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jentex_gw

Please help me keep my poor new dracaena alive

JenTex
9 years ago

Hi all,

The background here is that I've killed every.single.plant. I've ever been given/bought. I'm not sure what all I'm doing wrong, but I'd really like to get it right.

To that end, I'm looking for some advice. I just bought a Dracaena Limelight. I've had it for a week so far. The tips of the leaves turned black about two days after I brought it home, and the leaves are no longer as upright as they initially were. It doesn't look bad, yet, but my track record makes me think it's only a matter of time.

Here's what I've done so far:

I did repot it the first day I brought it home (mistake?). I used a Miracle Grow soil that my Lowes garden center had stocked inside with the houseplants.

After noticing the black tips, I did some reading, which led me to water again (on Tuesday) until the water ran out the drainage holes. The soil is still moist from that watering - it's now Sunday - so I haven't watered again.

I also moved the plant to a slightly warmer room with a West-facing window. The light is bright, but indirect. This room is also a little more humid because the bathroom is just off it. I keep the house around 75 degrees generally.

Am I doing anything wrong? Should I be misting, using a different type of soil, etc? Any advice is appreciated. I've attached a picture here.

Comments (9)

  • zzackey
    9 years ago

    It doesn't look that bad! Bad tips are very common on that plant. I was told that they should have perlite in their soil.

  • rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
    9 years ago

    What kind of Miracle gro potting mix? They make several kinds....what does the label of yours say?

    Frankly, I would prefer that you had waited before repotting. With your track record and all. :-) Find a bright location in your home and allow to adjust.

    Use bottled or distilled water instead of out of the tap, which may have
    fluoride and other chemicals that are harmful to especially sensitive plants. Dracaena of all kinds can be sensitive.

    It's important that you know that though perlite is a good amendment, there can be high levels of fluoride present. Much of that can be rinsed away.

    Don't mist. Useless in raising humidity and can spread fungal spores and tiny plant pests. Your plant will not benefit from misting.

    It's important that you master the watering aspect of plant care. Yes, it's important to water thoroughly but just as important that you know when to water.

    The potting medium has a great deal to do with how often your plant should be watered. The faster it drains, the better.

  • JenTex
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the info, guys. Rhizo - yeah, I started researching after I repotted. Live and learn (hopefully the plant gets to live, too. Sigh).

    The soil is called Miracle Grow Potting Mix. The label tells me that in Texas it contains:

    Processed forest products, sphagunum peat moss, perlite, fertilizer, and a wetting agent.

    I will say this soil holds moisture really well - it is still moist today, almost a week after watering. Based on what you say above, Rhizo, I'm guessing that might mean it holds water too well?

    No misting and distilled water - got it.

    Thanks again.

  • rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
    9 years ago

    Weeeellll....let's just say that it seems like a large percentage of people who visit here with problems use that brand of potting mix. The reason for that is because it holds water far too long, it doesn't offer healthy porosity, doesn't drain rapidly, and can turn hydrophobic if allowed to dry out too much.

    Mastering the art of growing in such a medium takes some experience and intuition. Not for everyone, that's for sure.

  • JenTex
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Gah! It figures. I have neither experience nor, apparently, intuition. So at the risk of imposing on your patience yet again:

    What type of soil should I use? -and-

    Given that I just repotted, how long should I wait til I repot using better soil?

  • zzackey
    9 years ago

    I meant to say shouldn't use perlite. An old nurseryman told me that. FWIW.

  • JenTex
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the update, zackey. I'll be researching soils today.

  • Photo Synthesis
    9 years ago

    I've recently been bitten by the Dracaena bug. First, I bought a "Lemon Surprise," and then a "Janet Craig Compacta." Finally, I bought a "Limelight," too. I had lucked out because Wal-Mart just recently got a shipment of plants in, and they foolishly placed all but one Limelight in full sun, which severely scorched them. I dug through them and found one tucked away in the back, on a lower shelf, which had no burned leaves whatsoever. So I bought it immediately.

    For most of my plants, Dracaenas included, I use the Miracle Gro soil for Cactus & Succulents, and it works just fine. I also collect and use rainwater to water all of my Dracaenas. Once it warmed up enough outside, I placed all of them out in my partially shaded backyard. They get some direct morning and afternoon sunlight and shaded, dappled sunlight throughout the rest of the day. Once I placed them outside, they all have really taken off growing much faster (for a Dracaena, that is).

    Good luck with your new plant. These are definitely becoming some of my favorite plants. :)

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    9 years ago

    I also needed to buy some bagged soil over winter and don't remember if it was a Lowe's brand or MG but it was much more chunky, and labeled for palms & citrus. It's the best bagged potting soil I've encountered, hardly any peat which, IME, is just stuff that helps me kill plants, not keep them healthy. I've been thinking about getting more since I like how it has 'done' so far, not compacting or getting hydrophobic, though I know the chunks of organic materials will decompose quickly in the Alabama weather this summer, just like mix that I create with bark/mulch/similar stuff.

    So, when using a potting mix with organic ingredients (can decompose into smaller bits,) know that it will become less and less hospitable for roots to thrive, because the air spaces are eliminated as the tiny particles sift into them, and the growth of roots squeeze the air out of the pot, necessitating repotting more often, I do this annually. A mix of ingredients that don't decompose, or decompose much more slowly can allow plants to go 2-3 years, generally, before repotting is critical - from that particular angle. I think woody entities stay more healthy if their roots are trimmed annually, but this can be a daunting chore for some larger plants. Not a 1-size-fits-all thing, or 1-sided issue, largely dependent on your style, schedule, budget, etc...

    It's also good to know that the soil you used has fertilizer in it. It should say how long that is expected to last. Adding more fertilizer before then would definitely be overkill for something as slow-growing as a Dracaena.

    Whatever one is using, don't pack it in the pot. Leave it 'fluffed' and full of tiny air pockets. The first few times you water, don't avoid being thorough, but try for a gentle sprinkle, so the motion and weight of the water doesn't compact the soil. This gives roots access to oxygen and moisture at the same time, necessary for them to be healthy, as said above.

    Not to put too fine of a point on the water thing, but aside from being unnecessarily expensive (if actually filtered in a way that it contains no minerals, fluoride, chlorination, etc...,) bottled water has a wide range of possibilities, including being tap water just like what comes out of your own tap. Also common is spring/mineral water, containing unknown substances that may or may not be appreciated by any particular plant. Once water hits the ground anywhere, it can contain various substances, like lime which can alter PH. Distilled, rain, and condensate from dehumidifier or A/C are sources of water with "nothing in it," assuming it's collected in a clean container.