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Vole Control
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Posted by
orchardace 6 (
My Page) on
Sun, Nov 23, 14 at 22:38
I have been dealing with a plague of field mice. The little devils have destroyed a good number of trees in a nursery that was established to seed my orchard. There population got out of control because I used cardboard and mulch to keep the weeds down and did not keep the adjoining field mowed. I have been doing damage control with poison and have started wrapping trees with aluminum foil. The trees that have been totally destroyed were those where they tunneled in and gnawed below the soil surface. Now I'm wondering if subsurface damage caused some of the trees to weaken and die that I planned in the last couple of years. I'm thinking of mixing in some broken glass our oyster shells in the soil around the roots when I plant the trees out in the orchard. Any other advice on stopping voles from eating the roots of my fruit trees? |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Vole Control
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Orchardace...when you figure it all out let me know too. The broken glass seems like a great idea, but it won't work either...long story on how I know this. They tunnel right through it seemingly unscathed...don't ask me how, but they do. If you had declining trees in the presence of heavy mole population they most likely are responsible. I had a young 1 year old peach bite the dust from them. When I dug it out to autopsy the roots the gnawing damage and lack of roots was unmistakable. It slowly declined just like a tree without adequate moisture and after seeing the roots chewed away it was surprising it held on as long as it did. It seems here in my area it has been really bad the last few years. I had hoped the brutal winter would have reduced their numbers...no such luck. Hate 'em. |
RE: Vole Control
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| There are meadow voles and pine voles in NY where I am- in southern NY pine voles are quite common and they are subterranean root feeders. They are sometimes difficult to poison because they supposedly only come to the surface for food during a rather narrow window in the fall. I help manage a small commercial orchard where they poison them with devices that you stick into the ground made out of pvc pipe. They use similar devices to kill gophers in CA. At my own orchard and nursery I manage to keep them under control with bait stations on the surface which I'm cycling through my nursery and orchard right now. I used to just use baited traps instead of poison, placing them under trays, but other wildlife has started taking the bait in recent years because we've not been getting normal acorn crops. This also means there is more competition for the seeds that meadow voles eat, I think. Normally they only eat bark in the winter. I don't know how well glass will work but that was sometimes used for gophers when I was a boy and young man in CA. |
RE: Vole Control
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| Only closely mowing the grass and weeds seems to prevent the voles for me. But if any tall grass and weeds, or piles of firewood, or tarps and other stuff are nearby, they seem to establish themselves. In this case the close mowing won't help unless your trees are far enough away. The only thing that seems to keep them at bay is to give them no place to hide. I use the hardware cloth but they have tunneled underneath it and girdled trees....otherwise it seems to work. |
RE: Vole Control
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I too have a great crop of voles, thanks to favorable conditions the past couple years- big snowpack, my mulching habits and lack of mowing, also growing grain and rootcrops in my orchard aisles. I do the hardware cloth 18" up all my trees, keep the weeds back at least 18" from trunks, periodically do a 'indian war dance' around the trunks to flatten out any tunnels in that zone. This year I've started baiting with an OMRI-approved rodentcide, placing stations around my nursery zone. I'm wondering if I need to get a pack of orchard cats, terrier, or adopt some weasels.... |
RE: Vole Control
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- Posted by danzeb 7a long island (My Page) on
Mon, Nov 24, 14 at 15:17
| The pine mice (voles) killed several of my berry bushes this year. I started setting mouse traps with peanut butter and oats and caught some but ants and other creatures often ate the bait before the voles got it. The voles also ate my goji berry plants so I tried bating a trap with goji berry leaves and that worked. Overall they breed two fast and are too slow in tripping the traps to get them under control that way. I'm going to start using poison bait also. Any recommendations on a brand for the pine voles? Most of the stores in my area carry mole bait and I don't t think that's the best choice for voles since their diet is different. |
RE: Vole Control
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| Four hungry outdoor cats works pretty well for me. Hardly a week goes by that that they don't leave me a present or two (dead vole) on the deck where I feed them. The key is to feed them enough to keep them healthy but not enough to make them lazy. If you fill their food bowl and they don't empty it promptly you are feeding them too much. |
RE: Vole Control
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| I'd love to get an outdoor cat or 2, the neighbor has free kittens but I don't have a barn. I'm afraid that if I keep them in the house (even the basement) over the winter they will become pets (DD loves animals, but is allergic to cats). We also have coyotes (and bobcats, etc.), so even waiting til next year (summer?) for another litter might not be a good idea, I wonder if the predators will pick off any small mammals that are wandering loose. I guess we have to move the woodpile my dad started (he's not running his woodstove now since he got a heat pump), it's less than 30 ft from my high tunnel. DH does keep the grass mowed. I won't cover the beds with burlap b/c they were nesting under a pile of bags we had (now removed) but didn't know they'd be attracted to cardboard. So what do you do, just weed in the spring (and keep weeding?)? Plastic? Landscape fabric? |
RE: Vole Control
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| My friend's home orchard was seriously damaged by pine voles (underground damages). She tried anything she could think of including castor oil, bait, smoke bomb, traps. Nothing really worked. Finally, she got a feral cat, not a friendly house cat. The guy was a real hunter. He got voles and squirrels, too. After a few weeks, my friend saw no vole damage. My friend kept the cat inside at night but a few months ago, he went out one night and never came back. We believe, a fox or a coyote got it. My friend will get another feral cat if voles return. Also agree that it should not be well-fed. |
RE: Vole Control
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| A problem I have with the feral cat idea is the animals kill indiscriminately and take a huge toll on songbirds amongst other things a fruit grower isn't necessarily gunning for. If you use poison bait and are persistant it is likely to work- try an anticoagulant that requires more than one feeding to kill. You are much less likely to kill your hawks or foxes that way should they eat a poisoned vole. Also if your dog or a child accidentally eats it they need only be fed vitamin K as an antidote. Close mowing in late summer is also very helpful. |
RE: Vole Control
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| I seem to have gained some ground with the warfarin based poision. Hopefully, Staying on top of the mowing and rotating poison around will get things under control. Looking at the dead critters I find in the war zone, I seem to be fighting Cotton Rats, mice and voles all using the vole tunnel system. The Cotton Rats will strip every piece of bark and cambium from fruit wood in my burn piles. |
RE: Vole Control
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| Some feral cats have adopted my place too. We have had a lot of mice, rabbits, and voles. They have killed a lot of my plants. I feed the cats hoping they will hang out here. They empty the food bowl quickly, so I guess they are hungry. We will see if they get the rodents. Now I need some extra large feral cats to thin out the deer population, too. |
RE: Vole Control
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I have tried everything except poison, the risk of birds or pets etc getting into poison is too great. What worked? Only plastic tree tubes. The last two years I haven't lost a tree. Prior to that I lost dozens. Mothballs and tinfoil are a deterrent but they will go through it without hesitation if hungry. |
RE: Vole Control
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| My sister is a vet with her own clinic and staff that includes three other vets, so a lot of animals go through her clinic. Her practice is in coastal N. CA where norway rats are plentiful and poisoning them is pretty common practice. Secondary poisoning with modern products is rare in her opinion and experience. If the bait takes multiple feedings to kill a vole, eating the vole shouldn't kill the predator. That said, I have found it as affective to trap with baited spring traps if other animals don't take the bait and spring the traps. It just requires much more work if you have to cover much ground. Traps need to be covered with a tray. There are also bait stations that are just large enough to hold a single spring trap. When you have pine voles, wraps don't protect the trees. |
RE: Vole Control
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- Posted by glib 5.5 (My Page) on
Sat, Nov 29, 14 at 11:04
| Songbirds are useful because it is them who control the grubs, including codling moth and curculio. Given that voles prefer to be nocturnal, and barn owls vastly prefer rodents, barn owl houses placed in the immediate surroundings are worth a shot. They require some care as far as placement (face east, out of reach of squirrels, out of earshot from your bedroom), and they need to be cleaned yearly (easy to do with a bottom that can be opened). |
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