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wpark2419

Baby rubber plant leaves turning brown

wpark2419
9 years ago

I have a baby rubber plant that was outgrowing it's pot so I repotted it. About 2 weeks later I noticed there's brown spots/blotches on some of the leaves and a few of them have fallen off. The plant has always been healthy and nothing has changed other than being repotted. I think the brown is spreading to other leaves now too. Anyone know what it is or what I can do?

Comments (12)

  • wpark2419
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Here's another photo

  • asleep_in_the_garden
    9 years ago

    cercospora leaf spot?

    I'm a novice at this,but others here should know more.

    It's a wild stab at it,though.

    *Edited to throw up a link

    Here is a link that might be useful: where I found that info

    This post was edited by asleep_in_the_garden on Mon, May 5, 14 at 14:18

  • wpark2419
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the help. I looked at your link and I don't think that's what it is...the bottom of the leaves are green and have no signs of any problem. Maybe as it gets worse it will show up on the bottom.

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    9 years ago

    Peperomia I'd say. Whether that or Ficus, it would need to dry well if that soil is as dense/airless as it looks in this pic. How long has it been in the same pot? Does the pot have a hole in the bottom?

    IDK about the 1st pic but the 2nd looks like sunburn. Is what's seen in the 1st pic changing/spreading? Kind of looks like something that happened a while back. Maybe some cleaning stuff got sprinkled accidentally on leaves?

  • wpark2419
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    The soil is miracle grow moisture control potting soil. The pot has drainage holes and a tray under it. It's not sitting in water. The location hasn't changed. Whatever is on the leaves is spreading, it's not sun damaged.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    Oedema ....

    Al

  • pirate_girl
    9 years ago

    I'm gonna guess the poster has no idea what that is.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    An explanation is only a quick search away. ;-) Ever notice that when you look something up, you almost always learn more than just what you were looking for?

    Water pressure in plants can become so high that cells rupture or the cell contents leak into inter-cellular spaces - oedema. Usually oedema is driven by over-watering, but cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively be secondary contributors. Initially you'll notice wet or weepy areas on the foliage, which gradually turn corky/ scaly/ ridged.

    The easiest way to get your watering under control is by adopting a soil that makes it really hard to over-water. Appropriate soils makes keeping your plants healthy a lot easier than when you have to fight your soil for control of your plants' vitality.

    Al

  • wpark2419
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks so much! I'm glad it's not some disease. Now, for fixing it...would you recommend I water less, or do I need to take it out of the pot and add something to the soil? It is currently in miracle grow moisture control potting soil. Also, should I cut off the worst of the affected leaves?

    This post was edited by wpark2419 on Wed, May 7, 14 at 10:45

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    The 3 best things you could do for your plant are A) Get it into an appropriate soil at an appropriate time. I don't know where you live, but in the US that would vary from late May to Early July. You can devise a plan based on the plant's natural (seasonal) rhythms, so you'll be working with the plant instead of against it. B) Get the plant outdoors as soon as night temps are reliably above 55*. C) Get started on a nutritional supplementation program, using a good fertilizer with an appropriate NPK ratio. RATIO is different than the NPK %s, and more important.

    If you remove leaves, remember that you're removing the factories that provide the plants only true food. Plant food is the carbohydrates manufactured during photosynthesis, so reducing its leaf surface area reduces it's food supply. If you're going to partially defoliate, make sure the plant is at least in good health and stable or gaining vitality. Even though the leave's appearance is spoiled, the leaves are still able to carry on photosynthesis. Chemical messengers will tell the plant when the leaves are net USERS of energy instead of net producers. If that occurs, the plant will shed the parts that are taxing the plant.

    You might find the link below to be of some interest. It will help you avoid almost all the common pitfalls encountered by growers relying mainly on trial and error, or the advertising promises on products aimed at the gardening community.

    Al

    Here is a link that might be useful: An overview - if you click me.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago

    The 3 best things you could do for your plant are A) Get it into an appropriate soil at an appropriate time. I don't know where you live, but in the US that would vary from late May to Early July. You can devise a plan based on the plant's natural (seasonal) rhythms, so you'll be working with the plant instead of against it. B) Get the plant outdoors as soon as night temps are reliably above 55*. C) Get started on a nutritional supplementation program, using a good fertilizer with an appropriate NPK ratio. RATIO is different than the NPK %s, and more important.

    If you remove leaves, remember that you're removing the factories that provide the plants only true food. Plant food is the carbohydrates manufactured during photosynthesis, so reducing its leaf surface area reduces it's food supply. If you're going to partially defoliate, make sure the plant is at least in good health and stable or gaining vitality. Even though the leave's appearance is spoiled, the leaves are still able to carry on photosynthesis. Chemical messengers will tell the plant when the leaves are net USERS of energy instead of net producers. If that occurs, the plant will shed the parts that are taxing the plant.

    You might find the link below to be of some interest. It will help you avoid almost all the common pitfalls encountered by growers relying mainly on trial and error, or the advertising promises on products aimed at the gardening community.

    Al

    Here is a link that might be useful: An overview - if you click me.

  • wpark2419
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thank you very much for the information, I appreciate it!

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