Are any of the affected leaves falling off the tree when it's bumped or the leaves are tugged lightly?

Al

Yes, indeed some are... what does that mean?

Thanks!

Also, here is the whole plant pic.

Before leaves can be shed, an abscission layer has to form at the base of the leaf. Under some conditions, it can form partially, so the leaf doesn't fall off on its own. That happens more often when there is no wind, or something to knock the leaves off the tree. Leaf tissues can actually start to break down while leaves are still on the tree, as the fungi whose job it is to do this begin their work. That's what it looks like. It's likely there was something contributing to the localization of the necrotic tissues, like a chemical being sprayed on the tree and allowed to dry, localized exposure to sudden chill .... That's just the sense I get from looking at the picture and based on what I've seen in Ficus before.

Here's a copy/paste of a reply I left on another thread (Lamora's) about general fertilizers for houseplants. If you have questions, please ask.

It's not that you can't grow healthy plants using 8-7-6 (it's harder with 10-15-10, though), but plants use about 6X as much P as N, so all that extra P has only the potential to limit. An excess of any single element can be as limiting as a deficiency.

If I had to make some sort of order out of a few of the more common fertilizers being used for houseplants, from poor to very good, it would be like this:

10-52-10
10-30-10
5-10-5
10-15-10
7-9-5
20-20-20, 14-14-14, or any other 1:1:1 ratio fertilizers
8-7-6
MG 12-4-8
MG 24-8-16 or any other of the other very common 24-8-16 brands
Foliage-Pro 9-3-6

The closer you get to being able to supply nutrients in the ratio at which plants use them, the better off your plants will be, unless you understand how to manipulate them with cause and are intentionally taking that control. The last 3 fertilizers listed supply NPK in as close to the same ratio as the average of all plants as you can buy.

Below, you'll find a link to a thread about tending Ficus in containers. Hopefully, you will find it of some value.

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: Click me & I'll show you ....

Al,

Thanks so much for this response. So helpful!

- I will definitely change the fertilizer.

- As for the dropping of the leaves, I am unsure how to proceed. Does your lack of specific advice suggest that my tree is not salvageable? Or what specifically may I do to curb the leaf drop?

Thanks!

As for the dropping of the leaves, I am unsure how to proceed. Does your lack of specific advice suggest that my tree is not salvageable? Or what specifically may I do to curb the leaf drop?

Since we don't REALLY know exactly what's wrong with your tree, the best bet is to A) get it through the winter in the best shape you can, and B) repot/root-prune in early summer, being sure you get it into an appropriate soil that allows you to water properly.

To get it through the winter, I would flush the soil very thoroughly, then fertilize with a half strength dose of a good fertilizer with a 3:1:2 RATIO, 'ratio' being different than NPK %, then make sure you don't over/under water. The tree should be kept in very bright light and in a warm spot, but away from heat registers and cold drafts. If you decide that's how you want to proceed and need more help, especially with flushing the soil so the soil doesn't remain wet too long, just ask. I'm usually around more often than I have been lately, and I'll see your post.

Al

Hello. i also have a ficus bonsai with totally same health issue; brown spots on the corner of some leaves and leaves are also falling. Could you pls advise how is your bonsai now and how you solved it?

The thread is 7 years old, so it's likely the original poster has moved on.

Please provide an image of affected leaves and the entire plant and pot. Also, describe how you care for it in as much detail as possible, with primary emphasis on light levels and watering/fertilizing practices.

Al

Hi this is my one and it has the same issue i would like more details about to do please?!

Here

Does the pot have a drain hole? Often these trees with F retusa understock and F microcarpa scion grafted to it are in pots w/o holes.

Al

Hello!! I am having the same issue with my Ficus Bonsai. Just 3 weeks ago, I moved from my home into my dorm, and I brought my bonsai with me. Since then, he's been losing leaves, and its been getting worse!! (Theres leaves with dark spots, and leaves with dimples) At first, I assumed it was travel shock, but would travel shock last for 3 weeks? I have been watering when the any of the top inch of the soil gets dry, should I water more? Less? The pot has drainage holes at the bottom, but its sitting in a white pot so water might not be able to escape as easily. There's space on the sides- should I poke holes in the sides? And finally, my last note, is that I noticed some white substances it gathering at where the roots meets the ground, should I be concerned?

Also, I have been fertilizing with 10-10-10, and not frequently at that. Only once every few months.

My dorm is fairly bright, but the plants actual placement may be getting lesser sunlight. I have moved it to my desk in the meantime, just in case lack of sunlight is the issue.

McKenzie Q - did you figure out the issue? I’m having the same issue.

I have same problem with Ficus Alii. Have you found a solution?

I get some relief by moving plant to brighter light situation but the place I want to put plant doesn't have very good light and I wonder if something besides light would help.

start your own post.. include pix of your own plant.. so we can give you advice about your own plant ...

otherwise .... we are just guessing .. and odds are... it all the same as above ...

ken