I'm not a chemist, experiment at your own risk...but i wonder if adding lime or something basic would help break it down quickly???

from Wiki:
Chlorothalonil can be produced by the direct chlorination of isophthalonitrile or by dehydration of tetrachloroisophthaloyl amide with phosphoryl chloride.[10] It is a white solid. It breaks down under basic conditions, but is stable in neutral and acidic media.[5] Technical grade chlorothalonil contains traces of dioxins and hexachlorobenzene,[1] a persistent organic pollutant banned under the Stockholm Convention.

Spray on the plants listed on the label.
Anything else is illegal unless you take it to an official hazardous waste disposal site.

Next time, mix up only the amount you will need.

It's hard to know exactly what you need, but keep spraying until the container is empty. Your are supposed to spray the tree but as long as its spread about as a spray on the ground it will break down quickly if you get tired of holding your hand up. A high percentage of spray ends up on the ground anyway- just don't dump it or spray it in one place.

LOL. You have less than half left maybe? We are talking about less than 1/8 of a teaspoon?? Just fling it into a mulchy area and it will be broken down by soil micro-organisms within hours and there's nothing to worry about.

The amount you have is the average amount of runoff that immediately goes into the soil under one tomato plant and nobody worries about it then.

In the big scheme of pesticide waste this is like worrying about two cents of the national debt. You should not be throwing it away, but throwing a teaspoon of used motor oil is a thousand times worse. There are no heavy metals in Daconil. It gets broken down readily in the soil. If you threw any pinched off tomato leaves in the mulch pile (not a good idea), put the cup or tow on them. The Daconil will be good a month or two if stored in a cool place, so that it another option unless you're done for the season. Maybe it will come in useful for some of the other 50 plants and trees listed on the label.

Whatever you do, don't put it in any water, pond, river or municipal supply (including toilets and drains. That is where it can do damage to aquatic species which are sensitive to it. In the soil it is neutralized and broken down before it has the chance to leach anywhere. Of find a friend trying to get another couple of weeks out of their tomatoes.

PC

Ok, thanks PupillaCharites. I kept reading online that chlorothalonil is a hazard waste, but I guess the amount I have is too low... Yes, I actually have 550 ml of it left. I think what I'll do is take each 50ml of the solution and diluted in a 1 gallon of water and throw it away in my garden. I guess next time I'll try to use the exact amount I need.

Personally, I'd rather not use a strong chemical on my tomato plants (unless if I were a commercial grower or had serious disease problems). I'm just trying to treat this pesky cherry leaf spot disease

This post was edited by Ghadames on Thu, Oct 2, 14 at 18:56

The problem with mixing small amounts of these chemicals is in dividing the required amount into such small fractions of an ounce that it isn't possible to be sure you have the correct proportion.

anyone care to know what a cherry plant is????

and why it is then called a tomato ... and the use suggested on such ....

and whether this level of stuff is really for produce to be eaten??

and why one might be treating the leaves of a deciduous tree in OCTOBER in canada???? ...

or on a tomato that will be a pile of gelatinous goo in a few weeks????

ken

anyone care to know what a cherry plant is????

and why it is then called a tomato ... and the use suggested on such ....

and whether this level of stuff is really for produce to be eaten??

and why one might be treating the leaves of a deciduous tree in OCTOBER in canada???? ...

or on a tomato that will be a pile of gelatinous goo in a few weeks????

ken

ltilton,

Yes, I did have the correct proportion. I used far less than the amount required on the label for cherry tree. I actually used a 1/4 teaspoon in order to get an accurate amount (or at least I tried). Next time, I will be super accurate by using a syringe.

ken_adrian,

I was referring to a cherry tree plant that is infected with cherry leaf spot. According to the label, you have to spray it in the fall while the leaves are falling (to protect the buds, I'm assuming). You shouldn't apply chlorothalonil on cherry fruits. I'm not using this on my tomato plants, so this has nothing to do with cherry tomatoes.

Ghadames - I think of disposal as a general problem for mixing garden chemicals that may have toxic properties, which is to say, most of them.

You get a more accurate mix with larger quantities where the proportions are usually given per gallon, but then are likely to have too much and a disposal problem. Trying to reduce the amounts to make, say, half a pint gives you a proportion measuring problem. A thick, sticky product like chlorothalonil gives you an accuracy problem, because much of the product will cling to the measuring implement.

Then there is the problem of cleaning out the sprayer, which will also have residual mix in it - a disposal problem.

SLIGHTLY OFF TOPIC.... BUT

Is there a general neutralizing agent that one can use to clean/neutralize residue in small sprayer tanks (2 to 25 gallon) for the type of fungicide/insecticides that we backyard gardeners usually use?

I have been using a 2 gallon hand sprayer and have had to refill it 3-4 times for each use so there was only residue left in the tank.

To clean before storage, I filled it with clean water a few times and sprayed it out, more to clean out the hose and valve mechanism than anything else. It was diluted by a factor of 1000's.

Next year I will be switching to a 15-25 gallon electric sprayer which may present more than a "residue" clean-up problem.

Thanx
Mike

mes111, some common household chemicals can used to clean your spray tanks.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cleaning Spray Tanks

ltilton,

I understand what you're trying to say, and never really realized that. The amount of tsps required per 4 gallon of water (as stated on the label) is way too much for my small cherry plant. So I'll have to rely on a syringe.

I actually sent an email to Bonide, and they gave me the same instructions as PupillaCharites did. Diluted it heavily and dumped into a gravel area.

This post was edited by Ghadames on Fri, Oct 3, 14 at 15:09

Better to dump it in high organic soil than gravel, although Puppy probably nailed it (although I hate being laughed at, LOL) and the small quantity doesn't require much caution.

The more organic activity the faster it breaks down and the more organic matter in the soil where it's dumped...

Most of my spraying is with a 25 gallon tank, a spray gun and 200 pounds pressure with the trigger open. I'm in the habit of trying to follow the rules to make sure I avoid contaminating the environment. I tend to keep spraying the trees until the tank is empty and actually try to do the same when I'm using a hand sprayer. I always feel guilty to dump out even a small amount although Puppy's right- this is a bit irrational.

Ferroplasm,
Thanx, but that link seems to apply to the commercial growers who are switching out different incompatible chems. My focus is to clean out between uses.

So... I ask our board members if the following statement is accurate.

AS IT RELATES TO THE HOME ORCHAD USING THE INSECTICIDES/FUNGICIDES GENERALLY MENTIONED HERE:

" BEING CAREFUL TO MIX QUANTITIES & CONCENTRATIONS ACCURATELY, AND SPRAYING TO THE POINT THAT THE TANK IS EMPTY, ...... CLEANING BY RE-FILLING THE TANK WITH CLEAN WATER AND EMPTYING THE TANK BYSPRAYING IS SUFFICIENT "

Please chime in.

Thanx
Mike

This post was edited by mes111 on Sat, Oct 4, 14 at 14:14