pull limbs out and down you need use fruit weight to help limbs grow to 45 degrees and 90 to trunk tree in pear 90 about impossible so bending by fruit help.
Pruning only possible if tree growing so fertilizer like 10-10-10 by Tablespoon full 2 per tree get growth tree need. Any larger amount invite fire blight only use to get out seedling stage.

Here is a link that might be useful: pruning pear