blueboy:

I've been ignoring mine for the most part. Haven't sprayed yet partly because I'm not sure it's thrips and haven't had them in the spring. If they hurt production then I'll think about control. Are yours hurting production? Because if they don't it's just a cosmetic issue.

I've never heard of a systemic for thrips. Could be one. Just be sure it won't carry over and kill the bees. Imidadoprid is death on bees. Not sure if it controls thrips.

Blueboy if having flower Thrips problem this link help http://floridablueberrygrowers.com/grower/growers-resources/

Citrus thrips cause a lot leaf damage you in low elevation area that there hang out 2,000 feet and above would be safe. The only Systemic is Oxamyl 10% here link with all insecticide been check http://www.plantprotection.hu/modulok/angol/citrus/thrips_cit.htm

As see in this link at bottom good coverage needed like high pressure looks like second spray needed less 20 days because hatching cycle.

Two methods I pick to do spraying one build plastic cover room close to air tight then use Foggers like ones use in homes 2 hours later open plastic 10 minutes remove plants.

Second to use pressure washer and 12 volt sprayer as feed in to pressure washer it works I use this spray veg. fruit trees pecan trees Greens all types. while spraying stay back from plant 10 feet this zone give total fog of spray.

Here is a link that might be useful: citrus thirps

Thanks for the replies. I was beggining to wonder if I was the only person on Garden Web whos got thrip problems. They do effect production by chewing on new growth through out the summer and fall. By doing so they stunt the plants and really reak havoc in the fall when that new growth is responsible for fruit bud production. Also last year when Emerald was dropping alot of fruit I thought it was a touch of twig blight but after more research Im thinking it was flower thrips responsible for all the aborted fruit. Im seeing it right now with Emeralds fall bloom. It blooms out and the flowers turn brown from thrip damage and they ruin the interal flower parts which make the fruit abort. They are nasty little bugs!!! I read about a insecticed called Delegate which as a different form of spinosad but similar with better residual. I cant seem to find anywhere online to get this stuff. Anyone here heard about it, used it, know where to get it???

I just checked online about Delegate,blueboy,but couldn't find a seller either.Maybe contact the maker,which looks to be Dow Agro. Brady

Right on Brady, I found that to be the case also. I will have to call them next week and see whats up! How about them Giants;) SWEEP

In usa Radiant insecticide used cotton veg. fruit started in 2012 thrips in southern states this year bad on cotton reported. Dow chemical dealer should have Radiant rate per acre on cotton 1.5 oz. http://www.plantmanagementnetwork.org/pub/php/news/2012/RadiantSCInsecticide/

Well I contacted Dow Agro science about radiant and delegate insecticide and they said its geared more toward commercial plants because the size and cost of the containers it comes in is not conducive to home owners. That's kinda of dishearting. So I contacted the A&M master gardener extension to find out there recommendations for controlling thrips and the woman I spoke with said she will research some info and get back with me. I think that I could change my strategy alittle bit and maybe some better results. For one I only spray the entire bush a couple times a year. One good spray in the feb and another good spray around August when the populations seem to peak. In between those times I usually just spray the tips of new growth to protect it while it's actively growing. I'm pretty sure there is a better spray program to follow and also interchanging insecticides to keep them from becoming immune to just one. I've never wanted to spray to begin with and if I did spray wanted it to be as organic as possible so that was the reason for using Spinosad. I'm gradually seeing that organic production is not very easy, especially in my area on the humid and hot gulf coast. Hopefully I will have some answers shortly. Im still on the learning curve, does it ever stop???

If mine show up next spring I may try Neem oil which I have but I think it kills bees. If not that hort oil. Other controls mentioned are predatory mites(Neoleiulus cucumeris), garlic, pyrethrum, hot pepper, and sticky traps.

Oil does a pretty good job on a lot of pests. But it does mark the fruits so I avoid spraying after the fruit colors. Not sure if it negatively affects fruit before it colors.

blueboy I live in vidalia Sweet Onion country thrips bad on Onions in February and March. The link below show price for quart lol.

Here is a link that might be useful: wow

Gator, you da man!!! Too bad it's $200 for a quart!!! That's almost price gouging. Hard to believe the woman at Dow Agro didnt know its available in small quantities online. A&M ag department called me back and suggested surround for Thrip control.

blueboy:

I guess Surround is an interesting option. I wonder if that would affect the eating quality of blueberry? I've used it on apple and there it's easy to wash off. Not sure it would wash off blueberry with a rinsing after picking.

I think a good plan of attack would be surround at bud break, then spinosad once fruit sets to harvest and then surround again during summer and fall growth. What do you think?

blueboy:

I like your plan. How about adding some oil in winter or before bloom and again after harvest? I'm going to spray mine this winter with dormant oil for sure. I spray most other things then might as well add the berries.

I've never used dormant oil. What's its purpose?

I use volck oil(ortho) on everything that goes dormant. Fruit trees, grapes, even roses and I spray about 3 times per year, fall, Mid winter and at bud break. It will kill all thoses criters that hide under and in the bark. Its a good start before the rest of the varmets come out.