What are you fertilizing with (brand and NPK)? Does your fertilizer contain Mg?

How long since the last repot?

Al

The high P content in the fertilizer (the 15 number in the middle of the 10-15-15) tends to raise soil pH while the P competes with Fe/Mn and can cause antagonistic deficiencies of these and other nutrients.

These things are easily fixable, but more input is needed to make an educated guess at the best course.

Al

If days are sunny/warm, then half-strenght fert, once a month, if sufficent..If days are cool/cold, and dark, give the plant a rest..Actually, reducing fert should have been done a couple months ago..' especially if your climate is cool/dark.'

But don't worry..It's not advisable to repot a plant in bud/bloom.

For starters, check your Acalypha for Spider Mites. Look for webbs. Your plant probably doesn't have mites, but it never hurts to inspect..Besides, Acalypha's are mite magnets..

If new leaves produce pale green leaves with pronounced veins, it's time for a change. In fertilizer. Preferably, higher in Nitrogen, with additional minerals. Compare fertilizers before purchasing. Ex..20-20-10

After flowers fade, I suggest pruning. If stems are green, remove leaves and root cuttings. Good luck, Toni

It wouldn't hurt to test for mites, but mite damage is most prevalent in older leaves - closer to the bottom of the plant and on leaves on the plant's interior. Since you describe the condition in terms that describe interveinal chlorosis, it's most likely a deficiency of one of the micro-nutrients or possibly Mg.

A fertilizer change might be helpful, but not because of the pale leaves. A general purpose fertilizer like MG 24-8-16, or MG 12-4-8 are very good choices for houseplants. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is an excellent fertilizer. Your 10-15-10 is supplying 9x more phosphorous than your plant can use, which can cause 2-3 technical problems I won't go into.

IF your chlorotic leaves are nutrient-related, it's doubtful that changing fertilizers will fix it. Here is what I would do:

I would flush your plant's soil - Wet the soil thoroughly - completely saturate it with room temp water and allow it to rest for 15-30 minutes. This allows the accumulating salts in the soil to dissolve into the soil solution. After the wait, flush the soil repeatedly with at least as much water as the volume of the container, Do this at least 5 times. This flushes the salts out.

If you are using a free draining soil, like those I use, you can return the plant to the pot (but if you were using a free-draining soil, there would probably be no reason to make flushing the salts from the soil necessary). If you are using a heavy soil and you need to be concerned that the soil might remain wet long enough that root rot might become an issue, depot the plant and set it on a newspaper over night. Be sure it's on something that won't be harmed by any ink imprints. In the AM, return the plant to its pot and fertilize at the next watering with an appropriate fertilizer.

Because I think you have an Fe or Mn (iron or manganese) deficiency that isn't related to an actual physical shortage of those elements, rather to high pH, I think you can correct it by adding vinegar to your irrigation water. Fe and Mn form insoluble compounds when pH rises. The elements are definitely in the soil if you've been fertilizing, but the plant cannot absorb them. Adding 2 tbsp of vinegar to the water will neutralize the alkalinity and help the Fe/Mn to dissolve so the plant can take it up.

Also, in case you're dealing with a Mg deficiency, you should try dissolving 1/4 tsp of Epsom salts in a quart of water. Use it to spritz some of the foliage, but not all of it. If the foliage greens up within a few days, you'll know it's Mg and we can fix that easily.

It sounds complicated because I tried to explain along the way, instead of just giving directions, but if you think about how easy the steps actually are, you'll see it takes little effort.

Let me know how you fare, or if there is something you don't understand and needs clarification.

Al