Looks like your cat is chewing on the plant.
Leaf drop occurs when there is significant change in humidity/temperature/light.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ficus trees in containers

here is another photo...

I don't have any pets, there hasn't been any change in the environment. Something else should be the reason.

There are a good number of potential causes of distorted foliage, most of them nutritional, but not all, some are cultural. Are these symptoms developing on new leaves, old leaves, or randomly?

In some cases, deficiency symptoms develop in plants that were being fertilized at luxury levels at the greenhouse after they are returned to dosages closer to maintenance dosages.

The easiest way to eliminate the problem would be to review your growing practices for areas that would potentially be causal, and make changes so potential limitations become nonissues. For ficus, if you pot the plant in a soil you can water correctly w/o worry that the soil will remain soggy for extended periods and cause root rot or impaired root function, use an appropriate fertilizer, keep the plant in a spot where it gets appropriate light and favorable temps, you'll have 9/10 of the battle won. Add regular repotting to your list and take care of that chore every 1-3 years and you'll be golden.

What I said might seem a little vague, but I'm ready to answer any specific questions you might have in probably as much detail as you can tolerate - if you're interested. If you're not, that's one more ficus I'll get repotted today. ;-)

Al

Hi Al and adib_y,

Resurrecting this thread as I have 2 Ficus Lyrata seedlings which have a similar problem: holes in leaves, no yellow halo-ing, but a rusty / brown halo - and this is from the newer growth (newest three leaves). There are also additional problems that I suspect are related: curling of leaves at tips + tips going crispy brown + some browny-red scarring in the middle of leaves that I think will progress to holes in the leaves.

I bought the seedlings from a lady who lives in the tropical part of Australia, whilst I live in the more temperate state of Victoria..... So my hunch is that perhaps this is a stress thing in response to change in humidity levels..?

I will add more pics tomorrow afternoon because I am both too excited (for a reply from Al) to not jump at the chance to post now while I'm motivated and yet too sleepy to organise some better piccies tonight.

Some additional info:

* I've had the seedlings two months now. No leaf drop. One seedling has had a new leaf sprout with heaps of holes. The bigger seedling hasn't done anything. They are both in 3" plastic pots, in medium I have no clue as to composition (but it has perlite and bark), and which I will pot up in the future if they actually survive. (And yes, I am considering using your recipe Al, and then putting in a wick while they are still small and manageable.)

* It is now Spring here and the plants are indoors sat facing the South-East Window (which would be the North-East facing counterpart in the US I guess?) in a house with big tall glass sliding doors and white interiors. So some morning sunshine plus lots of bright indirect light throughout the day (because SW aspect also has the glass windows).

* I don't use a heater at the moment. Not since I've had the plants.

* I have been watering them with a super diluted mix of of Plant Starter by Multicrop + water (2mL P.S. to 2L of tap water left to stand at rom temp for 24hours). I water when the top 1" layer of soil is dry and the bottom drain holes are damp-ish. And prior to reading a lot of threads by Al on soil + water retention, I have been watering with tap water (let stand for 24hours) once to flush, let effluent drain for 15 mins, then water again with my mix as above. (So I was pretty stoked when you repeatedly mention about the importance of flushing out soluble salts!!!)

* I was getting depressed about the status of the new growth so I pinched off the leaves that had really bad holes and cut off the brown tips - freaking out that it might be some pest or fungus problem. (Darn, should have taken photos while they were still attached. Anyway, there are still the scarring on some of the leaves for tomorrow's pics.)

I think that's it. By the way Al, I have learnt a lot from your posts and comments. Thank you for sharing the knowledge in a very understandable way and for being approachable and friendly. (Well I think you are... And I hope I'm right!)

PS - I bought myself an el cheapo moisture meter and then came across your comments about them, did the experiment with water and then water + salt, and now I'm sad I threw away $30. Wish I saw your comments first!

PPS - adib_y Sorry for hijacking your thread!

Dreaming of healthy FLFigs, Simone

First, your "fertilizer" contains Indole 3 Acetic Acid (IAA) and Naphthalene Acetic Acid (NAA). Both are synthetic forms of a plant growth regulator (auxin) that are often applied as rooting aids. Some plants are sensitive to one or the other, or both chemicals, and when used on plants that have established root systems they are usually counterproductive, or at best, of no help. It's definitely not a fertilizer.

Thanks for the nice compliment, BTW. It's always nice to be able to believe someone is benefiting from the things we offer.

Unless you're using a very fast draining soil, you're prolly over-watering. If you can detect moisture an inch below the surface when you water, it's a good bet a large fraction of the soil is very soggy for a good part (or all of it) of the time between waterings. Buy a 6.5 - 8mm wooden dowel rod about a M long, cut it in half and sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener, stick it deep in the pot (to the bottom) - if it comes out moist/dark/cool, withhold water until it first comes out dry.

Start fertilizing with something appropriate. I don't know what's available down there, but there's a good chance that fertilizing will be enough to set them back on course.

Sounds like you have a lot of light - good.

I'm always approachable, and always extra willing to help anyone willing to make the effort to understand some of the amazing things that plants are constantly doing, and how to eliminate factors that hold our plants back.

Al