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| Hi All Leaves on my strawberry plant keep turning brown and dying off... Please help me save my plant, any suggestions are welcome... Borik |
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| Take a look at this "growing Strawberries in your home garden" -- at the link |
Here is a link that might be useful: strawberries
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| Hi jean001a Thank you for link it has a lot of good information, as being relatively new to this, I can't really tell if my strawberry plant have diseases or not and what is the appropriate action should i be taking now.. if any... Thank you again. Borik |
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| Borik, when did you plant these. They appear to be new transplants. |
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| If newly planted many leaves become damaged from the shock of transfer. I would remove them as long as some healthy ones remain. Strawberries do get a lot of foliar diseases. You really want to keep the dirt away from them. Looking at your plants it's impossible to water and not splash dirt back on them. You need to mulch. Pine straw is excellent for such things. Or anything is better than bare dirt, bark, shredded leaves etc. |
This post was edited by Drew51 on Mon, Sep 29, 14 at 7:53
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| I got them plants about 3 weeks ago and planted them in the pots, and then after 2 weeks i build a big box to replant them, and move the plants with dirt from pots and fill in the empty spaces with new "organic" soil ... Can i use any Straw, or Pine straw only? And i should be cutting off brown leaves off? How to tell difference between leaves damage from transfer shock vs foliar diseases? Thank you for all your help. |
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| It's hard to tell how leaves were damaged. Yes the straw in strawberries is from having to use straw! Don't use hay, as it contains many seeds. For me I can get pine needles free. So what I use. They need to be covered in the winter too! Look around at StrawberryPlants .org for info on leaf diseases and general info on anything strawberry! Yes I would remove damaged leaves as it could be a fungus, and you want to remove the spores on the leaves. Foliage disease are not that big of a deal, gray mold is! My biggest problem. I use Captan as a preventative. A key to using it is using acidic water to mix. The PH must be low, or neutral else it will not be effective. |
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| How often do i need to use "captan 50 wp" and what is the mix proportion for small amount like i have? Like how much of captan pouder do i use for a gallon of water and how much of it do i spray? Is there easy way to check acidity of water? Thank you for your help i really appreciate it. |
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| You could use cheap distilled water, or rainwater. Most tap water is basic, Acidic water eats pipes, cities add carbonates to make it basic. I have a large demand for acidic water. I grow blueberries which have to be kept acidic. I use sulfuric acid in rainwater. You will not need Captan if gray mold is not a problem, but also helps with leaf spot! 4 to 8 tbs per gallon. Use at least 6, These are label directions. You can view label here http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/backlabels/l171.pdf Spray till plant is soaking wet dripping, and try to get underneath leaves. Some plants can be damaged by too much captan, but I have never seen this with strawberries. The use of acidic water is not documented, but growers have told me this, and I believe it. 2 years ago I was complaining about captan not working. I was still getting gray mold. I was told about the acidic water. i tried it this year and no gray mold. It most certainly worked! |
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| Thank you for all your help i will got some straws and started to use it... will post pic later... I started to prune old and damaged leaves as suggested and found this on back of one of my leaves... some kind of small gray/white dot, any idea what that is ? Thank you Borik |
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| I'm not sure? I have little expereince with all the possible problems. It does look like a fungal infection. It is late in the year to treat. With most fungus problems I'm afraid all one can do is prevent, once there, it's hard to stop, if not impossible. Remove these leaves ASAP, and spray any good leaves. At this point near the end of the year, you could just let it go, but start early next year with a weekly spray. I spray plants till they begin to flower, then i stop, hope for the best. I don't like spraying flowers with anything, and if I spray fruit from infection, I will not eat it. Once fruit is gone resume spraying. |
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| I been reading a bit about it, it seems likely to be a WhiteFlies, and treated with Insecticidal Soap, here is a link http://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=9167 I will buy it today at HomeDepot and try it. Borik |
This post was edited by Borik on Tue, Sep 30, 14 at 15:59
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| Cool, good job, we don't really have a problem here with white flies, never saw them. Makes sense though. You know oil is good too, and even protects against fungi. White flies are rare except in greenhouses. So it may not be the problem. The soap will not hurt anything. This time of year here, all pests are pretty much gone, too cold! October tomorrow. I already rejunvinated my June bearers, and getting pine straw ready to cover them once they freeze. Still about a month away. I'm harvesting a few strawberries daily from the everbearing ones I have. They are still flowering too. I have mostly June bearing and daily harvests are huge in June. here is an example of a daily harvest from June 2014  The white ones are Pineberries. Awesome strawberries! i also grow Musk strawberries, notice the red seeds. These taste really different than any other type. Well so do pineberries, they are also very unique. |
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