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| Has anyone tried this? Where I live its fairly windy and regardless of how much I thin the fruit trees (especially the peach trees) the wind always seems to get the better of at least 1-2 branches- in some cases the entire tree. So I was going to attempt brace grafting on my already established trees. On my younger peach trees, I was thinking about planting them closer together (within 5 feet) and grafting the branches to each other. Generally I'd plant three trees in a group and graft the branches from the trees to develop a stronger support. Has anyone tried this? Any recommendations on how to proceed? http://treesandshrubs.about.com/od/pruning/a/fruit-trees-brace-grafting.htm |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| I used to live in a very windy area, Amarillo Texas. I very seldom had a tree break a branch. So my thinking is you aren't thinning enough. You may think you are but you aren't. My neighbor's and friends had broken trees due both to not thinning and not building a strong tree. The later could be part of your issue. I just don't think grafting is the way to go. If your trees are blowing over then they need a strong stake or T post to support the trunk. After that build a strong tree with wide branch angles and thin enough. |
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| I probably do need to thin more but that's not the only issue- We regularly have wind gusts over 60 mph- average is around 15- its the 60+ gusts, especially when they are out of the east (generally they're from the south or north- the stronger storms blow from the east to the west) that are an issue- the trees are thinned and strong enough until we get those higher gusts blowing east to west- I'm not very far from the Missouri River next to the loess hills so there are a lot of strong storms- all the other trees (apple, apricot, cherry, plum, etc) hold up well during the storms- the peach trees are the only ones that don't do as well - also they're not sheltered from the winds blowing from the east- my alley runs east-west and I'm at the eastern edge of town so there are no buildings or other structures for miles blocking the wind speed when it blows from the east |
This post was edited by kandituft on Sun, Oct 6, 13 at 12:49
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| Any chance a windbreak would fit and not look too bad. Trees if you have room or shade cloth. I've used 30% woven black polypropylene as a wind break. It will cut the wind force in half. |
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| trees would be iffy- there's a black walnut nearby (to the south) that affects what can be successfully planted nearby which is part of why I was considering the group of braced peach trees- I've tried making a windbreak of rugosas, honeysuckle, wisteria, westerland (rose), and autumn sunset (rose) but they're not tall enough - how are you using the polypropylene? did you put it up like a wall on the side you were attempting to block or all the way over the trees? |
This post was edited by kandituft on Sun, Oct 6, 13 at 15:13
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| Yes, I've used the shade cloth like a wall. There are other kinds and colors but the polypropylene is very tough and lasts many years. 40-50% shade might be even better. |
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| i might have to try using it like a wall- as long as its durable and flexible enough to take the wind gusts that should do the trick |
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| Strength? Yes! 30 yr old material as hail netting.
Here as hail, bird, and wind screening.
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| Fruitnut: What exactly is that material around the grape enclosure (specs)? Is it the same as the hail net? Did you sew it together? Also.. What size is your greenhouse?. Thanx |
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| Mike it's all the same stuff. You can see the sown on edging and grommets. It's all 30% black woven polypropylene shade fabric sold at many outlets. My greenhouse is 32 x 54 x 16ft tall. If I built it again it would be 2-3 ft shorter. I have had this same type hail netting over the greenhouse for cooling and hail. But just recovered with woven poly that will resist the hail. |
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