The only way to get it to grow from the bottom would be to behead it. You could cut the stem into different lengths and lay them sideways in moist perlite coverd in plastic on a grow mat. The stems should grow new plants fairly easy this time of year with some bottom heat.

Yellow leaves may return to their greeness when the problem is fixed but generally, lower leaves that drop off for whatever is the cause, do not ever return.

If you should try to feed it into health, it will probably exasperate the problem --even to the point of causing more leaves to fall.

Well, I have solved my problem so that isn't the concern. But it sounds like the bottom leaves won't come back. I'll probably end up growing it and then chop it off.

I have a Dieffenbachia and it is about 3ft. The top half is full and the leaves are spread out nice. The bottom half on the other hand is drooping way down and the leaves are starting to turn yellow. I keep it about 6ft from the window. It is growing new leaves all the time, but the more they grow from the top the more droop and then turn yellow then wilt from the bottom. What can I do to stop this problem? and also there is new grow come from the bottom how can i encourage this grow? please answer me in details by all the steps i can do to solve my problem.

This is how these plant grow in nature. I saw them growing along the ground with bare stems 8 to 10 feet long and the last 3 or 4 feet sticking straight up looking perfectly normal.

The one I have is over six feet tall, tied to a stick, and bare for the bottom four feet. I think they'll branch off when the sit on the ground long enough.

Danny

I agree. I've had one of these plants for about 30 years and that's just what they do. For the first decade or so, mine was in a pot with no drain hole and never got repotted or fertilized. Occasionally a pup will come up from the roots. When a tip breaks off, a new tip usually starts somewhere along the stem. The broken tip can live for years in a bottle or glass of water. I've tried to root broken tips in soil a few times, sideways, straight up, 45 degree angle, you name it - never had any luck. I can't say that I was too terribly attentive though. This is a fairly boring plant, IMO. Luckily they thrive on neglect as I sometimes don't think of mine for months during the winter. I'd put it up there with pothos, heart-leaf philodendron, and sansevieria for being tough and long-lived. I think overwatering would be the only sure way to kill one.

Every time I get new leaves I lose a leaf on the bottom. The leaves on top are beautiful. What can I dion?

I meant do to get bottom leaves back. Can I plant smaller plants around it?

lovesangels00@gmail.com

If you haven't been fertilizing regularly, you should start ..... and fertilizer choice is something to be considered, they're not all created equal.

Some nutrients, like nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, and magnesium, are considered to be mobile in the plant. That is to say they can be moved from place to place within the plant and serve where they are needed the most. Other nutrients, like calcium, sulfur, and iron, are considered immobile and must be in the nutrient stream at all times for normal growth to occur.

Back now to the mobile nutrients: If any of the mobile nutrients are deficient in the soil solution, the plant can/will "borrow" these nutrients from existing parts to fuel growth extension. You'll notice I said 'growth extension' as opposed to growth. This is because the plant generally sheds the parts from which these nutrients are borrowed - usually older and inner (within the outline of the canopy) leaves. If the plant must shed a leaf to grow a leaf, that really can't be considered growth, which is measured as an increase or decrease in the plants dry mass.

If it is a nutritional issue, fertilizing will negate the plant's need to cannibalize itself in order to extend and grow new leaves.

Other potentialities are over-watering, under-watering, mites, root rot or impaired root function due to excessive amounts of water in the soil.

Al