Fruittreefarm.com and Vaughn Nursery both carry it. Very good prices on the trees, just check the shipping/handling charges.

This post was edited by RobThomas on Wed, Dec 24, 14 at 15:25

The two nurseries I know of which would have Winblo are (assuming it is still in stock):

Vaughn Nursery

FruitTreeFarm

I've ordered from both in the past and while the trees are small, they are a good value. If you only get one or two, shipping could cost more than the trees.

Edit: What Rob said...Sorry about the dupe. I got distracted midway through my response and didn't check for other responses before finishing the post.

This post was edited by bob_z6 on Wed, Dec 24, 14 at 15:38

PlantMeGreen also has it.
I just received an order from them today, by the way (two pecans), that I was very pleased with, from the customer service (including free advice on grafting pecans) to the very low price of the trees, to the trees themselves.
-Eric

I'm just an hour north of Charlotte, by the way.

A couple curiosities: have you grafted peaches before? I've grafted several things successfully, but my limited attempts with peaches haven't given me any success yet. Also, why are you particularly interested in Winblo? I wonder if I might want one for the same reason you do.

I also like PlantMeGreen, they sent me a nice potted pecan last year.

Winblo is a good all-around peach, its large, disease-resistant, and has great flavor.

Peaches are more temperature dependent for grafting. Its because callousing only happens in a relatively narrow temperature range. Once I learned to watch the weather and grafted in highs 75-85 and lows 60ish I found I was having much better luck.

Scott

Scott,

What kind of grafting techniques do you use? I was not successful with T-budding last Aug/Sept even though the temp was right. So, I could only blame my inexperience!!!

I am thinking about cleft grafting or anything that is not T-bud or chip-budding this spring (late spring). Temp may be in 60's at best. What's my chance?

I also don't have much luck with budding peaches, but most nurseries propagate that way so it can't be that hard.

I would recommend cleft or bark grafting in the spring when the temps get up to 70's-80's highs. Wait until it is that warm, it will eventually get there. I am looking at the weather reports for a several day stretch of such weather when I can graft.

Scott

Thanks, Scott. Will do.

I got my Winblo from Vaughn. Small trees but very reasonable price.

One needs to order at least 5 or more trees to make it worth the shipping cost. I ordered 4, the shipping cost was about the same as the trees.

Thank you all for your reply. I do apologize I haven't been on since posting due to the Christmas holiday and getting things ready for family. That being said "Merry Christmas" to all of you.

@ RobThomas & bob_z6 - Thank you for the heads up on the two websites. They are now Favorited :D

@ cousinfloyd I have not grafted any fruit trees to-date. Most of my garden experience has been flowers, and veggies. I just recently started learning about Permaculture and the benefits of letting the garden take care of its self with basic maintenance. However having said that I do have a few books with illustrated instructions :D on cleft and budd grafting that i am looking forward to trying out.

@ mamung Yes I agree they are rather small however the expense is not that bad considering most trees are $20+ and Ill be getting the tree I want rather than having to settle. so ill be happy just having the genetics :D

Spicy,

Since you are new to fruit growing, many questions you will have may have already been answered in this forum. Just search old posts and read up.

I suggest putting your zone and state on your profile. It'll help other forum contributors give you better answers knowing your location and climate.

Happy New Year!

You can bark graft peaches at the first signs of bud swell. It doesn't have to be 70-80 degrees for that to happen.

Ray did you ever try it when the temps were in the 50's? I had a lot of failures including bark grafts before I focused on the temperature. I don't think the type of graft matters much, I do all kinds of grafts depending on the scion/stock situation and the failures more correlate with the date I did them on, not with the type of graft. This also lines up with the scientific evidence where peach callous rates are much faster in that 60-70F region.

Scott

I've also found peach grafts are very sensitive to temperature. I've had mass failures when it's been extremely hot, or too cool.

From what I've read and observed, peaches don't seem to callus until it gets fairly warm. I've observed this in both grafts and pruning cuts.

Scott, there's a big difference in 60-70 than70-80. The main thing is the temperature has to be consistent. Also some break dormancy before others do. For my area, I do most of my grafts in mid to late march.