Zax,
That's great your growing them from seed. We grow lots of fruit from seed every year. If you are not familiar with grafting yet you might start looking into it so you can graft the not so good varieties over to something delicious.

Where would one go to get a specimen to do the grafting?

I'd check your neighborhood first.

A lot of commercial nurseries online sell them Zax. They sell usually for around $3 - $5 and you can get pretty much anything you want.
I think grafting to rootstock grown from seed is a fun and cool way to propagate trees. For starters it's free if you can obtain some free scion wood (not hard to do) and also because the result will often be a very nice long lived tree.

The cold stratification isn't really necessary for most apple seeds. I see it recommended all the time and it's a good idea I guess. Many seeds will never germinate without cold stratification, but apples seeds can be plucked right from the apple in most cases and planted straight away. Some apples like Fuji and Gala will often have sprouted seeds inside the apple...sometimes every seed will be sprouted.
Northern Spy is a good apple to collect seeds from.

This is all great information! I learn so much just from getting on this site. What about pear seeds... Do they need stratification?

Don't really know as much about pear seeds although I have grown them and don't remember if I stratified them or not. I don't think I did, or if I did, it was only for a short time. If you wanted to improve your success at growing pomme seedlings your time would be much better vested in studying the prevention of damping off. This is a major issue with all seedlings but, I don't think any greater than that of the pomme.
Warming mats (that are often recommended here) do indeed speed germination, but they also induce fungal activity something fierce. There is a wealth of information available online about this in applying fungicides as well as soil selection and environmental conditions.
1) Good soil (sterile seed starter stuff not needed but it is better). You can also pasteurize your own in the oven. I've not done this but probably should have.
2) DO NOT use the tiny seed starter trays (they do work ok, but they dry out so quickly)
3) Air circulation (this prevents damping off, but it obviously speeds drying too)
4) fungicide applications (sulfur.myclo and daconil are such good fungicides, but for whatever reason they do not function well at all in the prevention of damping off. There are ones available that do however. Read up. If you have some Captan around it reportedly works pretty well. Some use vinegar solutions which also probably do ok. As a side note; I think sulfur may actually work ok, but when I've applied it the symptoms were already there and likely the disease had likely already gone systemic. It "may" work...possibly well if applied early. Captan is almost certainly better though.
4) Sunlight (last but certainly not least). This is of paramount importance. It's energy is needed to drive the photosynthesis process necessary for growth. It also prevents fungal growth (how incredibly well it prevents it cannot be understated). This can be artificially provided, but I'd STRONGLY recommend against it. It is extraordinarily difficult (and expensive) to artificially provide the light needed for even a half dozen seedlings. Think about those pot growing documentaries you've likely seen on TV; same thing here. Advice here being wait until spring to grow your seedlings, further advice would be to start them outside in pots in a sunny area.
NOW..for all the things I recommended against and said would be difficult...well they are, BUT they can be done. I've done it, but it's a PITA.

Pear seeds will sprout in the fridge. Use a sandwich bag with a bit of damp paper towel inside.

Now the forth seed I've planted is sprouting through the dirt and one more in the fridge is germinated a little root sticking out :)