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| I am seeking opinions on whether the following graft will work for scion and host. I would like to plant a new, bare-root fruit tree, cut the trunk back to 18-24 inches, and cleft graft another variety to the trunk. My goal is to have both the scion and the trunk grow so that I have two varieties on the tree. Obviously, I will pay attention to compatible varieties and patents, but from a viability point of view, will this work? Will both varieties grow or will one favor the other? Is this too much stress for a newly planted tree, and is there substantial risk of killing the host tree? Thanks for your thoughts. |
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| You'd be better off to do that graft the second spring. It will work some of the time the first yr but you are taking a real risk of not getting growth of what you want where you want. You probably won't kill the tree. But by the time you get everything growing it might well be set back a yr or two. I'd graft or bud onto side branches the second spring. Not sure I like your approach even the second yr. |
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| Thanks, Fruitnut. That's what I figured. I haven't grafted before, so thanks for offering from your experience. I was hoping to get ahead by a year, but I understand that it's probably better to establish the tree first before grafting to it. Appreciate the info. |
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- Posted by scottfsmith 6B-7A-MD (My Page) on Sat, Sep 20, 14 at 9:46
| If the tree you get is vigorous and healthy you can do this; I have done it a couple times. The main advantage is if you want a 2-variety tree you will get them the same size instead of having one with a year head start. The trick is to get only one or two branches of the original variety; too much growth from it and and it will overpower the graft. Scott |
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| Are you trying to create a multi-tier espalier? If so, are you sure you want the lowest tier at less than 1.5-2 feet? That seems a bit low to me, as if any fruit spurs hang down, they could be touching the ground. I think that if you do some branch bending (like tying it down to to a trellis) and rub out competing leaders, you can keep the bottom from overpowering the top. |
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- Posted by harvestman 6 (My Page) on Sat, Sep 20, 14 at 14:02
| I agree with Bob. The distance between ground, first tier and second tier is a huge issue. If you need to baffle out coons or squirrels you will need at least 4' of trunk before the first tier. What kind of fruit are we talking about and what kind of rootstock? Also what is the scion of the original tree? How are you going to train the tree? I guess to provide useful suggestions we need more info although FN is right that a bare root tree does not support enough new growth in spring to be a good candidate for grafting. If you are only intending to produce an open center tree like a peach that starts very low, you can start the branches that low (if wildlife is not an issue) and on the second year graft to the southern facing scaffold if you are worried about the others being far ahead. |
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