|
| Last week I asked about replacing my alpine currant bushes with better currants. I think I will plant some blackcurrants, redcurrants and/or spice currants somewhere in my yard this spring. But people suggested fruit trees, and I think I would like to plant some apricot trees next to the garage. I chose apricot mainly because Colorado State extension says "Even if apricots don't produce fruit, they're useful in landscapes for aesthetic purposes. The glossy foliage is unequaled in plants of similar size and shape, and in the fall they add color to the landscape. They also have interesting bark." This is Colorado near Denver. I would have to plant in my 8 foot wide strip to the south of the garage. This spot gets a lot of wind, but winds are mainly in the winter and relatively warm. We don't get as much hail in my town as other places around here. There are often late spring frosts of course and I know many years there wouldn't be a fruit crop. These would be my only fruit trees and I would be able to baby them, water, prune as much as needed, maybe try to protect them against spring freezes. My wishes: Questions: Any other comments appreciated. Thank you. |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
- Posted by Itheweatherman USDA 8b, Elevation 2 (My Page) on Mon, Dec 16, 13 at 0:57
| Try a puget gold apricot, I've read that Puget gold apricot tolerates frost. Here is description from Dave Wilson Nursery, "Proven producer of large, flavorful fruit in Western Washington. Recommended for other western climates where spring rains and frosts limit apricot culture." |
|
| I have a Puget Gold as part of a 5 way grafted tree.It's nice to look at with Spring flowers and Summer fruit but there is no Fall color really.The fruit is tasty. The location looks fine.The lowest zone though for PG Apricots is zone 5,so yours is at the limit.If there is an exceptionally cold Winter,they could suffer. I did see this one from Russia at Raintee's website, theTlor-Tsiran Apricot.It is rated for zones 4-9.Others in that range that they offer are Tomcot and Chinese Montgamet Sweet Pit. I'm sure there are lots of other fruit trees that can fill your needs and wants,some searching will probably find them. With plenty of pruning,standard or dwarf shouldn't matter. Brady |
Here is a link that might be useful: Tlor-Tsiran Apricot at Raintree Nursery
|
| This a followup about the Tlor-Tsiran Apricot.People were having trouble getting it to set fruit,although the flavor was good. Brady |
|
| I had some good years with a Mormon here, but the tree finally failed to thrive and then died. I did a lot of things wrong with it (I've had several 'cots and a prune die on me.) Mormon is a tasty, good-sized fruit. I think the tree is very attractive. I like semi dwarf as easier to keep to size and earlier to bear. |
|
| Apricot fruits are wonderful, but being at the limit of the range is courting trouble. You will lose a lot of crops to late frosts, because apricots bloom too early. Yes, the garage thermal mass and reflected heat will buy a fraction of a zone, but there are other, hardier attractive trees that you ought to consider (if you want fruits). Shipova takes forever to fruit, but is otherwise trouble free, and pears shoot up and are a bit more trouble to keep in bound. Peaches and dwarf cherries can be considered (cherries too will need pruning), and will be helped by the dry climate. All things considered I would use the spot for pears, or perhaps a multi-grafted pear (for pollination) and a peach. |
|
| What kind of fruit do you like to eat? If apricots, plant apricots. One benefit is that fresh tree-grown apricots can be better than anything you find at the store. And if you're going to plant apricots at all, that's the best place to do it. In that spot, I'd definitely go for dwarf trees. I've never had success keeping standards or "semi" dwarf trees cut down to size. And seeing your satellite dish up there, I think you want to keep it clear. I'd also go for two different varieties for cross pollination. True, apricots are self-fertile, but they bear better with some cross. Also, if one fails, the other may fruit. People here have mentioned good cold-hardy varieties. You might also consider the Har- series. I have Harglow in N IL, and it fruits more often than not. The key isn't so much sub-zero hardiness as latest possible bloom. |
|
| You might consider a Montrose and Tomcot apricot from Bay Laurel Nursery. Montrose is frost resistant and selected in Montrose CO. Tomcot is the most widely adaptable apricot available. It does well from the Northeast to WA state and CA. You don't need a dwarf but will need regular pruning to stay below TV dish. |
|
| I know a lot of people around here grow Chinese/mormon apricots and they can get to a fairly good size about 20 ft high by 20 ft wide if you let them go. They are pretty good tasting and have the added benefit of being able to eat the pit. The pit isn't that great but it isn't any smaller or worse then some of the hybrid peach/almonds I have eaten sold as a cold hardy almond. The big problem with apricots is about every 3rd to 4th year a late frost will wipe out most of the blossoms. The good thing about them is that the fruit comes on early compared to other fruits and is one of the first fruits of the season. If it were me I would go ahead and plant a multi grafted dwarf apricot for early fruit and some other type of dwarf multi grafted tree. Options like apple, plum, peach nectorine or pear would give you late fruit. Also apples and pears bloom later and are less likely to be burned by a late frost. |
|
| Thanks for all the great comments and please keep them coming. I will look up all the varieties that have been mentioned. The consensus seems to be that it's worth a try to plant some kind of fruit tree(s) here. My two main worries had been: In general my west facing front yard seems to be a little colder than some of my very close neighbors and my lilacs and purple sand cherry don't bloom until a couple weeks after my neighbors'. But probably the spot to the south of the garage is warmer. The weather is warm this week and I will try to submit a soil test. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Fruit & Orchards Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here



