Anytime you re-pot a plant you can expect some reaction.
The soil is changed from what it has got used to, its need to send its roots out into the strange soil may cause it to slow down, reject or stop taking up nutrition.
If you went up more than one size of pot, the roots may reject so much food being offered.
It may just put up a fuss for a short time and maybe bloom the next cycle.

This plant exudes a very toxic sap. Where it is naturally grown, the natives use the sap to poison the tips of their arrows when hunting.

MMmmm, ungawa...much heapum poison.

My guess is it needs several hours of direct sun to get it to bloom...if you can place it in direct sun, fertilize and hopefully you will see some blooms. Good Luck!

As for the watering comments, they're all right depending on what conditions you're growing in. When the plant is in active growth it can take a lot of water and should be treated like any other tropical houseplant. When it's dormant or not actively growing, watering should be cut back until growth resumes. The cactus mix you've planted it in is likely fine, as long as you're willing to water that much more often while it's growing. During the summer months, when it should be growing, it will tell you it's getting enough water by putting out lots of healthy new leaves. If you don't give it enough water the leaves will drop.

puglvr1 - that's a gorgeous plant. I wish I lived in an area where I could keep it outdoors all year long. Mine grows so much slower this far north.

Tyler

I do trim mine, once or twice a year, I prefer the bushier,wider look as opposed to tall and lanky, but that's me...I have a tendency to over-protect mine. I bring mine in or cover it with a thick blanket when the temps dip below 50. But have heard of others that leave it out in colder temps. I just never want to take a chance ever since I left mine out once when it got down below 40 and all the leaves fell off shorty after...it took a few months to recover. Thanks for the nice compliment...

Here is a link that someone posted on the Cacti/Succulent forum...its a great article

Remember I live in FL...don't see where you live? If your weather is warm and will stay warm for several more weeks(6-8)weeks like here, I would go ahead and prune. If you are just starting to enter fall weather, I would wait till spring. It will put out new growth just below the cut, sometimes a few new growths on one stem, depending on plant. I do not seal any of my cuts, but take precaution as the sap can be toxic, some are allergic to the sap. Use gloves if you have to...

Here is a pic below of what my plant looked like a few weeks after I pruned some of the branches(new growths have appeared...) Good luck!

Chris, your Desert Rose, most likely refrained from blooming because it was repotted. Like you said, it has grown, but hasn't flowered. Seems they do best when potbound and get plenty of sun. Direct sun.
Growth is possibly focusing on roots..ever notice when mature specimens are sold, they're underpotted?
I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with those who water a lot in summer...it depends on soil, pot size, and light.

I started some from seed about 3 years ago and they are interesting looking but have not yet bloomed (I started them in Winnipeg, where there is lots of sun but not much time when they can go out, and they are now in Montreal and in for the winter). I appreciate the culture info, especially for northern climes where they can't spend much time outdoors.

Pug can you use the pieces you prune for new plants? Joe

I actually do trim mine at least once a year. In the first year or two, I have trimmed it twice to get it more fuller/bushier. I also Up-potted it once or twice a year(Raised the Caudex). I took this pic today, its been a little over three months since I pruned 60% of the branch tips and root pruned 1/4 of roots in(early June).

Winnnjoe, Thanks!...I have only done this once, tried rooting the cuttings, but for some reason didn't have much luck(it rotted), I haven't tried it again since...

Don't trim until new growth starts after dormant period.
You can always trim down then, and the new growth will pop right out pushing out new stuff when coming out of dormancy.

I've only gotten blooms on a purchased plant this year. Pretty stuff, but the ends of the branches are long and lanky, doomed to the chopping block next spring!

I also have to disagree on the careful watering admonishment at the beginning but do have to agree that watering MUST be timed with active growing periods. I did make 'mush soup' earlier this year, so careful watering during certain times of year is Very Wise. My oldest adenium was a timed experiment by my local Cactus & Succulent Society; they provided adenium starts in three inch pots to all who wished to participate in a one year study as to whom could increase the size the most. Our current president of the C&S Society won that contest handily, starting out with a three inch potted specimen and ending with something bulging the sides of a one gallon pot in less than 11 months. That only happens with LOTS of Water!

The short, stumpy adenium (with five branches) in the other post is my specimen from that experiment. This next year I have plenty of courage to expand my skills and it's diameter!

Good luck with Your experiment!

Josh

Maybe this year will be different. Cena, the experiment/contest sounds fun.

-David

David. You water once during dormancy? Do all leaves drop in winter?
Another thing. Since leaves are burning, you probably need to move plants in brighter light at a slower pace.
Are you growing baby (offshoots) or mature plants? Mature Broms don't need full sun. Once they flower, although it's a slow process, they're actually dying a little each day. When sideshoots form, removed and potted, bright light is needed. My offshoots were never placed in direct sun. A year after removing from mom, a beautiful, pink/blue flower grew from the urn. Grown in a shady south from the time it was removed from mom. A. fasciata.

DR's are another thing. They need direct sun. If they're in low light for long periods, acclimating gradually will prevent leaf burn.

Hey there, Josh.... Toni