That's interesting. I suppose for a cylindercal one, you could use a Quaker Oats box.

Do you leave your tin can embedded?

Daisy_ny6,
You bring up an interesting point, previously I have left the tin can in because it was easier... but next time I might try using a smooth bottle, can, etc and grease it up so I could pull it out. The reason this would be attractive is I made some for a friend and she left them out this winter and the cans filled with water... then we got very cold temperatures with wind and the water froze expanding the cans causing the hypertufa to crack. It suprised me but it was a good lesson. So thank you for bringing that up!!
Nancy

Nancy, Very nice design!
The inside will still fill with water. When the water freezes it will expand and crack the piece. A small angled drainhole would help but you'd still have to be sure that the drainhole remains open. It's easier to turn them upside down or store them inside. Billie

Thanks Billie
A drain hole has me thinking rather than rebar, I could just insert a short 1/2" copper tube to the bottom of the milk carton, then put the greased can inside like I have been doing. Once the tufa hardens I remove the can and will have a 1/2" drainhole. Then just pound some 3/8" rebar into the ground where I want the light and slip the hypertufa over it. The way the shade fits with a votive holder, debris isn't likely to get in, just water if is rains hard. It is nice to be able to light them on a winter evening. My friend put colored red and green votive holders in hers at Christmas along her walkway. Looked great! Thanks for the drainhole idea.
Nancy

Thanks fo the pic Nancy.
How did you get the nice finish?
Debbie

Hi Debbie,

When I took off the milk carton, I just lightly dusted it all over with dry cement using a dry brush. The dry cement immediately bonds to the damp surface. Just keep applying or brushing it until you get the look you want.

Nancy

gardencalligrapher, Very clever! what a lovely way to light up ones garden! Thanks for posting it.

What recipe did you use to make it?

joanmary,

In answer to your question, I used a recipe from a class I took about 15 years ago at local botanic garden. I have used it for troughs, planters, birdbaths, etc and it has been very durable. I do like dusting the pieces, as I said before, with dry cement because it kind of "hides" the white of the perlite evening out the texture just a bit. Here's the recipe:

1 part fine peat moss (pressed firmly down into container)
1 1/2 parts Portland cement
1 1/2 parts sand
1 1/2 parts perlite (you can omit the perlite and put in 3 parts of sand, but it greatly increases the weight)

Nancy

Thanks Nancy,
I've being trying to get a better finish forever.
Debbie

Nancy, thanks for the recipe. I like the idea of the copper tubing and inserted rebar for the garden. Portable, practical and stable! We could use a lot of those here when the hurricane season is upon us again!!! Wonderful for a party in the garden too!

Joanmary

Drain holes have a habit of blocking in freezing weather, I guess it depends on your climate.

The shape of anything that might hold water is important. Tapering shapes like a bowl or cone (pointy end down) will not crack (touch wood!) when they freeze because the ice will just push up. Straight-sided shapes like a box, or even worse overhanging shapes like a sphere, will explode because the ice can't go anywhere except straight out.