Scott:

If they were mine I'd leave them where they are and prune to maintain a manageable size. It sounds like they have plenty of room to do just that.

Most of the people here would plant another tree in between what you have now. Really, I'm not pulling your leg, my trees are that close.

Yeah some here have 5 foot spacing. I myself like a little more room and used 8 foot spacing. So yes, I would put more between them. Of course none of them will ever be taller than 8 feet. i don't want to use ladders to harvest, so I will prune them down to the size I want.

Thank you for the advice. It definitely saves me a lot of work :) I just wish we all had a little more land for this hobby!

Check out the pruning techniques in these videos. Look at the Backyard orchard culture stuff, or pruning videos. Most do not concern your trees, but may give you an idea about size pruning.

Here is a link that might be useful: DWN videos

I agree with the other guys. Leave them where they are.
Having more sun is more important than spacing. You can always prune them, if it becomes necessary.

Of course that advice may not apply everywhere- at least to other species, like apples, plums and peaches. Here in the northeast I find close spacing causes a lot of problem in the long run and more traditional spacing with multi-grafted trees seems better suited when working with a lot of vigor. I started with close spacing and after about 10 years realized my mistake. DWN methods were not developed in the humid region.

Pears are relatively columnar anyway and figs will fruit no matter how much you prune them to keep them in their space, I believe, although I no longer manage figs that are permanently in the ground. Working from years ago CA memories on that one.

We are talking 12 foot spacing here, that's not exactly a DWN technique. And Scott has had trees for over 12 years closely spaced (5 feet) with little problems, and is probably more humid than NY. At least as much so. And as you mention not a problem with the current cultivars.
All gardening is local. I just saw a thread that so confirmed that in the DWN forums. Amended soil for trees. Without it in this specific location absolutely no growth. With amendments and amazing amount of growth. usually amending soil, and amending clay soil is a huge mistake. But not in this case

I think the BYOC has wonderful suggestions. And agree you need to adapt to your conditions. But things like controlling height by pruning are universal. Such a great idea, works very well too. Many of the DWN suggestions are top shelf. I myself use 8 foot spacing. That works better for me. I don't like the close spacing myself. With peach trees that really have a short life anyway, I think it works well. So far the techniques have resulted in spectacular results for me in the Midwest. I'm not as humid, but it is humid enough. The trees just look so beautiful kept small.
When you have a 50 foot yard, it makes so much sense.
It keeps the landscape in proportion, adds great beauty to your yard.
I think many of the techniques would not work here, but some certainly will. I want to try a 2 in one hole. I think 4 is too many. But two at 5 feet spacing I think would look great.
I think an east-west orientation would work well. Treat each tree as a half tree and prune accordingly much like the centuries old proven technique called espalier. It is way different being a 2 dimensional pruning technique, but is the same in the sense of controlling growth via pruning. Proven to work well. DWN now advocates espalier techniques too. To me BYOC is just 3 dimensional espalier.

Here is a link that might be useful: Nut trees in pure clay soil

There are so many factors in determining the spacing. For home home fruit trees, you want the branches to go wide and low. So you do not have to climb ladder to pick fruits. So even upright growing trees, like pears, are sometimes trained to grow wide. Fruit trees need space to get full sun and air circulation.

If you get the room, always space the trees to their mature sizes. This can reduce the maintenance dramatically in later years (7 years later).

If you do not get the room and get more energy, you can space whatever room you feel comfortable. Then you may need to summer prune once or twice. This, along with the limited air circulation, open the trees to virus and disease pressure.

Then there is another maintenance issue. Some of my trees grow on a shallow hill. I run lawn tractor to mow the grass. So I can't space the trees too tight. Or this is going to be a big headache to mow the trees.

I remember another member here said the same thing about his apple orchard. He planted many apple trees and realized this problem when he ran his tractor in his orchard.

Some good points Redsun. Here in Michigan the commercial growers are moving towards pedestrian orchards. less liability as no ladders are needed. Also the smaller trees work with the new cherry picking machines. Picking time decreases as it takes time to climb up and down ladders. And MSU has noted increased yields with certain pruning techniques. For example I myself do not use BYOC pruning for my cherry trees. I use KGB method developed by Oregon State and Michigan State Universities. Trees are small and yields are larger than traditional orchards.
I modified the pruning to keep trees smaller than they do. Still they keep trees rather small.
I have a White Gold Cherry I put in last year, and so far so good. It's still young next year will be 2nd leaf.
My other cherry trees are too big to try this.

Here is a link that might be useful: KGB pruning

This post was edited by Drew51 on Sat, Dec 13, 14 at 14:31

The new thing is "high density planting". I think this is particularly good for commercial planting. The pros:

1. high yield with the same space;
2. can have varieties with limited space;
3. easy to harvest; no ladder;
4. early to harvest; no waiting for 5 years.

Cons:
1. high maintenance;
2. requires spraying.

The spacing info from nursery is very on the conservative side. Actual sizes can quickly outgrow the charts. For apple, dwarf is spaced at 8', semi-dwarf 12-15' and standard at 35'. But I figure dwarf can grow to 10' probably in year 3-4.

I think timing is another factor. We probably do not want to wait for 5 years to get a basket of apples. And we do not care about an apple tree that can live for 30 years. We want fruits now. We probably move in 5 years. Also, we'll probably cut down the dwarf apple tree at 7th year since there are better varieties, etc....

Well I disagree with the cons you mention with sweet cherries. maintenance is actually less like say with the KGB system. Pruning is simpler, not complex, or more pruning is not needed. This is with cherry trees only. Believe me pruning on ladders is a lot harder! So maintenance time decreases.
I don't understand the 2nd con, if you have to spray, you have to spray. Not sure how size factors in on that?
Also it has been shown you get better penetration of sprays with smaller trees.

This post was edited by Drew51 on Sat, Dec 13, 14 at 16:01

Compact aize -> Control size -> frequent pruning -> more virus and disease pressure -> MORE spraying.

High density planting is just like grape pruning. After the plants are near mature, you cut down old wood, then renew with new wood. You do this each year. Then you keep the plants about the same size. So we must prune down the trees each year.

With more spacing, there are many more ways you can train and prune the trees. You do not need a ladder if let the trees grow wide.

OK, well on cherries you prune only once a year, so maintaince does not increase, is lowered as you don't use ladders as you have to with traditional cherry growing. There too, you must prune yearly. You may be right with apples and other fruit. i don't grow apples, I have no idea?
Size pruning is minimal as you're using dwarf rootstocks with cherries. Done with other pruning if needed, once a year.

Another way it reduces costs is harvest. Studies by Oregon State University showed that pickers in traditional cherry orcahrds could pick 100 pounds per hour. In high density they could pick 171 pounds. That is a huge difference in labor costs.

This post was edited by Drew51 on Sat, Dec 13, 14 at 17:01

You guys are getting way off track. The man has a fig and 2 pears, and his spacing is perfectly fine. He won't be spraying the fig and I seriously doubt he'll ever have to spray the pears. All he has to do is keep them pruned,
which is no big deal. Furthermore, the pears will need
to be pruned anyway, no matter how far he spaces them.

"Furthermore, the pears will need
to be pruned anyway, no matter how far he spaces them."

There are clearly different levels of pruning, spaced 5' or spaced 20'.....

You don't give up, do you. Pruning is pruning, who cares what the level is. But I'm sure you'll come back with some retort.