Why use an inter stem?
I'm assuming you already have a established root system and want to reduce the size?
Wouldn't you be better to plant a M27 root based tree with whatever scion you want on it for your area?

We have a few thousand root stocks and I'm in Arizona (M27/M109/M111) depending on orders for what we'll graft I can send something to you. Just consider the options of using a inter stem in the low deserts, LV and PHX get smoking hot in the summers and in the past there's been some problems using inter stems. The main issue is viable compatibility in growth rates of root/inter stem/scion.

Turtleman no I dont have established trees yet. The lawn came out and I would like a mini orchard forest in its place. The 4-8 feet of mark, emla27 and p22 is very desirable to me but they need to be staked and have less wiggle room for mistakes which I am afraid I may make. They sound like they are higher maintenance. My growing conditions are little harsh. Zone 5. We are at 5000 feet in the high dry desert of northern Nevada. We are in the rain shadow of the Sierra Nevada Mountains with year round wind and deep sandy soil that dries out quickly even with mulch. The cold air also settles in this basin and gives us late spring frost and early fall frost. It is a short frost free growing season. I am afraid planting mini dwarf root stock will blow over and or dry out too much or in some other way not be as hardy. I have read that grafting mini dwarf stock onto hardier root stock like m111 or Antanovka can provide the hardiness of m111 root system and the mini dwarfing characteristics of the mini dwarfing interstem trunk wood to the apple varity grafted to the trunk. M109 will probably work but can get a little taller than I want to deal with. I want to stay on the ground and not have to lug a ladder or stool around the yard to prune and harvest. The information I found on the internet may be out dated so a m109/m111 may have to do. Have I got a hold of bad information or come up with some crazy plans? Can you recommend some links or books to read on the subject?

Thanks Dustin

The following information came from:

http://www.edibleforestnursery.com/ROOTSTOCKS_TEXT.HTM#Interstemtrees

Interstem trees: Interstem trees combine advantages of a standard tree (resistance to neglect, no staking required) and advantages of dwarf trees (small size, early to bear). Interstems on 111, 118, ranetka, and even antonovka are by far the best choice for low water use areas since they are even more drought tolerant than full sized trees because they have full sized roots but dwarfed trunks so it has fewer leaves to support. During stress, their roots are far superior and much more capable of providing for a high yielding dwarf tree.Their main drawback is suckering if the tree is not planted at the right depth. (cover the rootstock/interstem union by two or three inches). Recent experiments show that Bud 9 interstem (on antonovka) is even more yield efficient than trees on dwarfing roots. Interstems are grafted twice, one year apart, this is why they are more expensive. (First the interstem- a 6- 12" stem piece from a dwarf rootstock, is grafted to a tough rootstock such as MM 111 or antonovka, and then the variety, [such as Ashmead's Kernel], is grafted to the interstem.) I do not know if they would bear earlier than a standard in zone 3 but I would suspect that they would have a better chance than a dwarf on its own roots.
According to the Pennsylvania State University, "Interstems are becoming increasingly popular in Pennsylvania orchards. Size control is directly related to the length of the intermediate stem piece. Interstem apple trees offer a strong root system while reducing the size of the overall tree. Interstem trees should be planted so that a portion of the interstem is buried."
http://www.edibleforestnursery.com/AvailabilityRootstockIndex.htm
Apples on Bud 9/Antonovka interstem:
Interstems combine the best of both worlds: like a dwarf they bear their fruits young, they produce high yields per tree size, and they stay small (8-11 ft mature trees) and so are easy to care for and harvest. Like a standard they are free standing (no staking required unless extremely windy) and they withstand extreme neglect, (except from browsing animals). Their only drawback seems to be that they are known to produce suckers near the base of the tree.. To discourage suckering, bury the interstem/rootstock graft union by a few inches. Hardy to about 40 below.Zone 3.
http://www.edibleforestnursery.com/Available%20on%20Bud%209_%20Ant%20interstem.htm
Apple on Bud 9/Antonovka Interstem large roots, nicely branched- Interstems combine the best of both worlds: like a dwarf they bear their fruits young, they produce high yields per tree size , they stay small (8-11 ft mature trees) and so are easy to care for and harvest. Like a standard they are free standing (no staking required unless extremely windy) and they withstand extreme neglect, (except from browsing animals). Its only drawback seems to be that it is known to increase suckering as it grows to bearing age. To discourage suckering, bury the interstem/rootstock graft union by a few inches. Hardy to about 40 below. Zone 3.

3 Discovery: Rpns M Aug. V good to exc flavor. Some scab res. Prec. DoesnÂt keep. Zone 4.

3 Regent: Excellent med-sized apple. Stores til Jan. Res. to CAR. Susc to FB & scab. Rpns M Oct. Z 3

Dustin;
Why I made the assumption you were in southern NV is beyond me,, sounds like your near Carson City, I'm originally from Placerville Ca myself, so I understand your area now. Your on the correct path for the interstems and the information you've posted is correct. But you can maintain a 8' tree by topping to the height desired, a M7 or 106 should develop a firm root system without the need for support after it's established
Going back 30+ years when I was going to UC Davis they had (and still do) have about the best research in fruit production, you might have to surf the pages a bit at this link but there's allot of good information there.

Dustin,

How do apples in general grow in your area? Are they 50 foot monsters? Is there anything you can look at in your neighborhood to give you an idea of soil fertility/vigor?

In my area the soil supports 6 foot tall grass crops (the kind cows and sheep eat!) But all volunteer apple trees have been stunted, old specimens being maybe 12 to 15 feet tall max. Something about the soil is limiting them.

If your soil is poor, you might have better luck with full sized Antonovka. It is vigorus, but poor soil will control vigor for you. It is also very cold hardy. So is Bud9 and P22. But the Antonovka has far superior roots, and will need less attention waterwise than the poorer rooted Bud9, M27, P22, etc.

I do have a few Bud9 and P22 interstemmed onto seedling and Antonovka rootstocks. I don't think their caliper is 1/4 inch, though.

I only made two Mark/seedling rootstocks last spring, as they were for my observation only. I may just end up making more of those.

What you might consider doing is ordering a dozen Antonovka's and graft them to various interstems which I can send you. Home made is best!

Burnt Ridge has a pretty good price. Cheaper than Raintree. I do not work for either.

You might trial some M111 if you are going to try this out!

I ordered 25 B118 rootstocks and B9 interstem pieces from Cummins nursery. The B118 is more cold hardy for our are than 111. I also ordered a few Antonovka from Raintree. Last year I got a few P22 that I will try as interstem on both stocks. I looked hi and low and no one makes what I want so I am going to try to make my own. It is a great experiment and I am having fun.

I am making interstem trees here at Skipley Farm. Whip and Tongue as well as August chip budding. Reach me at gil@skipleyfarm.com

Don't be afraid to graft both the inter stem and your fruiting cultivar all at once. If done well both will grow well

Yes, I do both with 85% success

I am concerned with the brittleness of bud 9. A few of my 200 varieties grafted have snapped off. b9 and b118 seems to me a match...and I like the red leaves

I did some bud118 with bud 9 , as well as some antonovaka with bud 9 tops. I did the tops in the same year with better than expected results. 80-90%.

here is crimson crisp on bud 9, 8 years old planted 2-3feet apart, bent down and tied to the next. Still only 2 feet high, and super productive. A slight serpentine or curve in the "row" will keep them upright. A circle is an awesome approach to training without support. I grafted 5 or 6 p22 on bud118 I could offer @ $17 each