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| I just found out this morning that my Gala apple tree that I planted last year, broke at the graft union. What should I do? Is it possible to re-erect the tree and put stake right next to it? The tree is about 8 feet tall already so I probably need to prune first? I suspect this was caused by early snow -4 days ago- plus the wind plus the tree still have leaves. I have 7 other apple trees that I planted at the same time, are fine eventhough they also still have leaves. My other fruit trees (pear, cherry, peach dropped their leaves already). Is it normal for apple tree to drop the leaves late like this? |
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| I'd be surprised if pushing it back up and staking it works. Personally, I'd cut a bunch of scion wood from the top, and graft in the spring/late winter. You'll be set back a bit, but you've got a good rootbase, and it should grow quickly. |
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| This is the worst you can have, green leaves with tons of snow. Even if the tree can be saved by pushing back, it is a very weak tree. |
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| I'm sorry to say that I think this tree is toast. Do you know what rootstock the Gala was on? Perhaps there is a partial incompatibility with Gala. The tree looks awfully big for being planted last year. Perhaps it is on a seedling rootstock? If it were mine, I'd probably let a sucker grow this spring and then graft a different variety (not Gala) to it. Then buy another Gala tree, or later topwork part of the tree with Gala. |
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- Posted by harvestman 6 (My Page) on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 19:35
| On the bright side, it's a Gala. Sorry, I know that was mean, but to me Gala is really the queen of bland even if it likes to fruit. I think it is rare for a tree to break at the graft union unless there is some lack of compatibility. By now it should be as strong there as anywhere along the trunk. Trees tip over from snow maybe snapping some roots in the process but shouldn't snap above the ground. It isn't G30 is it? I had a compatibility problem with that rootstock with a Kidd's Orange Red (I think) a few years back. When a tree snaps clean I consider it over, beyond hoping for vigorous sprouts coming from the rootstock to graft to. |
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| It is a 8' tree and planted last year, so it is a container tree, probably sold by the big store. It will be hard to know the rootstock.... |
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- Posted by harvestman 6 (My Page) on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 20:53
| Probably M7 then. |
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| By the end of the 2nd year in the ground, 8' isn't at all unusual for a bare-root mail-order tree. Back when I used to keep better records of tree sizes, my first half dozen dwarf apples grew to 6.5-11' at the end of year 2. Two were over 10'. I imagine they would be even bigger on something like MM111 or seedling. I did a check and it looks like there are issues with the G30 rootstock and Gala (from the NC130 program). It also mentions some issues with M26, but says G30 is much worse. |
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| I just do not understand why the trees are not even dormant in zone 6. Even nurseries in Zone 7 have already started shipping from November. My order arrived around Nov. 10.... |
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| I'll have to wait and see how my apple trees grow. They are whips now. I'll top them and train them. I do not think they will reach 8' by the end of next year. They are on M-106 rootstock. If the dwarf trees can reach 10' by the 2nd year, how tall can they grow? To 10'???? Or to 20' :-) That is not dwarf.... I think some folks space the dwarf apples like 7-8' apart? |
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| The two which were over 10' were on G11 and G16. That is part of why I prefer B9, as none of them were over ~8'. Maybe mine grew a bit quicker than others, as I was pretty attentive to them in the early years, including drip irrigation, which I haven't continued. Now I just add wood-chips and stake them. Once they get too big, cut them back. The other option, which I did with my tallest trees, was to just bend the leader over when it got too tall. Otherwise, some of mine would probably be close to the 20' you mentioned :) |
This post was edited by bob_z6 on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 21:28
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- Posted by konrad___far_north 3..just outside of E (My Page) on Tue, Dec 2, 14 at 1:18
| Agree, she's toast! Can only add that it's always good to stake them a couple years. |
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- Posted by harvestman 6 (My Page) on Tue, Dec 2, 14 at 7:00
| Bob, thanks for that, but, of course, no big box is likely to carry trees on G 30 or anything else from the Cornell program. They are hard rootstocks to come by outside of Cummins nursery. |
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| Harvestman, RedSun is only guessing that it is from a big box based on the size. The original poster, Eviy, hasn't given us the source. |
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- Posted by spartan-apple (My Page) on Tue, Dec 2, 14 at 11:16
| Greetings: Years ago I had issues with McIntosh on M26 as every so often a tree would break at the graft union. Usually not at such a young age but when loaded with fruit so later in summer. Just passing this info along in case anyone grows |
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- Posted by harvestman 6 (My Page) on Tue, Dec 2, 14 at 11:50
| Bob, I lost track of who said what. |
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