The white fluff could be residue because you're running the humidifier. Don't know without pictures.

It's definitely a fuzzy mold. I found the same mold on a couple of plants that weren't in the bedroom. They were in a potting mix that was too eat-heavy and had stayed wet for a couple weeks.

I know I've seen remedies. I just can't find them now. Was in vinegar?

Plants live in harmony with thousands on thousands of species of mold & fungi, so it's doubtful that, if it really is a species of mold/fungi, that it's harmful. Allowing your 'too wet' plants to dry down to more appropriate levels will almost certainly affect the environment preferred by the unwanted visitor in a negative way, making it too inhospitable for it to hang around.

I'm not saying this in a mean-spirited or sarcastic way, but I think I would exert my energies in the direction of learning about how to make a more appropriate soil or learning how to deal with the soil you're using.

Al

Hi Al,
I am new to mixing soil and had already bought bagged varieties before I started reading here. BUT, I have been adding quite a bit of perlite to my mixes to lgihten them up. The Jade cuttings are in almost all perlite and it was bone dry, but this fuzzy, white stuff still coated the top. Now that the humidifier has been off for a few days, it appears to be going away and the plants don't appear to be damaged at all. I promise I will work on making better mixes once I use up what I've already spent money on (and have more money to buy supplies ;) ). In the meantime, at least all of my plants have been given a mix a step above what comes out of the bag. Baby steps, right?

I think I have the same mold on my Scilla violacea (Also called Ledebouria socialis), Elephant ear plant, and caladium. They are all on the same windowsill in front of my kitchen sink. I have read to spray Lysol. I'm hesitant to try this as I'm not sure if it is harmful to my plants.

TJ

Whatever you're comfortable with, Kim. I try to make sure you know what your options are, and offer any help you might need (and that I think I might be able to provide), then let you do the decidin' w/o me pushin'. ;-) I don't really have a stake in what anyone grows in, but I always feel better when I know folks at least have enough information to allow them to take advantage of opportunities I know can have a significant impact on their success, if they choose.

BTW - are you using FE or other organic soil amendments/fertilizers as a nutrition source?

Al

Oh, I appreciate your advice and plan on making up your gritty mix and using that at some point. I'm just learning about how to really take care of my plants, so I'm trying not to get too ahead of myself. :)

Since I have no idea what FE is, I don't think I'm adding it to my mix. I am working from bagged mixes. For my succulents I'm using the Miracle Grow Cactus Mix and adding perlite to break up some of the peat. I'm hoping that the bagged mix had enough fertilizer in it to do the trick for now. Is that way off-base?

FE is fish emulsion - sorry. ;o) You'll often see a significant increase in mold/fungi/algae/odors when you use organic fertilizers or soil amendments, which is why I asked.

Some commercially prepared potting soils contain a small charge of fertilizer, or in come cases, a controlled release fertilizer like Osmocote. In all cases, the amount of fertilizer would be small. If you have to wonder if your chosen potting soil contains any fertilizer, it's a pretty safe bet it doesn't. If the manufacturer/packager had added fertilizer, they would consider that fact to be a major swelling point, and it would be splashed all over the bag in large bold letters.

You're much better off to approach container culture with a willingness to shoulder the entire responsibility for your plants' nutritional needs, relying on the soil for nothing in the way of nutrients. The small amount of nutrition present in a soilless medium is almost entirely locked in the hydrocarbon chains that make up the organic fraction of the soil, making supplemental fertilizing a virtual necessity in order to avoid deficiencies.

This is a little something I wrote on another thread about the futility of trying to amend a water retentive soil with perlite or other large particles. I hope you find it interesting

"I've been offered a good opportunity to explain something about the (lack of) efficacy in trying to amend heavy bagged soils by adding some perlite, so I'll expound a little, basing what I offer on science and my own practical experience.

Perlite doesn't change the drainage characteristics of a soil or the height of the PWT. To visualize this, think of how well a pot full of BBs would drain (perlite), then think of how poorly a pot full of pudding would drain (bagged soil). Even mixing the pudding and BBs together 1:1 in a third pot yields a mix that retains the drainage characteristics and PWT height of the pudding. It's only after the BBs become the largest fraction of the mix (60-75%) that drainage & PWT height begins to improve.

You cannot add coarse material to fine material and improve drainage & the ht of the PWT. Use the same example as above & replace the pudding with play sand or peat moss - you see the same results. The benefit in adding perlite to heavy soils doesn't come from the fact that they drain better. The fine peat or pudding particles simply 'fill in' around the perlite, so drainage & the ht of the PWT remains the same. All perlite does in heavy soils is occupy space that would otherwise be full of water. Perlite simply reduces the amount of water a soil is capable of holding because it is not internally porous. IOW - all it does is take up space.

If you want to profit from a soil that offers superior drainage and aeration, you need to build it into the soil from the start, by ensuring that the soil is primarily comprised of particles much larger than those in peat/compost/coir, which is why the recipes I suggest as starting points all direct readers to START with the foremost fraction of the soil being large particles, to ensure excellent aeration. From there, if you choose, you can add an appropriate volume of finer particles to increase water retention. You do not have that option with a soil that is already extremely water-retentive right out of the bag."

Al

Sounds to me like mealy bug, not a fungus. Take a look inside. If so, get a cotton bud, soak it in vodka and let the little b****s die drunk.

Would you guys spray the soil with Lysol or not? Thanks for all the advice Al! I know that was all directed to Kim but I am finding it helpful as well.

TJ

I would not spray Lysol, personally.

I would be more inclined to spritz a little water/rubbing alcohol or water/vinegar on the area.
Not a soaking, just a localized spritz.

First and foremost, minimize the organics in your mix.


Josh

I had the same problem too - the white fuzz I mean. I tried scraping off the fuzz and doing a 1:1 mixture of vinegar and water. Didnt help. Mold came right back. I was told the soil (bagged like yours) came with a pre-existing mold contamination. I repotted - thats when the mold went away. I'm also told the mold is pretty harmless.....by hey what do I know? I'm all brown thumbs. but still hope this this useful :) Good luck!

"Now that the humidifier has been off for a few days, it appears to be going away".

Most likely then it's not mealy bugs Kim..You can relax..:-)

Do you know how to post pictures here?

Mike

Al, I can't thank you enough for taking the time to educate me. :) After reading through a lot of old threads about your mix as well as what you have said here, I will definitely be re-potting several plants in your gritty mix this Spring. Between the holidays and getting married in April, I'm not quite ready to shoulder the entire responsibility for my plants' nutritional needs. I also don't want to put them in a soil where I need to water more often right now. I'm afraid with everything going on the next few months I may neglect my plants too much. I'm going to get through the rest of the winter on what little food is in the bagged soils (they did say that they have "food" in them, not fertilizer) and maybe a little basic plant food I have at the house. That will also give me time to eductae myself on what kind of fertilizer each plant needs.

Would your gritty mix be a good choice for a Norfolk Island Pine? I know they are slow growers and don't like to be re-potted, so I'd like to try a soil that will last a few years. The only problem is that I have read that they don't like to dry out. Would you suggest your 5:1:1 or your 1:1:1 gritty mix?

Mike, yes, I know how to post pictures, but I haven't taken any of the offending fuzz and it's starting to disappear now. Both my Draceana and my Palm needed water. The soils was bone dry, but this fuz was still on it. I watered tham and the fuzz disappeared. It's going away on its own on the rest of the plants. I was actually using a vaporizer with medicated steam. Maybe that caused it? Either way it is going away on it's own and the plants are looking good, so I'm not to concerned.

I have a bridesmaid meeting at my house tonight. Time to crack the whip on my girls. ;)But if I think of it, I'll try to get a picture of the fuzz. It's starnge. It almost looks like dust. It isn't dense like any fuzzy mold I have seen.

Kim,
almost all plants use the major nutrients in a 3:1:2 ratio.
You honestly do not need different fertilizers for each.

For succulents, you simply mix a weaker solution and only fertilize a couple times a year.

For something like citrus, you'll use the same fertilizer but at a stronger dose and more frequently.


Josh

Humidifiers that work either by creating steam or by evaporating water are essentially putting distilled water into the air. Humidifiers that atomize the water, which is to say they create a very fine mist of water and use air movement to force it into the air where it continues to evaporate, are actually putting not only water into the air, they are also putting the dissolved solids IN the water into the air. You can picture this if you imagine a fine spray of saltwater being dropped from an airplane. On the way toward the ground, all the water in the spray evaporates and moves into the spaces between air molecules, so all that hits the ground are the tiny particles of salt. Impeller driven (the ones that spin) and ultrasonic humidifiers put whole water into the air, so all the Ca, Mg, and other solids dissolved in it end up on your floors, carpet, furniture, window sills, plants ....... It's possible that's what you're seeing.

I enjoy helping, Kim. Don't worry, 'shouldering the entire responsibility for your plants' nutritional needs involves little more effort than simply acknowledging the responsibility and including a dose of fertilizer occasionally when you water. Whenever you're ready, and have more time, we can talk about it. The same deal with making your own soil - when/if you're ready .....

Yes, the gritty mix would be a very good choice for NIPs. I grow all my houseplants and long term plantings, which includes trees, shrubs, cacti, succulents ..... anything that will remain in the same container more than 1 growth cycle goes in the gritty mix.

Don't take this as an admonishment or me being judgmental, it's not that way. I understand you are in a very important part of your life and your priorities are ordered as they need to be, and I'm more musing than anything.

Growing as a hobby, in many ways, returns what you put into it. As with most hobbies, to become proficient, there is usually a learning curve and some effort associated with the amount of satisfaction returned. I've often said that best growth/vitality/appearance and grower convenience are often mutually exclusive. IOW, in many ways, you can't have it both ways. The perfect example is, we can grow in a heavy soil that relieves us from the duty of watering every 3-5 days in favor of a weekly or 10-day interval, but what hangs in the balance is growth/vitality/appearance. We can create similar parallel 'balancing acts' when it comes to other aspects of maintaining plants. Fertilizing, proper watering, repotting, flushing the soil (when appropriate) are all things we can choose not to do, but ignoring each, has a price.

My own perspective on the issue is this: It is very simple to learn to make a good soil and fertilize/water properly. I can teach anyone how to do it in 10 minutes. Having these things under control relieves you from most of the issues that take time and effort to correct.

As I sat here trying to think of a parallel example, I thought about the fact you're getting married soon. I'm sure you took the time to get to know your husband. You've considered your likes/dislikes, decided you're compatible, talked about any areas where you might not see exactly eye to eye on a particular matter. IOW, you've taken steps to ensure that you will grow together in a healthy relationship. ;o) Congratulations, BTW. The groundwork you guys have been laying is going to eliminate a lot of work in the future. Imagine if we selected a stranger at random to marry, and think of how much effort it would take to get things right because there was no initial groundwork ..... in most cases it would take an unthinkable amount of energy to keep things going smoothly.

With plants, if you make the little extra effort to get the groundwork right, the basics, you don't have to spend your time and efforts later, trying to fix everything that went awry. It may take a little effort to make a soil, and to water/fertilize more frequently, but a large part of that investment comes back in the form of not having to fix the root rot, bugs, burned foliage from high salt levels .... plus you get the satisfaction of being able to put your skills on display in the attractive and healthy plants you'll have.

I'm guessing you're too young to remember, but 'Fram', an after-market automotive parts manufacturer, once made a car care commercial that made this line famous: “You can pay me now, or you can pay me later!” The mechanic in the commercial explains to a customer that he can pay a small sum now to proactively maintain his car, or he can wait until the car breaks down and pay hundreds more. Growing is quite a bit like that. ;o)

I'll be around if/when you need help with your soil/fertilizer program. Just say hey. All the best to you and your new hubby. ;o)

Al

Again, thank you so much, Al! You're not coming off judgemental at all. Like I said, I've had houseplants for a long time, but I'm just now starting to learn how to take care of them. I went out and bought bagged soils before I found this place. I thought I was doing good by getting specific mixes for the AVs and Succulents (Cactus Mix). Then I started here and learnd I was all wrong. So, I'm just trying to get by on the soil I have for now. I know it isn't great, but it's better than what they were in before. Adding perlite does seem to let the water flow through a little faster, but again, I know it isn't a long term fix.

I'm excited to try your gritty mix! I usually have a habit over over-tending my plants, so having to water more frequently is fine by me....as long as I'm not hosting Christmas Eve in a few weeks and planning a wedding. :)

I have a Snake Plant at my Dad's (because the cat finally noticed it after 7 years) that is in a HORRIBLE soil. I think I bought it at a discount store and it was a Vermiculite mix. NOT good for a Sans, as I have learned. He also has a peace lily that could use some love. He's an over-wterer, too. So, I think the gritty mix is a good choice for all of his plants.

See, I am an over-tender. I have to take over other people's plants to keep from smothering my own! :)

I will definitely post pictures in the Spring (probably late May after the honeymoon) when I start moving things to your mix. In addition to my outdoor gardening and the projects I've mentioned. I have a good number of succulents that would benefit from your mix, a Prayer Plant that needs grooming (and hopefully some cutings to root) and even a few more.

Cool - looks like we're on the same page. TTY when it's a good time for you.

Al

Hi Kim,

Congratulations on your upcoming wedding. Yes, one thing at a time &/or baby steps. One thing few people mention in gardening is to try & keep things on the simpler side.

I was going to say it about fertilizers, but Josh got there first, about not needing different fertilizers for different plants, ratehrt using a general fertilizer which one can adjust for different plants & dosages.

Similarly for soils too, tho' AV soil is the right & proper thing for AVs; they really do have different considerations & have had generations of folks who've perfected growing them, so we needn't re-invent that wheel.

I even recycle some soil for Snake plants (Sansevierias, Sans. for short; I have at least 10 different kinds). They can grow in almost anything (except very peaty mix, or the vermiculite you mention).

About the over-tending, it's really not a good thing in plants & gardening. Especially not a good thing w/ succulents, can lead to overwatering & subsequent problems.

While it may not come naturally to you to fuss less & water less, it IS important. I had such trouble learning that in the beginning that I forced myself to walk around my apartment w/ my hands clasped behind my back (like Prince Charles & his father), so I couldn't fuss over them or water them. Was difficult, but I learned.

Good luck, maybe go slowly & just BREATHE!!!

Well said, Karen.

That image of Prince Charles with his hands behind his back is excellent...


Josh

I think I have an entirely different perspective on moving forward slowly in baby steps, when leaps and bounds are there for the taking. If you're blazing a trail, or you've set out from 'A' in a random search for 'B', slow baby steps might be a reasonable course; but when the trail has already been blazed and well-traveled, there is very little risk in moving forward quickly. The worst that can happen is a little stumble, but there are plenty of travelers along the way to help get you back on the trail. Another way to look at it is, why take a years worth of baby steps, trying a little of this and a little of that, when a few weeks is all it will take to evaluate your progress and do an immediate about face to the former status quo if things don't work out.

There is always something to be said for the KISS method, but keeping it simple doesn't mean you should (logically) feel there is an improved chance for favorable results. As I think about that issue and how it relates to the way I grow, I'm left to wonder what could be done to make it any simpler. I use virtually the same soil (made with equal parts of only 3 ingredients) and the same fertilizer for all my houseplants. They're pretty much all treated the same way, except maybe in summer, when some require a little less than full sun. I think the most complicated part of the whole package is the explaining 'why' it works so well to others who wish to take a similar course. The rest, the application part, is simple.

I guess I like the people I'm trying to help to understand the concepts behind why they're having greater success. .... sort of like that whole "Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day. TEACH a man to fish, and ...." It's sometimes difficult to explain a technical concept w/o BEING technical in explaining, but that the explanation might seem technical is not by any means a clear indication the application must follow as such. The application is really quite simple.

I'm not sure how I come down on the 'fuss less and water less' thing. There's nothing wrong with fussing. Heck - I'm always fussing over my plants - taking a leaf off here, whacking a branch or deadheading there, pulling unwanted weeds out of the soil ..... as long as it's appropriate fussing, all is well. I think key is learning what is and isn't appropriate. The same with watering. You can tell a known over-waterer to water less, and most times the suggestion will be helpful, but not always; so I would probably make the suggestion that the over-waterer learn to water appropriately (which is quite an art) and on an 'as needed' basis only, instead of on a schedule. To that, however, I might add the qualifier that as the porosity of your soil increases the importance of watering on an 'as needed' basis decreases; and the greater will be the 'forgiveness factor' if you DO find it necessary to water on a schedule. The reason is, of course, that it is the soils that remain saturated for extended periods that encourage rot organisms to take hold. Porous and fast draining soils that retain no saturated layer of soil at the bottom of the container offer considerable margin for error in the watering department ...... less likelihood of the mold issue like Kim had arising, as well.

I think, in my travels here at GW, I have identified 3 different ways of how people look at the issue of change. I won't go into the reasons for the positions people take, I'll only say that they are there.

The first group is almost entirely resistant to change, no matter how overwhelming the evidence that it is in all probability a good course. Even the fact that this group might have plants they KNOW aren't all they could be, is not enough, from their perspective, to warrant change.

Another group is somewhat resistant to change, but will make changes when they have seen good reason to make them. They are often only swayed by the testimony and success stories of others. This group is often content with a few minor changes in their approach, and not usually willing to make an exerted effort at major change; although I've seen a lot of them become very enthusiastic after a few changes have made considerable improvement in their results.

The third group is very open to weighing suggestions, and to making a sometimes considerable effort to improve their results through learning and incorporating new strategies. They're generally interested in the positive and even naysayers can't hold them back.

Unfortunately, these groups are often at odds, and even more sadly, it's usually because of their perspectives; but should it be that way? Of course not. Why should the growers hungry for change and improvement care if the first group is content in their methods and results? Conversely, why should the firmly entrenched care if some few want to break away from the pack and stretch their wings?

Ah well, I didn't think I would find so much to talk about. It's getting late, so I'll wish all a good night.

Take care.

Al

Hear, hear, words to live by!

Thanks for taking the time to offer your thoughts, Al.
I'm glad to read this posting.


Josh

Kim,

If gardening and growing plants is a hobby and something you enjoy no matter what kind of plants you have, of course you are going to fuss over them..That is where the enjoyment comes from..To me peace comes from touching, holding, fondling..Enjoy your plants and nurture them, i do and mine are always happy.

Others wish they are just there for decorations..

Those that love to fuss over plants may just consider it joyful and relaxing..When one stops "fussing" with their plants, it ceases to become a hobby, enjoyable in my view. I was loosing plants left and right when I tended to ignore them before meeting a good man like Al..

When I cease to stop enjoying the company and time spent with my plants, I just might go out and buy "artificial" ones..

Good luck with your venture..You will do just fine with all these good and kind people..

Mike

Thank you ALL for your words of encouragement!! I am excited to take the next step in my plant education/care in the Spring!

I agree about fussing over plants. I know it can lead to over-watering, but it calming for me to come home from work and walking around inspecting my plants. Is that a new leaf? Did the cat nibble that one? Is that Jade getting too dry? Nope, leaves feel good. In a way, it actually keeps me from over watering. When a plant looks dry, I tell myself: "Look at it again tomorrow." Instead of knowing that I probably won't look at it for another week, so I better water now just in case. It's a nice start to my day to come into my office in the morning and mist my Prayer Plant...especially last week when I came in and found flowers! :)

Even people who just want their plants for decoration and don't want to have to mess with them would benefit from a place like this and learning which soils and plants lend themselves to that kind of care. For me, the plants are, of course, a beautiful addition to my home. I'm proud to show them off to company when they're doing well. However, like most of you, it's also my hobby. I wouldn't have so many if I didn't like watching each one grow and learning how to care for each one. Plus, since they're all I talk about lately, they had better look good! Though, I do have a very stringy Pothos that I've kept alive (sometimes barely) for almost 10 years. It looks a lot better right now than it did a few months ago, but it's still pretty pitiful. I don't care how ugly it is, I am so proud of that little trooper!

Anywho, you all are the best. You've been welcoming from the very start and no one has tried to make me feel stupid regardless of all the stupid things I've been doing. It's a learning process...and I'm enjoying it, so why not spread it out a little? ;)

;-) Don't let anyone make you feel stupid! There's a big difference between being stupid and simply not being well-versed in a particular area. Often, I think of 'stupid' in terms of a persons attitude, instead of what they do or don't know. On more than a few occasions I've considered individuals stupid (no reference to anyone) that seem at first glance to be knowledgeable but for some reason make the decision to draw out arguments offered from untenable positions, against facts (and/or logic) that simply overwhelm their position. On the other hand, the newest of newbies are often like sponges. They are full of enthusiasm and soak up knowledge at an impressive rate, their biggest challenge being how to separate the informational wheat from the chaff.

Growing IS supposed to be fun, but we have to allow that everyone's version of 'fun' isn't the same. Some are very content to do put forth a minimum amount of effort and accept whatever hand Mother Nature deals. At the other end of the spectrum are people like me, who truly enjoy not only understanding the more technical aspects of what makes plants and plantings work, but who are also willing to put forth extra effort to ensure their plants are what they CAN be.

Experience CAN BE a good teacher, but not all actually learn from experience - especially those that equate repetition with experience. Those who truly have a closed mind and think experience is the only teacher or that experience can somehow trump knowledge obtained outside of experience are doing themselves a disservice and are the ones most in need of enlightenment. Those who regularly reap the harvest of knowledge are far more capable of progressing in life as their experiences validate what they have learned. Those who press for the acquisition of knowledge then view their experience as validation of that knowledge leave those who rely on only experience standing in their slipstream.

Learn all you can - it will serve you well as you move forward.

Al