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sbinhb

Fungus or insects on fiddle leaf fig?

SBinHB
10 years ago

Can anyone tell me what is affecting the new growth on my fiddle leaf fig? I have had it about 4 months and the new growth on this stalk has these red spots and is very dry at the tips. The leaves are also not growing as large as those on the other stalk. I have googled but haven't found anything that looks close enough to this.
Thank you!

Comments (57)

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    10 years ago

    How often & how much you should/can fertilize depends in large part on what your watering habits are like and what your soil allows you to do in the way of flushing the soil when you water. I've found that all my plants respond best with frequent low doses of fertilizer. Indoors, plants get fertilized every time I water. When they're outdoors, I fertilize weekly at a little less than recommended doses. I also suggest that a minimum standard for a soil that is acceptable, should include the requirement that you be able to water to the point of saturation and beyond whenever you wish, without having to be concerned that the soil will remain wet so long it negatively affects root health or function. Most soils commonly being used for houseplants don't meet that minimum, and trying to amend them so they do is often not fruitful.

    If I knew you were watering copiously at each watering, it would be easier to suggest a good nutrient supplementation program, because it's only with some knowledge of your watering habits/soil type that anyone can give anything other than very general advice. Water retentive soils complicate plant care; well-aerated, free-draining soils simplify it. Even so, there are tricks that can help you deal with unwanted water retention and help you avoid some of the inherent associated issues. The tricks won't resolve issues like compaction and levels of aeration insufficient for best vitality, but they will prevent the worst of what is commonly caused by excess water retention.

    The link below highlights some ways of dealing with unwanted water retention. I think it would be to your advantage to use one or more either until you come up with a suitable soil, or regularly if you stick with something that gives you cause to be concerned about water retention.

    Al

    Here is a link that might be useful: Click 4 tips ..........

  • Samantha
    9 years ago

    I'm having his same issue with my fiddle leaf. After reading through the comments I'm still not sure how to solve this issue.

  • allen_L
    9 years ago

    I'm having this same problem too. If anyone has figured out what causes these problems (little growth and reddish blotches) in new leaves, any info or help would be much appreciated! Thanks!

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    Often, people who might have ideas about what might be wrong also know that the symptoms might be caused by any one of a number of maladies, and a long list of potential causes really empower the grower with what's needed for a resolution. For instance, the picture posted by the OP almost certainly isn't a disease. That is to say, in my experience it doesn't look viral, fungal, or bacterial. That would mean it's cultural. It looks like it could be mites or possibly thrips. If it's not insect related, it could be nutritional - either deficiency or toxicity. It could also be the result of over-watering.

    When the post first came up, I thought through all these things and decided that saying what I just said probably wouldn't be helpful .... and I'm pretty sure it wasn't. It does, however, provide a platform from which to suggest that you review what cultural conditions are conducive to consistently healthy material, and which are not.

    The plant needs very bright light, but light's not the issue here. It needs to be in a soil that you can water to beyond saturation - so you are flushing the soil of accumulating salts when you water, and you need to be able to do this w/o having to worry that the soil is remaining soggy for so long that it impairs root function or causes roots to rot. It only takes a few hours under saturated soil conditions to kill the fine roots that do the lion's share of the work, and replacing those roots steals from the plant's energy production or reserves. Finally, you need to use an appropriate fertilizer frequently.

    If you were using an appropriate soil, watering correctly, and using an appropriate fertilizer, we could bypass all the potential issues associated with poor soil/watering habits and nutrition and go straight to a probable insect issue ..... but from the information provides so far, we can't do that.

    The link at the bottom should be helpful.

    Al

    Here is a link that might be useful: Click me to start at the beginning .......

  • raifly
    9 years ago

    SBinHB, I am experiencing the same thing. I've read through all the comments, but am not sure if anyone has been able to identify the problem? Have you been able to rectify it since April last year? I've attached an image from my plant. The two central stalks started to blacken near the top and any new growth from that area came out mottled/spotty/brown. The leaves continued to grow bigger, but died off. Whilst I'm finally starting to see some new grown after a period of none, all the new leaves are experiencing the same problem. Is anyone able to help? Thank you! Rachel.

  • raifly
    9 years ago

    Here is a picture of the whole plant (sorry, as I couldn't upload multiple photos to one post).

  • raifly
    9 years ago

    and this is the top of the stalks which have started to darken off. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    With the old leaves remaining healthy and the new leaves showing symptoms of whatever is causing the malady, signs point to A) a deficiency of an immobile nutrient or B) a excess of a nutrient, mobile or immobile, causing an antagonistic deficiency of an immobile nutrient, or C) a toxic level of an immobile nutrient.

    Deficiencies of the less mobile nutrients (Ca and B are very immobile, while S, Cu, Fe, Mn, Mb, and Z are slightly mobile) first show in newly forming tissues because the plant cant 'borrow' the more immobile nutrients from other plant parts like it can the more mobile nutrients like N, P, K, and Mg.

    You need to look at both the cultural conditions that impact nutrient availability, as well as your o/a nutritional supplementation program to narrow things down. It's usually easier to return to what we know is a productive starting point than to try to isolate one thing from a list of possibilities as being causal.

    Try describing what you fertilize with, how much, how often, NPK %s; how you water; what soil you use; any other supplements you use, anything at all you've added to the soil in the last year .... you can't include too much information.

    Al

  • raifly
    9 years ago

    Hi Al, Thanks again!

    In terms of the soil, the plant is still in the same soil that it came in from the nursery around 6 months ago.

    In terms of watering, I tend to water it every 1.5 weeks and make sure that it's not sitting in any water in the tray at the bottom.

    In terms of fertiliser, I had been using Amgrow Nitrosol Liquid Plant Food (12-2-13-7) and then I started using Seasol after describing the FLF's issues to a nursery.

    I've probably only fertilised it 2-3 times in the last few months.

    We got the plant in winter (Australia) and it's now Summer. The plant sits next to a North facing window, so receives lots of indirect sunlight but doesn't get burnt.

    It's so strange because it was doing so well and the leaves at the bottom are still very healthy.

    The plant has recently sprouted new branches off the main stems, and had a burst of new growth, but all new leaves are suffering from the same problem - see picture attached.

    Let me know if you need any further information??

    Thank you and hopefully we can get the plant back to prime health!

    Rachel.

  • raifly
    9 years ago

    and one other image to show the second stem which also has new branches that are suffering from the same problem with the new growth.

  • raifly
    9 years ago

    Hi Al,

    Happy New Year!

    Just wondering whether you've had a chance to look over my recent posts? I'm desperate to know what's wrong with my loved FLF!

    Thanks in advance!
    Rachel.

  • Jessie (zone 5b)
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I got same problem on my tree. How are your trees doing now?

    I found some info online, it's the symptom of mite:


    Insects and Mites

    The only insect that seems to shun the Lyrata is scale, but this observation could just be coincidence. Mites will typically only affect the newest of growth since the older leaves become too tough for mites to feed successfully. Look for many small red dots on new foliage to indicate the presence of mites. Mealybugs will live under leaves, but also in the small protected area where leaves join the stems. There is often a small leftover sheath that remains attached to the plant at this point and it makes a perfect spot for mealybugs to breed. These sheaths can be removed to inspect for mealybugs. Mealybugs should be treated with a systemic insecticide and of course hand removal to really make a dent in the population. Aphids and thrips are more of a nursery problem, but both of these will attack only the newest of the growing points. If you see problems in this area inspect with a hand magnifying lens to determine the problem. Systemic insecticides will protect against aphids, thrips, mealybug and scale. Predator mites or hand cleaning should be tried for mites.

  • marlomurray
    8 years ago

    I have the same problem with my two FLFs, all the new leaves from this spring have brown spots. Mine aren't quite as bad as those pictured above, but still very noticeable. I've been monitoring closely for pests, and just yesterday found that both plants have tiny mites crawling on the top surface of all the leaves. They are VERY hard to notice unless you disturb the leaves somehow, then they start moving. You may have to get out a magnifying glass to see them at all. I'm going to try wiping down the leaves and then applying an insecticide. I'll let you know how it turns out.

  • Jessie (zone 5b)
    8 years ago

    My plant is back to healthy, got new giant leaves red spots free. What I do is using 50/50 alcohol to wipe the leaves and I did repot the plant. Seems spray the rubbing alcohol on the leaves would be best way to kill mites.
    Good luck!


  • Becky Naffine
    8 years ago

    My plant is exactly the same and I just had a really close look at it (where the leaves meet the stem) and I saw the tiniest little white mites crawling around. I have cleaned the plant with alcohol before on suspicion that it may be mites but it didn't do anything. Might try again now. PS - no spidery cobwebs either.


  • Becky Naffine
    8 years ago

    Scrap that, just gave it a clean in rubbing alcohol 50/50 and noticed some very fine spidery webs on the lower leaves where they meet the stem.

  • oprbxk1
    8 years ago

    Hi Becky... how is your plant doing? I am noticing the white mites. Did the 50/50 alcohol work?


  • Becky Naffine
    8 years ago

    oprbxx1 the alcohol didn't fix the problem for me so I don't think it was spider mites. Upon further research my next diagnosis is oedema ie too much water in the soil and the plant cant get rid of it quick enough. I'm cutting back on the watering but my plant is not looking good. I gave it a shower a couple of days ago and literally within one hour multiple leaves turned brown and started dropping. It has dropped about half its leaves and still going :(

  • christopher868
    6 years ago

    Look into the possibility of spider mites.

  • shirleygcheung
    6 years ago

    I don't believe my spots (which appear the same) are from a virus. For one, the leaves that I got on mine when it was young were tiny, and now are huge, but the spots appear occasionally on the new leaves. When I first repotted my plant, it gave me the purple-red-brown spots. Then, when I gave it some mg/cal it gave this massive large dark green shiny leaf! No spots! Then the next week I did the same, with kelp, it gave me spots again! But the leaf was large, shiny and healthy looking still compared to when I got it. And now, the spots occasionally come back and forth and back and forth and I do vary the nutrients from time to time, but after 4 weeks of documenting, I feel like my results are pointing to 2 possible reasons for the spots- insufficient water, insufficient nutrient.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    In most cases, when the grower is supplying several products intended to deliver nutrients, the odds highly favor the probability of the regimen being limiting rather than commendatory, and the reasons are several. Ask if you have interest in the reasoning behind what I said; and, if you have additional interest in knowing how to implement a very effective fertilizing regimen that supplies all the nutrients essential to normal growth (that plants assimilate via the root pathway), using a single product, just ask.

    Al


  • shirleygcheung
    6 years ago

    this is what I meant when I said I can't pinpoint the nutrient deficiency or excess because that doesn't vary but the watering cycle is pretty inconsistent (travel from home quite frequently). This is a photo of ONE of the newest leaves this week. Notice all the 3 large leaves around it (those large dark green ones about 2 weeks old) appear pretty normal. I give it a tiny tiny amount of super thrive and mag/cal every week. its always the same amount.

  • shirleygcheung
    6 years ago

    this is another new leaf on a diff branch and it's pretty normal. It's about as old as the previous baby leaf.

  • shirleygcheung
    6 years ago

    I can usually tell the leaf will have spots the moment it "buds" out. The one right right next to this spotted one appears normal as well! These both appeared the same week!

  • shirleygcheung
    6 years ago

    there are different levels of spotting on all the leaves. There were no spots on the smaller old leaves when I first got the plant (Hirt's) but then again those leaves were 1/5 the size and very dull, not waxy in appearance. But almost every other week it'll give spots, not many. The only thing that ever varies for me is the watering scheduling (every 5 days-7 days) after 7 days it tends to be really parched for some reason. I have a ficus carica that demands replenish every 2-3 days so I'm thinking I really just need more fluid. Anyone else try any nutrient or watering schedules?

  • robin98
    6 years ago

    Look up a physiological condition called "oedema", it's more likely than a nutrient issue.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    That is caused by low humidity while the leaf is unfurling and/or erratic watering.


    Al

  • Shawn Pruitt
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I worked at a nursery that produced 40k+ of this ficus monthly, we had a problem with this in our stock, had multiple consultants look at it, none were definitive on any conclusion, saying a lot of the same as what I’m reading in these comments ie; oedema, virus, root rot/disease, broad mites, nutrient deficiencies, chemical toxicity... and so on, we sent samples off to multiple labs, both soil and tissue, took them to plant clinics, everything came back negative or normal. We were growing them in liners (72 cell pack trays) so my opinion is that they were just getting watered too unevenly, getting too dry then too wet and so on... still trying to figure this one out

  • Ailee Webb
    6 years ago

    The same thing has happened to my FLF, I'm currently trying to pinpoint what the cause could be.

    I received my plant as a gift in Oct 2017, and over the next 2 months it went bananas, almost doubling in size & new, gigantic leaves sprouting. My apartment has favourable conditions, North facing so gets plenty of non-direct sunlight, humid (it's also summer here in Australia atm). I water once a week, currently do not fertilise as the plant seemed to be doing well without. About a month ago I noticed there were 2 plants, so I decided to split the plants up and repot them. I used a mixture of the old soil and new potting mix, Osmocote premium potting mix.

    Since then, all the leaves that have sprouted on one of my plants have come out with these red spots. I have no idea why it's on one plant & not the other (the other has not sprouted any new shoots at all) I thought it could just be repotting shock, and hopefully the plant would get over it. But the most recent leaf that came out browned quickly and dropped off. My only other guess is it's the potting mix I used, I haven't changed my watering habit.


  • Ailee Webb
    6 years ago

    Here's another photo with the leaf that shriveled up & dropped off in my hand

    And here's my other plant, top leaves look a tiny bit too light & they haven't gotten any larger since repotting, but otherwise it seems fine? This one hasn't sprouted any new leaves though, so I'm waiting to see on both plants what the new leaves look like before trying anything.

  • jamieward520
    6 years ago

    Wow! I just read through every old and new post about the red spots on fiddle leaf figs. Exact same is happening to both of mine. Seems what is in common here, is it's happening to many of us who buy plant, bring home, and all new growth has red spots and smaller leaves?

    I have had mine for 8 months. I purchased two fiddle's from Hirts. In 8 months, some leaves are super small, some are large. All of red spots. The smaller the leaf, the red spots are more severe. If the leaf grows to normal size, red spots are not as obvious, however still there.

    Only all new leaves have this.

    This is so weird and I wish we all knew why this is happening. I love my plants, and I'm sure you all do too!

  • jamieward520
    6 years ago


    One more pic of my other fiddle leaf fig

  • jamieward520
    6 years ago

    Ok so while putting my plants under bright light, to take pictures, I noticed some white things on one of the deformed small leaf. When I wipe it, it doesn't really go away. And I only see it on one leaf. They don't appear to be alive or moving. Anyone know what this can be? Thank you

  • christopher868
    6 years ago

    Giving my two FLFs a shower helped with the spots and the plants moved on and are doing well. I didn't do a shower in a while, and recently saw some spots again so they just got their first rinse in a few months. I've never used my bathtub myself, but it's great with the handheld for bathing my plants! I try to use water that feels like room temperature and I get under the leaves too. You could also try setting your plants on trays of pebbles that you keep wet to provide a more humid environment. I get a bag of river rock at the local DIY place for $3. Much cheaper than a fancy shop and they good to me. You don't want to over water, but I understand the humidity is key so even just misting both side of the leaves will help. I did snip off a couple leaves at the start that were so small and spotted I didn't see the point of keeping them. Overall my FLF experience is good.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Glands are a normal part of the anatomy, and so far, their purpose is not
    fully understood. They used to be referred to as 'wax' glands, and occur in a high % of the plants in the Moraceae family, including mulberry. Newer literature refers to the gland as a phenolic gland, because of the heavy deposits of phenolic compounds in the glandular region. Any exudates (oozings) that originate in the near vicinity of the gland are probably latex and not related to the gland itself. They are typically found on the underside of the leaf near where the petiole (leaf stem) transitions to the central vein.

    Ficus often have other regularly spaced white dots inside and along leaf margins that are often misidentified as pests or glands. They are lithocysts that contain crystals of calcium carbonate or calcium oxylate called cystoliths.

    These are potential IDs - not enough info to be more exact.

    Al

  • wannerce
    6 years ago

    Hello,

    I have a similar issue but in a different location: faint, rusty blotches on the lower leaves of the tree near the base and down the midrib. I live in Chicago, and although the tree gets decent light, the living room gets down to low 60's overnight during cold spells (pics below).

    I purchased this tree last August and cannot re-pot for several months so wondering if this is due to cold temps or watering issues/retentive soil? I did notice a few scale on the underside of a few leaves when i brought it home, which i removed. I also thoroughly sprayed the tree with a solution of 50% alcohol and 50% water with the hopes of preventing any other lurking infestation....could that be the culprit?

    The nursery where i bought it told me that i should thoroughly water the soil and let it drain/dry out (rather than watering in "sips") but i was cautious of this knowing that the soil is not ideal for such regimen (it's in a plastic 14" pot with four holes around the perimeter). However, i reluctantly saturated the soil a few times this summer/fall and concerned it has resulted in root rot (as it definitely resulted in gnats!) I have since allowed the soil to completely dry between waterings, which takes 10 days or so and use the dowel method to confirm.

    I've lost a few leaves over the winter but most of them were at the bottom, so it didn't really alarm me.

    Any idea what this is or what i can do to prevent it for worsening?




  • wannerce
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I forgot to mention that although the nursery told me not to fertilize for at least a year i decided to do a light dose of Foliage Pro 9-3-6 the last watering (the issue started months before then).

  • Laura Elizabeth
    6 years ago

    Someone mentioned mites before. I just watch this video on mealy bugs. I dont think this is what causing the red blotches but I think it might solve some people who have a bug problem. Its kind of a sad video if you have an investation....


  • Laura Elizabeth
    6 years ago

    or maybe it is anthracnose


  • kathleensmalley
    5 years ago

    I have the same exact issue. Had my plant about four months and had several perfect new leaves come out. Now I have two that are riddled with this mottling. It is in an east window and gets a lot of sun in the morning. I'm in Houston so we've got the AC on already and set at a steady 73 degrees and Houston is very humid. I repotted the plant when I first purchased it doubling the size of pot, used good potting soil and water it once a week. I put a couple of Miracle row fertilizer spikes in the soil. I keep a water metering stake in the plant and except for when I first water it, it stays pretty much right on the line between dry and wet. I haven't seen any white bugs but I'll try the 50/50 alcohol trick. I do have tiny black knatty kinds of bugs that crawl around the dirt and fly around the room. Pretty obnoxious. If anyone has any advice for me, I'm listening. I have wanted one of these plants for more than 20 years and don't want to lose this one.

  • christopher868
    5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Water when the top inch of dirt feels dry, not once a week. It can vary. Gnats suggest the soil is too wet and/or has too much decaying debris. Fiddle leaf figs require bright light, not direct sun. As for the spider mites /little red dots, I've had good luck with putting mine in the shower (maybe every two months) when they are close to needing water and I carefully rinse the leaves using water that isn't too cold, more like rain in the summertime. Spider mites like it dry, and the shower seems to rinse them away vs. misting alone.

  • kathleensmalley
    5 years ago

    Thanks for your reply. I'll add some blinds to the window to manage the direct light, I was concerned that it might be too much. I can't begin to lift the pot and plant so it won't be traveling to the shower but I'll keep an eye out for the mites and revise my watering habit. Thanks a lot!

  • christopher868
    5 years ago

    I was thinking you might have a big plant, all the more reason not to let it die given what they cost. I think the new leaves are the most vulnerable to mites. Try to figure out a way to gently rinse away the mites...you might need an extra hand to hold a bucket to catch excess water or use some old towel. I've found that if I help the new leaves in the beginning they thrive and get past the delicate phase faster. If you want to see if it is mites, just brush and shake some material from the area onto a sheet of white paper. You will think it's just specks of dirt or dust, and then after 20 seconds the dust starts moving LOL. I know you have a challenge, but for me the plant showers made all the difference during growing times, which is usually right after I repot.


  • Christina Clark
    5 years ago

    Spider Mites!

  • Ace L
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    I have the same problem too. I don’t know if it is edema or caused by insects. I just recently bought a plant from costa farms. Here is the picture.


  • Living Duncan
    3 years ago

    I just had a fiddle leaf arrive from Bloomscape with the top leaves in the same condition you are speaking to. Are you all cutting off the damaged leaves or leaving them?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    3 years ago

    Not sure if the poster you addressed will reply, given his post is a year old. His images appear to be symptomatic of the physiological disorder, oedema - see below. Given your issue is in the upper (youngest) leaves, it might not be the same. It's not unusual for leaves of F. lyrata to emerge with pinhead or slightly smaller size dots covering the leaf surface nearly entirely. This often occurs when the air is dry, as it usually is in winter or when air conditioning is operating for days on end. That particular condition is simply expression of the purple pigment anthocyanin, and it will fade as the leaves mature.

    That's said w/o my being able to see an image of what you're describing, which would be very helpful.

    Oedema

    Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves.

    Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady.

    Some things that can help you prevent oedema:

    * Increase light levels and temperature

    * Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems.

    * Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity.

    * Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil.

    * Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants.

    Questions?

    Al

  • HU-275775596
    3 years ago

    My fiddle is doing the same but I noticed what looks like root aphids after topping the soil with worm castings, any experience with this and how to get rid of them? I don't want to repot again since it's only been a few months if that since

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    3 years ago

    If you bought your worm castings, you can be sure they make up far less than 100% of the of the product, the rest is filler, so who knows what the filler might be? In order to make the product appealing to the eye, you know it will be something that makes the buyer think, "This looks really good for plants". In that mixture of worm castings and filler, there are probably innumerable FG eggs or larvae in various stages of development.

    Even if you used your own worm castings and know them to be 100% real, they're still attractive to gnats because they contain plenty of partially digested organic material; and, there is nothing in worm castings that can't be found in a high quality synthetic fertilizer like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. If I had access to an unlimited supply of 100% worm castings from worms certified as thoroughbred poop machines, I'd use them in the landscape only. When I make a container medium, I focus only on the soil's structure. I make sure it holds plenty of air, enough water to ensure 3-5 day watering intervals, and is structurally sound. I leave the worm castings out of my media because they feed the microbiota (including gnat larvae) that break down soils so they end up being far too muddy to suit me.

    Often, simply allowing your soil to dry to a degree more appropriate than your watering intervals are allowing is enough to bring them under control. Certainly, changing to a more open medium (better aeration), so the top of the soil dries faster, is your best bet. You can also use yellow sticky traps, or a 50/50 mix of water and vinegar with a drop of dishsoap per ounce in a shallow dish placed on the plant's soil or very near affected plants.

    Al

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