You can remove Loganberry, its not hardy in zone 6. Its also not really its own species, its a blackberry/raspberry cross and there are many of those. I think Tayberry is one of those crosses that will be hardy in zone 6, it was hardy for me and Logan was not hardy at all. Also thorny Boysenberry should be hardy in z6.

Arguta kiwis should also be hardy.

You might want to redo your list by species if you want to cover everything, for example under currants there are black and red which are different species and completely different in flavor. There are also other kinds of cherry, e.g. Nanking Cherry, which is a different species.

I don't think the hardy citrus is considered a fruit in terms of growing to eat. There are many things you could eat if you had to, dogwood, sorbus (although shipova, a pyrus/sorbus cross, is supposed to be OK).

Scott

Cranberry and Lingonberry

Since you've included goumi and sea buckthorn as well as some other minor fruits you should also include autumn olive, trebizond date (a variety of Russian olive), and possibly the native Shepherdias (three species). Also sugar plum (Diospyros lotus), and Ume (Prunus mume) are both said to be hardy to zone 6. I hope others will continue to chime in with more...

If you want to get technical, there are several ways to approach this list: by genus, by species, or by cultivar.

You've done it mostly by a general common name for the fruit itself, which works fine for some things like apricot or che melon, but glosses over too much with just about everything else, as scott already pointed out. In some instances it actually differentiates more than you might realize: nectarine is just a fuzzless peach (officially a subspecies) that is hard to distinguish from the latter except when fruiting, but it ends up getting a separate spot on the list while things like prickly pear, elderberry, currant, mulberry, raspberry, etc... are lumped under one name even though they come in many different species with very different fruit.

Sorry for rambling...

I believe the Chicago Hardy name came from a Chicago fig grower that kept them in a protected south facing area. Even then they died back to the ground most years. Under orchard conditions, figs are not going to make it in zone 6.

Figs are plenty hardy to survive zone 6...
Mine(brown turkey and black mission) have survived for four winters in zone 6, including an all-time record low for the area, of -23. They have no protection, but are growing along the south side of the house. Unfortunately, they also rarely fruit...

I don't think there is a question whether figs will survive in zone 6, even under "orchard conditions", but whether they can fruit after being frozen to the ground some or most winters. Many varieties supposedly will do this, including Chicago Hardy.

I'm not crazy about figs, so I have not bothered getting a more suitable variety for my climate, but anybody who likes figs should certainly try them in zone 6, especially if you're willing to give them a good warm microclimate or throw some mulch or tunnel over them each winter. Pay close attention to the variety you choose, to help ensure the possibility of a fall crop of fruit.