I have one in my back yard with several varieties grafted on it. Orient, Moonglow, Ayers, and an unknown Asian variety. I'm sure many others will also be successful. Learn to graft and you can quickly turn the large trees into an orchard. Good Luck, Bill

How successful can you dig up the seedling? I think I'll have to move the tree when it is small and have to use all branches before it grows large.

This thing can grow to huge size, if left alone.

RedSun.
Replanting depends on a few factors such as how large is the tree and can you easily dig up most of the roots. In general I have done well digging and replanting. The smaller the tree the easier it is. The tree in my back yard was located near my property line and it was about 4â high. Five years later it is about 12â high and about 15â wide. I always stake my transplants for one to two years and water as needed during that time. The size of the tree is influenced by the roostock but in your case it will mostly take on the size characteristics of the scion used. If you use disease resistant varieties you will do well (fireblight resistant). If possible use trees that donâÂÂt require replanting. Large trees can be grafted thus saving you many years of waiting for them to start bearing fruit. Pears are easy. Good luck. Bill

I think most fruiting pears can be - in fact, that was the original reason it was imported to N. America - to be a rootstock for fruiting pear varieties.

It seems if I graft several scion woods on a large rootstock, then I'll just use a few limbs and let the rest grow to a native wild tree....

The other way is to top it and use all the branches.

RedSun.
Although you will want to leave a few feeder limbs for a few years, in the long run I would eventually have only the fruiting varieties on my larger trees. Of course that is your decision. You might want to watch some top working pear or apple youtube videos. If you have not attempted this before just do a little research and you will soon be good at it. Good luck, Bill

The way I have done it in the past is cut the top of the tree off and top work the tree using cleft or rind grafting methods. In two or three years you will have more pears than you know what do with. I have grafted seckle, clapps favorite, Bartlett, ayers, kieffer, Clara frijs, duchess, and a few varieties I don't recall at the moment onto callery rootstock. I have transplanted them in rows as well and it does temporarily stop them from growing. The trees I moved were set back by two years but did not die. The roots I left behind grew more trees and I transplanted those this year.

Besides pears and Asian pears, which I've grafted multiple times onto volunteer calleries, I've also heard that medlars can be grafted onto callery.

I would like to try medlars. Quince might grow on callery. It's certainly worth an experiment.