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Tillandsia Care

Posted by hopefulauthor z5IL (hopefulauthor@sbcglobal.net) on
Sat, Feb 2, 13 at 15:34

Howdy...How is everyone?

Anyway, I bought two Till but having problems finding care instructions.

One is a tree. The second is an unrooted cutting.
I emailed the seller but he/she never wrote back.

Here are the pictures. Anyone have ideas how to root a Till and care for both? Thanks, Toni

Tillandsia

Tillandsia

Tillandsia

Last photo shows Till bottom w/o roots.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Tillandsia Care

Nice looking air plants. They don't root in the same sense as most plants the bare string bases that look like roots are what the plant produces to use as a way to hold it's self into or onto something like tree bark or cliff sides in the narrow cracks.

Air plants are very close and the same care as most tropical plants in the Bromiliad family. Like Broms they pup. The bigger Air plant AKA tree is still a tilly.

During and after it flowers it should set out some pup and as it pups the pups will push, pinch, and split the plant apart into several newer plants, unlike most broms tillys also leave the bigger but split apart smaller mother tilly behind. Seems like a crude mother nature joke but this is how they reproduce

The one on the wet napkin is a big no no for to long (IMO while there and took the pic is to long) All you need to do for watering is replicate a light rain storm now and then.
What I would do asap is mount them even the tilly tree would do A WHOLE LOT better out of any container.

Use that spag in the tank of a container and wire the spag and mount it onto chicken wire or something work the tilly tree " roots " into the spag and put the smaller one (on napkin) on top outer side of the same mount easily work a thin wire into the lower bigger leaf for stability it until it gets "roots".


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RE: Tillandsia Care

MrLike, thank you. After I posted, I found a few Tillandsia sites.

Growing large Bromiliads, eg:, B. Aechmea Fasciata is easy, 'pups,' but I have problems with smaller Broms like Crypts and Tills.
My last Till lived about 5 yrs..never flowered nor pupped. :) Died last summer. :(

I set the red Till on the paper towel long enough to snap a picture.

Anyway, one site that specializes in Tills had very interesting ideas for attaching or potting in containers, using tiny stones, not soil.
So, that's what I ended up doing. lol. I was afraid if the Till stood out too much longer it'd die. Both Tills arrived yesterday.
I totall forgot Tills will survive attached to a curtain, like a Kalanchoe leaf.

I'm still unclear about watering/soaking/misting and light. The Till site suggested bright light...People interpret bright light differently. Thanks, Toni


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RE: Tillandsia Care

The Till site suggested bright light Yeah what one means by bright light can vary. I lean toward bright but indirect the usual bright southern window exposure with some added distance 1-2 feet away from window. Summer heat suggestion nothing to direct sun light for to long. During late spring though summer aim for some mid day times with dabbled shade you could even place them on the inside of a lower tree branch as they they don't do well with indoor AC they will need some inside to out side transitioning time.
The idea of stones for the tank looking container sound better than the spag base it's in now if your not going to mount and just as reminder ensure the container still has free drainage holes.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Hi Tone,

I'm a little confused about how you and mrlike are talking about tillandsia care. For instance the red tillandsia, you were worried about leaving it out too long. You cannot let tillandsias out too long because they don't have a root system. They receive all of their water and nutrients through their leaves, not the base of the plant. The base of the plant is only for growing what's called attaching roots. These roots do not carry water into the plant.

If I read it right, mrlike is also worried about the tillandsia tree being in the flower pot containing moss. If I am seeing the picture correctly that tree trunk is a piece of wood with tillandsias attached to the top. There is not problem with the stick being in the moss as far as I am concerned.

Mrlike also suggested that you attach the tillandsia directly to whatever medium you want to where you want to attach it, like a rock or a piece of wood, and put some sphagnum moss in between. Do not do that. You will rot the tillandsia. Tillandsias or not like other Bromiads. They do not need a place of moss to sit on. If you'd like to have the red tillandsia sit in a flower pot, just sit it on top of the opening to the flower pot and that's it. You don't have to have rocks in the flower pot or anything else. If you want to attach the tillandsia to another object use a glue that is safe for tillandsia. E6000 is a good glue that is nontoxic to tillandsia. Another thing you can use to attach tillandsia to a object is hot glue. I use a cool hot glue to mount my tillandsias.

As far as watering is concerned you can do one of two things. Either soak them for a few minutes or mist them heavily with water. DO NOT use distilled water and don't use softened water either. Turn them upside down and shake off any excess water from the tillandsia. You don't want to have water sitting at the base of the leaves. And that is it, you're done. Because your red tillandsia is so shinny I would suggest that you use the soaking method for that plant to make sure that the plant has enough time to absorb water.

I've had tillandsias for over 10 years. They have bloomed and pupped for me. They're all very healthy, so I must know at least some of what I'm doing. I'm always open for suggestions though.

Anyway good luck and happy tillandsia growing!

Larry

This post was edited by larry_b on Mon, Feb 4, 13 at 3:00


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Hi Toni,

Oh, and don't use warm water to mist or soak your tillandsia. I did that once to a clump of tillandsia and it killed the whole clump by the next day. I always use water of around room temperature to water my tillandsia.

Also where did you buy them and who was the seller?

Larry

This post was edited by larry_b on Mon, Feb 4, 13 at 4:47


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RE: Tillandsia Care

I saw these for sale at the store with the tiny plants. They were tucked in a coiled wire, hanging in the air, like this (not my pic.)

Here is a link that might be useful: site I borrowed pic from

This post was edited by purpleinopp on Mon, Feb 4, 13 at 9:26


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Hi Purple,

That's really cute! And makes my point. One doesn't need to plant these in any medium for them to thrive.

Larry


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Curious how your Tillys are doing, Toni? They are weird plants, aren't they?! Mine has been occupying this Drac's trunk for the past few months. Noticed it's grown a pup. Hope that's a sign it's happy with it's position and care.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Morning,

I forgot about this thread.

Mr. Like. At first, I hanged the red Till on a palm. Although the Till is small, it was too heavy, bent the entire branch. It's now attached to a mini, metal plant shelf that holds Epi's, without mediums.

When sunny, 'this summer is a dud,' red Till receives indirect light several feet away from south and west windows. Misted daily.

BTW, we don't use a/c or c/a unless temps exceed 100F longer than 2 days. Therefore indoor and outdoor humidity equals.

Larry, wow, you sure know Tills.
Thanks for all the info.

I'll soon have more questions about propagating. I've successfully propagated other Bromilads, 'mainly Achmea fasciatas' but no luck w/Tills.
Unlike Achmeas, I've never seen pups on Tills. Do they exist? :)

Till glue is SO expensive. I'd only need a little, the smallest tube around, but when I searched for Till glue, all were rather larges and high-priced tubes.
What about Super-Glue? Will it do?

Larry, you said you've been growing Tills 10-yrs. Were any pups from mom plants?
When you have time, if you don't mind, will you please explain how pups can be found, and how to propagate. TIA.
If you don't have time, it's okay.

Larry, I keep several spray bottles filled w/water, in different rooms. Plants misted are sprayed with room temp water. So, it's neither cold nor hot.

Oh, I reread your post..Noticed you said 'sprayed and soaked.' Soaking in room temp water may present a problem. Or, maybe not. lol. Guess I can fill a pot w/o drainage holes, let it sit, then soak Tills.
Why would warm water harm Tills? I understand cold water might shock them, but warm???

Larry, I bought Tills on Ebay. I'll open 'My Ebay' then let you know after I find his/her name/store.

Purple, I wonder if Bonsai wire would work.

Coil is a great idea...holds plant and wire is bendable so the top will attach to almost anything.

Purple, oooh, I like your Till.
I didn't think about attaching to my Drac, so thanks for the tip.

Is the pup on the bottom left side, 'looking at puter screen'? So, that's what a Till pup looks like....I guess anyway.
Are you going to detach pup to propagate? If you are, at what size, and how to root? Or whatever it's called?

Took these pics today..Tree Till already bloomed. I don't see pups on my Till, at least, nothing that looks like yours.

Tillandsia

Till tree

When Aechmea fasciata blooms, pups are visible. I've never seen an actual pup on Tills. How many pups pop up per plant? Thanks, Toni


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Hi Toni,

I don't have time right now to answer all of your questions, but I will answer one. DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE!!!! I have killed tillandsias using super glue. I would stay away from crazy glue too. Please spend the extra money and purchase the E6000 glue and do it the right way. Hobby Lobby has it much cheaper than on ebay. And you can use E6000 glue for things other than just tillandsias.

Larry


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Larry, okay, no Super or Crazy glues.

I realize your busy, so one last question which can wait to be answered when you have spare time..Wouldn't I need glue only for mounting?
I wasn't planning on mounting, unless absolutely necssary.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Larry. Ebay sellers name is, Coastaltill1...Company name, CTS Airplants.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

I don't understand this plant well enough at all to attempt propagation, which sounds like something the plant does on its' own anyway. Just gonna just leave it propped in the crook of that tree trunk indefinitely. If it hasn't fallen or been blown out yet, it won't even though it's just sitting there. The leaves have kind of spread out so it's much more secure there than it was at first.

I'm concerned about the change in appearance of your tree plant since you posted the first pic but honestly, I'm not sure which version is the healthier one, just going by instinct that the latest pic doesn't look as good.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Purple..I don't understand Tills either. Bromiliads are easy enough, but Tills, although they're Broms, are smaller and pups grow off mom, instead of the bottom.

If you're talking about brown nearest the bottom, it was there when I got it. Maybe not as much, but the bottom leaves were brown.
When I snapped the original photo, I turned the Till around so brown wouldn't be so noticeable.
As for the top..any off-markings are dead blooms. Wonder if they should be removed.

Tills are lovely, but look their best in a green house or tropical environment.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

These are good questions, I don't have answers. It is greenhouse-like here at the moment! We're like the blind leading the blind, huh? How are your Tills doing?

Here's the whole thing where mine is. A Dracaena marginata tree with some Alternanthera and a little piece of that Portulaca pilosa at the bottom. Doesn't it kind of look like a kangaroo with a baby in its' pouch?

There's a little pup forming, and although I can't see how, it has attached itself to the tree trunk. I used to be able to pick it up, but there's resistance now.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Morning Purple,

Thanks for asking..So far, so good. Considering there hasn't been much sun. Although, humidity is making up for lack of light.

Hey Purp, Yeah, you got your Till to produce a baby.
Congrats..
When the time comes, and if you remove baby till, it shouldn't be too difficult.

I can't separate certain tills and broms..the types where babies grow in the center of mom.
I thought all tills grew on mom, but your photo proves me wrong...which makes me happy.

Your mom Till is in excellent condition, no signs of dying, so yours should last a long time before worrying about separating baby from mom.

I might have asked before...how did you attach till to marginata?
Do you ferilize..if so, which brand and what part of the plant? Top or soil?
Different opinions depending on online sites, books and nurseries.

Purp, I also wanted to thank you for your wonderful idea.
Potting different plants in one pot.
I've done this before, but used large clay pots..ended up way to heavy for me to carry..next time it's plastic. lol.

Not all plants go together, but enough to reduce pot numbers

One more question. How are you Begonias?
I have a question about cane types.

A few Begonias lost bottom leaves. What should I do? Cut back, root 'if cuttings root for me,' or hope new foliage grows on old wood?

Canes dried too much which is the reason bottom leaves dropped. Canes are firm.
Thanks, Toni


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RE: Tillandsia Care

That cute little thing has attached itself to the tree, I don't know how. It happened to fit right in there without being able to blow away. A few weeks ago, I could still pick it up but it's attached itself sometime between then and now.

I've not put any fertilizer on it, I'm sure that doesn't happen in nature. Since it has no roots, it can't have any nutrient deficiencies or PH issues (unless I continually put tap water on it.) Unless it's necessary for the whole thing to stay alive, I have no plans to separate the baby from the mama. From what little I understand about them, it should form kind of a globe of babies around the mama and what it's attached to. This location/position should allow it to make a real sphere shape, I think. No idea how one would separate them, but I'd love to have another for another tree with a crotch in the trunk like that.

Those bigger Begonias I had last year are not great. Hated being inside for winter, didn't get priority very near a window. They are in the ground but had frost right after going out, so got shrunk, had to grow all new leaves and some canes were turned to mush. Then way too much rain, way too little sun. I can't fertilize any plants in the ground because they are always too wet already.

I've been snapping off the tips that are finally growing back and sticking them in more sunny spots but the pill bugs are eating them, should have stuck them in pots with other plants. They rarely fail that way, no more ground prop attempts for those. Looks like I need to move the original roots and stumps too or they may never get back in good enough shape to make it through winter again.

Frustrating, thought they would put on a good show of flowers this year. Still trying to just get them back to health, and have way fewer leaves than when I started this spring. This has given me a new respect for plain ol' wax Begonias. They're not really growing much either, but at least they have flowers while they're (not) doing it. And Plectranthus 'Mona Lavender.' If I'd filled my beds and pots with that stuff this spring, I'd be chopping the flowers away with a machete! Next year I'll do it differently and the weather will probably be perfect for what I did THIS year. Oh well, if we knew exactly what would happen, would gardening be so fun?

I got rid of more than 2/3 of the pots I had going when I started combining plants. The bigger pots rarely blow over too, haven't had to upright a plant since doing that. I'm sure you already know which like the same light & moisture. After that it's just a matter of what actually fits together, physically. Like tall over short, great place to start. Like any single-plant repot, it's not permanent. Whenever changes need to be made next year, that's fine. No doubt I've already made some mistakes, I'm sure. And I didn't know what to do all at once. But once you decide, "these plants can be together," do those. Then stare at the plants until you get the next combo in your mind.

For some plants, they seem to love it so much that I can tell in such a short time already, like the Rex/rhizomatous Begonias. I just laid their root balls on the surface under trees. They now have trees rapidly sucking the excess moisture out from under them, and now dappled light when they are in the sun. Never could find a happy medium where it seemed like enough light for them but not so much that the leaves looked faded anyway. Dappled! The concept has evolved to when I dig up some ground plants that need to be saved, I'm hoping to have existing pots where I can add most of them.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

I bought a Tillandsia cyanea not long back. It looked as though the mother plant had flowered and the flower spike later cut off. There were 3 pups that were close to the size of the remains of the mother.

Did a bit of research on them and one of the recommendations was to not separate the pups from the mother. They said the separated pups would take a lot longer to flower.

Mine's in a pot with an epiphytic mix. I've hung that where it gets morning filtered sun, mid morning and to the end of day shade. It's under one of the other hanging pots and get water dripping down onto it from the pot above when the automatic irrigation comes on. That's twice a day, early morning and evening.

The recommendation I've read for them and most other epiphytic broms is a very weak fertiliser. In nature they would get fertiliser. Like most other "vase-shaped" plants (Birdsnest Ferns, Birdsnest Anthuriums, etc.,) they would get falling debris from other vegetation, miriads of insects and other animals would set up home in them. Frogs love living in them. All these animals defecate (aren't I polite?), leave left over food and even died within them, providing a lot of rich fertiliser. So if you take them out of a natural environment you should be fertilising them. But the fertiliser should be weaker than that for orchids.

Since I've made this an "epic" tale already I'll add this other interesting thing that my research turned up. There are some carnivorous broms. These act in much the same way as pitcher plants. They've been studied and the researchers have stated that the entrapment of prey is a deliberate strategy of the plants. They entice the prey into the 'central vase'.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Ooh, well in that realm, I have fertilized it. In the bucket where I catch rain water, I drown canna leaf rollers, and there's always a lot of poo in those rolled leaves. Also dribbled banana water on it the past few times I made banana water. (Pureé banana in food processor, dilute with rain water, give to plants.)

That's good stuff, Tropic, thanks! I feel much more confident about dribbling water on it from your anecdote. Do you have tons of humidity there? It's almost always above 80% here, at least while plants are outside.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Purpleinopp;

tropicbreezent is right about the animal droppings fertilizing tillandsias. Specifically birds. I would be careful though about fertilizing too often. With what I've read one can over fertilize and kill a tillandsia very easily. Once a month is more than adequate with a very weak concentration of fertilizer. It's also not a bad idea to rinse the fertilizer off after a couple of days.

Watering. Dripping water on it twice a day is probably beneficial especially in a dry environment. In a moist environment that may not be as necessary. With what I've read tillandsias do need a dry period during the day. And they especially need to be dry at night. That is when they process carbon dioxide and they need to be dry to do that processing.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Morning,

Purple,

About your Till. What I mean is, how did your Till stay attached to D. marginata in the beginning?
I understand it somehow grew on the bark, but how did Till fit on Dracaena w/o falling?

I'm so sorry about your Begonias.
They're not goners though, right?

During winter, my 'gonias are set near a west window, but the room is pretty chilly to cold.
I know Begonias are tropical, but they seem to do well in cooler temps during winter months.
Summer is the problem. They love being outdoors, but those darn ants! I'm afraid ants will get in soil, then attract mealy.

The chilly room in winter is super hot in summer. Begonias dislike the heat. But, no other options.
I placed 4-5 in a north window. Would you believe colors faded?!!!

Yes, I agree. Wax Begonias are a blessing. :)

Back to Tills. There's a Bromiliad ferilizer on the market. Wonder if it really works, or a scam.

Most Bromiliads are easy to propagate, but Broms like Tills and Cryptanthus are difficult. Wouldn't know where to begin.

I've already potted various plants in one container. Most green Aglaos with other green Aglaos, same w/reds/pink. Now instead of 15 pots, there's 3. Big difference. Thanks.

Hi Tropic...
Did the article say how much time Broms would take to flower when left on mom?

Long ago, I bought a Brom. Didn't know a thing about Broms. About 8-months later it died..babies and all.
I bought a plant book w/info on Broms. The author stated pups should be removed when they're half the size as mom.
'After the Brom died I vowed never to get another...assuming it was a short-lived plant like Mums.'

Later I bought A. fasciata..A beautiful Brom. Possibly, the easist to propagate.
I removed pups, all 7, each placed in individual pots. I kept one, gave the other 6 to friends.
Pup took about 2-yrs to bloom, but I was SOOOO excited. lol.

Was the author discussing 'all' Bromiliads or just Tills?

Yep, outdoor BRoms are well-fed. Au natural meals.
Don't want to bring bugs or poop, 'sorry not as polite as you,' :) indoors, so maybe a small dose of Fish Emulsion???

You're lucky you have an irrigation system. My irrigation system is either hand-misting or a shower in the sink, lol.

Carnivorous Broms? Wonder if they'd do well indoors? Not that I intend adding meat-eating green. Just curious.

However, it's interesting.

Since you mentioned Birds Nest, my poor, little BNF needs a different pot and medium. It's in a peaty mix, set inside a small terrarium.

Larry. Our backyard is not lacking bird feces.
Most plants being summered outdoors is loaded w/colorful, well, you know.

Maybe I should attach Tills to outdoor trees until autumn. Since they're not in soil, it's possible ants won't be interested moving in.
One problem is temp..lately, night temps drop in the 60's...they're saying 50's next week.

Wonder if 50F is too cold? Toni



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RE: Tillandsia Care

Toni, I read a few different sources so I just kept a summary of a few general things about them in my mind. It was mainly Tillandsia they said to not remove pups early. Can't remember how long they said to flowering, though. I give mine some weak fish/seaweed emulsion occasionally (rarely). But I often see frogs inside them looking very ...um... relieved, LOL.

I have to have automatic irrigation because I'm away for a fortnight at a time. No automatic irrigation, no garden.

From memory, I think there were only about 4 species of carnivorous broms that they found, although there may be more.

I've got about 3 Birdsnest Ferns (and a couple of tiny ones as well). Also got about 3 Birdsnest Anthuriums. The ferns are well designed to catch debris. The anthuriums have narrow petioles but a network of roots to trap debris. It's good when plants feed themselves instead on waiting on you to feed them all the time, LOL.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Tropic I see.
So, all along I was under the impression propagating Tills and Cryptanthus was similiar to other Bromiliads...???

Tropic, can you please post pics of your plants. Birdnest Anthuriums. Never saw one before.

Tills w/frogs..love seeing that...

Gosh yes. It's much better for plants to catch their own food. Problem is, indoors, there's nothing to snatch up. lol.
Unless plants start eating ants! :)

Any advice for my Birdsnest Fern? Asplenium?

Tropic, long ago I had Asplenium in soil. It started small and grew large.
I was told to place banana peel mixed with soil. Don't think I ever did, but peel is supposed to provide magnesium or some such mineral. Ever heard the tale?

Anyway, if you post pics, will you please add BNF, too?

For whatever reason, it'd be nice having a sprinkler similiar to professional green houses. A short mist spraying tropicals sounds good to me..plants, too. Toni


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RE: Tillandsia Care

I am not Tropic, but here's my birds nest fern / Asplenium Nidus. This one has very wavy / crinkled fronds, with last ~1/3 of each frond often changing growth direction several times. Looks cool. Google finds ferns looking different, all over the map, when I search for this one. Go figure.

I keep it indoors all the time, like the rest of my pants. It has pushed several circles of new fronds since I got it in April.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

That's a very nice Birdsnest Greentoe. They've done so much with them these days, there's a tremendous variety in them. There's a number of species, but hybrids, sports and whatever have really multiplied what's now available.

Toni, this is my Tillandsia cyanea


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Birdsnest ferns are epiphytes (and lithophytes) so they need really good drainage but a lot of water as well. That's why they're all over the place in rainforests. High humidity and plenty of air around the roots. Banana skins are good for them (for Elkhorn and Staghorn Ferns as well). They (banana skins) also attract insects to the plants, so extra manure plus possibility of dead insects. Inside a house may not look too attractive though.

This is a Birdsnest Fern in the best of worlds, living in a tropical swampland with very high all year humidity, but it's up in a tree with the air around its roots, and plenty of yummy tropical insects living and/or dying in it. Could life possibly get any better?


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One of my Birdsnest Anthuriums, A. plowmanii, growing on a log.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Yes, yes, yes!

My Gramma told me years ago a banana would make the roses bloom. Slightly simplistically expressed, but generally a very true bit of wisdom. Just brush the dirt aside a bit at the base of the rose, lay the banana/peel, brush the dirt back over it.

The more I 'play' with bananas/peels, the more amazed I am, even for non-blooming plants. Also, bananas are the #1 organic 'fertilizer' I've ever encountered being mentioned.

This year I've expanded to giving any/all potted plants some banana water. Haven't seen any reason not to continue/expand this, quite the opposite.

I don't have a blender but use my food processor to whiz peels (except the piece of stem at the end, it won't liquify in there,) and the inside part too if I buy black clearance nanas. Dilute unscientifically, as much as I think I need to that day to water what's thirsty with a little for everyone. There's chunks, so I aim away from leaves if possible but doesn't seem to bother any leaves it's gotten on (yet.)

Laying peels on the surface definitely attracts fruit flies (and other flies,) and not practical for something like Tillandsia, a few drips of nana water at the base is what I've been doing for that. Once dry, doesn't attract flies to that or any other pots.

Sometimes I do lay peels in potted plants, if I'm going to sit there for a while that day. They only last a couple days until turning into a hard, crispy thing that just looks like a leaf, and I love watching anoles catch the files.

I believe I will continue the banana water inside this winter, though probably strain the bits out to avoid fungus gnat exploitation.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Mornin all!

Hey Purp...

I wonder if using a juicer would be a step in an unnecessary direction...or am I on to something here?


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RE: Tillandsia Care

I'm sure that would be fine, theoretically, never used one. Anything to make it 'pourable,' a liquid.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

would solids encourage mold?


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RE: Tillandsia Care

As long as the solid is moist, it will attract flies, but doubtful little bits of banana would stay moist enough to grow mold. But if you did this often, you could get a layer of bits that could be a problem if staying moist. The decomposition process really shouldn't be happening in a pot, but really not while inside. Even I'm not willing to do that experiment, trying to avoid it.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

This was what gave me the idea of the juicer...or just scrapping the juicer idea..just screen the solids maybe?


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IDK, really. Anything really small, I'm not worried about. Something as big as a marble, probably not good. Food processor just doesn't do as good of a job at liquefying as blender, kinda big chunks of peel are unavoidable with it. If I had a blender, I'd use that instead.


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RE: Tillandsia Care

For tillandsias,I could see using a coffee filter to screen it and then once free of solids on that scale,perhaps it could be used in a sprayer.

...just idle thoughts. :)


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RE: Tillandsia Care

Oh, well you're talking to someone with "a compost pile" and various other decompositions under way. It doesn't show on this forum, but I'm actually more of a dirt/decomposition-o-phile than a plant-o-phile.

For example, decomposition is starting a new flower bed out front. I hate digging up grass. Right now, it's the wrong kind of focal point, but I don't care, and it's not an uptight neighborhood, and hopefully one can tell from the yard as a whole that it's preparation for something much more pretty. Having a temporary river run through it (without Brad Pitt anywhere in sight) isn't helpful at all, but until this summer, that's never happened there before. The grass never grew back in that area after drought a couple summers ago, so I figured the spot wanted to be a flower bed, right? I hardly have any in sun.

Tillandsia has been watching all of this, I think it's inspired. It's actually the pot farthest to the right in this pic. No doubt it got a good drink 2 days ago. I don't usually have that pot in the rain but it seemed like a good idea that day, it had been a while.

It's pretty rain-blurry, so yes, it's a pile of leaves (and other stuff that will remain our secret) with some grass on top added Sunday, 2 layers of cardboard under the timbers and stuff in the middle. Stuck a couple Oriental lilies in there a couple months ago, but will probably move them again next year. Too short of a thing for the middle, but they did put on a show recently, it was worth the little effort.


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When and where a river runs through it,I always daydream about running a liner down it and making a stream to a collection point(which would obviously been lined as well)with a recirculating pump to feed it back topside. Topside would be a grotto with a waterfall or even a series of waterfalls.

Looking at your pic I can just imagine it.

By the way,..you're making me feel guilty for not doing the compost thing. Dabbled in it years ago but really not since. lol


 o
RE: Tillandsia Care

I'm doing 50 things at once, but I wanted to see Tropic's plants.

Tropic, one again, your photos are very impressive.

Your Till is amazing. I've never seen a Till so large and full.
I'm sure your plants get adequate food without adding fertilizer.

The area w/the Birdsnest is gorgeous. Man, would I love to visit, but unlike the folks in the pic, I'd have to dress in metal gear in case a huge spider came along.

Speaking of Birdsnest. How big do they get? That plant is humongous!
I believe the Birdsnest is in heaven. All its needs are available without the handling of man. Amazing, isn't it?

Ah, maybe I have seen Birdsnest Anthuriums, just didn't know what they were.
Very pretty..another happy plant.

Look at those leaves on your Pothos, ahem, Epiprmnum. They're huge. Wish we lived in tropical wonderland, minus spiders.

Tropic, thanks for posting pics. You're a very blessed person.

Greentoe. Your BNF looks great and healthy too. Leaves are perfect. I wouldn't dare move it to a different location. Seems to like where it's living.

There are many Asplenium species. Elkhorn, 'think that's the name,' and Spleenworth are two that come to mind, but can't think of names right now..BTW, those are common names, I'd never remember their botanical names. :)

Purple, your Cannas are so beautiful. Wish I could grow them. :( Toni


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RE: Tillandsia Care

I have a couple of red bromeliads like in the first photos. I think they actually have red paint on them. Mine have faded, too. I just leave them perched loose in a window and dunk them every few weeks. They've survived this way since last October and were okay with temps in my house in the 50s last winter. They've grown a little this summer and now have some leaves without the red paint on them.


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