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melaniehope_gw

I think my Ficus is dying!!

melaniehope
15 years ago

Ok I have a 3 foot Ficus Benjamin. I've had it about 4 years. Its always been very healthy except for when I moved to a new apartment 3 years ago. I use an Aqua globe and use plant light since its winter time. I fertilize about once a month. Now about 3 months ago I got a ficus from the local home depot bc they were throwing them out. This is when my "baby" started its changes. It started dropping leaves fast!! Then the ones that were left started turning yellow. I had a relative come over and said the bare limbs were dead and I needed to cut them back so I did. Now my baby only has like 10 (wilted) leaves left on the whole thing. Im beginning to worry it will not make it. So, two questions am I suppose to cut off the dead new growth :( and what can I do to prevent it from total death?

Comments (4)

  • tommyr_gw Zone 6
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    They drop leaves when their environment changes. This is NORMAL for them to do. Temperature change, light level change, humidity change all can cause this. Get rid of that aqua globe. Ficus like to dry out a bit in between waterings. Give it bright light and cut off the dead stuff. It should start throwing new leaves soon enough.

  • jeannie7
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Melanie, houseplants are fidgety things, they react to subtle changes. Where the plant receives care on a regular basis, they are happy.
    When you change their environment, they react...sometimes not to their benefit. When you removed it from the other home to the apartment, you changed its light and maybe other ways. Not that it was much different, just different enough that the plant reacted to it.

    You are using a gro-lite...that brings up a lot of questions about its viability. Being on this gro-lite, what length of time of day do you use it, and how close to the plant. A bigger question tho is "is the plant growing?".....because feeding a plant that is not growing is forcing the plant to take in food when it cant use it.
    Now the light levels are returning, and fertilizer can be given the plant according to its needs---as it is putting on new leaves. The new leaves will be light in color green, the old leaves will retain the dark green.

    As light levels increase toward June 21st, the plant is withdrawn from light it might be receiving directly.
    Good light, but not direct light is what it prefrs.
    As memtioned by Tommy, the plant should be allowed to dry down somewhat between waterings, and watered to drainage when required.
    The drainage should not be allowed to sit under the plant--possible reason why yellow leaves are occurring.
    Let the water gain room temperature.
    When feeding a water soluble fetilizer, water the soil first, then fertilize. The water percolating down carries the food to the roots. Otherwise, fertilizer given it might not reach the roots or it may reach it in a too-rich solution.
    This too can cause yellow leaves.

    The light you are giving it might not be enough to satisfy its growth--which you are feeding as well.
    Combined with natural light, the gro-lite should be strong enough to encourage growth so that the fertilizer is used properly.
    If its not growing to your satisfaction, then don't feed it.

    Water use by the plant will pick up now that the sun is supporting growth. The gro-lite, depending on where and how much it receives sunlight, might not be needed further.

    If you feel you may have overwatered the plant through winter, you might unpot it, examine the roots for any sign of rotting...it might smell bad.
    That can be taken the soil should be changed. Cut away any roots you think are damaged and cut the plant back however you feel necessary. New potting soil will feed your cut-back plant for a little while...it needs no further fertilizer.
    Let the plant begin to show new growth and in a month or so, begin to feed it according to its growth needs.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    All plants are reactive organisms, so they react to a wide variety of stimuli. When cultural conditions move toward what is unfavored by the plant, the plant will react in a negative manner; but when cultural conditions are favorable, the plant reacts with more robust growth.

    The reputation Ficus b has been saddled with for reacting unfavorably to any cultural change is a misguided overview. When light intensity changes from too little toward adequacy, or when temperatures move from too cool to adequate, or when the soil moisture is just right, you can expect a favorable reaction, and not a plant that pitches a fit & throws its leaves at you. On the other hand, poor soils (and related watering issues), too much salt in soils, sudden chill, and sudden decreases in either photoperiod or photo-intensity are all negative changes that can/do frequently cause defoliation.

    Jeannie: Your offering of "A bigger question tho is "is the plant growing?".....because feeding a plant that is not growing is forcing the plant to take in food when it cant use it." is very wrong. I'll explain it again - You CANNOT force a plant to take in food. FERTILIZER IS NOT FOOD, and even if it was, the mechanics of osmosis (the process by which plants absorb water and nutrients @ the cellular level) are such that too much fertilizer in the soil solution PREVENTS uptake of both water AND the nutrients dissolved in it. Too much fertilizer causes plasmolysis (fertilizer burn) - it does NOT cause plants to overeat!

    Additionally, new potting soil, fresh from the bag, will always be deficient in some nutrients unless it has been charged with supplemental fertilizer. You can only rely on potting soil to supply the nutrients your plants need if you know it has been supplemented, and then not for long. Container culture requires that you take an active role in nutrient supplementation or be satisfied with what growth can be squeezed out of the plant while it copes with nutrient deficiencies.

    "... two questions: am I suppose to cut off the dead new growth :( and what can I do to prevent it from total death?

    If in fact the growth is dead, there is no reason to retain it, but I would be cautious about removing any viable parts. The second question is a little more difficult to answer from here. You don't need vague, 'fits all' advice, but there's not much to go on, either.

    Let me ask you a couple of questions, please? When you water your plants, do you water them at the same time? do you water so that the soil is thoroughly moistened and at least 10% of the total amount of water applied exits the drain hole, or do you apply just enough to give them 'a little drink'? Are there new buds forming/formed where leaves fell? what color are they? Let us know if you think the plant has been exposed to continuing or sudden chill, or if you have moved it from a bright spot to one dimmer.

    What kind of fertilizer did you use (brand, and the 3 numbers representing the NPK %s) and what strength dose?

    Al

  • melaniehope
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I use the plant light every night for about the same amount of time. The light is standing spot light thing. I use it for two plants at one time. My apartment faces north and doesnt get much light. I havent changed anything!! I took the aqua globe out. Now today I cut off the all the dead new growth. It looks so sad now!! Please keep your fingers crossed!!

    Jeannie, I believe it was growing until all this happened. I was having new growth every time I turned around. When spring arrives do you think I should give it some now potting soil (if it makes it that long)