Good for you. Getting the MOST fireblight resistant varieties that produce very good fruit is the goal, whether Asian or European. What a real nice place. Another consideration would be rodents that climb fruit-laden pear trees and help themselves. If it was a concern there, I would prune away all side branches up to about 3-1/2 feet high from ground level so that when your trees have growing fruit that you can wrap a slit section of galvanized duct around the lower trunk and let it stand on the ground. As long as the rodents have no other "ladder" to climb above the duct to reach the branches, the fruit won't disappear due to hungry climbing rodents. So the T posts would need to go also. Larger diameter duct would allow steep-angled forks to remain as you bend the duct into an oval shape.

My understanding is that Asian grafts readily to European but not the other way around.

FRom what I heard there are some, but not many rejection problems with pear.

Also, are you pruning to an open center? If not would you not wanna shape the tree up with some pruning?

Thanks for the info. Will shape tree when grafting. Some pears grow upright some spreading. I don't know how this is going work out. Thought it would be fun to play. Thanks again. By the way it was brought up abought the T post in the pict. I live in a location where we have lots of hurricans. I have T posts by all my fruit trees to tye support roaps in bad weather. Just another problem caused by living in the deep south.

Keiffer is a hybrid asian/euro so it could well accept both nicely. Asians tend to get fireblight badly, you might want to try Pineapple, Tennosui and other southern hybrids.

Scott

Since hurricanes may visit in August or thereabouts, pear trees may already be dropping their leaves and thus won't catch so much wind as it blows across that flat land unimpeded. I would scissor off any thick leaf formations a couple days before the hurricane arrived. My dad did not do that on his mature, super productive fig tree years ago leading up to a hurricane, and the ground was already sloppy wet/muddy. The wind pushed the tree with roots slipping over about 1/3 or the way. He cut it down and started all over with a new one. A single pipe driven deep beside the trunk when the tree is still small could be a stabilizer after being temporarily roped to the trunk.