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msull14

Pruning ficus lyrata to branch?

msull14
10 years ago

Hi
I have a fiddle-leaf fig that is thriving but is just a stalk with leaves--no branches. I can't find anyone local with any experience with this plant. See photo. If anyone can help me understand how to encourage it to branch, that would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

Comments (89)

  • litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
    6 years ago

    That looks neat, Rob. I assumed air pots were made of some kind of fabric, but that must be some other product.

  • halocline
    6 years ago

    There are actually ALOT of fabric pots on the market; such as: "Smart Pots", "Dirt Pots" etc...




    Rob

  • robin98
    6 years ago

    The air pot looks very cool, reminds me of something but I can't quite think what. No doubt will come to me in the middle of the night. Do they work as they're supposed to?

  • halocline
    6 years ago

    Both types work well, but the "Air-Pot" is not exactly designed to work with soils like the "Gritty Mix". you have to make some adjustments either to the pot, or the soil mix.


    Rob

  • willstuff
    6 years ago

    Morning guys. My two new branches are looking great! But the older leaves are looking dull and browner than normal - not their usual glossy green selves. Is this a sign of too much sun?

  • James Lopez
    6 years ago

    Rob,

    I'm curious to know what adjustments you made for your airpots. Those holes look larger than 1/4" so I want to assume you increased the the size of the gritty mix components at least for the outer perimeter of the pot.

  • halocline
    6 years ago

    James - Here are pics of the bottoms of two different sizes of Air-Pots.

    (#1)


    (#2)


    As you can see, they're both different. (Why? I don't know.) The larger one (Orange) is more conducive to being able to contain soil, as the smaller one has ridiculously large triangular spaces. For those; I cut out a round piece of "Joshua Roth" Bonsai screen, and fit it into the bottom of the pot.

    As far as soil goes, the Gritty Mix doesn't work, it just falls out of the sides and bottoms. So I concocted a soil similar to my Adenium soil; with larger materials like in the 5:1:1 mix. I use Lava rock, Coarse Perlite, Pine Bark, Fir Bark, and a small amount of FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil. (Sometimes other available materials.) I usually put a thin layer of Lava Rock, or Coarse Perlite on the very bottom.




    If you watch Air-pot's instructional video, it show's a guy packing bagged potting soil into the pot.

    Rob

  • willstuff
    6 years ago

    Guys, me again. Since I cut the top off my FLF I have two new branches, so thanks for the help with that, Al. However, the leaves of the entire plant look brown and curled up now and im not sure why. Al, can you help? I did move the plant outside for a few days to give it extra sun and allow the air to circulate around it - do you think it got too much?

  • halocline
    6 years ago

    Will - Sorry to see that. Did you move your tree into direct sun w/o hardening it off? Meaning, w/o gradually letting it acclimate to full sun in short increments.

    Rob

  • willstuff
    6 years ago

    Yes, I think I did. I'm an idiot. Think it'll be ok?

  • halocline
    6 years ago

    Yes. Remove the damaged leaves, and new growth should soon appear.

    Even though I use shade cloth at the start of Summer, some of my plant's leaves got scorched during a stint in the upper 90's last week.

    Live & learn.

    Rob

  • Julia Jones
    6 years ago

    Wow I'm so happy to come across this post. I've been looking for advice on how to get my Ficus Lyrata to branch for ages.

    I've chopped the top off it twice and both times it started a new bud, but only one so basically just continuing the trunk that I chopped off. I'm therefore still on an (almost) straight line upwards. Any idea what I might be doing wrong? I'm in London btw so our weather conditions aren't the best unfortunately ;)

    Thanks in advance for your help!

  • robin98
    6 years ago

    I'm interested in that too - it would seem pointless to chop the top off if that's all that happens. I think you'll get answers that say timing matters, that your tree needs to be in its most vigorous growing time of the year, and be thriving with lots of light and higher levels of fertilisation. But I'd love to hear what the real experienced growers say (ie. not me) :)

  • halocline
    6 years ago

    I've owned many ficus, but never a lyrata. Some plants are funny that way, but for the most part, you usually get 2 (or more) new apexes after a chop.

    If the internodes are close enough together, you could try a diagonal cut. This way, activating both dormant buds.


    Rob

  • litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
    6 years ago

    I think Robin is right; plants respond completely differently when days are long and when they're short, whether the plant gets direct or indirect sun, and regardless of timing they won't respond enthusiastically with multiple buds unless they've got the energy reserves to push that kind of growth.

    I've got light challenges inside my apartment, and I live in Utah! Artificial light isn't as intense as real sunlight, but my plants responded strongly when I added some 100 watt 5000k (bright white color temperature) LEDs and CFLs last fall. The added light quickly stimulated new leaves and some moderate backbudding, and they grew better add the days got longer, even before I put them outside in real sunlight.

    If your ficus's energy reserves are depleted from watering issues, lack of fertilizer, or a long period of insufficient light, you might have to wait a few months for it to build up some reserves before you see better growth, which is when you'll get a better response to pruning or pinching. But if it's in reasonable health, this is a good time to see what response you get, especially if you add a little extra light at the same time.

  • halocline
    6 years ago

    Much like "lb", I live in Colorado; and don't have a very long growing season. So, if you really want your plants to do well in times w/o sufficient sunlight, supplemental lighting is a great way to achieve this.

    I grow a lot of Adeniums, and could let them go dormant for the Winter; where as I could just store them away in a spare room w/o paying them much attention. However, in the dark days of Winter, I like some bright light; and the ambiance that healthy, colorful, blooming plants give to a room. So I keep my plants in a state of vegetative growth; year around.



    In this environment, I can treat & work on my plants as though it were early Spring, mid Summer. For example: I can repot, transplant, prune, defoliate etc... At any time.

    By looking at my grow set up('s), you can probably imagine, they come with a significantly higher utility bill. ;-) But you don't have to go overboard to see some improvement w/ supplemental lighting.

    Rob


  • litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
    6 years ago

    Just in case Rob's setup seems intimidating, you shouldn't throw up your hands thinking that anything less is useless, especially if you have fewer plants or if you can't or don't want to dedicate that kind of space or money.

    My lighting arrangement is simple: one swing-arm architect style lamp and four clamp-on workshop fixtures, a few 100 watt CFL bulbs and some 100 watt LED bulbs, one six foot pole, a shelf for the workshop fixtures, and some small tables at different heights to keep my different sized plants at the right distances from the lights. 150 watt bulbs work even better if you can find them. I prefer LED bulbs even though they're more expensive because they last longer and run cooler than CFLs.

    The bulb's light still needs to be at the right frequency or color temperature, which is between 3000K and 4500K, in this simplified system. Bulbs in the US list the frequency on the packaging and with all the other info at the bottom of the bulb.

    Just as a plant needs to be very close to a window to get any benefit from sunlight, it needs to be close to the supplemental light. I generally put my lights within six inches of the plants and used the pole from an old torchier to position one light to the side of the ones that were too tall to get meaningful light on their lower leaves.

    HTH!

  • halocline
    6 years ago

    Yes! Providing light to the lower parts of the plant is something many growers forget about. And yes, you can put together an efficient grow set up on a budget. T5 High Output Fluorescent bulbs are cheap, and work well. The power of reflection is also something people overlook. This type of product however, is not one to compromise on price/quality. I use this Reflective Film -



    A lot of people (including me) try Aluminum Foil, Emergency Blankets etc... I've done a lot of experiments, and nothing comes close to utilizing your lights full potential, as this type of film (not even mirrors).

    Examples:

    (You can see where the film ends, and the wall begins.)


    (Here, you can see my reflection of me taking a pic of myself; standing 6-7' in front of my grow setup. There were no other lights on in the room.)

    I own several of these fixtures.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMX5EGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And I like this brand bulbs.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K36YIRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    At 16 - 18 hours of constant daily use, each bulb will last over a year.

    The difference between this type of fixture (and many others), and LED's, is that you will pay less at the point of purchase for these, and more on a monthly basis via utilities. With LED's, you will pay a small fortune (for a good one) at the POP, but barely notice a change in your utility bill (for a long time).

    https://www.amazon.com/KIND-K5XL750-LED-Light-NOTE/dp/B072PPC6GY/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1499395520&sr=8-37&keywords=kind+led+grow+light

    That's about mid range; for the more popular brands. :-)

    Rob

  • houseofgwyn
    6 years ago

    similar to julia and robin, i'm only getting continued growth along the same branch when i prune, rather than generating multiple branches. this is making my 2 f. lyrata look kind of stringy. unlike julia and robin, i don't seem to have an issue with light—i live in a converted warehouse in the san francisco bay area with 2, 7'w x 6'h, south-facing windows and a 4'w x 8'h skylight above, so in the winter, they are flooded with light for long periods of time, and in the summer they get loads of indirect light. indoor temps are mid-60s to mid-70s (and fairly consistent humidity) year round, and i fertilize about monthly (10-15-10).

    they both show signs of being very happy (putting out leaves regularly, shiny, healthy, rebound quickly after repotting). when i got them, they were in the same pot and little more than 5'-tall sticks with a couple leave on the top. i repotted and they started putting out branches right away. i separated them about 3 years ago, with the goal of shaping them into pleasing trees. they now have multiple branches coming off the main trunk, but those branches have gotten very long, without any additional branching of their own—hence, the stringiness. when i prune, they re-bud quickly, but only with a single bud just above the leaf where i pruned.

    am i just pruning at the wrong time of year? do i need to prune back closer to the main trunk? do i need to remove leaves below the place where i prune to force branches to bud above the removed leaves?

    thank you!
    gwyn

  • robin98
    6 years ago

    I haven't pruned mine, I'm just interested for future reference (if I'm the robin you're referring to). So I'll be interested in the answers to your post too!


  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Branches don't stop extending when you start wishing they would; they stop extending when they're truncated in such a way that the apical meristem (growing branch tip) is removed. This significantly reduces the flow of a growth regulator/ hormone (auxin) that suppresses lateral growth (back-budding) and makes regnant another growth regulator (cytokinin) that acts antagonistically against the influence of auxin. With the influence of cytokinin predominant, back-budding will occur. Your plant's level of vitality and stored energy + it's current and immediate future's ability to make food + how hard you prune, is what determines how enthusiastic your tree will be about responding to your pruning/pinching efforts.

    When new branches form, allow them to grow 3 leaves. When the third leaf on a branch is mature or almost mature, cut the branch back to immediately distal to the second leaf. This should cause new branches to form in the axils (crotches) of the 2 leaves you left. When those branches have extended to 3 leaves, cut them back to 2 leaves. This is called 'pinching'.

    Now, you get a better response if you can time your pruning and limit it to a single event in the summer. So, if a leaf happens to get to 4 or 5 leaves - no big deal - cut it back to 2 leaves, as you will cut back all other branches with 3 or more leaves. This is almost a requirement for lyrata grown indoors because of its reluctance to back-bud, but it's a very good strategy for producing a compact and highly ramified (lots of leaves and branches) plant. Other species of Ficus that have smaller leaves and are more cooperative about back-budding can be snipped back to 2 leaves after they get 3-5 leaves on a branch. From these more obliging back-budders, you can be nearly certain of getting 2 new branches forming in leaf axils very soon after the pinch.

    This all works very well on healthy trees, but those circling the drain will never be able to marshal their forces to affect an eye-appealing mantle of foliage until you can raise their level of vitality to the point you can see their good health at a glance.

    Al

  • houseofgwyn
    6 years ago

    thank you, al! i'm just a hobbyist (though I've had some amazing luck), so i appreciate your thorough explanation.

    sounds like now is the perfect time for some tough-love summer pruning/pinching! since the lyrata's leaves are so large, i've been reluctant to trim back too much at once, because i'm afraid it will make it look bare. sounds like—once again—patience is key. thinking on it, indeed, the hard pruning i've done to my f. lyrata in the past have resulted in branching, but not the lighter pruning.

    conversely (as you noted), my f. benjamina are more receptive to branching with light pruning: one of them, which i acquired when it was about 4' tall and multi-trunked, is now a 10' tall, single-trunked beauty with a pleasing shape.

    gwyn

  • grgugel
    6 years ago

    Hi, I am grateful for the abundance of knowledge in pruning the ficus lyrata stated in this forum! I am a plant hobbyist and work in a houseplant store caring for all our hundreds of plants of many varieties. We have customers always seeking plant care advice. I have a customer wanting help with pruning her 2 FLFs and I have some knowledge of directional pruning and have offered to make a house visit to see her FLFs and give advice on pruning to tame her fiddles. They receive very bright indoor light and are growing rapidly outward and she wants them to be more compact and upright as they were when she first purchased them. My question is, if there is no concern for immediate growth can a fiddle be pruned hard now even though it is November? Thanks in advance for your help!

  • grgugel
    6 years ago

    Thank you very much for your advice!

  • patelcommaneil
    6 years ago

    I was hoping for some guidance. I recently purchased an 11ft ficus lyrata from an estate sale and have been reading about pruning for the past couple of days. I would like to encourage additional growth on the top 1/3 of the tree, with more branching, forming something of an umbrella look.

    The tree form is interwoven from 2 trunks (about 11 ft tall), which split at about 3.5 ft high to form a "Y". One of the trunks splits further, close to the "Y" to form another vertical branch/stem that is about 7ft high.

    From my brief self-study (i.e. numerous google searches and youtube videos) of trees, it appears the tops have been pinched and there is good growth coming from the top 1 foot. I am a bit concerned because the additional growth is so close to ceiling. I had thoughts about notching the main trunks closer to 7ft to get additional branching. Another thought was to cut back one of the trunks to 7-9ft and hope for back budding. Or, perhaps a bit of both.

    Note, I have only owned the tree for a couple weeks. I was thinking of waiting until after winter to get started. I live in Charlotte, NC.

    Any feedback is welcome. Thank you, in advance.





  • Hannah Strickland
    6 years ago

    This is such a great thread, I have read every comment! I know what I am going to ask has been asked many times but I need some help with training my FLF to take tree form. I have a Bambini Fiddle Leaf Fig that's around a metre tall. Its dropped heaps of leaves from the bottom of both stems from when I moved house and it took a while for it to adjust. I cut the top of both branches and the shorter one has had two new branches shoot, the other had no new branches but the leaves started to grow like crazy.

    I had tried notching about two months ago with no result so today I tried again using tips from this thread. I'm in Australia and its summer time here so from what I have read now is the time to prune or notch.

    Does anyone have any tips of what I can do with the FLF to help create the tree form? Also does anyone clean the leaves of a FLF? I read somewhere you should but I wasn't sure if it was an old wives tale.

    Thanks in advance for the help :)









  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    If I'm seeing new prop roots forming at the base of the trunk above the soil line, you're keeping the plant much too wet. Try buying a wood dowel about 75-80mm. It should be about 120cm long. Cut it in half and sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener. When you think the plant needs water, stick it deep into the pot (as in all the way to the bottom), then remove it. If it's wet, withhold water until it finally comes out dry or barely moist. Barely moist is ideal, but dry is ok as long as it hasn't been dry for more than a day or so.

    I've been at bonsai for 30+ years, so I have become adept at planning for a tree's future. Often, how the tree looks today gives little hint of what it's intended to look like in 10 years. A very high % of the practices applied to my bonsai trees are just as applicable to the trees that populate the pages of this forum. The only thing missing is making sure others are exposed to those practices and how to apply them. Don't worry, I'm not going to suggest your tree should become bonsai material.

    In bonsai, we want very fat trunks that taper rapidly, because that gives the tree the illusion of great age. Hobby growers of houseplants want their trunks to be thick enough to be self supporting. We see hundreds of trees here every year that are laying over on their side, tied together, staked, ...... there is no reason for any of those things to occur, except for a lack of understanding of how to prevent them.

    Think of your tree's trunk as a river. The leaves are creeks and the branches are streams. The more creeks and streams there are contributing to the river, the wider the river is, so inversely: removing leaves and branches eliminates potential thickening of the trunk. You can always take a branch off, but putting it back on takes highly specialized skills.

    If you want your tree to look as nice as it can look, all the time, it will take quite a bit longer to reach your goal. If you don't mind the tree looking a little messy, you can work on its form by pruning branches that occur in places that complement the composition, and allowing other branches to grow unchecked. These branches will be removed later, but in the meanwhile will be feeding, strengthening, and thickening the rest of the tree. They're called sacrifice branches because they're sacrificed after they've done their job. The image below illustrates how you can work to develop your tree while and still keep sacrifice branches to keep it strong both physically and physiologically.


    If it was my planting, I'd prune and repot it and get it outdoors for the summer. I'd make sure that the trunks don't cross one another (visually), and I'd prune the hts based on the thickness of the trunks. IOW, if one trunk is twice as thick as the other, the thin trunk would be half the ht of the thicker. 3/4 as thick would be 3/4 as tall.

    It's important to fertilize, and it will be significantly to your (and your plant's) advantage if you repot into a soil you can water beyond the saturation point at will, w/o the need to worry about whether the soil will retain too much water for an extended period, and thus affect root health and function.

    Some of this might be foreign to you, but non of it is overly complicated or beyond your ability. Your turn. ;-)

    Al

  • Kat DeVince
    6 years ago

    Hi there - thank you so much for all your valuable advice on this forum, I just spent an hour combing through it and learned a lot! I recently (3 weeks ago) hard pruned my Fiddle Leaf Fig in order to encourage branching (it’s the end of summer in Australia and I live in a very warm part of the country - we won’t have cool weather for another few months). I am seeing lots of new growth but not sure if these are leaves or branches or both? I will post pics. My other question is once I start getting new leaves/branches, can I get rid of the sunburned leaves in the picture? The top of the plant that I chopped off was very healthy (I am propagating new plants from it now) but the lower leaves got burned in the first few months of owning it as it lived too close to the window.

    Thank you for any input you may have!

    Kat

  • Amber
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Hi everyone - what a hidden treasure this forum is! Thanks to all contributors. I’m a total newb here (and with most plants in general) so bear with me. My FLF was doing great until about 3 months ago when it froze. I live in New York and left for a 3-week trip in late Dec-Jan. I took steps to give the plant water while I was gone but stupidly (so stupidly!) left the heat off in my apt. Lost a few plants but most are bouncing back now that it’s almost April and they are getting more light and warmth (I have a lot of cacti and succulents).

    Our FLF is finally getting some new leaves at the top! But as you can see from photos below, it’s a very sad looking plant and super awkward look since 90% of the leaves fell off from the shock. After reading through this post, it seems like I may need to ‘hard prune’ him (his name is Watson - got him from a video we shot for IBM! ;)) However I don’t know the first place to start with this - where exactly would I cut?? It seems like I may not want to do any pruning until end of April or May?

    Last question- after I prune can I repot the trimmings?

    Looking for any advice I can get!! Thank you in advance.

    Amber

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    I am seeing lots of new growth but not sure if these are leaves or branches or both? Individual leaves only occur on branches that are extending or capable of extending. All branches have, or had, an area near the tip of the branch where all growth that causes branch extension occurs. This area that produces growth is called the apical meristem, or sometimes, the apex. This area is responsible for producing a chemical/ growth regulator/ hormone called auxin. Auxin is responsible for suppressing growth of new branches in the crotches (axils) of leaves.

    While the branch is extending, for the most part, leaves tend to remain leaves. As soon as you remove the growing tip of the branch by pinching or pruning, you remove the source of most of the chemical that suppresses growth in the crotch of leaves, and you get a new branch - see the little leaf in the crotch of the larger leaf on the right side of the image. That will become a branch, just as the growth in this Ficus cutting is producing 2 new branches in the crotch of both leaves. If I had left the branch intact, instead of pinching it before I started the cutting, those leaves would have remained leaves because the apical meristem where most auxin is produced would have suppressed the new growth:

    Once I start getting new leaves/branches, can I get rid of the sunburned leaves in the picture? If your tree is healthy and putting on new growth, there is no problem with removing old or damaged leaves that have new branches growing in their axils. In the image above, when the new leaves start to open, I'll remove the old leaves. This reduces the amount of energy/food the plant can make via photosynthesis, which makes leaves smaller and closer together. This is desirable because it makes for a much fuller and compact plant. If you want to maximize growth, just leave them on until they fall off or get more unsightly than you want to tolerate.

    Did you notice that the new buds are all in leaf axils or immediately above old leaf (bundle) scars where leaves were attached and what would have been a leaf axil?

    Al




  • Kat DeVince
    6 years ago

    Thanks Al! Most of the buds are in leaf axils (there’s just one that seems to come out of nowhere), and turns out they grow faster than I could have imagined! Thank you for taking the time to respond to me, I really appreciate it! Don’t suppose you have any tips on propagating cuttings for me? I rooted them in water and have just transferred them to seedling mix in pots and am hoping for the best.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    Generally, I root everything in a solid medium instead of water. I'll post something I wrote a while back about water rooting vs rooting in a solid medium. At this point, you'll want to avoid over-watering. Check your soil moisture levels with a 'tell' before you water and keep your soil damp - never wet. Shade - out of wind, or a bright, warm spot indoors would be the best site. It can be very important, especially if the plant is outdoors, to secure it so it cannot move (in relation to the pot) in the breeze or if it's jarred. How I often temporarily secure plants:

    Al

  • allison_balachowski
    5 years ago

    Hello fiddle professionals! I need your help. I got this beauty a year ago, had it in the wrong light and it lost many of its leaves after they turned brown and fell off. I’ve found a place it’s loving and thriving now, but I’m finding it only grows new leaves from the top, so the branches aren’t filling in below. Can anyone help with how and if I can promote growth lower on the branches?

  • Carley Metcalf
    5 years ago
    I'm having the same issue as Allison I'd love some advise!
  • sellophane_girl
    5 years ago

    Hi Al,

    Thank you so much for all your advice in this thread! I have two separate bushes in one pot. It has been growing like this without any pruning for 4-5 years. We used to live in a condo that had floor to ceiling windows that faced west and moved into a house last September and all the bottom leaves fell off. It thrives in our old environment and grew very large green leaves. Now I have brown spots on some leaves that remain. I’d like to grow these bushes into two separate trees. As it is June and summer in Canada now, would it be wise to divide the two bushes into separate pots so that there would be one trunk in each (and if so, any tips to separate this?). Reading above, sounds like I should prune these back to 2 leaves each? Does that mean I cut everything off the top and only 2 leaves remain on each single trunk? I’m so nervous to do this so I just want to confirm! Thank you in advance!

  • Dave
    5 years ago

    Carley,

    your tree looks to be getting absolutely no light at all. Move it right up in front of your brightest window ASAP.


  • willstuff
    5 years ago

    Hello guys! Thanks to this forum my FLF is looking great. I notched it about six weeks ago and nothing has happened though - does it normally take a while to see a branch forming, or have I probably done it incorrectly?

  • S M
    4 years ago

    Thank you Al! I have been scouring the internet, trying to understand what to do after lopping off the main apical meristem. This created two branches, but I was unsure how to create even more branches. Your explanation cleared things up. I have several friends who are also growing FLF and are finding the form is frustrating. I can't wait to share this. You are awesome!

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    4 years ago

    I appreciate your kind words, SM - thank you. We all enjoy learning someone found value in our offerings.

    Al

  • S M
    4 years ago

    Hello again Al, I've been reading more of your informative posts on other houzz links, and now I have one more question. A few weeks ago, when I cut off the main apical meristem (from a tree with only one main branch), two new branches grew to form a "y." Now before I prune each new branch back to the second leaf, I was waiting for 3 mature leaves to form; I'm wondering, however, if I should not have at least three branches, one of which would become the "leader." From what I understood on another houzz link, the person had 3 overgrown branches and was advised to keep one as the leader. Should I prune my tree in a way that will produce a third branch from the existing "y"--and then go about pruning back to two leaves after the third branch is established? Or is it possible to choose a leader from the one of the two branches in the"y?" You have answered so many of your reader's questions, and I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge with this community.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    4 years ago

    What kind of tree? If I assume you presently want the tree to be taller, what was the purpose of truncating the stem?

    Trees have different branching patterns, and how you should prune to be most effective almost always depends on that pattern. If it's a Ficus and I understand your description, you had a single stem with no branching. You pinched out the apex and it back-budded in 2 leaf axils. Now you have the truncated stem that has formed a 'Y' (bifurcation) from the top 2 branches?

    If so, you're almost (but not completely) committed to choosing the direction of your leader from the most distal (farthest from the roots) new branch. Prune the lower branch as suggested - wait until the 3rd leaf is fairly well developed, then pinch it back to the second leaf. You should get new branches in both leaf axils.

    As for the distal (new) branch, it will be the natural leader for as long as it has an apex. If it's not growing in an appropriate direction, you need to fix it asap, while it's still young and very flexible. If it is growing near to vertical, pinch it at the first leaf that faces an imaginary line straight up from where the trunk exits the soil. Slanted trees are cool, but to look natural, they wand more visual weight on the side opposite the slant. IOW, a tree w/o visual balance looks like it will tip over at any moment. A tree that leans left and is visually balanced by a longer branch on the right looks stable. For beginners, it's probably best to try to keep the tree close to vertical, even if the trunk isn't string straight. You can accomplish that by A) changing the planting angle when you repot. After repotting, your tree doesn't have to go back into the pot with the same spatial orientation it had before repotting.

    Check this out:




    This tree will eventually be at this angle in a level pot.

    So, A) was, you can change the planting angle to visually balance your tree. B) You can use directional pruning by pinching your leader(s) and branches back to a bud or leaf that will produce a bud (now that you can predictably cause that to occur), facing the direction you would like the branch to grow. C) You can use temporary training devices on new branches to bend the branch to a more favorable position. You might tie a stake to the main stem, then use a strip of a towel or soft rope to tie the branch to the stake in order to bend it. There are innumerable ways to engineer rigging to accomplish that task.


    This Ficus retusa was pruned hard only days before the image. You can see adventitious buds popping everywhere.


    I hope I understood you correctly and that answered your question. If not, reasking and an image should better my understanding.

    Thank you for the kind words as well. Much appreciated. I find answering questions and offering suggestions here a lot more rewarding than watching TV, so thank you for engaging and participating.

    Al

  • S M
    4 years ago

    Hi Al, thanks again for the advice. I love growing plants, but I'm still a newbie (and will probably be learning for the rest of my life). I've been thinking about what you said and have been trying to picture how to proceed with my fiddle leaf fig. I appreciate more than you know that you are open to answering more questions. You said "as for the distal (new) branch, it will be the natural leader for as long as it has an apex. If it's not growing in an appropriate direction, you need to fix it asap, while it's still young and very flexible. If it is growing near to vertical, pinch it at the first leaf that faces an imaginary line straight up from where the trunk exits the soil." I'm not sure I really understand this because all of the leaves are heading in the same direction at a 45 degree angle. You also suggested that I "can use temporary training devices on new branches to bend the branch to a more favorable position. You might tie a stake to the main stem, then use a strip of a towel or soft rope to tie the branch to the stake in order to bend it." I can picture what you mean with this suggestion, and I will try to find some soft green tape from the local nursery. I think I understand that I should to get the branch seem as vertical possible. Is this correct? Also, do I still need to pinch a leaf from the distal branch if I proceed with this technique? I will try to post a photo when I have more time this weekend...or as soon as possible. Thanks again! I agree that having hobby is a more interesting than t.v.!

  • S M
    4 years ago

    I think I understand that I should "get the branch to seem as vertical
    as possible."

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    4 years ago

    Thanks for the kind words, Sarah!

    Al initially said"As for the distal (new) branch, it will be the natural leader for as long as it has an apex. If it's not growing in an appropriate direction, you need to fix it asap, while it's still young and very flexible. If it is growing near to vertical, pinch it at the first leaf that faces an imaginary line straight up from where the trunk exits the soil." Sarah asks, I'm not sure I really understand this because all of the leaves are heading in the same direction at a 45 degree angle.


    Leaves of plants in the mulberry family, to which Ficus belongs, have leaves arranged alternately on branches. Basically, you'll have one leaf growing to the right, the next will be away from you, the leaf after that should grow left, and the 4th leaf completing the series would grow toward you. Any leaf, no matter what it's position is on the branch, can be made to work to change the direction in which the branch grows, but selecting a leaf on the left side of the branch to change the direction to the left is easiest, most natural looking, and can be achieved with the least amount of manipulation, oftentimes, none at all.



    The new branch forming on the right side of the tree is going to grow to the right, not withstanding the effects of phototropism, the tendency of plants to grow toward the brightest light source. If whomever made the pruning cut above wanted the new branch to grow upward, (s)he might have pruned the branch higher, immediately below the leaf high on the left. This would have left a small stub that could serve the same purpose as a stake. Like this:


    The branch with the leaves was growing in the axil of another leaf. I removed the leaf and left a stub to which I tied the new branch to make it grow vertically. You can make the stub as long/high as you like, but do not allow any back-budding along it's length. It will only take a month or so (in summer) for the branch to be 'set' in position.

    You also suggested that I "can use temporary training devices on new branches to bend the branch to a more favorable position. You might tie a stake to the main stem, then use a strip of a towel or soft rope to tie the branch to the stake in order to bend it." I can picture what you mean with this suggestion, and I will try to find some soft green tape from the local nursery. I think I understand that I should to get the branch seem as vertical possible. Is this correct? Yes, that's correct. Also, do I still need to pinch a leaf from the distal branch if I proceed with this technique? I'm not sure I understand the question. You can still tie the new branch you choose as the new leader to the existing leader, but you'll sort of end up with a congested mess and codominant leaders that will confuse your eye. IOW, as your eye travels up the trunk to the top of the tree, there shouldn't be 2 leaders competing for your eye's attention.

    Al

  • S M
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago













    Hi Al, I've been thinking about all your advice--thank you! I should probably upload a few pictures for you to see how it has been pruned and the shape. I may have pruned the trunk too high up, and I'm sure I've made many other mistakes as well. I'm learning as I go! Here is my previous question and your answer. "Do I still need to pinch a leaf from the distal branch if I proceed with this technique? I'm not sure I understand the question. You can still tie the new branch you choose as the new leader to the existing leader, but you'll sort of end up with a congested mess and codominant leaders that will confuse your eye. IOW, as your eye travels up the trunk to the top of the tree, there shouldn't be 2 leaders competing for your eye's attention." As you can see in my pictures, one of the branches seems taller and more dominant. Doesn't this make it the leader? Pruned in this manner, the tree won't have 2 leaders. Or will it? Is it okay to fasten the leading branch the way I did? My second question is: do I prune back to the second distal leaf on both branches--or just the less dominant branch? Or do I proceed in an entirely different manner? Al, thanks again. I think you should write a book. I mean it!


  • S M
    4 years ago

    Would anyone be able to help me with my previous questions? I know there are several experienced growers who may have some advice. I'm afraid the season to prune comes to an end so quickly, and I may miss my chance this year. Thank you in advance for any advice you have.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    4 years ago

    I don't know if you're willing to sacrifice appearance for a year or so in order to make sure the tree's structure is something you can build on, but here's what I wold do. I think I'm seeing a node on the natural branch toward the top of the tree where a leaf has been shed. If that is true, I would prune that upper branch back to 1 leaf, and cut that leaf in half against venation (the veins in the leaf). The reason is, it's a very good thing to have a branch growing from the first 2 nodes immediately distal to the trunk or lower order branch. For reference, the trunk or main stem of a plant is considered to be the first order branch. A branch growing from the trunk/stem is a second order branch. Second order branches give rise to the third, ad infinitum. The reason it's a very good thing to have a branch growing from the first 2 nodes immediately distal to the trunk or lower order branch is because it will produce a highly refined tree, one with leaves and branch density as compact and dense as can possibly be achieved by way of pruning/pinching practices.

    Not to worry about cutting the most distal leaf (and the only leaf) leaf on the branch half. It will not remain as part of the composition. A new branch will form in the axil of that leaf. When the first leaf on the new branch is starting to unfurl, remove the half leaf. Also, it looks like there is a leaf at the base of that branch. That leaf should be removed now; or, if you think it enhances the tree's appearance, remove it when the new branch starts growing where there is now only a leaf/bundle scar. There are dormant buds immediately distal to that scar that will be activated. The reason for cutting the leaf in half is, it further reduces the amount of auxin produced . Auxin is mainly produced in the branch apex (growing tip of the branch) but also in leaves and especially in young leaves. The more you can limit auxin flow in the branch, the more likely back-budding becomes. There are many untapped resources/techniques the hobby grower can take from the art of bonsai and apply to make a huge difference in their plants' vitality and appearance.

    For an upright tree: Think about how tall you want it to be from the floor, maximum ht.. The lowest branch on the tree should be growing from the trunk at a ht. somewhere between 1/2 - 2/3 of what you expect the tree's o/a ht to be. There are exceptions. Sometimes a low 2nd order branch can serve visually as a branch higher on the tree. Example:


    In this mother/daughter style maple, the daughter "tree" makes the composition a twin trunk style, but visually it serves as a branch. Your tree has that potential if you want to work toward it, utilizing the low branch.

    I think your tree is too tall. It looks like it's already close to being maxed out on ht.. I would prune the top back to the first leaf distal to the shrink wrap, and cut that leaf in half. Essentially, a repeat of what you did with the upper branch growing to the right. When the 2 new 2nd order branches occur near the top, they should be trained to about a 45-60* angle off the vertical axis. If you look at a mature tree in nature, you'll see the bottom branches are closer to horizontal with maybe the tips of branches upswept a bit. As you move up the tree, the angle between the second order branches and the trunk gradually decreases. Try ti mimic that for a more attractive tree.

    Al

  • S M
    4 years ago

    Hi Al, I'm sorry my thank you and reply is so late. I got caught up in life and work started again. This summer, we also had family from Europe visiting us for over 3 weeks! And during that time, I became a little discouraged with my FLF. I hired a young girl to plant sit during our family vacation--and she did a great job with the outdoor garden; however, during that time, as back budding was occurring on the ficus lyrata (because of your awesome advice), something caused the buds to dry up. My goal for new branches and ramification stalled. It was probably my fault because I am just learning. I didn't think I could prune and repot into your gritty mix, doing both jobs at the same time of year. And therefore, I pruned only and was leaving my soil for the following year. With more learning from your posts and with the less than stellar growth on my ficus lyrata, now I see the importance of the soil. (Btw, I was able to start another FLF from the prune into your gritty mix, and so I'm learning.) I can't wait to repot (root prune) and prune my original FLF in June. I am coming up with my game plan for this upcoming Spring. I will continue to read up on your posts. Also, with time and a little more experience, explanations that were confusing to me last year are starting to make a little more sense. Well anyways, I wanted to acknowledge your advice finally and let you know that it is very much appreciated. You are a very generous person. Thank you!

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    4 years ago

    I appreciate the kind comments. Thank you.

    What drives the success of the Garden Web part of Houzz are the questions people ask in seeking help for the plant-related issues they are facing; so don't ever be shy about asking questions. Anyone you'd want to listen to won't make you feel small for asking any kind of question - no matter how bashful you might be about asking it. You can be sure, no matter what you're puzzled by, there are plenty of others facing the same issues. In fact, it's not unusual for a question to provide the 'eureka moment' that puts someone on the path to resolution. Too, the back-and-forth between people on any given thread is going to be available forever. So not only might the intercourse help people in the immediate, it might very well help someone years from now. I regularly find "LIKES" in my email for input or answers I left as long as 15 years ago.

    Good luck! I hope your worst day in 2020 is better than your best day in 2019.


    Al

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