They probably would have been fine if you'd left them. A healthy plant can usually be defoliated & push a new flush of growth with no problem. Often, when I start a cutting that's in leaf the cutting will shed all it's foliage & just sit there for several weeks while it makes roots. When it has enough roots, it starts to leaf out again.

In the case of your plant, it's very unlikely the stems were damaged. The recently disturbed roots just couldn't keep up with the water demands made much greater by the dry air conditioner. Also, the sudden chill in itself can cause shedding on a high % of plants. The plant 'knows' when leaves are a deficit by how much of a particular growth regulator is flowing across an abscission (shedding) zone at the base of each leaf. If photosynthesis slows and production of that growth regulator is reduced, an abscission layer forms, the leaf is shed, and a new leaf grows from the latent (dormant) bud in the old leaf crotch ..... you just need to be patient & trust the plant to do what it's programmed to do.

Al

Thanks PG & Al, I appreciate the insight. I hope the plant pulls through and will try not to be so quick to doubt. And now that I know a little patience is in order, maybe I'll attempt repotting the Calathea's this weekend after all.

Jeni

I'm finally able to post a few pictures of the plant in question. I'm not sure whether it will help or not, but this is what it looks like. Also, I'm sorry that the picture quality isn't the greatest.

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Jeni

mine

I'm leaving the plant alone, I promise, but would like to know whether there is any benefit to cutting it back to the soil or if I should just wait for the leaves to die off naturally.

Jeni

I have mine in the soil you first mentioned, African violet mix with perlite and such orchid bark mixed in. They are doing very well.

I'm new to Calathea and have to learn the plant.

I have nothing against Al's Gritty Mix except that it appears that we can't always discuss alternative mixes on the forum.

Susan

Obviously, that's entirely untrue. You/we/I are always free to discuss anything we wish on any forum, and if the topic is 'soils', there is sure to be discussion because there is widespread interest. Where people run into resistance in soil discussions, or in ANY discussion, is when they present what they WANT to be true as true - and it isn't, or when they play with or misrepresent facts. Much of soil science is cut and dried and deals in facts that follow the laws of physics and chemistry - nothing more. Those laws don't bend because we want them to or because we interpret them incorrectly. Any discussions that center on the facts or even how they are interpreted have much potential to be enlightening and helpful. Usually, the discussions come off the rails when someone has difficulty with often the simplest of concepts and turns to personal effrontery or throwing rocks from the sidelines - something bad for the forum and often seen in the form of a preemptive strike, if you know what I mean ....

Al

Can anyone give me advice on how to cut back the leafs that are broken which are still rolled and were to do the cutting , I would greatly appreciate any one that could give me advice. P.S

Can anyone give me advice on how to cut back the leafs that are broken which are still rolled and were to do the cutting , I would greatly appreciate any one that could give me advice. P.S

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Your plant is beautiful, Rick! Any leaves or brown bits you don't like, just cut them off. From this pic, I don't see anything I would remove at the moment, but it's not my plant. Make it look how you want so you enjoy looking at it. Thanks for sharing this beauty!

Rick. I agree, your Calathea is really nice.

Do you know the reason leaves ripped when rolled?

Torn foliage will not graft back together, so why not wait until they're fully unfurled?
Unless the look really bothers you..if that's the case, snip off stems closest to the base/soil line.

How tall is your Cal? There's quite a few leaves, which may be the reason a leaf or two ripped. Toni

These calathea s are very beautiful plants and you must have a lot of patience with them and specially the watering and humidity I have the same plant the calathea makoyans and its 1foot tall already

For me the plants are not hard to keep them growing is cutting back that I don't know how to do the right way and all my calathea plants are 1foot tall and 4 inch pots for now witch I'm getting ready to repot them soon as get my my gold black all purpose soil I order and have used now for a year and give great looking plants

Rich, both your Maranta/Prayer Plant and Calathea/Peacock Plant are doing fantastic.

I don't see any need to cut them back.

Sometimes, when Calathea and Maranta is getting too much direct light, or soil dries to extremes, leaves brown and furl, but both you plants look perfect.

Peacock is one of my favorite Calatheas. Toni

This is one of the most easy s plant their is to grow in the house, and mine is gorgeous but now is starting to get black tips why? I keep the soil moist and water it ones a week, need a hit why the black tips and should I snip them off or not? It's a 4 inch pot and a foot and half tall I have with same tip problem and help would be grateful. P.S

Necrotic leaf tips and margins are symptoms of the plant's inability to move water to its distal parts fast enough to keep up with the rate at which the leaves lose moisture through transpiration. It's like a hose with lots of holes in it - if all the water escapes through the holes, it's possible none will make it to the end of the hose.

The potential causes are several, but by far the most common cause is a heavy (water-retentive) soil and a hand too heavy on the watering can. Heavy soils that retain too much water deprive the roots of oxygen. Water and nutrient movement is an energy driven process that requires oxygen, so a reduction in oxygen means a reduction in the roots' ability to function efficiently - the the burned tips.

If you're intent on using the Black Gold soil you ordered, you might find some tips on how to deal with excess water retention to be helpful. See the link below.

Easing up on the watering by not watering until the soil is fairly but not completely dry would be very helpful. Use a wood dowel or a bamboo skewer stuck deep into the pot as a 'tell'. If the stick comes out damp/dark/cool on your wrist, withhold water. With those small plastic pots, hefting the pot will easily tell you what the moisture content of the soil is.

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: Help with excess water retention

Can anyone help me if they can describe this growing on one my Dieffenchea plant. I have three of them I kind of think this the starting of a pod but not sure thank to anyone that can give me information with this. P.S thanks

This is another picture of the same plant, I have never seen this before

SlickRick2003,

Hi, I see you're newish, so maybe you don't know this. It's customary to start a new thread for every new question, or at the very least for every new TOPIC.

This thread is about Calathea (& their close relatives Marantha, Cetanthe, etc.)

Peace Lilies are other plants as are Dracenas which should each have separate threads so folks here can pls. deal w/ the issues as posted by the OP (Original Poster).

Hi Susan (waving here),

Don't think that's true about not being able to discuss other mixes here, we can both discuss them & disagree. I personally have done so myself & am still on friendly terms w/ Al, right ;>)

As to Calatheas, I too am struggling w/ mine,but it's gotten better & better, yet I left it in the peaty mix it came in, cause I didn't have better options lying around for it.

Sometime (if I ever get my home Internet back) I'll post pix of my Calathea (you can all make fun that I water it w/ ice cubes (I'm embarrassed to even admit this here)), but she's still alive after several MONTHS (& even has lots of new growth) so there!!

Thought you Cal lovers would enjoy a pic of mine.

Here is another one of mine that I've grown in black Gold soil that other type of soil in time get snags and kill them good luck

Soil is the key to the Calathea specially moist good well drain soil and indirect light they will do fine, one other main pointer the regular soil from Micro grow is not the one I recommend is Black Gold it's excellent all mine are this soil. Good Luck

Hello, from what I understand your thinking of doing something I did over the winter but I had a small greenhouse which I used. And yes you have the right idea but its best that you wait till it gets a little wormer to repot them but just remember the Calathea plants can't be repotted into something bigger because there slow growers and if you repot into a bigger pot size you have to watch your watering to moist not wet because of root rot, if this is what has worked for me with my Calatheas I use black gold all natural potting soil with peat moss in a self watering pot called spa planters that you water from the bottom so you have to worry of over watering them these pots have work red for me excellent with my Calatheas because that's all I grow and are my favorite the key is water to moist and spray ones a day with water bottle. Well hope this may help good luck

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Cj-speciosa
That's one stunning calathea, can you tell us more about how you keep it? Any special treatments:)?
Thanks

Nope.....No special treatments at all. As a matter of fact I keep the soil wet most of the time. I'm assuming it's okay because of the very low humidity. When I say wet, I mean saturated until the water fills the saucer underneath. I'm assuming this full saucer aids in creating some micro-humidity around the plant.

I mist when I remember too, and that's about it. It's constantly shooting up new leaves and a few months back it flowered incessantly. I wasn't a fan of the flowers so I clipped them off once they opened. I'd rather the plant put it's energy into it's beautiful foliage.

Honestly, I bought it without knowing anything about it, that was two years ago. Once I grew to love it I started looking up what it was, what it likes, how to care for it, etc. But for the most part, I just got lucky.

I finallly added some fertilizer to it's water a few weeks back. It' hasn't gotten any in years.

It comes down to just liking the spot it's in.

From read your information I think you have green thumb for them which not to many people have for these types of plants but one thing I understand that saturate your soil but that's not to good I think me I water well ones a week and let them come to almost dry with a pebble tray underneath for the moist but then again I bought a humidifier and keep it 3 ft from them and every day for three hours I run it and they love it, but I guess your way works just be careful with the water and fertilizer you did right this is the time but just keep in mind the the calathea months are August threw February .P.S here is a picture of mine

It is embarrassing to show my Calathea, but I want you guys/gals to help me with what wrong with it? Granted, I got it last nov from the dead cart in bbs. It has not doing anything particularly, but last couple days as the weather warm up, it looks too dry ?

Hello. Greendale this slickrick2003 from the look of your plant it's in bad shape,it needs your help. 1 is what ever those white rocks that are in the pot have to get out of there never put rocks into a pot with a calathea plant they do not agree,2 to me with my three years growing and studying these beautiful plants and had the same problem your having what worked for me was I repotted in well organic soil with good draining and I cut them back till like 4 inches above the soil and just left them alone with just monitoring the soil and humidity and they grew back and now is the best time to do it so buy next month you should see the new growth coming and the next problem you have from what I see is moist if you like me that loves these plants I would keep a tray with pebbles and water underneath and a humidifier ones it's grown back to help the foliage these plants come from the tropics were the humidity is always med to high level and hot climate,but you can do it like I did it just takes time. From the looks your foliage has had it you need to repot and cut back. P.S good luck keep me in touch,here is one more of mine.

speciosa,
I was going to ask you how you take care of your plant in the other thread and then found this one. thought posting a link re:repotting in gritty would interest you as a warning. but you got here first. i'd advise strongly against repotting into gritty. I was browsing for some time to see what the care is. it's a primadonna, but since you are doing great AND nothing special - just continue as you are.
I think 5 part AV soil with 4 part perlite and may be 1 part orchid bark would be good. similar to what scsva said. of course, I would put it on water-wick like AV so I don't have to worry about it going dry. I am an underwaterer and have 'occasional lapses of attention' for my plants. so wicks are a must for me.
they have shallow roots and it's best to keep them tight, so unless the roots are really tight on yours, I would wait until summer and then look at the roots to decide.
they do like hi humidity , but prone to rot if overwatered. since yours are standing in water and slurping it up from the saucer, they are probably severely pot-bound. IF you up-pot and continue the same they might actually rot. so it's a fine balance.

Thanks for the heads up petrushka. And yes...they are literally standing in water.

I know I'm going to have to do something in the future. I don't want to pot up so I'm gonna have to trim some roots and replace the potting mix.

Can you let me know what "AV soil" is?

See....

But this is the result....You can't even see the other spikes that are coming out of the soil in this pic, but there are three or four more. Not to mention more leaves growing out of existing ones...

I'm really dreading taking this out of the pot.....

so don't. it can proly go another year, and then you'll be able to divide the tuber clusters in two and make 2 plants - no need to trim healthy roots, unless you can't fit them back in the pot. no need to bare root either, just clean off some loose soil. but... it all depends what's inside, if it's a total mush....
don't be tempted to just look - your roots might be stuck to clay or totally compacted, so you won't be able to stuff them back in. wait for summer. all tropicals are better wrestled with in summer.
AV=African violet soil, it's sold as such.
so what is your pot size? from the pic looks like you have may be 4-6 tubers in there. it looks really good.
what kind of soil is in the pot now? , poke around gently with a chopstick, see how dense it is, how soggy/dry, is it all homogenous?
and 1mm of water really does not count as 'standing water' :). you have a thick clay pot 2cm?+shallow 2-3cm saucer? so your roots are probably clearing the water.
I am looking around for some info.
"This" article mentions AV soil and dividing in spring, taking cuttings.

"this one" even says it rarely needs repotting (anathema!!!). and no or very little fertilizer - so again you are on track.
one more said that commercial cactus mix is ok. it does contain peat and is fairly well draining.
most articles suggest hi organics, rich soil. so AV qualifies, especially with addition of perlite.
and it likes low-to-hi acidity: AV soi is formulated for that.

Hello petrushka, from the look of your picture your plant seems to be okay. Except that it could use a little bigger pot and as for I would recommend a organic soil with some extra peat moss in it like I use for mine and then just set it on tray with pebbles for the extra moist and it would be fine. 3 yrs dealing Calatheas that what has work for me, because all that other type of soil at this time it will start getting bugs, any way your doing fine just repot and you should be okay, P.S good luck that's what has work for me. See for your self , a picture of one mine, Calathea Corona

Petrushka:

That pot is 11.5 inches. This plant is huge. And the picture I took only has a mm or so of water in the tray, but after I water, believe me, the tray is ALMOST FULL of water. I had taken that picture a day or so after watering.

It's been in Miracle grow potting mix for the past.....almost two years. And I'm not sure the thickness of the pot, but it is a heavy glazed clay pot, so your measurements sound right.

This plant is almost three feet from the top to the bottom and almost four feet across when it's in full day light and opened all the way. Here is a better shot

Here's another one.

that's quite large for a pot.i don't think it should be necessary to go larger then that. be curious if anybody has a larger plant then yours and in what pot and what soil.
hope you indulge my curiosity further :). is your pot glazed inside or not? is the bottom glazed? because if not - it'll absorb a lot of water thru the bottom and possibly all the way to the top, which might account for slurping it up and then slowly releasing it to the soil.
how moist is the soil when you water? the chopstick will tell.
there are tubers underneath, proly close to where the new leaves are coming from. stick a chopstick like 1-2" from the rim deeply. you'll be able to judge how moist is the soil deeper down. the finer the chopstick point, the easier it is to push it down. actually a long skewer will work too, but dull the point a bit - they might pierce the roots. it's like the cake test.
you can actually leave the skewer in the same hole and do checks for sev days to see how it changes (and to minimize the chance of root/tuber piercing). you'll def know if it's dry/damp/wet and to which height.
there isn't any detailed info on these plants - that's why i am digging...trying to get to the bottom of it :)))).

Rick, do you know the Cal species you posted Apr 7th? It's a beauty for sure.
I've never seen a Cal with those colors.
Where did you find it? Toni

The pot is glazed only on the outside.

And I would say when I water again the soil is very, very moist. Almost wet. I don't ever let it get dry......ever.

When the the saucer is bone dry, I wait a couple days, then water until the saucer is full again. But the soil itself NEVER dries out.

Specosia- I saw the pot (reddish). That had the attached bottom. I just had problems out of a planter very similar. I have found out that if the bottom is attached and it is all glazed, it will withhold water like crazy! I'm not ever potting anything in it! I hope your plant is doing well!

That plant has been in that pot for almost two years. It's not attached either. Actually the saucer underneath is for a 13.5 inch pot. It's way over sized. When I bought the pot they didn't have the right sized saucer to match.....

Cj-Speciosa, your plant looks in Excellent shape, why bother repotting, unless its bothering you.the only oppinion that i would give you is to remember that Calatheas are slow growers and when being repoted you tend to damage the rooting without knowing it so you have to be very caeful when doing so.Remember that the calathea plants are very delicit in the rooting because they tend to get stress while repotting so keep that in mind if you do repot it, one other thing if you do make shore that the next pot is the same way glazed at the bottom like mine are because the other ones tend to absorbe the water from the bottom. Any way Cj your good and i wish you good luck with your palnt it`s beautiful. P.S If any mor questions feel free to write back . Slickrick. one other thing that is the max grown higth for the Calathea plant

Anotherone my Calatheas, it`s all i grow the most. there hard to keep up with but ones you understand them you will not have Problems, there like Babys they need special care, Enjoy

To all of you successful calathea/marantha posters, what kind of light are you putting your plants in that keeps them so happy? I've been experimenting but can't seem to find the right spot.

rick, your plants are fantastic.
i finally risked getting smth related, but easier to grow: stromante tricolor. bare-rooted and divided into 3 plants - 6" pots in exoticforest 'jungle mix' with extra perlite (up to about 40% approx) - once they start growing they'll be on self-watering wicks. for now i put them on a heating pad and enclosed in plastic to keep humidity very high. in dappled very good western light. after a month there are sings of growth: new leaves beginning to extend.

Hello there! I think you have a good choice in plants the trio star / Stromanthe which is there real name. They are one of the most beautiful plants with attraction in color and foliage, and they are related to the Calathea and need the same care. Just remember two special care for them and there're be great, one is the humidity , the lighting and water which is the most important of all, I think you have the idea on there care so all you have to do is apply it . I my self just Finished with some I grew from cuttings myself and my trick is keeping the soil moist and now I keep them away from any windows with 15 watt bulb and they love it. Good luck and enjoy your trio star there beautiful good luckð»ðº

Most of these are from the ones I cut back to during this summer which needed to because of there foliage were wearing out so I just cut them back and this is the results,My three years with them and struggle with them this is the how it turn out, there my favorites Stromanthe,Calathea there the most excellent Foliage plants any one can have indoors, remember there water PH level has to stay btw 5.0,5.6 and water them ones week, Any way to all who love Calathea plants there gorgeous plant all they need loving care with attention . If you want you can see all my plants at my Garden page on Facebook ,slickrick20032001@yahoo.com any help I can give ill be glad to help good luck to all.ðºð»ðÂÂÂ

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