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| I have a red haven peach tree that i brought and planted about 2 months ago. It still has all of its leaves. After our first frost the leaves looks krinkled but shortly after went back to normal. Now they are truning a yellow color. My neighbor behind me also has a peach tree that is i think 2 years old. (planted for 2 years, not sure of exact age). Anyway, all of the leaves fell off of her tree, and it has been looking bare for a few months. I dont think her tree is that healthy. She was pruning it on saturday. But i wanted to know why my tree still has all of its leaves but her tree is now bare? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Your tree is younger. They hold their leaves longer. No worries. |
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| Peach trees tend to hold leaves longer, in a commercial setting they have a treatment tio induce dormancy. Some chemical. We do not. So yeah ditto, no worries at all. I removed the rest of my leaves yesterday to apply a dormant spray. We have a lot of fungal problems around here so I try and get a fall treatment in. I used lime-sulfur in dormant oil. You can no longer buy lime-sulfur. I have one bottle left. I guess some teenagers in Japan were using it to kill themselves so it was pulled off the market. Anyway some of mine had no leaves, some had leaves. I would not prune right now myself. I would wait till late winter, say March. |
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| "Peach trees tend to hold leaves longer, in a commercial setting they have a treatment to induce dormancy." Hi Drew, Hey, I've not heard of this for peaches. Would you mind elaborating on this for me please? |
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| Olpea, I wish i could! I heard it on a podcast I think of the garden show Don Shor has out of Davis California. A caller asked the exact same question. It could have been another show too, and I have since deleted the shows. Also he didn't mention a product name or nothing. So you know what I know. It might have been Garden Sense, another show I listen to weekly. I don't remember? Even if I did, no real info given. I assume he knows what he is talking about. I do know that the idea is to defoliate to induce dormancy. How that is done??? Here is an article from Florida, little info there too |
Here is a link that might be useful: Peaches in Florida
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| Oh, OK. I see from your link the idea is to induce dormancy in low chill areas (where otherwise peaches may not go into dormancy due to such mild winters, or may not go into dormancy at the same time). From the link you provided, it looks like they use zinc sulfate to burn the leaves to force dormancy (I've used that myself to increase zinc content in soil.) Thanks for the info. I've not heard of it because our winters are much cooler. |
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| That makes sense. I removed the rest on my leaves yesterday. By hand. You could do that if they feel the trees needs to go dormant. I did it to spray a dormant spray, they were in the way! Make sure I get all of the branches completely covered. I'll use other products in early spring. |
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| The really low chill fruits are a different animal from high chill. I can force grapes to bloom 10 months early by pruning, ie next yrs bloom can be forced in mid summer rather than following spring. Low chill blueberries can be forced into partial bloom in fall by pruning. The FL low chill peaches can bloom early, in winter, if defoliated early. Basically these fruits almost don't need chilling just something to trigger a change in season. I doubt that tells one much about high chill fruits which tend to begin going dormant early in fall. Going fully dormant is a long process taking months. Pulling leaves off high chill peaches doesn't make them go dormant and may not affect much at all. |
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| Pulling leaves off high chill peaches doesn't make them go dormant and may not affect much at all. I did it for convenience not to go dormant, and in 7b as the poster is, might be low enough chill area to make a difference. Don't know what he is growing? |
This post was edited by Drew51 on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 18:03
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| Drew: One signal for onset of dormancy in high chill fruits is daylenght. For that effect the tree needs leaves. Dormancy begins earlier than is apparent. The tree needs to get ready for the rare early extreme freeze events that can occur. So trees in cold winter areas are much hardier much earlier than is apparent from outward appearance. I'd say in your area dormancy begins to develop by early September. By mid October the trees are quit hardy. I had peach trees in Amarillo survive zero on about Nov 3, 1993. Our normal low at that time about 35F. I still have peaches here with 80% leaves intact after several nights 18-21F. PS: Dormancy in my comments here would be defined as an increase in hardiness of wood and buds. |
This post was edited by fruitnut on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 18:26
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| Yeah I know you're right, but you couldn't tell looking at it. It was warm yesterday so I decided to paint the trunks again as the paint was getting thin from growth and weathering. I noticed on my Indian Free a canker at the graft union. Just starting. I thought maybe a borer, but no, looks like a canker. Not the best time of year, but no way was I going to leave it on. So I removed it as it was small. Although exposing wood and removing bark, wounding the tree, Crap! Anyway the wood looks dry already. The tree still may not make it. Going into third year, no fruit yet due to bad weather, and it might die. Man frustrating growing stone fruits! I looked at all my other trees and they look fine. I would not care are much and just replace it, but as you know I'm moving so If it dies I'm not replacing it till after the move in three years, argh! At least the work needed to the house to sell is getting done slowly but surely. Back on track. All I need is a big pile of cash to make it go quicker. I have to plant something! So i planted 6 currant plants in the yard yesterday, the price was right...free! |
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- Posted by tlbean2004 none (tlbean2004@yahoo.com) on Tue, Dec 2, 14 at 10:22
| Here is a pic i took this morning of the tree. |
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| Looks fine, well I would not want a central leader on a peach tree. I would have pruned it out when I planted it. |
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| A younger more vigorous tree will hold leaves longer than an older less vigorous tree. Your tree looks fine. The older leaves should turn yellow first. It hasn't been frozen as indicated by leaves and should be fine going into winter. It's already a lot hardier than it might look. Would likely take at least zero now without damage to wood or buds. Leaves don't matter at this point. |
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- Posted by tlbean2004 none (tlbean2004@yahoo.com) on Tue, Dec 2, 14 at 11:57
| what are some of the disadvantages to having a central leader? If i do cut it out, when should i do it? |
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