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Spraying program
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Posted by stimey 6 (My Page) on Tue, Oct 13, 09 at 13:26
| I have 2ea. cherry, 2ea. peach and 2 ea. plum trees, I am wanting to start a spray program. I dont see any real problems except on my plum trees. I am pretty sure they have canker, and I have one peach tree that is oozing amber sap above one branch. The plum trees look the worst with several splits running vertical. I know I am just going to have to take my time and learn what I am up against. I am seeking a general spray program that I can build on while I learn, and some info on if it is ok to prune out the canker at this time of year. Thanks for any help you can give me. |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Spraying program
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| Canker or gall? Canker is the absence of tissue- gall is a plant tumor. Google plum black knot and see what you come up with. |
RE: Spraying program
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| Thanks for the reply, it dont look or sound like Black knot. These lesions I have are running vertical, the bark is split open and on each side of the split is swelled some what. I have read about canker and fungus, looked at some pics of both and my trees look like what I am seeing called canker. I dont want to spend to much time on the trees if I am fighting a loosing battle. |
RE: Spraying program
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| I have seen trunk damage like that on plums struggeling from a difficult transplant. Where are you (climate), what kinds of plums are they, where were they bought and how were they planted? |
RE: Spraying program
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| I have Santa Rosa plums, I am in wichita ks. Let me explain, I am new at this, and want to learn. When I bought these trees I knew they had some issues when I purchased them, I thought this would be a good way to learn, at very little expense. They were purchased at one of the home improvement centers. They were 80% of regular price, that put them in my basket for under $5. Crazy methodology I know, but what better way to learn then trying to save a sick plant? I planted them in a well drained soil, I dug the hole twice the size as the root ball and set it to where the graft onion, or scion, or what ever it is called about 1.5" above the soil surface. I mulched around them, except next to the trunk. The only thing I see wrong is the trunk and limbs have these vertical splits, and that is my main concern at this point. These splits were on them when I purchased them, they are planted in an area by them selves away from my other healthy trees. I would like to see if I can save them and if not no big deal. I know I am fighting an up hill battle, but I might learn something in the process. |
RE: Spraying program
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| Santa Rosa's die in my nursery from cambium damage fairly regularly. They seem to toughen up when they get older, but many Japanese plums are susceptable to cambium damage. I think it occurs in early spring from a sudden drop in temp. Sometimes the trees will grow new wood around wounds and recover, sometimes not. |
RE: Spraying program
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| I should mention that it is often suggested to paint the trunk of such trees with white latex to reduce the affects of sudden temp drops. I do this with Santa Rosa and all my red fleshed Japs besides Methely as well as apricots. |
RE: Spraying program
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| I hope that is all it is, cambium damage, I will get to painting and keep an eye on it. Thanks |
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