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Can I save this Weeping Fig?

RaptorRed
9 years ago

I inherited a bunch of houseplants, some of which look pretty sad. This ficus benjamina (I think that's what it is) is one of these. I found it in a windowless dark corner of the house with a handful of leaves and cobwebs all over it. It has been behind the kitchen sink on the counter next to a north facing window for about 2 months. I did some light pruning of the dead branches but the thing looks long and kinda funny. It has lots of new growth at the ends of these long branches but no new buds on the lower portion of the stems. Is there a way to fix this tree or is it doomed to be a sad looking ficus? Also, I have room near the East window or the South-West corner windows. Should I move it?
Thanks and appreciate any feedback in advance.
Autumn

Comments (10)

  • RaptorRed
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Another view. Sorry the pics are sideways, I don't know why that is..

  • RaptorRed
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Last view of the base. I cut the middle stem about 3 days ago. I don't know if it was the right thing to do, but it looks dead..?

  • alisonoz_gw
    9 years ago

    Hi Autumn,
    Don't worry about the pics being sizeways, its a GW thing. When your readers (like me) click on the photo, we get to see it right-way up in a new window.
    Congrats on trying to save the plant. Believe me figs are hardy.
    Personally I would go a little harder in pruning, to encourage some new growth lower down, but I would not do it all at once.
    Say, in your 2nd pic, the branch on the left where the string is, then about 4 inches up you see a notch? Well I would prune that right off just above that notch. Then just leave it and slowly it will get new shoots. When one side starts to respond, you can decide later if you want to do the other. That gives the plant half its existing leaves and its root system to live on while it regenerates.
    I'm not sure of directions as I'm on the other side of the big pond and we upside down (LOL) but bright light, no overwatering, and start a little fertilizing but less is more at the start.

  • greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
    9 years ago

    The pictures don't re-orient when clicked, not for me at least. The pictures are sideways because they were taken sideways with a phone.

    Josh

  • RaptorRed
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    alisonoz, Thank you so much for your input. I think I will try pruning it where you suggest. I will also move it to a sunnier location in the house. Bah! Im excited. I think I may try to take cuttings from the branch I will snip off. There seem to be a lot of promise for cuttings on that section.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    To prune the food factories (leaves) off a plant already circling the drain might very well be a death sentence, even for species genetically blessed with great vigor. Forget making it look pretty or 'forcing' it to backbud until you restore its vitality. BTW - winter is the very worst time to undertake any significant work on your tree.

    I'd flush the soil thoroughly the next time your plant needs water and fertilize with an appropriate soluble fertilizer. I'd keep the plant warm and in very bright light until night temps are reliably above 55*, then I'd move it outdoors. Around Father's Day, it should have recovered enough that you can repot w/o concern, so I'd repot into an appropriate soil. When the plant starts pushing new growth, THEN prune it. It will backbud MUCH more enthusiastically if you work WITH the plant's natural rhythms instead of against them.

    Al

  • RaptorRed
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Al, good point. I wasn't quite sure when the correct time for pruning work would be for an indoor plant. Im not in a hurry so I can take your advice on waiting. Do you think it would be ok to take a cutting or two of it now or should I wait?
    Autumn

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    Cuttings rely on stored food (carbohydrates), which is metabolized to provide the energy needed to create roots and their connection to the plant's vasculature, all of which must occur before the fungaluglies plug up the plumbing and end the viability of the cutting. Because your plant is in such a weak state, we can be sore its energy reserves are low and it will be slow to root if it roots at all. Slower rooting means greater possibility of a disease spoiling the fun. That said, there is nothing to keep you from trying, aside from the fact that the more foliage you cut off the parent plant the more restricted is its ability to make food.

    If it was my plant, I wouldn't bother trying cuttings, but I'm not you. I've rooted so many Ficus of different species that it's not a milestone when they root, and I'm used to waiting for optimal conditions before sticking cuttings of any of the plants I want to clone. If you wouldn't be bothered if the cuttings don't strike - go for it, unless you decide the leaves you'll take off in cuttings would better serve the plant if left attached.

    What you decide probably doesn't matter to anyone but you. I just try to help you with considerations that allow you to make the best decisions, based on your POV.

    Good luck.

    Al

  • RaptorRed
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks Al, I appreciate your input. Very new to plants, I really just started taking interest in the past few months so I have no idea what I'm doing. Right now I'm soaking up info and others' experiences like crazy.
    Cheers.
    Autumn

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    That approach will serve you well. Learn all you can and use your practical applications to validate what you've learned; that way, you won't get stuck in a rut repeating the same mistakes over and over. It's a much faster way to learn than trying things in desperation in order that you might avoid the punishment that comes with mistakes.

    Like most endeavors, what you get back from your efforts is linked with what effort you put into it, but there is no reason you can't choose the areas most likely to help as the best place to concentrate your efforts. The 2 things that will help you most are, gaining a basic understanding of how plants work (physiology), and understanding the importance of soil choice and water management to root health, because a healthy plant isn't possible w/o a healthy root system, and that's where a VERY high % of issues originate.

    Good luck!! I hope you fare well!

    Al