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| Hello folks, I have tried numerous times with rooting powder, dip-n-grow and clonex to try and root cuttings from my Peach and Nectarine trees. I've tried in spring as many have suggested, I've tried air layering in the summer and fall, I've tried rooting cuttings taken from the trees this fall too. Every time nothing sprouts any roots. When doing the cuttings I always make sure there are at least 3 nodes. I've tried removing the outer layer of bark on some, while leaving some bark on, using different rooting compound products like stated above. I always use growing domes to keep the humidity up as well. Is there a secret to rooting peach and nectarine cuttings? If anyone can make any suggestions, I'd like to hear them please! Thank you! |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by scottfsmith 6B-7A-MD (My Page) on Mon, Nov 3, 14 at 16:42
| The secret is plant seeds, let them grow out, and graft. :-) Seriously, peaches are very hard to root. Some people have rooted them but it never worked for me. Root cuttings are supposed to work, but of course if your mother tree is grafted that will not be very helpful. Scott |
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| That was going to be my next step. I've tried sprouting some peach and nectarine seeds from my trees, but so far, no luck yet. Should I find some suitable root stock to graft onto? Or would you recommend I use some seeds from the mother tree, and then graft onto that seedling? |
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| Getting some root stock material and or the seedlings should work.Also,I don't think it will matter if the seeds don't come from the parent tree. Brady |
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| I agree, it doesn't matter what seedling peach you graft your cultivar to. I've got lots of peach varieties grafted to random peach seedlings. Some people on this forum have indicated poor success sprouting peach seedlings, but I believe that is related to the peach seed they are using. I've read many varieties of peach seed will not sprout (supposedly the early varieties are the most problematic). I've not noticed that issue, but I haven't paid a lot of attention. I just plant the peach pits (from drops) about an inch down and throw a bit of wood chips over them and they sprout. I don't let the pits dry, but plant them straight out of the peach. I don't give them any water or special care other than trying not to mow them off or spray them when they sprout. |
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| Hi, rkslander a lack of too little green thumbs maybe? As you obviously already know, there are multiple and less cumbersome ways to propagate a peach /nectarine. Since my command of the English language is not up to much, it seems to me very difficult to correctly describe all essential acts in details. I am sorry for that. Anyone can ask me by mail Best regards. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Rooting Peach cuttings
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| Nice job Alcedo.Thanks a lot. Brady |
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- Posted by milehighgirl CO USDA 5B/Sunset 2B (My Page) on Tue, Nov 4, 14 at 21:39
| Thank you for sharing this information. I have been unsuccessful with grafting peaches. The only problem is that you will have to know someone that has the scion you want and have them prepare it this way before they ship it. I will try this method with my own trees next year and see how it works. |
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- Posted by CharlieBoring 7 (My Page) on Wed, Nov 5, 14 at 6:24
| The problem is probably humidity. Repeat the process with the cutting/pot placed in a mini-greenhouse. It will take about 3-4 months to root. That is what a successful cutting rooter told me and I am going to try it next summer or maybe this winter with hardy kiwis. |
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- Posted by milehighgirl CO USDA 5B/Sunset 2B (My Page) on Wed, Nov 5, 14 at 9:03
| I just remembered a post from a few years back. Lucky said, "I've seen reports from 'oldtimers' that some pear varieties root easily by just sticking a cutting in the ground - but I never had any success doing that, even with 'juvenile' cuttings from clonally-produced(stooled) rootstocks. One thing that *might* be successful is doing the 'toothpick' trick - around Aug 1, take your pocketknife and make a stab incision all the way through the stem, just above a point where the present year's growth commenced, and stick a wooden toothpick through, to hold the wound open. Callus tissue will form there, as the tree begins to 'heal' the wound. Around Nov 1, cut below the wound you made, dip in your choice of rooting hormone preparation, and stick in appropriate potting medium. Many plants will develop roots from that meristematic callus tissue over winter, and the cutting will take off in spring. It's worth a try..." |
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- Posted by scottfsmith 6B-7A-MD (My Page) on Wed, Nov 5, 14 at 9:46
| Alcedo, very impressive!! I didn't understand a few things from your explanation but the pictures you linked to make it all clear. I think your wire trick is the key. It seems like this would help on anything you wanted to root. Scott |
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| Alcedo, thank you for sharing your technique for rooting peach cuttings. I will follow your instructions next year and report my results. |
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- Posted by Fascist_Nation USDA 9b, Sunset 13, (My Page) on Fri, Nov 7, 14 at 13:33
| Thank you Alcedo! |
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| When girdling, do you let the wire cut into the bark, or just wrap it tightly? |
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- Posted by scottfsmith 6B-7A-MD (My Page) on Fri, Nov 7, 14 at 16:11
| If you look at the pictures none of the wires are cutting all the way around, but some cut partway. Its too bad its late fall or I would be having fun with this idea now. Scott |
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| The images are very small for me, hard to see. When I click on the images it takes me to a tinypic website, not to the picture. |
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| Yes, wrap it firmly!, after a week this is going to be tighter this is a good sign this section gathers Auxin. (metal wire just visible) alcedo |
This post was edited by alcedo on Fri, Nov 7, 14 at 16:57
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