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lilbit7777

Plant I'd and care please:)

LilBit7765
9 years ago

Hi everyone!!! My boyfriend picked up this plant for his Mother's birthday. But it didn't have a tag (even if it did, it could've been wrong anyway) so we wanna be able to tell her what it is and how to take care of it. There's a sticker that reads"exotic angel hanging basket" that's it. Any clues on what it is and how to care for, lighting, watering, etc.? Thank you ;)

Comments (12)

  • Thomas (Zone 7b - NYC)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hoya Rubra

    This post was edited by tsouth on Fri, Aug 22, 14 at 1:04

  • aurorawa
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hoya Carnosa 'Rubra'

    Should be potted in a gritty mix (I use 1 part turface, 1 part orchid bark and 1 part pumice, mix together). Likes to be "snug" or a bit rootbound in pot. I would go ahead and remove the soil it is in right now (do this by soaking the plant for about 15 minutes and gently combing through roots with fingers until most soil is gone) and replace with a more well-draining mix.

    They like bright, indirect light. A west facing window would be ideal.

    Water thoroughly, but wait until the first top inch or two is dried out before watering again. Before watering, make sure water you are using has been sitting out for at least 24 hours to remove any chlorine, and if you suspect your area uses chloramines in your tap water, add some water conditioner (you can find it at petco or petsmart in the fish section-heck, walmart probably sells it) to it. Also add an appropriate water-soluble fertilizer with a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) ratio of 3-1-2. A few good ones are Dyna-Grow, MSU, and Miracle Grow All-Purpose. You want to add it into the water you use for your plant because hoyas LOVE feedings.

    You can also foliar feed by spraying the leaves directly. I do this about once a week with the same fertilizer used to direct water. I also add neem oil into my spray bottle for foliar feeding. This kills any pests that may be attacking my hoyas (and mealybugs are VICIOUS little buggers) and acts as a wetting agent to help the leaves absorb the fertilizer.

    I also use a bloom boosting fertilizer once a month to promote blooms. And hoyas DO bloom. Carnosas have beautiful, fragrant blooms!

    All this may seem complicated, but it really is not! I promise! And hoyas are forgiving! Just don't over water, and spray to prevent mealybugs and other nasty critters!

    There is an entire forum dedicated to hoyas on gardenweb!

    Here is a link that might be useful: Hoya Carnosa Rubra bloom

    This post was edited by AuroraWA on Fri, Aug 22, 14 at 1:49

  • LilBit7765
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks you SOOO much everyone especially Aurora. I do use the gritty mix but seeing how It's for my boyfriends mom I thought maybe she wouldn't be able to keep up with its care in the gritty. Maybe I'm wrong. I sprayed it IMMEDIATLEY with neem oil before I brought her inside. How often do you spray yours with neem oil? Thanks for the valuable info! -Christy

  • aurorawa
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I put 1/2 teaspoon of neem oil in my water bottle that I use for foliar feeding, which I do once every week or two. I forgot to tell you to use HALF strength fertilizer for watering, both can watering and foliar feeding, in the active period (spring through fall) of your hoya's growth, and 1/4 strength for winter.

    If I get an infestation, which has only happened once, I use this concoction:

    1.5 teaspoons neem oil
    2 Tablespoons 70% rubbing alcohol
    2 drops regular ivory (NOT ULTRA) dish soap
    32 oz water

    You spray the plant down LIBERALLY and do not expose to sunlight until it is completely dry, or you end up with burned leaves. Repeat once every 4 days for 3 weeks.

  • LilBit7765
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks SOOOO much

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I use

    1 tsp pure, cold-pressed neem oil
    1 pint of 70% strength rubbing alcohol
    1 pint of very hot water
    Several drops of 1 of the following: Murphy's Oil Soap, Castille Soap, insecticidal soap

    Combine all but the alcohol in a 1 qt spritzer. Shake well, add the alcohol, shake again. Spray just before dark, making sure to completely cover the plant. Shake the bottle regularly because the neem oil tends to come out of suspension very quickly. Use all the product or discard. Neem breaks down quickly when exposed to sun. Neem oil provides no instant knockdown, but the 50/50 alcohol/water mix does.

    Al

  • LilBit7765
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm using bionide's neem oil, is that ok? Or should I get a different kind? Thank again everyone!

  • LilBit7765
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Also, what's cold pressed mean when pertaining to neem oil, and what's the difference between that and the bionide's neem? Thanks again!

  • nomen_nudum
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Use what you have on hand. When you have a chance and can find it Dyna grow offers a cold pressed neem. I think cold pressed neem is all they offer


    COLD PRESSED Neem is 100 % Neem oil. Zero % anything else including water

    Keep up now ( LOL)
    Cold pressed oils and many other types of liquids last longer with out the need of frezzing.
    Cold pressed can be stored for a very long time in dark cool areas with out breaking down.
    Cold pressed liquids like neem oil can be stored in dark cool areas and become firmer and thicker while there.
    Firmer thicker neem is more stable.
    The more stable a liquid oil is the longer it'll last.

    Cooler and more stable neem oil will last much much longer than any thinner warmer stored neem but the liquid oil has to be cold pressed so it can be stored in cooler darker areas.

    Still with me ?

    When needed you simply trun on a warmer than room temp tap fill a bowl and let the dark cool stored thicker more stable bottle of neem to soak in the bowl with its cover on when looser allow to flow for what you need plus or minus. Recap to return unused neem in original bottle to the same cool dark area for storage

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The active ingredient in neem is Azadiractin. Azadiractin is greatly diminished in effectiveness when the oil is separated from plant parts by steam or alcohol extraction, which is why pure cold-pressed oil is so much more effective. I use Dyna-Gro, but any pure cold-pressed product would probably be its equal

    Al

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I wrote this a few years ago:

    Neem Extract as an Insecticide

    In India mainly, but also Asia and Africa, grows a tree all plant enthusiasts should be aware of, Azadirachta indica, commonly known as the "neem" tree, and a relative of mahogany. Extracts from the tree’s seeds contain azadirachtin, a relatively safe and effective naturally occurring organic insecticide. Let me preface the comments following, by reminding you that the terms "naturally occurring and/or organic" do not universally mean safe. Pyrethrums, rotenone, and even the very dangerous nicotine are all organic insecticides that should be handled with great caution. Neem extracts, on the other hand are very safely used in a wide variety of cosmetics, as a topical treatment for minor wounds, as an insecticide in grain storage containers, bins, and bags, and a whole host of other applications. Neem is very safe for use around birds & mammals. I'll limit this discussion to its use as an insecticide.

    Neem works in many ways. It is effective both in topical and a systemic applications. It is an anti-feedant, an oviposition deterrent (anti-egg laying), a growth inhibitor, a mating disrupter, and a chemosterilizer. Azadirachtin, a tetranortriterpenoid compound, closely mimics the hormone ecdysone, which is necessary for reproduction in insects. When present, it takes the place of the real hormone and thus disrupts not only the feeding process, but the metamorphic transition as well, disrupting molting. It interferes with the formation of chitin (insect "skin") and stops pupation in larvae, thus short-circuiting the insect life cycle. It also inhibits flight ability, helping stop insect spread geographically

    Tests have shown that azadirachtin is effective in some cases at concentrations as low as 1 ppm, but some producers use alcohol in the extraction of neem oil from plant parts which causes the azadirachtin to be removed from the oil. Some products touting neem oil as an ingredient actually have no measurable amounts of azadiractin. I use what is referred to either as cold pressed or virgin neem oil. You may also occasionally find it referred to as "raw" neem or "crude" neem oil.

    Neem oil is most often used in an aqueous (water) suspension as a foliar spray or soil drench. Commonly, it is diluted to about a .5 to 2% solution, but the suggested ratio for use in container plant culture is 1 tsp. per quart of warm water. A drop or two of dish soap (castile or olive oil soap is best) helps keep the oil emulsified. The mixture is then applied as a mist to all leaf and bark surfaces and as a soil drench to the tree's root system. It should not be applied as a foliar spray on hot days or in bright sun as leaf burn may occur. Remember to agitate the container frequently as you apply and do not mix anymore than you will use in one day. Neem breaks down rapidly in water and/ or sunlight.

    Some users of insecticides feel the need to observe the instant results of their efforts in order to be convinced of the effectiveness of what they are using. The application of neem derivatives does not provide this immediate gratification. There is virtually no knockdown (instant death) factor associated with its use. Insects ingesting or contacting neem usually take about 3 - 14 days to die. Its greatest benefit; however, is in preventing the occurrence of future generations. It is also interesting to note that in studies it was found that when doses were given, purposefully insufficient to cause death or complete disruption of the metamorphic cycle, up to 30 surviving generations showed virtually no resistance/ immunity to normal lethal doses, so it appears that insects build no ‘resistance’ to azadiractin.

    I have been using neem oil for five years as both a preventative and fixative and have had no insect problems on my container plants. Applications of cold-pressed neem oil are most effective for use on mites, whitefly, aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, beetles, mealy bugs, leaf miners, g-moth, and others. It seems to be fairly specific in attacking insects with piercing or rasping mouth parts. Since these are the pests that feed on plant tissues, they are our main target species. Unless beneficial like spiders, lady beetles, certain wasps, etc., come in direct contact with spray, it does little to diminish their numbers.

    Neem oil does have an odor that might be described as similar to that of an old onion, so you may wish to test it first, if you intend to use it indoors. I've found the odor dissipates in a day or two. As always, read and follow label instructions carefully.

    Neem oil can be purchased from many net or local sources. My favorite brand is Dyna-Gro, pure, cold-pressed neem oil. If you have trouble locating a source, you can contact me via the forum or directly.

    AL

  • LilBit7765
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Al and nomen nudum! I GREATLY appreciate the info! (And yes nomen, I did keep up lol) (I'm only usually a ding bat when I've had lack of sleep lol) I have a long weekend so my brain is well rested lol! Thanks again!!! :)

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