Just saw this posting after replying to the other! I have been making some pots in platic molds already. Amazed that the ugliest piece of plastic whatever in the right shape will produce a great looking product. I will try this tomorrow. Have a viburnum marisii in my garden which might work nicely. Have you used this method with woody stems like lavender or leptospernum? Thanks, G.B.

Hello Billie ann.

What ratio of sand, peat, Portland cement do you use? I just printed out your message on making leaf imprints and want to try it. (Your pots are beautiful!)

I'm also very new to Hypertufa and have been reading all I can on it. I have made a few pots, experimenting with the "recipe" of my "mud". The first set I made with one part Portland cement, one part sand, and two parts peat. I like it okay, but it was very dark in color. I also think I had it too dry as it was like crumbly cookie batter.

With my second batch of pots, I used two parts Portland cement, two parts sand, and one part peat. It turned out heavier, dried quickly and was difficult to unmold.

I would love to know what you use for you pots. I'm off to the tufa table to try again. Thanks for your help and for sharing!

GB, I've used lots of things including lavendar, beech tree branches and certain conifers. My viburnum isn't particular thick or have deep veins, which is what you usually want. When I make troughs and planters if there's any hypertufa left over I make "tiles" to experiment with different leaves. I have some 4" and 6" square plastic containers. You spray them with PAM, place the leaf with the vein side facing up in the bottom and pat your hypertufa on top. I used these for samples when I first started making planters. Later, when I saw what would work, I'd place hangers on the backs and sell the "tiles" for garden wallhangings. Don't know if I mentioned in another post but I've used wood stain for years on my leaf imprints, besides arylic paints. Got to go get ready to teach a hypertufa class tonight at a local nature center.
Puddle, I use equal parts Portland cement, sand and peat moss. I add just enough water to make a dry mix. If I want to vary the color, I take out the peat moss and use perlite or vermiculite. You can also use white portland cement, white sand and perlite or vermiculite for a whiter look. The white recipes also show colors better. I like a more muted color myself. Thanks for liking my pots. Billie

Hi, Billie,

Do you still have a picture of your wonderful Grapevine Pot to post here? It's one of my all time favorite 'tufa pots!

Eva

Billie,

Your're making my head swim with all the great info. Way too many ideas to try now. Patience grasshopper, patience.
G.B.

Hi Billie,

I just love your pots, they are beautiful. Can you tell me how you get the dark colour on the two pots in your photo, and when you colour with the wood stains, do you apply them directly to the imprint of the leaf, as you would a craft colour? Thanks,

Jilly

Eva, I'm sure I've got the picture of the grapevine pot. I think that pots in Georgia now.
GB, Been playing with hypertufa for quite a while. I like plain hypertufa and muted colors. I think you're started in the right direction with smaller items. Their easier to make and store. More people will buy small items and it gets your name out more.
Jilly, The two dark pots got their coloring from black liquid cement dye manufactured by Quikrete and sold at home improvement stores. The wood stain is painted on the leaf then after it dries you lightly sand the leaf removing some of the color from the high spots. It leaves the stain in the veins and around the edges of the leaf. Same thing happens when you use ornamental concrete stain or arylic paint on leaves. Billie

Billie you're a gem. Thanks for the info. Just wish I lived close enough to come to some of your classes as I am just started into HT.

Jilly.

Thank you Billie! I agree with Jilly, I wish I could come to your classes too! Yes, indeed, you ARE a gem! Thanks again!

Hi Billie,
One of the finishes that I am trying to fine tune is a deep black so the pots look like lava rock. It seems to take alot of acrylic paint to accomplish this. The only place that I have found to buy it is at artist supply stores and it is a bit pricy for the amount I am using. Peak suggested a few places to buy inexpensive acrylic craft paint, but I haven't located one yet. I thought about buying some concrete paint from a paint store, which may be less than something from Smith paints? Looking for an inexpensive option to paint these large troughs.
I also tried an ebony wood stain from HD which is nice, but I am concerned about the smell on my smaller indoor pieces. How long does it take to disapate if ever? I am going to order some stains from Smith too. Are they smelly too?
Why can't they make it all smell like roses?
signed, Scent sensitive G.B.
Tried my first 2 leaf imprints today. Unmold tomorrow!

Billie Ann, Loved your pots. I've used cabbage leaves also that turn out great. Can you tell me more about your class? I am doing a hypertufa demo at a local art festival this month, and I could use some pointers. I'm hoping it stirs up enough interest to set up an actual class. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Mary Sue

Hi Billie (again!),
Seems like I am doing the right things as I am using white portland, colorant and white sand. I like the rough finish I get with the larger grit and roughing/carving up the finished surface. So I don't really want to smooth it out. I am sure I could keep adding extra colorant to make it blacker. But I like starting off with a not so black base and then painting on top of that to create more depth in the finish. I have been diluting the acrylic paint to achieve diffenrent washes and shades,but I just run through a tube in no time. (not everything I am making is lava black) So, what do you think about using something from the local paint store and maybe thinning it with water? Also, I did find a Michael's craft store not too far from here and I am going to go check out thier acrylic paint prices tonight. Tufa-ed for 6 hours today! Addict?
Thank you for your patience and expertise. Hope all these questions don't cause you any migraines! They must be an unpleasant experience.
Thanks, David

Mary Sue, I teach a couple of different classes: plain trough, decorative planter, leaf castings, lamps, tabletop fountains. I teach hands-on classes for 30 and under and demostrations with volunteers out of the audience for large groups. I don't bother with teaching how to make huge things. Just something small so people get the feel of the mix. I took a class and they had us make this big trough and then we had to balance it on a piece of plywood, trudge a 1/4 mile to the parking lot.......wasn't fun and the teacher was uptight. I usually use small plastic food storage bowls and use the inside of the bowl for a mold. It's enough to give people an idea, light enough to carry and I bring along plastic bags so they can wrap it up to keep in the moisture and protect their vehicle. AND the important thing in this instant gratification society, they can unmold in 24 hours and see something! I have a printed handout that I created that tells how hypertufa got it's start, one recipe with options and step by step how to mix, mold, cure, unmold, final cleaning before wrapping in plastic bag or immersing in a water bath.
For your demo at the festival have a couple of small trays(I use the lids from the plastic food storage bowls or large styrofoam plates) with damp sand mounds to demonstrate leaf castings. You can have leaf casting demos all day. Use leaves that are small enough to set up in a half hour and just lift the plastic off the sand mound, store that leaf in a box with padding and set another piece of plastic on the sand mound and start another leaf casting. Have a couple (you don't need many) cured leaves and finished painted/stained leaves hanging or laying about. Don't make leaves the day before for samples. Sometimes these can be too fragile to transport.
For a planter you can make small planters a couple times while you're there. Also have small planters that you made the day before so you can show people how to unmold and wirebrush or however you finish yours. It's also nice to have a couple of small finished planters. Just remember how heavy everything can be and try not to pack too much. I have this heavy duty plastic tubs from IKEA called slugis and use those in my truck to lug everything. They also double as small mortar pans. Sorry to ramble. This is a lot of fun. Good luck! Dena also teaches classes so she may have some advise for you....bring bottled water.....gets thristy talking so much. Billie

GB, The reason I was recommending the smooth finish is that it's easier to get that "black" color on a smooth surface. You have to watch how much colorant you add, there's a certain percentage...think it's on the container. Smoother takes less paint........ Whatever floats your boat.
There are two artist on the West Coast, Bainbridge Island, Washington State, out near Dena. Little and Lewis, they have a web site. Dena's been there and I'm pretty sure she said they use diluted exterior house paint. I'm pretty sure that they said that also when they were on the Martha Stewart show. E-mail Dena and check with her. Billie

Ahmmm, Billie? If we beg, could we see a photo of the grapevine pot? Please, O please? Huh, can we? Pretty please with a cherry?

Hi Billie,
How would I get ahold of Dena? Thanks, G.B.

Hi, G.B.,

You can email Dena through the GardenWeb.

Eva

Here is a link that might be useful: Dena's GardenWeb Email Link

Thanks Eve, but I found the answer to my question in the discussion forum in reference to Dena's instuctions on leaf castings. In it, she mentions using diluted exterior latex paint. I bought some today and it is EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED!
By diluting it to different degrees I am able to get the shading I was looking for and it is so much more economical than those tubes of acrylic I was buying. And thank you Dena and Billie for leading me down the right path to enlightenment. signed, Splattered in black G.B.

Thanks Billie for all this information!!
This newbies printer is getting a work out tonight!

Hi, Billie~ I always love seeing your work and reading your posts. Your leaf imprints are the BEST!
So much information I gathered from you, and am definitely going to try and do a couple of leaf imprinted pots today!
Thanks for the pics AND the info!
Oh, and my plants are doing wonderfully! Thanks, again!
Mertie

Billie, I love your leaf imprinted pots!

Deb

Just spray the inside of the plastic with PAM (vegetable baking spray)

Billie - does PAM really work that well? I guess you would have to give a good coating?

Plantman, Been working with hypertufa almost 14 or 15 years now. PAM works, you only need a thin coating. Spray a little in/on the plastic and wipe off the excess. Billie

Quote by Bille ann:
"Mary Sue, I teach a couple of different classes: plain trough, decorative planter, leaf castings, lamps, tabletop fountains. I teach hands-on classes for 30 and under and demostrations with volunteers out of the audience for large groups. I don't bother with teaching how to make huge things. "
I was going to ask about taking one of your classes but I'm 59 and you said 30 and under!!
daniel from "Lankcuster"

Dan'l, Spoken like a true "Lankcuster". LOL!

When and where is the next class?? If we are not seeding by then I would be interested. daniel from Lankcuster

Dan'l, I've got one coming up in Lambertville, NJ (Feb), a short seminar (March)at Bucks Beautiful Garden Fair at Del Val College in Doylestown, PA.. Once Spring breaks around here I have a couple classes every month at my house. A friend also teaches in Danielsville just outside Bethlehem. I also have a handout from my classes that I can snail mail or e-mail you. You can also contact your cooperative extension office and see if the master gardeners in your area have classes. Billie

very interesting tufa tiles and planters, that is something you can never find at the store..

Billie - this is a great post. I would like to try leave prints at a workshop in March at the PlantExpo - With your approval! -

I wonder if you have a suggestion for keeping leaves that I collect now in good shape til March

I'm limited in the type of leaves in my zone (mainly large, have small leaves) but what about using plastic or silk leaves? Has anyone used them and what was your success?

Plantman,

Have you tried glycerin (5:1, water to glycerin)? Some people have had luck freezing theirs, depending on the type of leaf.

Plantman, I never saw your post. For classes in the colder months I use house plants, tropicals and have a friend in the wholesale plant business that I steal small and medium leaves from.
All I want to do is teach people the techniques of casting leaves. The small to medium leaves are easier to supply, easier to make and easier for people to transport home. I show them re-enforcement for larger leaves but usually don't teach using large leaves. I use plastic lids or styrofoam plates with a mold of damp sand on top. They put a piece of plastic and their leaf on top of the sand, cover it with hypertufa or mortar mix and put the whole thing (plate, sand, leaf) into a ziplock plastic bag. It's pretty easy to transport home. Billie

Hi!

I love your work - very nice. Have you used your tiles on a wall - a backsplash for example? I am thinking of trying my hand at this - not sure if it will work, but I don't have anything to lose!

How did you paint the different colors of the leaf?