In short, I'm not here to reinforce what you don't have to do; rather, I'm here to help you get more from your container gardening experience by helping you learn how to give your trees the best shot at growing to their potential by helping you reduce or eliminate factors that are limiting to growth and vitality.

From the family: Moracea (relative of mulberry)

Native: India, other tropical - subtropical regions

The Ficus genus
with more than 800 known species, is undoubtedly an extremely popular choice as a containerized tree. It tolerates the "dryer than desert" conditions actually found in many or most centrally heated homes reasonably well, and is endowed with a natural genetic vigor that makes it easy to grow. There is however, much myth and misconception regarding the care of this plant and the reasons it reacts as it does to certain cultural conditions. I would like to talk a little about the plant and then offer some specific information regarding its culture. I will primarily address Ficus benjamina - the 'weeping fig', but the commonly grown Ficus elastica - rubber tree, has the same cultural preferences. In fact, we can virtually lump all the Ficus species commonly grown as houseplants into a single group in all areas except light preferences. We need to make allowances for some of the fig species that won't tolerate direct sun as well as benjamina and elastica, and we may as well expand that exception to the variegated cultivars of benjamina and elastica as well.

Ficus benjamina
is one of the species of Ficus commonly referred to as a strangler fig. It often begins its life in duff, in the crotch of a tree, or high on a branch as a seed deposited in the droppings of a bird or other tree-dwelling animal. After the seed germinates and as it grows, it produces thin aerial roots that often dangle in the moist air or attach themselves to the host trunk, while gaining nutrients and moisture from the air, leaf litter, and the bark of the supporting tree. It does not actually parasitize the plant it grows on, it only uses it as support. This relationship is termed epiphytic, or the tree an epiphyte. Those familiar with the culture of orchids and bromeliads will recognize this term.

After the aerial roots have formed and extended, and when they finally reach the ground, the tree begins a tremendous growth spurt, sending out more roots and developing a dense canopy that eventually shades out the supporting tree at the same time the roots are competing for nutrients in the soil and compressing the trunk and branches of the support tree to the point of stopping sap flow. Eventually the supporting tree dies and all that is left where it once stood, is a hollow cavity in the dangling Ficus roots that have now thickened and self-grafted to become the trunk. It is easy to see how many of the trees in the Ficus genus have come to be called by the name 'strangler figs'.

Roots and soil
The roots of some Ficus species are so powerful they can destroy concrete buildings or buckle roads, and can be measured in miles as they extend underground in search of water. When we consider the young tree and its ability to obtain sufficient moisture from just the surrounding air and bark surface of the support tree by way of aerial roots, we can draw an important conclusion: All species of Ficus prefer well-aerated and fast draining soils. In this regard, they are actually no different than any other tree you would endeavor to grow in a container, so try always to use a soil that guarantees an ample volume of air in the soil and excellent drainage for the intended interval between repots. This can be accomplished by using a soil whose primary fraction is comprised of large particles (like pine bark) combined with ample volumes of perlite or other inorganic ingredients like Turface, pumice, Haydite, crushed granite, or others. I grow all my Ficus in a soil mix consisting of equal parts of pine or fir bark, Turface (a calcined clay product), and Gran-I-Grit (crushed and screened granite). To be fair, I will add a qualifier here: the cost of the potential for superior growth and added vitality when using these fast (draining) well-aerated soils comes in the form of you needing to be prepared to water more frequently as the soil particle size increases. Roots are the heart of the plant, and the rest of the plant can do nothing without the roots' OK - the top just THINKS it's in control. Take care of the roots, and if your other cultural conditions are favorable, your plants will thrive.

Before I go on
I would like to say there is a very important relationship between your choice of soil, your watering habits, and a very common and serious problem that too often goes completely undiagnosed. That problem is a high level of soluble salts in the soil. When we choose soils that hold water for extended periods, we put our trees at risk for the fungal infections that cause root rot. Reasoning tells us that to avoid the root rot issue, we should not water to the point of soil saturation; rather, we often feel that watering in sips to avoid the specter of root rot is the wise alternative. This strategy though, puts us squarely on the horns of a dilemma. If we don't/can't water copiously on a regular basis, the soluble salts, i.e.,all the dissolved solids in our tap water and fertilizer solution accumulate in the soil. As the level of salts in the soil increases, the plant finds it increasingly difficult to absorb water and the nutrients dissolved in water. If the salt level gets too high, it can actually 'pull' water OUT of cells in exactly the same fashion that curing salt 'pulls' moisture from ham or bacon. This 'reverse osmosis' causes plasma to be torn from the walls of cells as they collapse, killing cells and tissue. The technical term for this is plasmolysis, but we more commonly refer to it as fertilizer burn. Fertilizer burn can occur whether or not we use fertilizer. The salts in our tap water alone, can/will eventually build to the point where water uptake is impossible, unless we actively take precautions.

Your soil is the foundation of every conventional container planting, and your choice of soils probably has a greater impact on your effort:reward quotient than any other single factor. Please take a moment to learn more about soils. My experience has shown that understanding how soils work and how to tell the difference between a good and a not so good soil is probably the single largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. Find more about soils here.

Watering
Ficus b. will tolerate dry soil quite well. Allowing the soil to completely dry; however, will result in undue drought stress and accompanying leaf loss, an expensive affair, considering the plant will call heavily upon energy reserves to replace lost foliage - reserves that might better have been directed to other functions and growth. If you wait just until the soil feels dry to the touch at the drain hole before watering, your tree will be free from the effects of drought stress. Soils feel dry to the touch when their moisture content is somewhere between 40-45%, but Ficus can still extract water from soils until moisture content drops to about 25-30%, giving you a 10-15% cush AFTER the soil feels dry. Use a finger or a sharpened wooden dowel stuck deep into the soil to check for moisture content. A wooden skewer or chopstick used in similar fashion is also a useful tool, and feeling the soil at the drain hole and withholding water until it feels dry there, is also a good way to judge. Water meters are rather ineffective, They actually measure EC (electrical conductivity). To illustrate: Insert a clean probe into a cup of distilled water. It will read 'DRY'. Add a little table salt of fertilizer, it will read 'WET'.

Though I try never to water my Ficus with cold water, I have never been able to verify that cold water has any negative impact on our houseplants ..... and I've asked a good number of horticulture's upper crust about any potentially negative effects, always receiving a shrug. The best way to water your Ficus it to apply water slowly until you estimate the soil is almost wet enough that water is about to appear at the drain hole. Wait a few minutes and water again so at least 10-15% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain. The first watering dissolves accumulated salts in the soil and allows them to go into solution. The second watering carries them out of the container. We already illustrated the importance of using a soil that allows us to water in such a manner without having to worry abut root rot. If you feel you cannot water in this manner without risking lengthy soil saturation and the possibility of root rot, your soil is probably inappropriate for the plant. Lest anyone complain at that observation, I would point out there is a difference between the growth and vitality of plants that are only tolerating a soil vs. the same traits in plants that appreciate (thrive in) a medium with superior properties.

More about soils as questions arise .... please ask!

Light
Although many Ficus begin life as an understory tree and are generally quite shade tolerant, most actually spend their life struggling through the shaded understory until they eventually reach the forest canopy, where they finally find full sun and can begin to come into their own. We should give Ficus all the sun they will tolerate. I grow all varieties of Ficus b. in full sun, and they tolerate it well - even some of the newer cultivars that are supposed to be extremely shade-tolerant.

I have often read anecdotal assertions that Ficus b defoliates at the slightest change in light levels (or temperature). I have found this to be only partly true. Any trees I have moved from a location with a lower light level to a brighter location have not suffered leaf loss (abscission). Instead, they have rewarded me with more robust growth and back-budding. If the change is reversed, so the tree is moved from high irradiance levels to a dimmer location, leaf loss is probable, but even then it depends on both the suddenness of the change and the difference between the two light levels. It might be interesting to note that trees that are being grown out, or allowed to grow unpruned, are most likely to suffer loss of interior leaves when light levels are reduced. Trees in bonsai culture, or properly pruned trees where thinning has occurred to allow more light to the trees interior are less affected.

Indoor supplemental lighting is a broad subject, but if you have the ability to provide it, your trees will definitely show their appreciation. Brighter light = smaller leaf size, shorter internodes, and superior ramification (finer branching), not to mention a marked increase in overall mass.

Temperature
Expect the most robust growth characteristics when the plant is kept in a temperature range between 60-80* F. Actual root temperatures above 90-95* should be avoided because they impair root function/metabolism and slow or stop growth. Temperatures below 55* should also be avoided for several reasons. They slow photosynthesis to the degree that the plant will necessarily call on stored energy reserves to power metabolism and keep its systems orderly. This essentially puts the tree on 'battery power' - running on its energy reserves. After exposure to chill and subsequent return to more favorable temperatures, the plant does not quickly recover the ability to carry on normal photosynthesis. The time needed for the plant to recover its normal photosynthesizing ability is more appropriately measured in days, than hours. Leaf loss can also occur as a result of exposure to chill, particularly sudden chill.

It is prudent to select a location free from cold breezes for your tree. Even short exposure to very cold draughts can cause leaves to abscise (fall/shed). The cool temperatures slow or halt the flow of auxin (a growth regulator - hormone) across the abscission zone at the base of each leaf petiole (stem) which allows an abscission layer to form and causes leaves to fall. Chill also stimulates an increase in abscissic acid (also a growth regulator - hormone) which is also a player in leaf loss.

Benjamina can tolerate temperatures as low as the mid-30s for brief periods if the exposure to chill is gradual, but it should be noted that even though there may not be any readily visible impact on the tree, the tree will always be in decline at temperatures below about 55* because of the impact on the tree's inability to carry on efficient photosynthesis. Sudden and large temperature drops can cause varying degrees of chill injury in the plant, caused by phenolic compounds leaking from cells, which shows up looking much like freeze damage. Severe injury could occur in plants that were growing at 80-85* and were subjected to sudden chilling to temperatures as high as 45-50*

Humidity
Benjamina's thick, leathery leaves with waxy cuticles help to limit moisture loss, making the plant suitable to a wide range of indoor humidity levels, even though it prefers humidity levels above 50%. When humidity levels are blamed for leaf loss or necrotic leaf tips and margins, it is likely the blame has been misplaced. Those pesky high salt levels in soils, most common in late winter, can make it difficult and in extreme cases impossible for the plant to absorb water to replace that being lost to the air through transpiration. The fast soils that allow copious watering, which flushes the soil of salts regularly are actually much more important/beneficial than maintaining ultra high humidity levels. Misting is very effective ..... For about 30 seconds. Forget the misting please, it is ineffective. For small plants, a humidity tray may marginally effective.

Fertilizer
I prefer any 3:1:2 ratio soluble fertilizer like Miracle-Gro 24-8-16 or 12-4-8, and I especially like Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, because it provides all the essential nutrients in the approximate ratio the plant will use and in favorable ratios to each other. Alternately, a 1:1:1 ratio fertilizer like MG 20-20-20 is suitable. Because I use fast soils, I can fertilize at very low doses, every time I water. How YOU can/should fertilize is something we should discuss. It can change by season, and also varies based on soil choice and watering habits.

There is no question that in addition to offering greater potential for growth and vitality within the limits of other cultural factors, fast draining, well-aerated soils also get the nod for greatly increasing the grower�s margin for error in the areas of watering and fertilizing.

Defoliating
Leaf loss in Ficus is probably the cause of more conjecture than any other aspect of its culture, so even though I have mentioned it above, I will reiterate. Even though it is widely held that Ficus b. defoliates at virtually any cultural change, with changes in light and temperature most often cited, it is not so. The plant tends to defoliate when there is a fairly abrupt change in light levels - from bright to dim, or after exposure to sudden chill, but the plant does not tend to defoliate when the cultural conditions of light and temperature move from unfavorable to favorable, i.e. from dim to bright or from cool to warm/appropriate - unless the change is markedly radical.

Repotting
First, I draw a major distinction between potting-up and repotting. Potting up can be undertaken at any time. It involves moving the plant to a slightly larger pot and back-filling with fresh soil, with a minimal amount of root disturbance. Much to be preferred to potting-up, is repotting. Repotting, which has a substantial rejuvenating effect, includes removing all or almost all of the old (spent) soil and selective root-pruning. It is by far the preferred method and probably the most important step in insuring your trees always grow at as close to their potential genetic vigor as possible. Repotting as opposed to potting-up is the primary reason bonsai trees are able to live in small containers for hundreds of years while the vast majority of trees grown as houseplants are lucky to survive more than 5 years without root work

It is pretty much universally accepted among nurserymen, that you should pot up at or before the time where the condition of the roots/soil mass is such that the roots and soil can be lifted from the container intact. Much testing has been done to show that trees left to languish beyond this point will have growth and vitality permanently affected. Even when planted out, growth and longevity of trees allowed to progress beyond this point is shown to be reduced.

The ideal time to repot a Ficus, is when the plant has good vitality and in the month prior to its most robust growth. June and July are prime months for most of the US. HOW to properly repot is beyond the scope of the initial post, but I am sure the subject will be covered in detail as questions arise.

Remember - potting up a root bound plant is a stopgap fix, and ensures the plant has no opportunity to grow to its genetic potential within the limits of other cultural factors; while fully repotting, which includes a change of soil and root pruning, ensures the plant WILL have the opportunity within the limits of other cultural factors. Strong words, but to repeat the illustration: the bonsai tree is capable of living in a tiny pot, perfectly happy for hundreds of years, while we struggle to squeeze 5 years of good vitality from a root bound plant - root work being the difference.

Pests
Ficus trees suffer from some pests. Most common are scale, followed closely by mites and mealies. I have always had good luck with neem oil as a preventative and fixative. We can discuss infestations and treatment as it arises, but so it gets included in the original post, I use only pure, cold-pressed neem oil, such as that packaged by Dyna-Gro in the black and white container. The beneficial active ingredient in neem is azadirachtin, the effectiveness of which is greatly reduced by steam and alcohol extraction methods, which brings us full circle to why I use the cold-pressed product.

Oedema can sometimes be an issue as well;. Suspect it if you see corky patches on the leaves, usually preceded by wet, bumpy patches that usually go unnoticed.

This is a long post, and took a long time to compose. I hope it answers most of your questions, but somehow, I cannot help but hope there are a few lingering that you would like to ask or points you would like to have clarified. It is great fun visiting and helping people who are devoted about improving their abilities to provide for their trees.

Best luck.

Al

Here is a link to the previous thread, which is packed with good information.

Additionally, you can find more detailed information about tending trees in containers for the long term here.

I'll leave the link to more information about container soils again - because it's soo important.

I truly hope you have found some value in this offering. Thanks for reading to the end.

Al

The tree is over 10 years old, and when I, GG, moved back into a particular house share in 2008 the tree was still here (I'd moved out in 1999) and looking very poorly. It then suffered a total soil collapse and subsequently lost all of its leaves. When I repotted, it had virtually no roots - I am not exaggerating! - below the soil line, it looked like a stick, with a few small roots sticking out.

Here is a photo taken after that repot and some recovery time :

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

I gave it another year (or maybe 2?) lots of light and some time outdoors:

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

Then I repotted it, because it was waaaay over-potted & I had put a few other plants (Schefflera, Dracaena) into 5.1.1. mix a year previous & was very happy with the results, as were my plants. I found it actually had grown some roots:

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

I did a light root prune, then a few months later I pruned the top pretty hard:

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

That was last year. Since the root mass still wasn't much, but the tree needed a good-size pot since it was so top heavy, I put large rocks in the bottom of the pot.

This year I plan to repot and remove the rocks, do some root pruning & change the planting angle of the tree to get it going in a more upright direction. The spread of the branches is now about 4' which is just too much - the tree looks like it wants to hug you.

I plan for it to eventually look something like this:

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

Al gave me some root pruning advice on the previous thread and suggested that the large limb be removed at once, so the reduced roots could support the tree.

Just for reference, this is the limb that will become the new leader on the re-oriented tree:

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

Al was asking at the end of the last thread (I'm paraphrasing) "Weren't you just messing about with this tree?" and I am posting to say Yes, I was fussing with it last summer, but I need to get it to a more manageable size, and get the rocks out of the pot...

Well, thanks for reading my windy post!
There is lots of great advice about Ficus on the previous threads, and there is sure to be much more on this thread - Thanks Al!

GB

But after a ton of reading about Al's gritty mix (for my succulents), I simultaneously happened to see a fiddle leaf fig in restaurant and became obsessed. I broke down and bought one, a 3 gallon for $29 (decent price?), and potted it in the gritty mix last weekend.

It lives in a 7 gallon pot right near a floor-to-ceiling window that gets maybe 90minutes of direct late evening sun, and tons of bright indirect. Previously, in the nursery, it was in the warm, humid, shade-clothed greenhouse.

When potting, I hosed off the entirety of the old soil and trimmed maybe 3-4 of the 12 inches of roots before adding it to the gritty mix.

Since then, I have watered it twice, the second time was very thorough and contained a weak solution of Foilage Pro. (too early?)

Two of the three trunks/stems seems to be doing quite well, with shiny leaves and they look healthy. The third has leaves that are on the dull side, and the leaves are not 'standing upright', if that makes sense. One of the bottom most leaves just fell off with a light bump, and the surrounding ones seem ready to do the same.

Here are some pictures:

Here are the two best looking trunk/stems, left and right in this photo:

Slightly different view, with the worrisome trunk on the far right. Also, my mini Aussie, and a good shot of the gritty mix :)

Moving in the same direction, with the worrisome branch now in the center of the photo. Also, the new leaf of the otherwise fairly healthy left branch is floppy, is that normal? I am completely new to these plants.:

Top view of floppy leaf:

Dull saggy leaves on worrisome branch:

Any help or answers to my (embedded) questions would be greatly appreciated, as I am brand new to growing trees indoors, and do not know if this is normal, worrisome, or somewhere in between.

Thanks!

CG - There isn't much you can do about it if your cultural conditions are already appropriate. I usually fertilize about 2-3 weeks post repotting - don't know how that squares with your timing, but it can't be too far off. It's not unusual for new leaves to appear misshapen at first - often sort of like an emerging butterfly's wings.

It is best to try to avoid 2 distinctly different soils in the same container - it can create problems watering effectively. It sounds like you didn't bare-root the plant, and you have the old root mass with the old soil in the middle of the gritty mix?

It's hard to say what might have caused the leaf loss. It may well be related to something cultural that affected the plant before you even got it. I'd just be patient & wait it out. Be sure that if the roots are all near the top of the soil that you water often in the beginning. If they're situated deep into the soil, then be careful not to over-water. It sounds like everything should be ok, except for that dissimilar soil thing that might be a concern.

Al

First of all, thank you for all of your posts. I have been pouring over them recently and have learned so much. It's so rare to have someone so knowledgeable be as kind and generous as you are, without a hint of arrogance or elitism.

With the gritty mix, I am excited that I will be able to have some cool houseplants without worrying about their survival, nor bringing in bugs that thrive in the standard MG soil I was using. It's kind of ironic how much the bugs like it, but the plants kind of hate it..

But I digress...

I wasn't clear enough in my rambling, original post :) I DID bare-root the tree, using a hose and my hands to do so.

It may just be a sense of 'new plant anxiety' on my part, and maybe a little on the plants'! This is a new soil for me, new plant genre, and a more aggressive root 'baring' and root trimming than I am used to, so I will give it some time to acclimate.

Two more semi-related questions for you if you don't mind:

1) Is it normal for the 'cover' (for lack of a better term that I do not know) that a new leaf emerges from to be dark, almost black and almost crunchy feeling?

2) I would like it eventually to have a typical tree shape, with maybe 3ft of bare trunk, and then a nice, roundish top. After waiting for new growth after my recent repot, where would I go about pruning? If you have already discussed this, and I just missed it in my recent searches of your posts, please just link me to save yourself some time :)

Thanks again!

1) Common to plants in the family Moraceae, which includes Morus (mulberry) as well as Ficus, is a stipular cap that covers emerging buds. I guess we can assume that it's function would be to protect the new bud in some way, though I'm not exactly sure if that's the whole story, or if it's even accurate. I've never looked into the 'what does it do' part. As the petiole (leaf stem) elongates, the stipular cap is separated from the stem, and quickly dries up and abscises; so 'brown/black/crispy' are no cause for concern ...... but brown/black/crispy terminal buds are an indication of a serious cultural issue.

Most houseplant growers don't have a vision for their plants. They go where the plant takes them instead of leading. I don't say that in a critical way, it's just that they haven't acquired the vision needed to imagine what the plant might look like in years to come. To be fair, our perspectives are divergent. Grower A might be more interested in having a plant fill a space and accessorize a room. As long as it looks good, that grower is happy, but may or may not want to put much effort into maintaining the plant. Grower B gets the most satisfaction from the nurturing part. I think this type of grower is the one who would be most interested in planning for a plants future, and willing to forgo the constant need for the plant to be at it's best, given what there currently is to work with - a tendency probably seen more often in grower A.

I tend to always consider the health and well-being of the plant first, with my own convenience of little consideration. Also, bonsai has given me the sort of vision that allows me to think about what affect what we do today will have on the plants future, immediate and distant. So, I understand the grower that doesn't want to have a tree made ugly today so it can be beautiful in a year, as well as the grower who has the patience and vision to work toward a future goal.

Crossed perspectives are the source of a lot of disagreement. The gritty mix is a prime example. You and I recognize the added potential for a healthy root system, which means a healthier plant, while another grower might be dead against it because you have to go through the effort to make the soil and water a little more frequently ..... Root pruning is another. One grower thinks the decline associated with tight roots should be accepted as an inherent part of maintaining plants over the long term, where that doesn't fit well with a grower who wishes to offer their plants the best opportunity to grow to their potential. It's easy to accept either perspective, but a perspective doesn't change how plants react to root congestion. You either live with the problem until the plant needs to be tossed, or you fix it and go forward indefinitely.

OK - back to your tree shape .... A typical tree shape commonly has some movement in the trunk, sometimes a lot of movement. Don't be in a hurry to prune everything off the lower trunk and start building your tree today. Everything you leave on the lower trunk for the time being will thicken it and strengthen it. Select one branch as your leader. That leader should be centered over where the trunk goes into the soil at a point that is 2/3 of the ht you want the tree to be maintained at. The top 1/3 of the ht will be your branching. It's fine, if you let the main leader grow much taller than you want the tree to be in the end. You can chop it later, like Rina is going to do today or tomo. If you want 3 ft of bare trunk, proportionately, your tree will look best in the 4.5 - 5" ht range.

Any other questions?

Al

In reference to your post from last night, I checked the tree and the roots are close to the top, with one small one (4-5inches and thin) actually not fully under the soil line, and therefore dried up. I would hypothesize that this could be a contributing factor to losing a couple leaves and others not being quite as springy. With this in mind, I will make it a point to water more often in the beginning.

As for the shape, and your description of two growers, I like to think I am closer to grower B, as long as the pruning doesn't leave it so unsightly that my wife hates it :) She tolerates my plant hobby/addiction in part because most things are pretty and attractive so I have to keep that in mind.

As for now though, it seems like I just want to let the tree acclimate and grow full and strong before I do any pruning.

In reference to your comment about selecting a 'leader', you said to choose a branch. Do you mean one of the three 'trunks' that make up my tree? (Which I am guessing was started by sticking three cuttings into one pot and letting it grow and get the roots intertwined, which you had a term for in another post, but I cannot recall right now.) I just want to make sure that I am using the correct terminology here.

Thank you again!

Al, I truly appreciate your knowledge that you are sharing with me/us. I have stalked these forums for a couple years now, and take your posts to be the most useful and informative.

I will head out tomorrow on the hunt for the gritty mix ingredients. I'm in the Greater Lafayette, Indiana, area, so my selections are few. I checked out my local nursery/greenhouse today, and what they have is extremely limited. (Although, I think I picked-up a silver dollar jade in need of TLC!)

Al, yes, I can make it to the Chicago area--I've got a sister-in-law in Andersonville, so I can either make it there, or ask her to accept things on my behalf. She's a crazy home--apartment--gardener, too, with a Ficus e. that I'd kill for! Otherwise, if the Andersonville area is too out-of-the-way, and you will be in the Chicago area come August, just let me know where/when, and I can make it. I don't start work until the 27th, so I'm free before that.

I've got some options as far as companies around here go--but I'm thinking pine/fir bark may be had at pet stores, and the crushed granite at my local farm store. (Otherwise, we've got brick/stone suppliers around here--maybe they'd have it??) Turface? Well, I think I can order via Amazon, or at worst, go to our local NAPA store for Floor-Dry.

I've already ordered the Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 and some Neem via Amazon, as my outdoor plants have some bugs on them. Not sure if they are pests, or just hanging out; but I'd like to start preventative measures all the same. No webs or bulges, calluses, etc.

So, tomorrow, I will be looking for the following:

--Uncomposted Pine or Fir bark (1/8"-1/4") OR Reptile Bark at my local pet shop
--Screened Turface (OR NAPA Floor-Dry)
--Crushed granite (Gran-I-Grit, OR Manna Pro Poultry Grit)
--Perlite??
--Spring clamps, to help hold up my weaker jades/Ficus

Should this do me? I saw in another forum post you (Al) recommended pruning after Father's day, which is coming up, this Sunday.

Should I repot--not pot-up--but repot in the gritty mix and let be? Or should I repot into the gritty mix and also root-prune and cut-back?

Thank you so much for y'all's help--I can't imagine doing this without it.

It took me about 10 phone calls until I smartened up and used Walmart.com, entered in 'Timberline Pine Mulch' (make sure it's the purple bag, not the nuggets), and found a store about 15 minutes away that carried it. From all the research I've done, it seems that once screened its very suitable (and more importantly, Al approved!) for the gritty mix.

After picking up two huge bags for $5.68 total, I felt kind of silly for paying $20 for half of that amount of reptibark for my first gritty mix try two weeks ago. This will drastically cut down the total price of the mix and I'll no longer have to decide which of my plants are 'worth it' :)

Thanks for the tip! I'll check it out.

Sorry about the description I offered for a single-trunked tree. For the most natural look, work toward your tree having the thickest trunk as the tallest. The other 2 trees, in order of trunk thickness, should be about 2/3 and 1/3-1/2 the ht of the tallest trunk - unless you have another vision for the plant ......

Anne - thanks for the kind compliment. ;-)

I've been super busy the last few days, but I'll see what I can come up with later tonight, insofar as seeing that you get the ingredients you need. I may not be able to Andersonville while I'm in CHI because of commitments while there, but if you could meet me somewhere S of CHI, I could bring what you need if you don't find it - we'll work on that.

I just found out that Oak-Hill Gardens (Dundee) is moving to Madison. ;-( Which is going to be a real pain for me. I'll prolly have to start looking for another source of bark closer to home. TTYL

Al

Looking at the size of the granite grit, the expanded clay balls I have may be too big as well. So, I'll pick up a bag of the floor dry stuff and just wear a medical mask while dealing with it! (It scares me.)

I'm late for work, or I'd look up a Turface distributor near you. Try the locator at the link below. Also, check your phone book for John Deere Landscapes dealers near you. They should have it.

Al

I found what I believe to be acceptable-sized fir bark and, I was able to find a floor dry product (the nearest John Deer is down in Indy).

Here's a picture of the mix, equal parts Fir bark, granite, Turface-like product. I also received my order of cold-pressed Neem oil and the recommended fertilizer, Foliage Pro 9-3-6.

Think I can repot?

http://s001.radikal.ru/i193/1004/9f/539488747172.jpg

a better picture of the variegation

http://ficusweb.ru/ficus-binnendijkii.html

Ficus binnendijkii amstel gold

I tried posted links to better pictures but it flagged it for spam... Anyhow; do you have this plant in your collection?

Ficus nerifolia/salicifolia have the lanceolate (long & thin, like the head of a lance) leaf like binnendijkii/alii and are well represented in my collection, but their leaf is naturally much smaller - that's about as close as I come to the tree you're asking after. I actually did a semi-silent (no lecture) demonstration last night at an art studio fundraiser using a very large F nerifolia, the 'theme' for the fundraiser being Japanese art. I'm usually called on by groups that are garden/plant oriented, so some of the questions the patrons asked about what I was doing were really amusing. One lady asked if I was putting leaves on the tree (I have defoliated the tree entirely the evening before to facilitate the wiring & other work I was doing).

The cultural wants of binnendijkii/alii are the same as benjamina, but it tolerates lower light slightly better than benjamina.

I've worked on this tree a few times for others, seen it in home settings (I'm in peoples homes daily because of my work), as well as in a number of conservatories. It's a handsome tree. Do you have questions about care - or just curious?

Al

Here's a before/after picture of a scheff, root-over-rock style I started from a cutting and have been working on for a number of years:

Someone had asked for an updated picture not too long ago, but I never got around to taking one until today. You can see I'm not too bashful about defoliating a scheff, either. Defoliating a HEALTHY plant after a repot forces it to use its energy to push a new flush of leaves. This weakens the tree, so the leaves come in much smaller than if the tree was bursting with energy. It also causes lots of back-budding, which increases ramification (number of branches) which is also desirable. More branches means more leaves, too; which means less energy per leaf which means smaller leaves. One of the primary influences we use to decrease leaf size is by increasing the number of leaves on the plant.

Here's the top of the larger (Ficus) tree pictured above. You can't see it, but I used a trunk splitter to split the trunk in half, then wedged a stone in the split to make the trunk flare so it tapers more.

After it roots, I'll raise it higher in the pot to expose the flare. It hasn't lost any leaves in a week, so I'm sure it's going to make it, and be a little clump-style bonsai some day. No doubt it will end up in a friend's collection. I can't seem to stop myself from propagating plants. Fortunately, there's always someone who wants them .... or I'd be in trouble.

Al

I pruned before repotting, to make the new planting angle easier to achieve. Here's what remained after removing the top branch. I think I will take the rest off in the fall:

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

This tree's roots after a year in Al's mix - this is out of a 12.5" bulb pot!

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

The new planting angle:

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

Trying to get an idea of the future tree:

From 9 Lives Ficus elastica

Thanks for your guidance Al - this tree has come a long way!
GB

I think I'd start pinching it now (tip pruning). Removing the apices (growing branch tips) will force back-budding and additional fullness.

Would you say the trees vitality level and growth potential have been improved to a degree that's notable?

Al

I'm not sure I want to pinch the tips, since I'd like to start new trees from the 3 tips on the top branch... and I kind of feel like I'm keeping my options open by letting the top-to-be extend a little further. Will the tree devote more resources to replacing roots if I don't encourage back-budding?

GB

Will the tree devote more resources to replacing roots if I don't encourage back-budding?

Your tree utilizes chemical messengers to keep the top informed about what the roots are doing and vice versa. If you remove 75% of the top in a hard pruning, the root system will die back accordingly until the top and roots are in balance. After a hard root pruning, the top may shed some branches or partially die back if the remaining roots are unable to move enough water to keep everything hydrated (usually not a significant issue with Ficus, as you can see by some of the extremely hard root prunings I've posted pictures of). Sometimes though, it's a good idea to remove some of the top after a hard root pruning to avoid the plant's random shedding of branches that might be important to your vision for the plant.

The plant won't grow canopy the roots can't support; and conversely, the plant won't grow roots it doesn't need. Root growth always precedes canopy growth. We can see evidence of that in the fact that the first plant part to emerge from a seed isn't the top, its the root radicle (tap root).

I didn't understand the question fully, but hopefully you found your answer in the offering?

I think many of us use our plants' growth as the measure of our ability, but growing is what plants do. All we need to do is get out of their way by altering our habits that limit growth. To my way of thinking, we really begin to come into our own when we let growth take care of itself and instead consider plant health as our priority, followed by how our plants look, more specifically how they CAN look with a little friendly manipulation where that's possible. I think THEN, we've got it right and are looking at the big picture. Who wants an out of control plant - right?

Again - good job!

Al

I don't want to hijack your thread, but have some questions about reducing canopy of my Benjamina that I did a 'radical' (and scary for me!) root pruning to.

I worried that I pruned off too many fine roots, but the tree is alive, very few leaves yellowed and even fewer dropped. I can see lots of new growth that I tried to take photos of, not sure if clear enough. 3rd photo is of whole canopy.
I am keeping it outside in very dappled sunlight, trying to protect it from winds too.
Watering as necessary with MG 12-4-8 as you suggested.

Would it be beneficial to do any canopy pruning?
I did prune off 2 small branches that got dry. Every other branch have leaves & new growth.

There is a thicker branch growing on one side that I thought of getting rid off by air layering. Following photos are showing this branch, it grows in akward way, doesn't look like it belongs there...
If I was to do that, is it stressfull for the recently root-pruned tree?
(I could just cut it off whenever time comes, but wouldn't mind trying to root it that way. It is approx. 3.5inch in circumference where attached to the tree, splitting again.)

Thank you.
Rina

I have to say I was very impressed with your determination to get the roots of your tree straightened out. They were a nightmare & there was little doubt they were limiting your plant. I know your tree was a PARTICULAR chore, but you'll be glad for the work you did, and I promise next time (2 years?) it will be much easier. ;-)

Plenty of new growth is indicative of the fact you have enough root mass to support the current volume of foliage, which means you can now prune the top at will w/o concern that the plant will tolerate it.

It's unclear which branch you want to layer off, but there is no problem getting started on that now, If that's what you want to do.

If you decide to air layer a branch, don't remove any foliage from the branch you're layering. For the rest of the tree, I would first go through it and remove any branches growing straight up, straight down, or back toward the center of the tree. Then, I would remove any branches you feel detract from the appearance of the tree. If you want to see how the tree will look w/o the branch, just cover it with a cloth & see how things look with the branch "gone". It's an effective tool for visualization. Then, I would prune EVERY branch in the top 1/3 of the canopy back to 2 healthy leaves. The middle 1/3 of the tree gets pruned back to 3-4 leaves, depending on how thick the branches are (thicker branches get pruned harder & thinner branches not so hard. The bottom third doesn't get pruned, other than to keep the tree in bounds. Finally, I would reexamine the top and remove the heavier branches to further thin it out. Don't worry about the top - that's where the tree WANTS to allocate the most energy - your job is to discourage that so the lower branches don't weaken. That's partially how you manage the tree's energy to keep it looking good/natural. Figuring all this stuff out and applying it to fulfill your vision for the tree is extremely satisfying to me. It's not hard to imagine that others, having gained the information they need to manipulate their plants in similar fashion, would get the same sense of satisfaction from taking 'just growing plants' to another level. When I see enthusiasm and excitement and a sense of accomplishment in others, as in the last few posts, I just feel blessed to have been able to be a part of it.

You deserve the same praise for a job well done as the previous posted (GB). You both really impressed me.

Al

Thank you for taking time to read & answer.

I never knew that pruning the roots to such extend is beneficial to a tree. I just used to prune off dead and damaged roots. Since joining the GW forum, I found tremendous amount of info.
Thank you for all your posts, I read them over & reffer to them all the times.
I read posts/questions by others & try to apply answers & tips to my own questions.

I hope that this ficus will survive & thrive, I'll be very happy if my first attemp will be success.

Last 2 photos in my previous post are showing that akward branch, it grows almost like it wanted to 'wrap around' the other branch. That's why I think it really doesn't belong there.
The 'Y' visible in 2nd photo is main trunk splitting in 2.

I'll try to visualize eventual look of this tree, I really want to shorten it over all (so I can keep it in the house) & have more even/balanced canopy. It will take me some time, hopefully will be able to figure it out.

I have one more question today: there is 'ugly' spot on main trunk where thicker branch was removed leaving a stub from branch (photo attached). How to clean it up? (using my beautiful new knob cutters?) and when?

Thank you again,
Rina

In case anyone gets antsy about this practice flying in the face of what is considered sound pruning practices for trees in the landscape, I realize that and don't follow this procedure with trees in the ground; but these are houseplants, about which we have no need to be concerned with mechanical failure due to high wind, snow load, or other forces of nature, and the practice I just outlined significantly reduces scarring on containerized trees. Just thought I'd toss that in, in case any wondered.

I just finished all my tropical repots but one today. The only one left is the tree I defoliated for the demo I mentioned upthread. I'll repot that one on the 4th after the reflush is a little further along. I sort of took a chance and included 3 rosemary plants I usually repot in early May. I'd repotted one about a week ago & it handled it just fine, so .... I think I did the last 5 Ficus + the rosemaries today. It's a relief to be almost done - now I can get back to concentrating on the garden.

Al

Thanks for the tips, again.
I remembered that you mentioned to keep just 2 branches emerging from the same spot.

I ment to comment and compliment on the last few photos you posted upthread, it's amazing what you can do with those trees. (They look great to me already!)
You mentioned rosemary - is it almost too late to repot those?
How about other trees, what would be latest to do
repotting?

Our long weekend is almost over (Canada Day - and for me 43rd anniversary of arriving in Canada-yay!) - enjoy your 4th...

Rina

Many Moraceous plants are affected by a disease called fig mosaic virus. Symptoms vary widely from species to species, with aficionados of the hardy fig (F carica) usually being intimately acquainted with it. It sounds like what you might be observing. You live where?

When you say "some have irregular shapes" are you referring to the leaves or the brownish/orange pattern? Would you say the brownish orange in the pattern could be described as the color rust? Would you say that there are leaves that have died or are in danger of dying, or does it appear that it might end up being what you would describe as primarily a cosmetic issue? If you have a lot of branching and leaves are malformed, are all leaves on some branches affected while only some leaves are affected on others? Are any leaves notably smaller than others? Is there any consistency to the spots in their location relative to leaf veins?

I'm sure it's a big disappointment to get by one issue only to have to face another.

Al

If you can save your photos to your computer, when you select the 'browse' button above the text box in your next reply it should take you to your libraries. Find the photo you want to load, right click on it, and select the 'select' option.

.... and you're welcome. Sorry I neglected to thank YOU for the kind words, too. Glad to be of help.

Niada - It's always rewarding to learn that our efforts have made a difference. How little incentive there would be for spending time here if not for the ability to think it makes a difference. Thank YOU for taking the time to share your thoughts.

... really glad to hear the tree is rebounding smartly! How heavy is 'heavy pruning' - and what ficus are we talking about? I'm sure we can come up with a pruning plan when you share your pic(s).

BTW - you guys both get high marks for tackling the repots/root work.

Al

Containerizing is the best unless you have a couple acres to plant ficus anything trees away from your house.

Suzi

It sounds like you repotted; then possibly, over-watering, high heat, a high level of salts (did you fertilize?), or any combination working in concert, caused some spoilage of the foliage's appearance, which you took for disease instead of a cultural complication. You sprayed, and the tree had a seriously negative reaction to the spray for some reason as yet unknown, but probably spraying in high heat. Does this sound chronologically accurate/possible, or am I missing something? Sorry to ask, but can you describe the symptoms that made you think you needed to spray? Was it leaf margins/tips dying?

The bark doesn't look right. It looks like it's dying in areas. I'm not sure what it is, but the plant is in serious trouble. If You have a bed where you can bury the pot & all in the shade for a couple of months, that's what I would do, and stop spraying. Water regularly and hope for the best.

Al

I think burying the container in the shade is a great idea. I had a ficus carica in a container in full sun. They love sun! But what they don't love is when their roots get baked in the container. I found out the hard way, soaked my ficus good, then hit it with a good dose of Miracle Grow, put it in the shade, and now it thrives! It's very hot here in summer. 110 degrees is average.

Good luck!
Suzi

...about 5~days ago i removed the upper-middle leaves (beyond where there's any branching) in anticipation of removing the top (6 inches or so) of the tree via air-layer, or simple 'cutting'.

would luv some input on how. when, where (specifically),, and/or Any other general remarks/advice for the tree if anyones interested.

i'd initially thought to simply take the top as an cutting, making an diagonal cut immediately above, and roughly parrallel to the top-most branch.
..although about an inch directly above that spot is a nice little ~bulged~? spot (where it was likely cut once before my ownership?) which would seem another likely candidate (spot).

the 'trunk' at that location is about 3/16 inch thick,,

Issues:
air (or likely "Pot" layering?) could likely be (slightly) impeeded by the uppermost branch,, though i suppose i could go higher up, or accept the best angle it allows,,,,

my spagnum moss is several yrs old (yellowed) is that bad?
while ive had reasonable succcess with ficus (retusa) cuttings, this subject is relatively small (diameter) for 'layering', perhaps a simple cutting would prove best?

regarding the branches, should i pinch out the growing tips to encourage ramification?
All of them at once? lower ones only??
can/should i take the cutting AND pinch the tips all at one time? (the plant seems reasonably healthy, is actively growing)

if layered, need i actually remove the bark + cambium, or could i simply 'girdle' a perimeter with wire??

if layered, should the moss cover the removed (bark) area? how far above and/or below that area should be moss-covered?

and finally (i hope/think?) what happens to any 'trunk' area (eventually) severed below where roots actually form? does it die-off? callus? remain intact untill (perhaps?) roots may later form? I guess im basically asking where can i anticipate to severe in relation to the removal of bark or girdling (if applicable)? ... as i might not be able to see precisely where the roots've formed without damaging them early on...

appreciate any comments/criticisms :)

ps: couldnt figure how to upload multiple images to show overall specimen :x

How about posting a couple of larger pictures so we can see what's going on - size of the tree, branch arrangement, etc. I'm sure we can form a plan. Your tree comes pretty easily from cuttings - I think I have 4 F microcarpa cuttings rooted right now as give-aways.

You saw the branch I prepared as a cutting this afternoon

Here's another that is already rooted and will be interesting in a year or so - F salicifolia

and this one (also salicifolia) I packed up and sent to a budding bonsai artist friend in VA because she thought it was cute. ;-)

.... but you can also layer if you want. It's not that difficult. The moss you have should be fine, even if it's old & yellow - as long as it's sphagnum moss - yes?

You can use a double wrap of wire to girdle, or a zip tie or two, or ring the bark completely for a distance = to 1.5x the diameter of the branch. When you air layer a branch, after you sever the layer, the branch usually dies back to the next living branch - is that your question? You can use moss in a plastic wrapping or soil in a modified pot to layer. The moss should extend about an inch above and below the girdle. If you use soil, the upper part of the layer should always be above any perched water your soil would support (hopefully none)/ There are a number of ways of attaching a pot so it's stable, if your tree is large enough to allow using a pot.

Al

The little cuttings to start as potential Bonsai are precious!!

Thanks for posting those pics.

Great information here on this thread...

That little ficus is looking great!! : )

Good luck to everyone posting with their trees!!!

Take Care,

Laura

i just spent over 2 hrs summarizing my post reply too lol
im soo disgusted right now....
i'll try back when ive more time to fool with it,,
Thanks for the reply tho, appreciate it. :)

Al, yes i saw your cuttings, and the split-trunk salicifolia, im always amazed at what your able to root!

Ive had semi-reasonable success rate w/(smaller) f. retusa, and here recently Im trying about 35 cuttings of various sized (f. microcarpa?) garnered from pruned clippings performed on a walk-in visitors plant at our recent fall Bonsai show at the Krohn (conservatory, here in Cinti.) [yea, like im too proud to sweep up after em hehe]

anyway,,
I saw Rinas (then) recently posted success w/layering her f. benjamina,
[Al - ficus Benjamina air layer]
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg081801268690.html ?6
and got kinda anxious (about 3 weeks ago now?) and took the plunge.

At your suggestion i used the moss (i had/have), stripped the bark at about 1.5x, and used the 'pot' method,, began waiting w/fingies crossed and eyedropper at-the-ready...
As i was summating this reply i thought to check on the plant (which ive been keeping just slightly dryer) and upon inspecting the layer, sure enough there is definite signs of rooting!

The roots appear to be trying to circle the bottom of the pot, and growing towards the taped 'slit',, kinda hard to photograph (especially after all the java ive had lol)
but i'll try again later,, kinda excited!
Thanks soo much! :)
ss SilentFicusCrazySurfer

I've talked about my old (soon to be 100) friend Fred very often. His kids tried sooo hard to get him to 'wind down' as a plantsman, and as hard as he tried, even while he was living in an assisted living facility, he just couldn't stop propagating everything he could get his hands on. He had plants growing everywhere you looked - indoors and out. He's in a different kind of care facility now because of some health issues, and he can't have plants. I don't know if you've ever seen those little solar powered dancing daisies before, but I took him a couple for his windowsill. They're soo cool, and they make everyone smile. I ordered a whole case (48) of them, just to give to friends and people on whose face I want to see a smile. The colors are much brighter than they look in the video. I sure wish I was the guy that invented these things - instant millionaire - people actually stand in line to get 'em at the Dollar Store before it opens - took me 3 months to find them in stock anywhere so I could order. Anyway - Fred loved his daisies, and that's what counts.

Al

just last week an elderly gentleman was standing over his opened car hood, as i pulled up and parked alongside him, eager to get in the gym, i had to ask, 'everything alright?' he stood there, leaning up, snot about to drip from his nose, (tho it was still in the mid-60's) and i could see he was obviously trying to fill his washer fluid,, but, 'its a new, Full bottle, and i dont want to spill it all over the place', 'could use a funnel' he explained. well, (short story) his pocket knife, an empty Powerade bottle from the floor of my car, and we were in business. He said he was 97, a veteran, ...thought i was a 'genius' lol
and dont ya know, just that, made (me) feel way better than it ever could've him.
so, now, i think i know where your comin from Al when you say why you do the things you do. :)

anyhoo, hey a cpl Questions, if/when youve a min't please :)

i think im gonna be severing here soon, should i try to bare-root the layer?
i know their gonna be frail (roots) but recent experience with 'potting up' is akin to taking a wet sponge (sphagnum), and burying it into a bowl of marbles (gritty mix) guess what happens when watering?? lol next time i'll use soil/gritty in the cup/pot. :)

also, on another thread, RE: Plastic Wrap on Fused Ficus
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg081400155190.html ?41
you mentioned what i'll call 'a prelude to taking a cutting' technique, where we would choose a cutting from the South side of the plant, girdle it, and wrap w/reversed electrical tape,,,

questions:
how long would you leave it girdled and wrapped for, before taking the cutting?

(regarding this layer) is there anything i can (should) do now to initiate a good flat root base as its starting up? their kinda growing upward and starting to encircle the pot already.... :x

im also wondering, Why the south side? Do plants recognize a sense of direction?
cuz if a plant recognizes direction, then should i rotate my houseplants in a fashion consistent /complimentary to that?

example:
the Sun sets in the west, effectively it 'travels' east to west, because the Planet spins in an opposite direction, a counterclockwise rotation (when viewed from the top) thus a 'normal' stationary plant effectively rotates CCW (with the Earth) in relationship to its light source (the Sun)
should i try to mimic that when im rotating houseplants? ... or just face the neediest side to my window as i see fit?
....or Maybe,, the south side is just typically the strongest/most vigorous??
srry i gotta git lol Al Thanks a bunch mr! :)

btw i also have some f. microcarpa cuttings (from the Bonsai Show) rooting!
...in a ziplock baggie! hehe good things goin on :)