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What are you ordering this season?

RobThomas
9 years ago

Now that we are entering the time of year everyone starts placing their orders, I'm curious as to what everyone has plans for.

Originally, I was going to order a couple of pecan and pawpaw trees. But after debating with myself, I think I've decided to keep it light this year.

I've decided to place just one order from Nourse Farms. I haven't ordered from them before, but they have good reviews and overall good prices.

I'm going to re-do my two raised strawberry beds. So, I'll order 50 everbearing strawberries of two different varieities. Though, I haven't completely narrowed down which two varieties, yet. Maybe Monterey and San Andreas. Ozark Beauty did well here, but they don't offer it. Seascape started off well, but quickly died out. I won't order them again. I'd like to try Mara Des Bois, but not sure they'd do well here, either.

I'm also going to order one Chandler blueberry to replace the one I accidently killed last year.

And, finally, I think I'm going to order one each of the three varieties of gooseberries that they offer: Invicta, Hinnomaki Red, and Tixia. I'm also not sure how well they'll do here, so they will be more experimental.

So, what's on your list?

Comments (95)

  • thecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
    9 years ago

    Thank you, Rayrose. That is just what I needed to hear. I sometimes feel almost guilty for planting more trees than I "need" (whatever that means) or am likely to be able to use myself. But you are right, life is short, and growing fruit is quickly becoming one of my all-time favorite hobbies. I also loved Chris-7b-GA's comments! It is sooo nice to see people here who understand...I mean really understand the joy of it all. My friends and family think I'm crazy too. About the only comments they make is "what are you going to do with all that fruit" or "are you going to be selling what you grow"? They all seem to feel the only possible reason for growing fruit is to make money or supply it to some other entity. Only the people on here understand the pure joy and satisfaction of seeing a tree grow from a small whip to a fruit bearing tree. For me there is so much joy in knowing it was the work and the decisions that I made about what to prune, what/when to spray, what variety to select, and countless other things we do and/or decide on which ends up working or not working. And like Chris, there is no other place in the world where I feel so relaxed and content as when I'm working in my little orchard. It's filled with mistakes I've made as well as some great successes, but it is all fun. Almost every day when I get home from work, even when no orchard work needs to be done, I walk out there and just go from tree to tree examining them...as if something has changed since the day before! But for me it is just so enjoyable. And as long as I'm blabbing on here, I will add that this very forum and the incredibly kind and helpful people here have also become a big part of my fruit-growing hobby and enjoyment. Here's hoping we all have a great year in 2015! Thanks for all your help and support.

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    I understand all comments here. I too am addicted to it. I have had plants for 40 years, just not fruits, I'm now to fruits. I don't feel like I missed anything. And for me too, it is about growing always has been, but It doesn't need to be fruit trees. Any tree does it for me. I'm going back in that direction. Many plants types are out there that are a lot of fun to grow. I want to try others. Last year I bought a Bamboo plant, a clumping bamboo. It's awesome!! This year I took five of my pepper plants and turned them into bonsai. They look terrible right now, but the end product will be awesome! Plus I get to prune, rake the roots, work on plants all winter! Yes!
    Why I asked myself what am I going to do with all these fruits?. So for me it's a valid question, one that maybe leads to a shift in what I grow. Well to see what perspective I'm asking the question. It nice to produce great fruit. But I'm not sure how cut out I am to do it? I have a hard time killing plants. That is another aspect. I have plants over 40 years old, they are like pets, I just can't kill them, or any plant for that matter. So hearing about pulling this putting in that, well that part doesn't sit well with me. I saved 6 pepper plants from dying. Part of it was I know they are perennials and can live longer. One I'm turning into a tree. I hope to get it up to 7 feet tall, it's going to be cool, and can live for many years. I realize this is my problem. I never grew bonsai in my life, but it was a way to save my pets. I did have to kill about 10 of them too, it wasn't easy, I had funerals :( no just kidding!! :)

    Bonsai is a way for me to grow more trees in a small place! Yes! These are not mine, but is what I'm shooting for, these are all pepper plants.
    {{gwi:125628}}
    {{gwi:125629}}
    {{gwi:125630}}

    This post was edited by Drew51 on Tue, Nov 25, 14 at 9:43

  • bob_z6
    9 years ago

    Drew- there is no need to kill any fruit trees, unless they are badly diseased to the roots. Just graft over them. Then you take advantage of the root system you've built and grow something else you want to try. Even better, graft 5-10 different varieties on there. I've got one apple with 20 and a couple others with 5. In only the 20 did I mostly remove any fruiting space from the original tree. The others all have at least 1-2 tiers of original branches, with the new grafts at the top.

    Grafting is perfect for collectors, as you don't need as much space. You can try 1 branch worth of the fruit before deciding how much more of it you may want to grow.

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    That's makes a lot of sense Bob. Awesome. Yes, that would be very acceptable to my point of view. Plus a multi-grafted tree is pretty cool. I have a 4 and 1 pluot, it's young, but it already is cool. Thanks, now that makes sense to me. What I need to do is let my trees grow out then add grafts. Although I'm moving and will have a new canvas to paint! I'm looking forward to that. But I have to wait three years, which sucks. So I will concentrate on small fruit for now.

    I'm going to try and graft unto a grape vine this spring. My first graft, I will move to trees eventually. I need to look up old posts on technique.

    Oh and stay on subject besides the 5 bonsai I added, i will add a 4 or so black currants this year.

  • bob_z6
    9 years ago

    I've tried both budding and grafting and have had zero success with grapes. I know others do it successfully, but so far it has been tricky. I don't have any excuses on the budding (other than being bad at it...), but I think the wood I used for the grafting probably wasn't ideal. Still, it seems trickier than apples, pears, and even stonefruit, where I've gotten ~50% takes.

    I have several vines along a fence near the driveway from the previous owners which produces not-very-tasty, seeded, disease prone grapes. I've been trying to graft over them for the last year and a half. I'll give it another try next spring. I'll also do a bit more reading, as it's clear I need a different technique.

  • alan haigh
    9 years ago

    Cityman, you may be in worse trouble than I thought. At least where I live late frosts following heat waves are not consistently destructive to common fruit varieties as I hear they are in TN- and some of the varieties you mention are pretty tough here.

    Make a shout out on this forum for growers in your area and scout out any commercial growers with an adventurous approach in your region. Fruit trees are addictive and unbelievably engaging only when they come with actual harvests.

    I think Hidden Springs nursery is in TN and the owners have probably tried growing everything that does well there. Maybe you should try to contact them for some advice on what's practical to grow where you are.

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    Cityman those plants don't look extreme to me. Bet they do fine with care. All gardening is local true, but the only way to really find out is to plant them. And if they don't make it..Yahoo room for more!

  • thecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
    9 years ago

    YIKES! As if I wasn't already worried and feeling over my head, then harvestman-whose opinion is one of those I've come to respect- goes and tells me several of my varieties may not be possible in my area! Thank goodness drew, another obviously experienced grower, helps ease my mind a little, not only by saying my varieties may not be all that bad, but I also appreciate his/your general philosophy "only way to really find out is to plant them". That was exactly my approach. Early on I asked people what the best varieties were for my area and the answers were either wildly different or the more common "depends on your own specific area (soil, microclimate, whether planting spot is wet or on a hill, etc etc etc.) Since, just as Drew51 said, growing really is local (very local) I'm just going to have to try. We've all seen people on here who have had luck with things that wouldn't be expected to do well in their zone, so hopefully I'll have some luck too. I also appreciate Harvestman's effort to keep me grounded and realistic about my chances with all my stuff. (I'd love to have all of you look at my list of trees in my profile and give me feedback). The good news is some of the things I planted I almost know won't work, but I thought I'd try them just for the fun since I had the space, time, money, etc to experiment. One example is sweet cherries. From everything I've read, my chance of getting Black Tartarian, stella, and especially Bing to produce viable fruit here in Tennessee seems extremely unlikely and I knew it- but decided to try anyway. Some of my Asian persimmons also are apparently unlikely to make it here too....but I wanted to try. Its part of the fun. I may not feel that way after I've nursed them for 6-8 years for nothing, but for now I am enjoying planting a very wide variety and keeping my fingers crossed! haha But thanks to you both for taking time to offer comments. I'll look into hidden springs,

  • alan haigh
    9 years ago

    Cityman, actually, from what I've read, the persimmons might be a reasonable expectation there.

    Drew's encouragement is misguided, IMO- there is thoughtful experimentation and there is chasing windmills, and they are not the same.

    There are regional limitations that are pretty much written in stone, without a greenhouse. I have been trying on my site for 25 years to produce kaki persimmons, and although I started by choosing varieties that are supposedly hardy in my zone I've yet to realize a crop of more than a few fruit- and that is by bringing the tree indoors for the winter. My favorite boyhood fruit of apricots took about 20 years before I stuck the right variety on the southeast wall of my house

    Not just cherries, but I also doubt you will taste apricots off your trees more than 1 in 4 years- and that is if you start with a variety like Tomcot, known to do reasonably well in the southeast. Nectarines will require much more spray than peaches, so you really should start with an early season variety- probably something from Adams County Nursery, and Babcock is a CA peach and likely highly susceptible to bacterial leaf spot and probably, due to a low chilling requirement, likely to flower in Feb, like your apricot and maybe Japanese plums.

    That is the little I can provide off the top of my head, not based on growing in your area, but I do read posts from experienced growers all over the country.

    Make sure you include some apples and pears known to do well in your region. They will probably be your most reliable croppers- they bloom later than stonefruit. Expect to need to spray.

    Just because it is not easy to find accurate local advice does not mean it is unavailable. As I suggest, post a request on this forum, Lucky lives in TN, I believe, and has decades of experience growing (and failing to grow) a wide range of fruit in your area. I believe he grows Kakis (and other fruit, of course). Nick England's nursery is in KY, I think, so he's another source of credible advice from a grower in your approximate climate.

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    I myself can grow anything here, tropical fruit, you name it, I can grow it. Hman is right, not everybody is capable of that.

    Yeah you probably made some bad choices, but sometimes you never know. Low chill requirements is not a big deal. Most of my plants will meet their chill requirements here before January, yet they don't flower in February, They don't know what month it is. Knowing how they fruit helps. Like blueberries with low chill tend to flower once temps are above 45 degrees. As long as temps are below 45 degrees they will not flower. Knowledge is power, as always I take truth to power.
    Hman's overly pessimistic view is unknown to me? I can grow anything, but would I want to? No, too difficult, but no doubt can be done. I might want to take on a difficult cultivar for breeding or something but would otherwise stay away.
    Best to at first grow known cultivars that are proven to work in your area. Then try ones that should work in your area, but are untested, then you can experiment after you have those two goals under your belt.
    I have seen your melons, you have great skill.
    . You could still probably change your order too. OK, I see you already planted them. Well worth giving it a go now.
    I was looking at Babcock and it is suggested for the lower south, you are in the mid-south, I guess? Not that far from ideal range, it should work! If not you could try the giant Babcock, which fruits later and has a 500 hour chill requirement. Still Babcock should be fine in your location.
    Local is not always a big deal. Tomatoes are tropical plants from South America, so sorry, I'm still growing them.

    This post was edited by Drew51 on Wed, Nov 26, 14 at 8:15

  • bob_z6
    9 years ago

    Harvestman, I'm curious why planting the apricot on the SE side of the house helped. Was it just a winter hardyness issue? I've always read that apricots should be put on the North, so that it is shaded during the winter when the sun is low in the sky. That shading would keep it colder and help delay it from breaking dormancy. I'm not sure how much difference it would make here, as by March the sun is starting to get higher...

  • alan haigh
    9 years ago

    It protects the flowers from frost, even if it encourages them to come out a bit early. It also probably protects the buds from extreme cold- my house is not real well insulated.

    I should mention that the fruiting wood is kept inches form the wall.

    This post was edited by harvestman on Wed, Nov 26, 14 at 9:56

  • rayrose
    9 years ago

    Cityman

    Why don't you talk to your local local extension agent about your plans. Mcminnville, TN is also just about the biggest supplier of fruiting trees in the country. Call those companies and pick their brains. Don't make the mistake of planting trees, that you have no idea are going to work for you. You have to learn how to garden smart, and that is not smart gardening.
    Understandably, you have what I call catalogueitis. You see pictures and glowing descriptions of all of these wonderful fruits, and you can't wait to see them in your yard. Find out first, if they will work for you, and if so, then buy them. It's like I used to harp to my Finance students. Investigate first, before you invest in anything.

  • alan haigh
    9 years ago

    Bob, if you ever want to check out my orchard during the growing, or better, harvest season, feel free to contact me. I'm about 20 minutes from downtown Danbury.

  • thecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
    9 years ago

    I am extremely grateful for the concern and advice of those who have commented here. I've never made a secret of the fact that I am a very inexperienced fruit tree grower and I often ask a lot of questions that prove it-though people here are usually too polite to tell me that. For what its worth, I have never planted a single tree that isn't listed as being suitable for my agriculture zone, though I fully understand that is only one of many variables that determine success. I should also tell you all that some of my worst tree choices were made the first year or two-when I was even more uninformed. So as you all have said here, several of my trees have almost no choice. But at this point I feel like I will just live with my choices-bad and good. I mean, what do I have to loose? Most of my trees cost less than $20 and I have almost never paid more than $25 for a tree (with a few exceptions). I absolutely enjoy the work and watching the trees grow and being outside. My trees are all dwarf or SD so it doesn't take that much more spray to apply to a few long-shot trees. Space is plentiful on my property, so that is not an issue. So any tree that never produces fruit will just sort of be an unproductive spot in my orchard and I'll still enjoy seeing it grow. If it dies, I'll replace it with a better selection. And while your comments are great, I'm not sure if you all realize that I've already planted 70 fruit trees, so its a little too late in some ways! Please don't take this as me disregarding the good advice and warnings you have given, I just wasn't sure if you were aware of these thing regarding my orchard and attitude. To address some other points: I have contacted my extension agent will be taking a class he organizes this spring. I'm also aware that McMinville TN is the nursery capital of the world. But its 2.5 hrs away and most are wholesale only and/or don't do fruit trees. Anyway, thanks again for all the comments and advice. Please just bear with me!

  • bob_z6
    9 years ago

    Harvestman, I'm about 35 minutes South of Danbury, so I'm not that far from you. I'd be very interested to see your orchard and will definitely contact you next year. I'd be happy to show mine off as well, if you are ever passing through.

  • insteng
    9 years ago

    I've read all the comments people make about asking what are you going to do with all the extra fruit. What I've done in the past is give it to a retirement home. The people there really appreciate the fresh fruit. I also leave some for the wildlife.

    I got contacted today by the nursery I ordered from and they apologized for shipping late. The weather has been bad here with a lot of rain so they are adding an extra tree for free to the order. They do not carry a lot of different varieties but the ones they carry work good in the area I am in since they are grown about 60 miles away from me. I was able to get about a dozen trees for around $100. I'll post pictures when the trees arrive.

  • rayrose
    9 years ago

    You're very misinformed about McMinnville. Just about every nursery in McMinnville sells fruit trees, and they will sell small quantites. I have bought countless trees from Cumberland Valley aka Fruit Tree Farm over many years, and they sell mail order, so you don't have to drive there. Most of their trees sell for well under $10 and are great quality trees. I've never gotten a bad tree from them. Check their website, and they will waive their $100 minimum order.

  • thecityman, Zone 7a/6b near Nashville
    9 years ago

    Insteng-what an amazing coincidence. While I'm not a senior myself, I do serve as the Chairman of the Board for the local Senior Citizen Center. All summer long I take all of my extra garden produce (and I have a LOT because I overdo gardening just like I'm overdoing fruit trees! ha) to them. It's not a live-in facility but it has a lot of seniors in and out and they absolutely love fresh produce and I'm certain that is what I will do with any extra fruit. So kudos to you for your like minded generosity.

    Rayrose- I am very familiar with fruit tree farm and have several of their trees. I have a local nursery that carries some of their products and I have their web site in my favorites, but the $100 limit prevented me from ordering direct- but if they will waive that I will try them. As for me being misinformed about many of the Mcminville nurseries not selling fruit trees, I based it on the fact that I did a google search for "McMinville nursery" and 11 nurseries came up. I went to their web sites or called all 11 of them and only 3 out of 11 sold fruit trees retail and one of them only had a few items in stock last year when I called. The other 8-9 either didn't carry fruit trees or they were wholesale only. But like I said, they are a few hours drive away so I'm not sure how much assistance I could get over the phone anyway. But thanks for mentioning it.

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    Yeah sounds like you planted all known cultivars in existence! The co2 levels around your place are probably very low! Better hire Hman to take care of them!
    Yeah to me that is crazy all right. Well I guess if I had the money I might grow that many but I could not afford the cost to maintain that many. Not without selling, and I don't want to do that. I'm available for adoption btw!
    Well if all goes well you should get about 20 thousand pieces a fruit a year. (a fairly conservative number).

    This post was edited by Drew51 on Wed, Nov 26, 14 at 15:33

  • RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)
    9 years ago

    Very interesting discussion thus far. I see a lot of dedication (or addiction) to fruit gardening.

    This year I added about 15 fruit trees. So in total I have about 27 fruit trees, 7 types. Some may not set fruits, some may be picked off by birds or deer. I can store apples for quite a few months. Almost same with pears. I can dry apricot. So I'm not concerned with disposing the fruits. At $15 or so a tree, this is not a huge deal. I'll have to think over if this is $35 a tree.

    I'm pretty much set on fruit trees and will only buy more if they die. I'm going to add more grapes and use the grape to make wine. That is another different chapter. All the extra fruits can be used in making wines.

  • olpea
    9 years ago

    Varieties I've ordered for this spring:

    Most of the stuff I already have, just ordering a few more.

    Blondee apple, Zestar apple, Pristine apple

    Peaches/Nects
    TangOs, TangOs II, BuenO II, Sweet Breeze, Intrepid, Challenger, White River, Honey Blaze, Redgold, Ambre

    Plums
    Victory

    I grafted quite a few peach trees and plan to move a lot of those to permanent locations.

    This spring will be my third order from Fruit Tree Farm (i.e. Cumberland). In the past I've been pleased with their stock, and more pleased w/ their prices. Although last year the trees were pretty small, that doesn't bother me, so long as they are healthy.

    This post was edited by olpea on Wed, Nov 26, 14 at 21:09

  • clarkinks
    9 years ago

    I've been expanding my apple orchard by half an acre this fall. I've decided I want to try more types of cherries such as Romeo. Turnbull pear is on my list as well.

  • ltilton
    9 years ago

    All I'm ordering for spring is some scion wood to try to topwork a couple of older trees I'm not so fond of.

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    What places sell scion wood?

  • Bradybb WA-Zone8
    9 years ago

    Burntridge Nursery indicates there is some scion wood available and they need to be contacted for more information.
    Robert Purvis sells Apple,Pear,Apricot,Plum and maybe a few other scions.He will email a list of what's available. purvisrc@msn.com
    Brady

  • clarkinks
    9 years ago

    Drew for scions of pears try http://www.fedcoseeds.com and for apples etc. try some of the ones I order from below
    ---------------------------------
    Purvis Nursery & Orchard
    1568 Hill Rd
    Homedale, ID 83628-3517
    208-407-6781
    ----------------------------------
    > Ron & Suzanne Joyner
    > Big Horse Creek Farm
    > P.O. Box 70
    > Lansing, NC 28643
    Antique and Heirloom Apple Trees
    email: oldapple@bighorsecreekfarm.com
    web site: www.bighorsecreekfarm.com
    ----------------------------------------
    Kumme and Clifford England

    EnglandâÂÂs Orchard and Nursery

    2338 HIGHWAY 2004

    Mc Kee, KY. 40447-8342

    Specializing in alternative crops.

    www.nuttrees.net

    Email: nuttrees@prtcnet.org

    Ph. # 606 965 2228

    See us On FACEBOOK @ https://www.facebook.com/Kynuttrees
    --------------------------------------------
    Northwest Agriculture Business Center & Northwest Cider Association

    www.agbizcenter.org

    tel: (360) 336-3727

    fax: (360) 336-3751
    -------------------------------
    there are lots of others that I know of other people use

  • clarkinks
    9 years ago

    Brady I think I posted a few seconds after you did. Bob has some great scions.

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    Most excellent thanks! I'll ask more questions in the future, thanks very much for the info!

  • bear_with_me
    9 years ago

    I haven't been on this forum much, except to read. I have a lot to learn. I have a small young hobby orchard with many varieties, and this year added several grafts and a couple more trees.

    Two weeks ago I made the following order:

    Pixie Cot Miniature Apricot - to try in container

    Arbiquina olive - also to try in container

    4X1 Apple with Akane, Chehalis, Honeycrisp, Beni Shogun and Jonagold - one of these 5 will be missing, but I won't know until I get the tree. This is on M 106. The selection is for supposed disease resistance. It is to replace a small tree that I grafted last year that died. I have Jonagold but I can graft on a whip/tongue of Liberty so it's not redundant. I also have a Honeycrisp on M27 but it stays so puny, I don't mind repeating it on a more vigorous stock. So that might turn into a 5 in one at the outset or in budding season.

    I could another paw paw if I can find a large specimen at the right time that has promise in my climate. I already have 3 small paw paws, so maybe I should stop there. I don't know how they will do.

    I also have a number of starts that need to go into the ground in late winter / early Spring. Got carried away last year with propagating, and now I want to make room on the deck for the apricot, olive, and a Bonanza genetic dwarf peach I containerized.

    I understand about not knowing how long one will be around. I'm glad I started the others when I did. Want a taste of my supposedly disease resistant peaches this year - Q-1-8, Indian Free, Charlotte, Oregon Curl-Free. Charlotte had one peach last year, ironic because it had bad Peach Leaf Curl. And maybe a paw paw, even one would be exciting. And a big bowl of mulberries... And.....

    Very interesting to read what people are growing.

  • RobThomas
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I live just down the road from McMinnville. I've purchased trees from Cumberland Valley (fruittreefarm) for the past three years, and once from Vaughn Nursery. I bought my trees in person. Both are top notch. Rusty Mangrum Nursery is also in the area, but I haven't bought from them yet, though they have very good reviews.

    olpea, last year I also bought White River from CVN, in addition to White Diamond. I was lucky enough to go out to the field to have all my trees dug. Nick, who runs the place, dug a White Diamond that had a little spot on it, so he dug a second one and just gave it to me. The Carolina Gold that I got there a couple years ago produced the best tasting peaches that I've ever had. He did say the trees were small last year due to a cool summer and way too much rain.

    cityman, give Nick at CVN a call. I think they may have removed his phone # from the website - the number they have listed now may be for the guy who runs the internet ordering, but Nick is who you want to talk to. I have his number if you need it. They also grow things that aren't listed on the website.

  • itheweatherman
    9 years ago

    Does anyone know where can I get a mongolian cherry (prunus fruticosa) here in the states?

  • clarkinks
    9 years ago

    Weatherman,
    I know they can be found wild in northern states such as North Dakota.

  • olpea
    9 years ago

    Rob,

    I've been wanting to try White River again. I had a tree of it at one time, but it died before it fruited.

    I can't understand how CVN can sell trees so cheap. Their retail prices are cheaper than many other nurseries' wholesale prices. They have more southern varieties of peaches, and I've been a bit afraid to try many of them, but it's a great nursery.

  • rayrose
    9 years ago

    Olpea,

    Most of their"southern "varieties average in the 750-850 chilling hours range. If you can handle that, I'd definitely buy from them. You can get a lot of them on Guardian for only 75 cents extra, and they'll waive the $100 minimum order. I've never gotten a bad tree from them. The only time that I don't order from them, is when they don't carry the variety that I want.

  • bear_with_me
    9 years ago

    Mongolian cherry seedling - see link.

    I just added another tree to my Raintree order for Spring. I figured there is room for one more pawpaw. After looking at many websites, it looks like Mango is a fast growing paw paw variety, so I ordered it.

    I saw on the Fedco site there are many varieties of apple and plum scion. So I'm thinking about adding some of those. I spent a few hours reading through 3 references for every variety I could find, for disease resistant, - especially fireblight - preferably old varieties, and think I will add Granite Beauty, Keepsake, Priscilla, Redfield, Porter, and McIntosh to my multivariety apple trees. May add a couple of plums to a plum tree as well.

    Here is a link that might be useful: mongolian and other cherry seedlings nursery

  • RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)
    9 years ago

    "I can't understand how CVN can sell trees so cheap. Their retail prices are cheaper than many other nurseries' wholesale prices. They have more southern varieties of peaches, and I've been a bit afraid to try many of them, but it's a great nursery."

    Cheap prices? Shop around. They charge $25 to ship one to five trees.

    Shipping Charges

    1-5 Trees: $25.00
    6-10 Trees: $30.00
    11-15 Trees: $37.00
    16-25 Trees: $45.00
    26-40 Trees: $60.00
    41+ Trees: Call for pricing

    It is good if you buy a bunch. The prices are fine, but there are cheaper sources with great quality trees....

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    They charge $25 to ship one to five trees.

    Not really that bad, who ships for lower prices?

  • bob_z6
    9 years ago

    $25 for 5 trees is pretty good. Cummins is right in the same ballpark with $27.50 for 5. At Bay Laurel, it would be $32.5 (minimum shipping is $19 ). As it is, I'm paying $58.50 to ship 9 from BL and $24 for 3 from Arboreum.

  • RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)
    9 years ago

    If I only need one or two trees, then $25 shipping is not good. Their peaches are cheap, but I do not need any more peaches. They have very limited selections on apple and pears.

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    I don't grow apples or pears myself. i don't know any other nursery that has 70 of anything. Very impressive.
    When I move and need to start over I know where I'm shopping. I was looking at peach trees at Raintree, and one if $35.00 jeez, it's getting expensive!

  • olpea
    9 years ago

    "Most of their"southern "varieties average in the 750-850 chilling hours range. If you can handle that, I'd definitely buy from them. You can get a lot of them on Guardian for only 75 cents extra, and they'll waive the $100 minimum order."

    Rayrose,

    Most of my concern isn't the chill hours, it's that a lot of the southern peaches have more of a reputation for winter tenderness. Last years colder winter hit some of my varieties really hard. I've heard the Prince series peaches are more tender, and I've heard the same about some other southern varieties, although I think many southern varieties (like Elberta) tolerate cold well enough. I have tried some of the Prince series peaches, I just haven't put in very many of them. Interestingly, CVN also sells some pretty hardy peaches, like Challenger and Intrepid.

    So far I've ordered enough to reach their minimum (I didn't know they had a minimum) but still have ordered some of their peaches on Guardian.

    "Cheap prices? Shop around. They charge $25 to ship one to five trees."

    RedSun,

    I have shopped around and CVN has been pretty cheap for me. My order for this coming spring is 9 trees for $106.50, which includes the $30 shipping ($11.83/tree).

    My current Adams County Nursery order for 25 trees (first price break at 25 trees) is $350 or $14/tree.

    I've ordered trees from VanWell, which is one of the cheapest wholesale nurseries I've found. Their wholesale pricing is better than than CVN retail pricing, but you have to order a minimum of 50 trees to get the really good pricing at VanWell, and I don't need 50 trees from them right now.

  • bob_z6
    9 years ago

    Olpea, that is a good point. Even though it was shipping in particular that RedSun brought up, I should have described the overall costs. Just considering shipping, CVN is competitive, but the price per tree really makes it shine. My BayLaurel order is $300.32 for 9 trees, or $33.37 per tree. But, it is worth it to me, as the DW trees I've gotten in past years were pretty nice and I was able to get most of it on Citation rootstock. The small Arboreum order (also mostly with Citation) is $34.67 per tree.

    The Cummins order is $151.85 for 5 trees, or $30.37 per tree. It would be more, but they were nice enough to continue giving me the 20+ pricing due to past purchases, even though my current order falls below the threshold. Cummins is similar to CVN in terms of selection, but for apples instead of peaches.

    The CVN trees aren't as big (7/16" vs mostly 5/8" or more) as those from the above nurseries (including ACN), but since peaches grow so quickly, I'm not sure that it matters.

  • Chris-7b-GA
    9 years ago

    Peaceful Valley has the best prices I could find on Dave Wilson trees - $20 per tree. Shipping costs are good as well - $20 for up to 9 trees and free for 10+ trees. The downside is a more limited selection.
    All of their peach varieties are on citation which, from what I have read, can keep the peach trees pretty small so I am inclined to stay away from citation for peaches. I would be interested in hearing others experiences with citation rootstock.

    Based on Scott and others experiences, I really want to try the Red Baron peach. I'm getting what I can from Peaceful Valley and going BayLaurel for the remainder of my Dave Wilson order.

  • RedSun (Zone 6, NJ)
    9 years ago

    I think we all have our own ways of doing things. My fruit area is pretty much set and I'm not going to buy 10 more trees each year. For a couple of trees, I'm not going to pay $25 shipping.

    The other thing is that, I do not want large trees. Two or three feet is all I need. I still need to train them the way I want. Four to five feet trees are too large.

    I care production more than the varieties. I'll be happy with Fuji apple, then trying some new trees I have never tasted the fruits.

    For CVN's 70 peaches, I do not know most of them. Some of them should be very similar and we may not be able to tell the difference. A lot of them are probably not good for my area anyway. So I am not going to babysit them for five years and use my valable garden area, only find out that I do not like the particular peach.

    This is very similar to growing many varieties of garlic. But the good things for garlic are that, not using much space, one season growing, low cost. I just do not plant them next year if I do not like hem, or they do not grow well.

    Anyhow, I'm not going to pay $30 or more for some apple or peach trees. Maybe once a while for some vary hard to find varieties.

    Happy shopping. Hope we have nursery black Friday.

    This post was edited by RedSun on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 7:13

  • drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
    9 years ago

    For me citation rootstock works well. I tend to have wet springs. Size is not an issue, I want them small. I have Lovell rootstocks too. Probably the best one for my area.
    I don't see any difference in growth between Lovell and Citation. When young they seem to grow faster on Citation for the first year. By the end of the 2nd year Lovell trees seem to have caught up. I suspect Lovell will be bigger by the end of the third year, still all my trees are 7 foot by the end of the 2nd year. I don't want them any larger so now begins the constant pruning.
    One thing I can say about Lovell, and it may just be chance. I have yet to lose a tree on this rootstock whereas I have lost three on Citation. One was for sure my fault, well maybe all three :) One I cut back, and it never threw new branches. One died from probably being healed in poorly. Another developed a canker. This tree is still alive, outcome is unknown. Canker is right at the bud graft, not good! If I replace this tree, it will be on Lovell, I found one on Lovell.

    As far as prices go, many I want are expensive. To me taste is everything. I don't need heavy production. Only the wife and I live here.
    When I move in three years I will have to start over and fruittreefarm looks good with the low prices. They have some top rate tasting peaches I want to try. Redskin, Loring,Redhaven, Winblo, Jefferson, Carolina Gold, and O'Henry. My only concern is rootstock. I prefer Lovell, but I guess will try guardian. I can see why they use it. Lovell is a terrible rootstock for the south because of peach tree short life (PTSL). It might be an excellent rootstock for here too.

  • bob_z6
    9 years ago

    I've got a mix of peach rootstocks, with a lot of Halford (CVN) and some just described as "peach". I have a 2nd year Citation, which is only about 6' tall. Most of the others grow quite a bit more by this point, as 6' (or more) is what I see in year #1. I don't mind smaller size, as with Drew I'm more worried about quality than quantity. The other big positive I see with Citation is that borers don't seem to like it as much. When I asked about this in another thread, the answers I got was that they could infest it in theory, but don't seem to as much. That matched my experience, as it was my only tree without any borers, including 2 which died.

  • Bradybb WA-Zone8
    9 years ago

    Legg Creek Farm in Texas has fruit trees starting at $8.75.Being in the south,a lot of their selection is for that part of the country,but some should grow elsewhere.
    When they had free shipping a year or two ago and I bought a few things.Brady

    Here is a link that might be useful: Legg Creek Farm

  • alan haigh
    9 years ago

    Over the last 25 years of planting here I've used whatever rootstocks the nursery provided for peaches with no discernable difference (not comparing carefully) but I've never used citation for any but plums. I think it's useful for E. plums and helps them bare a couple years earlier, but unless you are in a constricted space I don't see the point for peaches. Long term productivity of peaches is directly tied to vigorous growth and you can keep them pretty small on the most vigorous rootstock.

    I have a Flavor Grenade with citation rootstock, but would prefer it on myro. J. plums bear early anyway and the vigor of myro is nothing but an asset for J. plums if you have adequate space.

    I consider FG a J.plum becuase It has absolutely no visible or sensual characteristics of an apricot. If I was the apricot husband of the plum that bore FG I would sue her for divorce under the grounds of adultery. Must of been fooling around with some handsome J.plum guy.

  • Bradybb WA-Zone8
    9 years ago

    I just put in an order at Peaceful Valley for Elephant Heart,Emerald Beaut,Burgundy,Laroda and Mariposa Plums.Also Flavor King and Dapple Supreme Pluots.Along with those,Sweet Treat Pluerry and Double Delight and Arctic Jay Nectarines.
    I was going to try Orange Red Apricot but Johnson Nursery in Georgia doesn't ship to Washington.The bloom may be too early for here anyway.
    I built a little hoop house where I work and have been growing mostly vegetables.I am planning on using one of fruitnut's methods and grow at least two trees to one container and see how it goes.Usually the Summers around Seattle are not real hot,but there is no problem getting over 100F inside of it on a sunny day. Brady