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saturn1956

Brown areas on leaves

saturn1956
11 years ago

I have a Syngonium and on some of the leaves there are brown areas like it has dried up or is about to. Do I trim the brown spots out.remove the entire leaf from the plant or leave it alone

Saturn

Comments (21)

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    Are you able to show a pic of your plant? It's not possible to know what's going on from your description.

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Here is the pic with the brown area. Should I trim it or leave it alone??

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    I would trim that off. In general, your plant looks like it may not be getting enough light. There are some white spots on some of the leaves. Do you know what those are? What's going on with the leaf at the very top of the pic in the middle? It looks messed up too, and there's something I can't see well on the stem of that leaf. Is your plant wet or just very shiny? Sometimes a flash can make a pic confusing...

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    11 years ago

    ..... almost certainly from over-watering or an accumulation of soluble salts in the soil ..... or very possibly a combination of the two. There are other potential issues, but nothing even comes close to the probability of what I just mentioned.

    This leaves you on the horns of a dilemma. If your soil is remaining saturated for extended periods, flushing the soil of the salts that have accumulated could easily increase the likelihood or severity of any root issues currently limiting the plant. If you try to control your watering by offering only small sips to avoid the extended interval of saturation, all the salts from fertilizer solutions and what is dissolved in your tap water continue accumulating in the soil.

    A stopgap measure would be to flush the soil thoroughly on a regular basis and monitor your watering habits carefully. More on that if you choose that course...... The best solution is to get your plant through the winter, then repot it into a soil that allows you to water to the point where you're flushing the soil with each watering. This resolves both the over-watering issue AND prevents the accumulation of soluble salts in the soil.

    If you're interested in learning more, let me know and I'll guide you to some links here at GW that I'm sure will be helpful.

    Al

    This post was edited by tapla on Wed, Dec 19, 12 at 10:09

  • goren
    11 years ago

    TOO MUCH......water, sun or drafty location.

    The winter solstace is upon us....(December 21) and the sun wont be of much value until about mid February when it returns to support our plants growing.
    But, if you put your plant too close to the window glass, then the increased rays can cause browning leaves.
    WE tend to water in December, much like we water in July...and the plants pay for it.
    Do the finger test and if you feel any kind of dampness, then let it go another couple days, then test again.

    Don't let your plants, after watering, sit in the drainage water--otherwise it gets sucked up again around the roots which cant use it. It sits there and can do leaf damage.

    If your plant is sitting on the floor because it needs to be there---get it up...on a table, shelf, pedestal or hang it up so it isn't hit with that warm draft from the heat ventilator.

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I only water the plant once a week. It does get light but diffused light. Maybe it needs more light or less water??

  • meyermike_1micha
    11 years ago

    Well with my same plant, the more often I am allowed to water in the winter without the fear of rot or salt deposits, the better it is.

    For me, not having to water for a week or longer would cause the issues you are having with yours above.
    That tells me your mix is much heavier than a plant would prefer. With that comes issues as Al describes.
    The more often you are 'allowed' to water your plants in a very good porous mix, even in the winter, the better off your plants will be.

    Good luck with your plant and if I were you, I would take Al up on his offer on the science of container growing:-) He has been a God send for my plants as also many here too have.

    You have chosen the right place to reverse the damage being done to your prized plant.

    Mike

    This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Wed, Dec 19, 12 at 20:00

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I have it in a clay container with miracle grow potting mix as soil. I did not think I could do any better as far as soil is concerned. It is not near any heat, 3 ft. from a window so it gets light but not direct. And watered once a week I just transplanted it in July came in a pot with several other plants I separated them to allow to grow on their own. Does anything sound wrong that I have done. Thanks for all the input!!

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    11 years ago

    Does anything sound wrong that I have done?

    Let's just say what you said raises some warning flags. Selecting and adhering to a predetermined interval between waterings is bound to cause problems. It's a near certainty that if you water weekly and aren't seeing any wilting between waterings, that you're watering too frequently. This causes a too large fraction of the soil to remain saturated for extended periods - especially in the winter when the plant's biological clock, cool temperatures and/or light levels work together to reduce the need for water used in photosynthesis. Soggy soil inhibits root function, causing a drought response (necrotic areas of the leaves), or worse - rots roots.

    There is lots of information available if you really want to learn how to avoid the issues you're dealing with. Rather than simply tell you what you're doing right or wrong, it's probably more helpful to explain how things can be improved and how some of the effects of the factors currently limiting your success could be reduced.

    Al

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thank you everyone you have been very helpful

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Lastly this house plant was identified to me as a Syngonium plant is this correct??

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    Yes, it's some type of Syngonium, it will eventually vine out. Did you ever inspect those white spots - or was that just a trick of the camera?

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    yes I did and it must have been the camera because I did not see them upon close inspection doing research online it says they like a damp soil conditions so I am still wondering if I should keep the soil moist or wait for slight wilting because of winter and the less need for water

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    Yes, most plants would prefer to be damp. Your idea of damp is probably a lot more wet than that of the plant.

    If one has a soil with insufficient air pockets for the roots to get air as well as moisture, damage to roots can occur. To compensate, allowing the soil to dry completely is the only way to combat that. Wilt is a sign of extreme distress/dehydration and should be avoided. Ideally, repotting this plant into something more chunky and airy when you are able would be the best.

    Good to hear you don't see any white spots.

  • birdsnblooms
    11 years ago

    Saturn. I've looked and re-looked at your Syngonium. I see one, brown leaf. Are there others?

    If only one or two, no need to worry.

    Although Syngoniums should not be set in direct summer sun, during winter, variegated species, 'yours is slightly variegated,' need more light than non-variegated.

    Watering. Once you see new growth, Syns needs regular watering..During non-growing seasons, soil should dry in-between drinks.

    Would you happen to know if your Synonium is a miniature? Colors and leaf shape look similiar to a mini HD once had for sale.

    Soil in clay dries much quicker than ceramic or plastic, but room temp/humidity/pot size plays a major role, too.
    Do you water once a week for convenience or know for a fact soil is ready for a drink?

    Anyway, your Syngonium looks fine. One to a few brown leaves this time of year is natural.. Toni

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    That's a good point, Toni. Syngoniums discard leaves much more often than "the average plant," IME.

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I generally stick my finger in the soil and within a week it does feel dried out so then I do water. I have seen some new growth so I am encouraged by that sign. "discard leaves what does that mean?? I guess the brown areas are ok to trim then there are about 4 leaves with partial brown areas on them. The pic was only an example of what one looks like.

  • Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
    11 years ago

    Hmm... 4 leaves out of how many? And where on the plant? Leaves that die specifically at the tips first, then progress to the entire leaf are a sign of a possible problem. When the oldest leaf gradually turns yellow at fairly regular rate throughout the whole leaf, that's normal. HTH make it more clear.

    From what I see of your leaves, the roots are not as happy as they could/should be.

  • birdsnblooms
    11 years ago

    Purple..yep, I think unless Syngonium is grown in a perfect environment, leaves brown, grow pale, limp.

    Saturn..Basiclly, shed..get rid of, 'unwanted' leaves.

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    the brown areas are on the edges of the leaves and there about 4 leaves out of 20 all together I have trimmed them looks kinda funny with three quarter of a leaf but the others look ok nice and shiny and with new growth

  • saturn1956
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Did just notice with a flashlight one leaf and stem does seem to have white spots any ideas tried to look it up online not very definitive

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