Hopefully someone can disagree with me.

Majesty Palm is a plant that has to have particular conditions. The placement in the corner is fine IF it receives the right amount of light.
This plant does not like direct light; it prefers more a backed-off kind of light. If the plant has no other choice but to accept what light comes through yon window, then try to put something between the plant and the light.
A curtain, a shade, a blind, or something outside that would offer a barrier to too much sun coming through the window. Even in winter, window glass can increase the intensity of light through it and if a plant is put too close to the glass, it can affect it. Also, avoid always placement where a heat vent or course of air from doors being opened and closed often can hit the plant.

The brown leaves suggests OVER watering. The M.P. does like it more of higher humidity...but this is winter, it isn't growing, the sun is still a month away from light it can use. Water to drainage ALWAYS, allow full drainage but don't let the plant sit in such drainage for more than 10 minutes. Dump the excess.
When you water, allow it to sit overnight to gain room temperature. Let the plant dry down between waterings but never allow it to dry out.
In place of watering so often, MIST the plant regularly.
Misting tho does not replace proper watering practices.
When it matters put a humidity tray near it. Fertilize only when it is growing. Fertilizer at this time will not be used by the plant and salts from it may build up and cause such browning.

Misting also can help prevent spider mites which does seem to like this plant.

Usually leaves that turn brown too much may drop off. In cases where the leaf is just turning brown at the edges or tips, simply take a pair of scissors and cut off the brown and leave the green as is.

Jeannie7: Thanks again for all the info on this plant. Unless I repot, I can't water to drainage though, because it's in a large pot that has no drainage holes. Instead, I had put plastic pop bottles or something like that at the bottom of the pot, to allow for some drainage.

Billy Rae

Anyone know how fast these plants grow? Like, 6 feet in a year? How can the grower make money on these? I'm way up north, they'd be shipped in pretty far, I assume. I'm just curious.

I'm not surprised about the kentias for $130: they're actually very expensive wholesale, too.

The first and easiest is to spritz the plant. A spray bottle that has a fine spray nozzle can defeat dryness where watering is not called for.
Most plants are helped by misting. It can often defeat spider mites and other pests that hang on to undersides of leaves and suck the juices from.

We have all learned about moisture trays...the plant sits on pebbles in a tray that has water just at the near top of the pebbles--the plant doesn't make contact.
It needn't be a tray, a saucer, a cereal bowl, a dog's bowl, can be placed alongside. A container of water can be so placed at the heat vent where the air passes over the water and increases generally the air in the room.
A humidifier can be placed on the cold return of the furnace.
A small mistifier (electric) can be placed in the room.

OK, increase the moisture level as best we can.

But you are not helping the plant by encasing it in plastic.
If the plant is receiving any kind of direct light, the plastic can heat up to drastic heights.
This method is good for defeating bugs that have invaded the plant while outside and such encasing is used to confine the bugs while you spray insecticide into the envelope.
Putting plants into a plastic bubble is not recommended.

If you feel this plant is not for you, then perhaps you could make a present of it to a neighbor, a friend or relative who wont blame you for handing off a troublemaker.

You re-potted. I must ask, why did you not think of putting drainage holes in the pot before putting the plant in.
OK, no drainage hole. Many people have pots that do not drain. But, they know their plants. They are aware of what water is used by the plant and keep a check on the moisture level. Watering in dribs and drabs is not a recommended way of treating a plant.
Usually, we water excessively, wanting to ensure the roots get sufficient water and it ends up the plant is overwatered.
The water sits under the roots...eventually the roots cannot take up any more. Yet the water sits there and is drawn up into the soil which, over time, causes root rot.
The first sign of such problem is told by the leaves.
The leaves feed the plant oxygen and water. Where they are fed too much, just like you if you were force fed continuously, they die.
First tho they turn brown or yellow and eventually drop off.

To say your trouble is all in not having drainage holes is underscoring the problem.

Repotted. Hopefully you did not increase the pot's size more than one size up...usually a 6" pot, go to 8"...
a 10", go to 12". Anything more than the one size up can spell trouble. The roots are given more soil than they can properly take nourishment from...especially when it is soggy from too much water.

I'd say the plant can be helped immensely by simply removing it from its present pot, put drainage holes in, and re-pot it.
Drainage holes can be put into most materials very easily...even ceramic, or metal.

If the idea of placing a saucer under such drainage holes is not your cup-a-tea for the room you have the plant in, then think "sleeve". A decorative pot, larger than the pot your plant is in, is used to hold the plant pot.
Raise it sufficient to receive the water that drains from the pot and yet, not so that it sits in such drainage water.

Make sure there is some form of clearance between the soil and the drainage holes. Otherwise, soggy soil will collect around the drainage holes and block it/them.
One of the best ways to raise the plant soil from such holes, is with the use of wine corks. Any wine residue will not harm any plant. The acidness in fact, can help it.
Another well-used method is with the use of clay shards.

The key to good watering is to not let the plant sit in such drainge water much more than 10 mminutes before it is dumped.

If you are determined to let the plant survive as best it can, then at least, give it a chance and look to your watering.

[Rodney Dangerfield] I have a small mystifier, but not an electric one. I call her my wife. *rimshot*

Thank you, thank you. I'll be here through Tuesday. Try the veal.[/Rodney Dangerfield]

-

Sorry. With a set-up like that, I can resist maybe five, six seconds tops.

Misting is one of the most common methods to give a plant moisture and can often delay giving water when its not time to do so.
But, that's my opinion and I suggest you look into it further.

But,

I if I feel I can benefit someone from experience, I will, or I'd be chicken, afraid of being attacked.

Trac,

Do you see how much worrying you have to do with the use of soils that contain small particles that cause "PWT" in your pots here! Not to copy Al's words, nor am I a clone, but someone who tried someone elses "proven product, or advice, and saw a miracle happen for my plant hobby!
The same people that are encouraging "PEAT MOSS" or bagged soils, and somehow think we are "peatmoss haters", are the same ones telling how careful you have to be with root rot and watering problems, even size pots you use.

I have potted some of my 2 inch potted plants into 10 inch ones with no issues using , yes, Al's gritty mix. I intend on not transplanting every year with a long lasting soiless mix. If you're using the right particle size, as outlined in the container thread, you NEVER have to worry about drainage rpoblems, overwatering, and root rot, that is of course if you have drainage holes as we all know here. Even those that know nothing about plants, know water has to drain.

I am not piggy backing Al's idea,nor a clone, or that of many other members who use it or rave about it, it is the TRUTH through sucess and experience. NOthing scientific in my instance, but who cares..It works for me!!

If you want to constanly worry about pot size, overwatering, root rot, and plant nutrition problems, along with in soil insects, leaf pests, and yes even mold on your plants, then use the soil suggested by the ones who say they have sucess with peatmoss based soils, and spray your plants all you want. I will stillrespect your choice. We should all.

Maybe the same ones who encourage this type of soil,or who knock Al, can show you how to avoid suffocated roots in your zone climate, and show you how to avoid plant disease from misting or anywhere for that matter. Someone here lives in near the north pole, and seems to never have a problem.:-)
Trac,

If I can pot a small 6 inch high plant highly susceptable to root rot such as "Brouvardias", even in "logees greenhouse, and see them thrive in a 10 inch pot with as much watering as I want, then so can you. I choose to be worry free about my plants feet!

It is up to you on how much of a challange you want to make for yourself growing plants in a container. We all have free will. You will find what works for you.:-)

I wish some here would back off, and stop insulting others, and judgeing the very ones who care enough to see others doe well based on years of exsperience, or just a few, but we ALL should make this a place of refreshment.
If not , then disappear please, or you'll find yourself alone, that is the ones who want to belittle others!

Sorry, maybe now I will back off these forums for a while, like some others are doing, and chicken out, for fear I may be rudely addressed also, such as I already have been on this forum and in my e-mail...:-(

This use to be a fun place to visit.!!:-(