Many thousands, if not millions, are experiencing the same problem you are.

Spider plants require good drainage and frequent flushing of the soil because they don't tolerate a high TDS count. That means they don't like fertilizer salts or dissolved solids from tap water accumulating in the soil, so you need to flush it regularly to keep levels low, and fertilize often at low concentrations.

They are also intolerant of compounds of fluorine, which also accumulate in the soil and in the plant, so again, flushing the soil regularly helps to keep fluoride levels from accumulating.

They don't like wet feet, so over-watering is also a problem. They do best in soils that drain quickly and thoroughly, so you can flush the soil w/o worrying about root problems.

Beyond that, they're one of the easiest plants to grow.

Al

Thanks for your response.
A couple of days ago I put 2 spider babies in water and today I notice the same thing as the adult plant. What can be done to save them?

My spider is much greener and more perky since I started watering with tap water that has sat out at room temp for 24+ hours. I have two 1-gallon jugs that I keep stocked and ready for when it's time to water. With that said, I also started fertilizing more regularly around the same time that I started using the jugs of room temp water, so is it the water or the fertilizer? I don't know for sure, likely a combination of both. I got TONS of spider plant info on this site using the search function. Peruse the old threads if you have time. This site with its wealth of info and knowledgable people has been a life (plant!) saver!

Are you able to include a picture with your post?

That is what I do, let the water sit for 24 hours before watering.
About a month ago I used Schultz fertilizer, the 7 drops in water. I only used it a few times, maybe that is what happened...over feeding. I am a bit upset as I had finally found a curly spider baby and I'm losing it too.
I'm attaching a couple of pictures:

Another picture of a different plant

I very often point out that being a good grower revolves around how efficient we are at identifying and eliminating the cultural conditions that are limiting our plants. The most important factors are listed in my post above. They want a soil you can water correctly - so you're flushing accumulating problems from the soil each time you water - without having to worry that the soil is going to remain soggy so long it causes root rot or impedes the roots ability to do their job efficiently. Roots need O2 as much as water to work the way they should. You should also use a fertilizer that satisfies the plants nutritional needs w/o having to over-supply a ton of other elements. For instance, the popular houseplant fertilizer 5-15-5 supplies about 8X as much phosphorous as your plant needs or can use in relation to N, so it wouldn't be a good choice./ Fertilizers with NPK RATIOS close to the ratio at which the plant actually uses the nutrients allow you to keep the TDS (salt) level as low as possible w/o encountering deficiencies, so it follows that appropriate fertilizers go a long way toward resolving the issue of necrotic leaf tips/margins and areas low in chlorophyll.

If you have a friend that has a reverse osmosis water filtration system, see if you can borrow water from her/him for plants that don't like fluoride.

BTW - most municipal water suppliers use chloramine to chlorinate tap water. Chloramine isn't volatile, so doesn't gas off, and compounds of fluorine actually become more concentrated as water sits out and partially evaporates, so don't expect an improvement because you allow your water to rest for a day or 2 before using it.

I used to mix my tap water + fertilizer ahead of using it by at least 3 days (in winter, I fertilize every time I water), but that's because I'm AR about putting stuff off. I want stuff to be ready when I'm ready to water. I now have a R/O water filtration system, and I STILL mix water ahead, even though there is no possible + in doing it. I've also asked every degreed person I've met who has anything at all to do with the plant sciences about any evils associated with watering with cold water as opposed to room temp. None have been able to offer any info or insight as to why cold water might SHOCK plants or in any other way be harmful ..... but there's no harm in being careful, even if there might not be any good, either. Bonsai enthusiasts regularly water plants displayed in shows with ice cubes scattered over the surface with no notable harm, so .....

Al

Another option, if you can't get ahold of any reverse osmosis-filtered water and don't want to spend $$ on distilled water, is to collect and use *free* rainwater. It's pretty simple once you get the hang of it. I use The Weather Channel app on my laptop and the WeatherBug app on my phone to monitor the forecast for when it will rain, and the radar while it's raining. If it is only a little bit of rain, I don't bother. I collect rainwater only on days when it's a heavy downpour or just constant rain all day long. Then I wait a while, giving the rain time to "flush" out any dust/pollution/contaminants/debris/etc... from the air and off of the roof. Once it's done that, I simply place this large plastic tub under the runoff from my roof, collecting the cleanest rainwater possible. After it's filled up, I immediately bottle it up into one gallon jugs and store them away in crates in my garage.

I have done this for several years now, over and over so much, that I have pretty much gotten the hang of it, to where it barely requires any effort on my part, just a little bit of planning. I now have more than plenty of clean rainwater to use, as well as some "reserves" to last me thru any lengthy dry spell. I use it for all of my plants that hate tap water/chlorine/fluoride. I find it to be definitely worthwhile, if you wanna grow truly beautiful plants. :)

You dont put them outside in the sun, do you? You've had them for 2 years, you said, so Im assuming not. The first one, especially, does look like damage from sun or heat.

No, plants are in the house and not near the window. They in the living room and getting light from the west facing window.
Are they a lost cause??should I ditch them??
I'm hoping that by getting rid of the damaged leaves, that new healthy growth will show up.

To me, they look like they're being kept too dry. Do you thoroughly water them when you water them? Giving them little "sips" of water can be just as bad for any plant. Because that's how the minerals in the water you're using can build up in the plant's soil over time, causing even more harm. When you water any plant, always flush water thru the whole pot until it's running out of the bottom. Then just lean the pot over at a 45ð angle and let any excess water drain away. This isn't over watering your plants. At least not as long as the soil is fast draining and doesn't stay soggy.

I wouldn't consider them a lost cause. Spider plants are very hardy and tough. Mine survived a year of neglect before being properly potted up and taken care of better. Mine would always have brown tips and looked horrible. But then I quit using regular tap water and switched to rainwater, my spider plant perked right up and began growing like a weed. Don't give up hope, they can pull thru and bounce back even better than ever.

Is that mix hardened to the touch? It looks like it might be, too much peat in it, not enough perlite to help it be fast draining.

Was that plant out in the hot sun? I don't think these are high light plants. Looks to me like the plant is dying of thirst.

I think that they're getting too much light, seems to be burning them. Can you lower the blinds or pull the curtains?

Thank you for your suggestions.
I'm going to give them a chance by repotting and watering/draining them with rainwater and hope for the best!!

Theinks for asking was curius as to how mine was doing as a year round house plant.