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Calathea with Yellow Leaves

cazzie
13 years ago

Hi,

My calathea has gained a few unwanted crisp yellow leaves (usually green). I really want to trim them off, would this be advisable?

Also, does anyone have any idea why they have turned this way? The plant was in a sorry state when I inherited it from the previous tenants of my flat. I have since re-potted it (as its previous pot had no drainage holes) and placed it in a room that gets plenty of indirect sunlight (as it was previously placed in a south facing window).

The humidity is very low so I have began misting it daily. I plan to invest in a pebble tray, I just havent got round to that yet.

Any advice would be fab,

Thanks

Comments (43)

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    13 years ago

    Oh yes .... forgot - there are a number or cultural conditions that might have caused the dying leaves, but to narrow it down, you'd prolly have to answer some questions or provide a lot more info than what you've so far shared. It's unlikely the misting is doing any good at all, even though they require high humidity.

    Direct sun is not at all a good thing, and that it was previously in a pot with no drain hole virtually ensures that it was subjected to high soluble salt levels in the soil - probably the main cause of ratty foliage on slowly declining plants.

    Al

  • rasha_derbala_GMAIL_COM
    12 years ago

    my calathea had some leaves turned yellow after a hot day althought i mist and water it regularly and put in indirect sunlight how can i stop turning the rest of the leave to yellow

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    12 years ago

    Maintaining plants with largely unspoiled foliage is not dependant on misting, or regular watering beyond supplying the plant's needs appropriately. By that I mean that you should water on an as-needed basis, rather than on a schedule. If your plants have burned leaf tips and or margins, you'd be wiser to focus your energies on determining the actual reason for the spoiled foliage (usually over-watering or a high level of soluble salts in the soil) than to rely on ineffectual misting in the hope it can keep the actual cause of the spoiled foliage in check - it won't, and often creates other unwanted issues.

    Determining the actual cause of the yellowing foliage would require more info. The odds-on favorite would be over-watering, but you would need to eliminate insect infestations, nutritional deficiencies, a poor/compacted soil (which goes hand in hand w/over-watering) pH issues, and a few other possibilities. Actually, the best detective work, when trying to isolate problems, is done by checking possibilities off the list that you have determined to be non-issues. Usually, it leaves you with one or two possibilities that are relatively easy to choose between ..... but again, that requires more input from you.

    It's a whole lot easier to look at tending houseplants as a holistic system. If you start with a poor soil, the foundation of your planting, you're going to be fighting it in one form or another for the life of the planting. Your soil is the most important decision you'll make when it comes to tending plants. It determines how easy/difficult your job will be, how large the margin for error is, and it plays a very significant role in determining the level of satisfaction you'll ultimately glean from your efforts. Most of the problems that are discussed on this forum are directly related to a poor soil and/or the inhibited vitality that is tied directly to a weak root system. Roots are the heart of the plant, and if the roots aren't happy - ain't no part of the plant happy.

    Al

  • birdsnblooms
    12 years ago

    Cazzie.. Calatheas are fussy, difficult plants..You mentioned your Cal was in a sorry state from the previous tenants care. Or lack of....

    You asked why your Cal was having problems. I find a few reasons. No drainage holes, possibly dry air, and facing a south window. Of course, if south was obstructed, or the Cal was several feet away, light wouldn't be the culprit. But, heat would be.

    When you took possession, 'because of its condition,' it was similiar to starting one step back. It'll take two steps foreward before your Calathea resumes beauty and health.

    When foliage browns/yellows, I trim edges, leaving aproximately 1/8th inch of brown/discoloration on the leaf.

    If cut in healthy green sections, there's a good chance the brown/yellow will spread.
    Leaves that are 80% brown or yellow or more are removed entirely. That particular leaf will never revert to green.

    It's important nutrients focus on healthy leaves..another reason discolored leaf/ves should be removed.

    Since you've taken over, sounds like you've made proper care choices, but it will take time. Resuming back to its originally healthy state will take twice as long to undo what the previous tenants did...As I stated in my first sentence, Cals are fussy/difficult plants.

    Aside from trimming discolored leaves, the only other suggestion I'd like to add is, place in a room that isn't too hot. Doesn't matter which season, or whether or not heat is from strong sunlight or artificial heat.

    Do not overwater, or keep soil constantly wet. Test soil before watering. If it's moist, wait a few days and retest. Once the soil looks/feels crumbly, give a hearty drink, water entire rootball.

    Until your Cal regains health, withhold fertilizer. Instead, if you can get hold of a root stimulant, like Superthrive, use this product. You'll be amazed.

    Caltheas should never be over-potted..they prefer snug-fitting roots.

    Well-draining soil, with a handful of true soil, is best. Depending on the species, some do better in shallow containers, since roots tend to spread horizontally.

    Keep misting, and don't forget a weekly shower. Good luck, Toni

    Spraying leaves and setting on stones/trays helps with humidity. Showering in sink, even once a week, perks up foliage.


  • skatelynmat
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Hi there, @birdsnblooms, you say that calathea prefer snug potting? I may have overdone it with the big beautiful pot I bought for it! Is it okay to reduce pot sizes now? I repotted it in its larger home about two weeks ago. There's definitely enough soil in this pot to reuse in the new pot, thus I believe I won't risk overfertilization. I need help! Some leaves have yellowed, but the plant is still very perky and about 90 percent dark green.


    EDIT: Mine is a calathea ornata.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    No plant prefers to be snug in the pot, but sometimes keeping your plant rootbound is the lesser evil between root congestion and soil saturation. Your plant absolutely prefers room for roots to run. If your plant gets to the stage of root congestion where the root/soil mass can be lifted from the pot intact, growth rate and vitality are already being negatively impacted.

    The idea that any plant likes to be rootbound arises from a lack of understanding of how much influence soil choice has on pot size. The single most important influence on what size pot is appropriate for your plant is soil choice. If you're using an appropriate soil, you can plant the tiniest seedling in a 55 gallon drum (if you have a mind to) w/o issues.

    FWIW - there is a significant amount of misinformation in the post above yours, so I would suggest you do not incorporate it into your care regimen.

    Something I wrote about size:

    How
    large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the
    relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working
    with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with
    "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but
    "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic
    understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically
    determines appropriate container size.


    It's
    often parroted that you should only move up one container size when
    "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a
    container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too
    long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant
    material you are working with, and the physical properties of the
    soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of
    appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of
    container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may
    even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you
    will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil
    you choose. It's not uncommon for me, after a repot/root-pruning to
    pot in containers as small as 1/5 the size as that which the plant
    had been growing in prior to the work.


    Plants
    grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be
    grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can
    use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root
    issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting
    factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that
    accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root
    function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root
    constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches
    and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the
    goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you
    have your sights set on.


    Conversely,
    rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in
    very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required -
    so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large
    containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very
    large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive.
    This is a key point.


    We
    know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size
    and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As
    particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at
    about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer
    hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS
    well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully
    saturated).


    So,
    if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of
    particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to
    container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower
    size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow
    room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain
    the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the
    ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of
    fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the
    container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a
    sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient
    delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large
    plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed
    and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very
    small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is
    fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no,
    or very little perched water.


    I
    have just offered clear illustration why the oft repeated advice to
    ‘resist pottting up more than one pot size at a time’, only
    applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using
    well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions. As the ht
    and volume of the perched water table are reduced, the potential for
    negative effects associated with over-potting are diminished in a
    direct relationship with the reduction - up to the point at which the
    soil holds no (or an insignificant amount) of perched water and
    over-potting pretty much becomes a non-issue.


    Al

  • skatelynmat
    6 years ago

    Thank you so much! That was incredibly helpful.

  • n Y
    6 years ago

    Going through some grief with my own Calathea I purchased a few months ago. Kept getting worse and worse with the crispy brown leaves showing up more and more no matter how much misting, pebble tray and showering I've done so I put it out on my balcony, hoping the outdoors will help it.... nope. I searched and searched for remedies and just stumbled across this thread. It's very helpful and I'm going to implement Al's suggestions and bring my plant back indoors.

  • skatelynmat
    6 years ago

    The advice is great! I will say, my Calathea has come back to life outside. It stays completely shaded at all times, and Arkansas's current high heat + high humidity is giving it new leaves left and right! I have a ruby ficus that is revived by the outdoors as well, but now my anthurium is the problem child in its refusal to flower! Haha

  • n Y
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    this is the state of my calathea. It use to be beautiful and I tried really hard to keep it happy. After reading all related threads on this site, I've flushed out the plant and repotted in my own 5-1-1 mix using coir mulch instead of pine/fir bark, I know Al's opinion and experiments with coir vs pine and if the difference is a small size plant, I'm OK with it as long as the leaves are back to being beautiful. Plus, it was all I have in my micro apartment here in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Pine/fir bark come in enormous bags here. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and knowledge, -especially Al. I will post an after shot if I the state of my calathea changes.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    Hoping for the best, nY.

    The pH and chemical issues associated with coir and CHCs affect each genus, even species, to varying degrees. I don't presume to know as a certainty, but it's a possibility that genus Calathea is one more sensitive than others to its effects. Please don't give up on the concept embodied in the 5:1:1 mix, or the gritty mix, for that matter, even if it takes a little more experimenting with or adjustments to ingredients.

    Take care.


    Al

  • pie111
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Hi! My Calathea is going through similar problems. I know I may have over-watered her at one point, but now I have reduced the watering to a need-to-drink basis. I have also eliminated direct sunlight and gone for a north-facing room. I am wanting to check the soil and I am confused about what constitutes the best soil. You are talking about a 5:1:1 mix. What does that actually mean please? Also, I googled 'best soil for calathea' and I found this: 'A good potting mix consists of one part soil, two parts peat moss and two parts perlite. A good quality African violet mix will also meet these requirements.'

    Please could someone elaborate? Many thanks.

    Caddie

  • litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
    6 years ago

    Here's a thread by Al that gets into the down-and-dirty of soils and includes the recipes for Al's 5:1:1 and 1:1:1 mixes toward the bottom of the initial post:

    Container Soils - Water Movement And Retention XXI

    Do scan through the replies because there's a lot of great practical discussion about the hows and whys OS it all. And feel free to ask more questions, of course.

  • pie111
    6 years ago

    Thank you Litterbuggy - going to have a look. :)

  • n Y
    6 years ago
    The update on the Calathea since changing soil to a more coco coir based is not so great. The plant didn't look like it as getting better or worse; these black spots appeared on all the leaves today, -what caused it? pH balance issue? I did overhead water with spritzer yesterday. But maybe it is the mistake with subbing coco coir mulch instead of using the proper soil ingredients for 5-1-1. A learning experience, it has been. Is the plant still worth saving? I have the ingredients now to make the proper soil.
  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    6 years ago

    Difficult to say with any degree of precision what might have gone awry. There are several potential issues that need to be addressed when coir and CHCs are used as a significant fraction of a medium for containerized plants. If you're unfamiliar with how to address the issues, you're pretty much destined to bear the burden of dealing with them. Wishing on your behalf for the best, and that you're able to get things turned around.

    Al

  • robin98
    6 years ago

    Black spots - fungal? Bacterial? I'd say cut the leaf off but it looks like your last one! Keep the water off it. Your plant will be more susceptible to everything in the state it's in.

    Options - leave it as is and watch it die, throw it away and put both of you out of your misery, or try repotting into different soil. We've all killed plants, so don't feel too bad. You could buy another plant and put your new soil mix and all you've learned into play, you'd have a better chance of success now.

    They're tricky plants. Need humidity, bright indirect light, not too hot or too cold, no drafts, moist but aerated free draining soil. I'd adjust the 511 to make it a bit more water retentive... Let us know if you try to save it!

  • n Y
    6 years ago
    Thanks you guys for the advices and well-wishes. After my recent post, the black spots turned out to be the start of the dry-crinkling that took over the leaves. I recall that I did accidentally sprayed the leaves with baking soda water before the black spots appeared... I un-potted the plant and stuck it in a jar of water gels until I heard from someone who tried growing it in water how horrible it turned. I'm down to 3 leaves with any colour. Just repotted in proper 5-1-1 mix today. Must say, soil looks prettier than plant. Is it normal for the stem to be dark purple at the base that gradually gets green toward the leaf? One of the younger, greener stem is soft and wilting, -should I cut it off?

    The person who told me her attempt to grow Calathea in water 6 years ago said it's now in soil and still alive and slowly recovering. I may have this ugly plant for several years to remind me of my novice year with houseplants. :)
  • Sarah-Jo Kalesnick
    6 years ago

    Hi I'm new here found this thread while trying to help for my calathea Freddie. A few leaves were yellow and I'm pretty sure they were newly grown leaves that had turn yellow. Now my nice healthy big leaves are turning yellow and the edges are getting brown and crisp. I've taken sharp sissors and cut the edges and already cut the yellow leaves as they come at the base of the plant. There's been three so far but it's worrisome as something is wrong and my good leaves are changing. I mist every night and she loves it she's had so much growth since I've bought the plant I haven't had an issue and I've had the plant for about a month. Now this morning some of the stems look a little droopy around the edges they usually stand up tall. Just seems there hanging low. A little lifeless. I have been taking such good care of this plant, I bought top of the line soil from a local nursery locally made which I thought maybe that's why this is happing cause I transplanted it a few weeks ago because the pot was tiny tiny from the nursery I got it from and the roots were coming out of the bottom. But she was fine after the transplant and were weeks after that. I'm clueless but I don't want my plant to die!! I'm unsure if it's something I did or the nursery maybe being in that small pot I'm unsure how well they took care of it considering all the edges were brown when I got it. But the leaves are still changing yellow so clearly it's an ongoing issue. Thank you for any help!!


  • n Y
    6 years ago
    Hi Sarah-Jo-Kalesnick,
    This would not be considered professional opinion but a Youtuber I follow finally did an episode on prayer plants care today you might want to check out:


    All my leaves are all gone but the root is still firm and I got 2 brand new shoots coming out ever since my last post. It's recovered since repotting in 5-1-1 mix, watering with distilled water, and tenting it to give a greenhouse humid environment. And maybe coming out of dormancy(?).

    Good luck,
    nY
  • Ashley Miller
    6 years ago

    My calathea is dying any advice?

  • robin98
    6 years ago

    Really dry, been in the sun, gotten too hot?

  • Sage TX 9a
    6 years ago

    Trim off the black scorched leaves. Put the pot in a bucket/sink and let it soak in tepid (not hot or cold) water for 15 minutes. Repot into a better mix & while you're repotting, take a moment to snip any dead or unhealthy roots. Protect from all drafts, including normal air conditioning and heat. Supply a dedicated humidifier to keep humidity higher than 60% (at minimum). The leaves should unfurl once the plant is rehydrated, unless they're too far gone, but it's all for naught if you can't provide a humid enough environment.

    Basically, think of calatheas like amphibians. They don't want to be wet all the time but they need ready access to moisture and constant shelter from heat and wind.

  • n Y
    6 years ago
    Ashley, I agree with Sage and Robin. Your calathea looks like it’s suffering from heat and dehydration. The curled up leaves usually mean it’s protecting itself from heat, direct sun, and moisture loss. And I agree about keeping the humidity around it high. I managed to spring my calathea back to life by keeping wet sphagnum moss around it and keeping a dome over it. Humidifier is better idea.
  • robin98
    6 years ago

    nY, glad to hear your plant has improved, post photos if you can, everybody loves an update! Especially a happy one. Have the leaves from the new shoots opened? I find that happens really slowly, it’s excruciating. But satisfying, to have kept the bl*#@y thing alive ;)

    Do you know what your humidity inside is? Obviously you’ve found ways to increase it locally for the calathea, but I’m just curious what it is in your house generally, if you don’t mind me asking.

  • Ashley Miller
    6 years ago

    What materials do you use to tent your plant? I’m new to calatheas and don’t fully understand what tenting involves. With the Sphagnum moss can you buy it at a Home Depot type of store and do you put it in the same pot as your plant?

  • n Y
    6 years ago
    Ashley, to "tent" my recovering calathea, I used an old plastic food container, turned up-side-down, to tent but left some gaps for gases to escape. It keeps humidity and, because of the translucent plastic, acts as filter if any direct light comes into the room. I have pictures below of DIY tenting, including the one I did. I have found that I RARELY re-water or re-wet the moss since keeping my calathea under this cover. I have also done tenting with cellophane wrapped around the plant like a gift basket, leaving enough gap for gas to escape, and I have used clear plastic bags over my sundew and other carnivorous plants, and poke holes in them.

    As for the Sphagnum moss, I lay them on top of the soil around the stems and in my maidenhair fern, I put the wet sphagnum moss between its actual pot and the outer-pot. I prefer long strands sphagnum moss over reindeer or preserved moss because it is much easier to see and feel if it's getting dry and prompt me to take action. I don't mist anymore because this was just more effective for me. Depending on where you live, your Home Depot like stores may carry long stands sphagnum. I got mine from a mid-size chain store here in Canada. the bag I got it in called it "Floral Moss" but upon reading the actual ingredient, it was sphagnum. Just make sure it's sphagnum moss and not sphagnum peat.

    Robin98, to answer your question, my 500sf condo has regular home humidity. I think its about 40% in summer and can drop to 30% in winter. With cooling fan, the rice cooker, and hot kettle going a few meters away, the place can get to 60% humidity for very short time. We did try having a humidifier in the kitchen and it was just too much for us and our artbooks, -we have a lot of art and books. We do get very good air circulation with the rainforest air coming through when the windows are ajar. I included a couple of pictures of my recovering calathea. Almost threw it out after the last leaf dried out, but the stems left were still firm and I saw 2 tiny green shoots above the soil line, so I keep it. So glad because look at the gorgeous magenta leaf and another one on the way. The other shoot still not moving much... thank you, Robin98 and Al Tapla for the help.
  • robin98
    6 years ago

    Amazing vivid leaf colour - is that more magenta than the old leaves ever had?

  • n Y
    6 years ago
    Yes Robin98, it's far more vivid and magenta that its late siblings. Then again, this is still a young leaf, smaller than 2" diameter. Its siblings' leaves were each slightly bigger than the palm of my hand, 6" approximately.
  • pie111
    6 years ago

    Hi All,

    I'd posted earlier about my calathea, which had really more or less died a death. However I took Al's advice about the soil, got the ingredients, mixed it all up in a tiny quantity (enormous bag of perlite still awaiting further use!), put it in a ceramic pot in a north-facing window near the sink to be misty and warmish, watering and feeding sparingly but regularly and the plant has been showing signs of resurrection. However there is some leaf damage still, even on a new leaf just now unfurling. I wonder what I can do to alleviate this problem. Any ideas anyone? I am determined to find the right answer.

    Caddie


  • n Y
    6 years ago
    Nice recovery, pie111. Looks beautiful. Many calathea houseplant owners in my city swear by watering only with distilled water. Even though my city tap water is great, it tends to get soil a bit too alkaline and maybe there are other minerals in my tap water calatheas are sensitive to. So, I tried the distilled water route... so far, so good.
  • pie111
    6 years ago

    Thank you nY! I've been quietly pleased I must admit. I'm going to try distilled water as suggested. I also really liked the video you posted a while back from Homestead Brooklyn. Thanks for that.

  • stephanieross2013
    5 years ago

    Hello, All!


    I am fairly new to caring for plants and the guy at Home Depot said that Calatheas are super easy to care for...as I’ve done some research I now know that isn’t the case, they are very finicky! My poor plant’s leaves are turning yellow and brown on the edges. The soil is moist and I’ve been watering it every other or every 2-3 days. I don’t know if that’s too much or too little for it or what. It is in indirect sunlight and I keep the apartment between 65-72 degrees at all times, and I mist it often. I’ve even got a humidifier in the same room. It has been put into a new pot with “indoor plant” soil. Any advice?

  • n Y
    5 years ago

    Hi stephanieross2013,

    Hope your plant is hanging in there for you. It's gorgeous. Sorry that we didn't reply as quickly but this is a very old thread and you may get better/quicker feedback of you started your own thread. 2-3 days watering sounds like drenching the plant for my soil and my environment but I don't know if you need more watering than I do. If you have read through this and other threads and find that you still don't know how to approach your calathea, I recommend starting your own thread and post under houseplants.

  • J Estela
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Hello,

    I'm knew to owning a calathea and it's been doing really well so far except for now it has 2 yellow leaves and it's odd because of the way its yellowed. Can someone help me pinpoint what it may be. I've read many articles and I can't seem to figure out what the cause is. I'm not over watering, and it is very humid and I provide extra humidity. I don't think I'm under watering it's not in direct sun but it does have a nice bright spot. I've provided a picture.


  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    3 years ago

    Look carefully to see if those are the oldest leaves on the stems. Have you been fertilizing? With what? How do you tell when it's time to water? Looks like the plant is in its original soil and you're using a cache pot? Are you watering to beyond the point of saturation, so 20-30% of the water applied exits the drain hole? After you water, is the plant allowed to sit in the effluent that exits the drain hole and reabsorb it?


    Al

  • J Estela
    3 years ago

    Thanks for responding. I don't know how to tell if they are the oldest leaves. When I received it I did re-pot it in this plastic pot and it does have drainage holes at bottom I also place a plate with rocks under and often put water in the plate making sure the water does not touch the pot. I have a bamboo stick in the dirt to check for dryness and I also check with my finger. When I first got it home and re-potted I did put fertilizer (miracle grow pellets, 2) that was exactly one month ago. I believe I water well but i could be wrong.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    The oldest leaves on the plant would be attached to the stem/crown proximal to (closer to the roots than) all other leaves. If they are the oldest leaves, I wouldn't be too concerned, but if it starts to involve other leaves, you/we would need to look closer for a definable cause. I would suggest you skip the fertilizer pellets and start using something that gives you better control. Foliage-Pro has long been about the best choice on the market. I sort of keep an eye on new stuff as it becomes available, and I've seen nothing available that's better. If you want the list re why I think that, I'd be happy to provide it.



    If you keep your plants indoors in summer, and ARE flushing the soil when you water, you'd be fertilizing about every 4th time you water. In the winter, you'd still be fertilizing every 4th time you water, but at a lower rate - say half. To keep track of how many times you've watered each plant, drop a marble, button, or equal on top of the soil. When there are 3 objects in/on the pot and it's time to water the 4th time, it's time to fertilize.

    Al

  • J Estela
    3 years ago

    Really, thank you so much. I snipped off the yellow leaves from the base so far so good. I will purchase the foliage pro. I do think they may have been older leaves because it hasn't spread. I appreciate the help. Have a great day!

  • Jessika Chan
    3 years ago

    Hi! I'm glad this thread is still alive despite it being 10 years old! :D Just what I need—I've had a Calathea Zebrina for almost 6 weeks. A week after getting it, leaves started turning yellow, browning, and shriveling up. I was able to asses that it lacked humidity and fixed it with a humidifier on it's 5th week with me. Since then, leaves stalled their yellowing but I'm down to two good leaves. Now on it's 6th week with me, I noticed one of the good leaves started browning from the bottom (near the stem). Not sure what else to do! I've been keeping the soil moist, checking it everyday. I have the humidifier going nearly 24/7 for a week now. Should I be patient and wait for new growth? Should I do something to jumpstart it? I watched a video on Youtube where someone put a bag over her Calathea and it rejuvenated after 3-4 weeks. Does that help? The seller of the plant suggested I put a few pieces of osmocote to encourage growth, but I'm afraid of fertilizer burn. I just really want to save her. Thank you!


    Some notes that might help:

    • 53-65% Humidity at night or when the air conditioner is running (with humidifier)

    • 70-95% Humidity during the day with humidifier

    • 2.5-3 meters from my North East facing window, it has bright indirect light

    • It's beside a Fishbone plant and an Adansonii

    • I live in a city of a tropical country


    -J


  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    3 years ago

    If the top of the soil is constantly moist, you're over-watering. Please show an image of the plant and the pot it's in, with something in the image to help with a size reference. By what metric do you determine when it's time to water? You'll need to get the plant on a nutritional supplementation program, if you're not comfortable doing that on your own, I can offer guidance.


    Al

  • Mewper
    3 years ago

    Please help!

    I got my calathea fishbone over a month ago; i placed it in a plastic pot in my bathroom and its gotten healthier since. However, a few days ago, I repotted it into a clay pot and started misting it a lot since i thought it would help. Now a few leaves have gone yellow and crisp at the edges, to the point that it goes completely dried up in just a few days! It’s not turning yellow as a whole plant, just a few select leaves here and there, however i’ve gotten 3 dried up leaves in less than a week already, so i’m pretty sure its not just the mature leaves dying. I could be overwatering it, because i’m admittedly bad at checking soil moisture; it could also be the fertilizer i put that‘s causing the yellowing. I’m sure its not the sun, because my bathroom isn’t all too sunny to begin with. What do I do? How do I save an overwatered Calathea? What if they’re both my problem, how do I solve that? I read that to fix overfertilizing, you water it a few times in a row to drain/flush it out, but then won’t this be equivalent to me overwatering it as well? Could I also be overmisting it? I mist mine around 5-6 times a day.

    please help i’ve only started taking care of plants a month ago so i’m very new. This plant is the first I ever bought so it means a lot to me. I really want to save it :(


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