Have to say that I really like the wood!

You haven't left yourself enough time for researching this project, or for gathering the necessary materials. Can you put them off for a week or so, until you know more about what you're doing? You could make an awful mess by experimenting on what is an important area, an approach to your living area. I've worked with concrete for years, but wouldn't attempt a project like this with so little research.
Have you considered tiling it rather than stamping? There's less room for disasters. You could buy non-slip tiles...

I've gone bull-headed into projects like this many times when I was inexperienced, and each time it turned into a disaster, because I didn't do enough research first. I'm not trying to be totally discouraging (well, I am, actually) but you don't have enough time to design the project, and/or to find the right materials.

That looks like it could be a lovely little area if properly designed, and a dark gloomy cheap-looking area if not properly designed. Why not visit some of the other forums here and ask for advice about the over-all 'look' that would suit an area like that?

I don't know much about stamping/colouring the surface of concrete, but here are some links from my Bookmarks on the subject. As far as I recall, there was lots of information on some of these sites.

I imagine that you'd need to get the concrete laid to an inch or so below what you need as your final level, then as it sets score the surface and apply some bonding agent so that the surface layer (which you intend to apply yourself) doesn't chip off later on.

The links will continue over the next few posts...

Here is a link that might be useful: Texturing tools and supplies

Here's another link

Here is a link that might be useful: Decorative Concrete Net

Masonry paint

Here is a link that might be useful: Masonry/floor paint

This is a project that's going to be around for a long time. Either hire a company that does decorative concrete or wait, practice and do it yourself. Can't tell from the photo, is it the long dark area behind the dog that's going to be done? How long is the pathway? Can you make concrete tiles yourself? Home Depot and Lowes have dyes in their concrete departments but you need experience using the dyes to get good results. The first time I used a red concrete dye it came out a horrid pink. Is this an area that's shoveled due to snow? A stamped pathway can be a problem to shovel. It's also not a good idea to apply anything that will melt ice when you have a decorative concrete as it can effect the stain. The stains/dyes that decorative concrete companies use is usually applied to the top layer. You can also just have a straight concrete path poured (with expansion joints)then buy concrete stain by the gallon at home improvement stores and paint a design on the pathway then seal it. I don't think (I'm not positive because I haven't bought it in a while) that the home improvement stores carry green dye in the concrete department. Think it's blue, red, buff and charcoal. Good Luck and post pics as you're working or when it's finished. Billie

For what it's worth, two years ago my son made me a concrete 12"x12"x6" step. After he had finished the project, it looked so plain that I gathered some ferns and leaves from the yard, arranged them to suit me and firmly pressed them, face up, into the wet concrete. I just left them there til they wore off but I could have peeled them off after a couple of days. That exercise is probably what led me into casting leaves last year. Just recently, I tried painting my concrete leaves. It made me look at the step again and now, if the weather ever cooperates here, I'm going to put a wash of craft acrylic paints over the leaves to emphasize them and make them look more like fossils. Inexpensive and attractive. Good luck on your project

Stylin --- As I understand it, you will have a company pour the walkway as plain, gray, smooth surfaced concrete, is that correct? If a contractor pours the concrete, any "stamping" has to take place immediately after pouring and requires professionally made (expensive) stamps to look worth anything. You can come back later with a thin, self-leveling topping such as a product called SkimStone and stamp that though. The Quikcrete forms need to be cast in place one at a time & allowed to set, so I doubt that's an option. Whatever else you do, make sure the contractor builds in adequate expansion joints. On a walk like what you described, I'd suggest at least one every six feet or so, but hopefully your crew will know what's needed for your climate.

If you haven't poured it yet, you have a lot of finish options. Here are a few ideas...

1. Exposed aggregate. (the "pebble" surface you often see on old walks & such) Most concrete contractors can handle this as it simply involves pouring regular concrete (preferrably with nice looking pebble aggregate) and then slowing the set on the surface so that the surface "cream" can be washed away expossing the gravel content in the concrete. Easy to maintain & looks much more attractive than plain concrete. Better wet traction also.

2. Mixed Pattern/Poured. Combine some brick, stone or even pavers in a pattern into the form along the edges or even to break the walk into segments, then just use the concrete to fill in the spaces.

3. Post pour decoration. Another option would be to simply impress smaller decorative stones (like river rock or mexican "moon rock") or ceramic tiles right into the unset surface as soon as the contractor has finished trowling it smooth. I've even seen broken pottery & ceramic pieces used that looked great. This can be done randomly or as part of a larger pattern. You could even break up the narrow linearity by laying down a "curvy" path design within the walk's straight edges.

4. Strong Textures. These can be accomplished once the concrete has been floated and can be done with a stiff broom, a notched trowel or just about anything that will make a pattern in wet concrete. One of the coolest walks I've ever seen had a kind of Art Deco pattern the owner had made using several different sized plastic notched trowels (a very cheap basic masons tool) to make various patterns about an eigth of an inch deep. He free-handed the whole thing going in behind the contractor as soon as it had just a little surface "set" and it turned out to be amazing. Just wish I had pix but it was years ago & far away now.

If the concrete has already been poured, your best bet is probably to color what you have...but no matter what you are told...forget about using any kind of paint unless you just like reapplying the stuff on a regular basis.

1. Color Stains. Be advised that there are a couple of types of colorants that call themselves "stains". Some are simply strong surface colorants and will wear pretty quickly. The only permenent colors are what are known as "Acid Etch Stains". Really a misnomer as they don't so much "stain" as they chemically react with the cement near the surface. The concrete really needs to be fully cured (28 days) to properly apply either type. These are available through any concrete specialty supply and actually are fairly easy to use. Just remember, they are indeed acids (albeit, pretty mild as acids go), and follow all the precautions on the label. They are avail in a fairly wide range of colors and can even be diluted to soften their color effect and make them go farther. Runs between 40 and 50 bucks a gallon down here in Texas, but cover a fairly large area.

If you like rusty reddish browns and ambers, you can accomplish that using an agricultural product called Ferrous Oxide crystals. Super cheap. Sold as a soil & feed supplement for animals, but you might find it in "the city" through an art or chemical supply. Maybe 10 bucks for a 40 pound sack which is enough to do the entire parking lot at JFK. Harmless & easy to apply. Best for mottled "natural" looking effects (actually, that's the best approach for any stain as it is VERY difficult to achieve a uniform overall effect with stains). A couple of cups disolved in 5 gallons of water will yield a "medium intensity" stain. Randomly scattering undisolved crystals onto damp concrete and letting them sit for a while creates strong "color spots" that can be interesting mixed with an overall color application. Just let it sit undisturbed for at least a day before rinsing thoroughly. Til then, it's hard to tell what actual color/effect you have. It looks very different while working.

BIG IMPORTANT HINT: Whatever you wind up doing...have your concrete guys make you several (as many as you can press them for)seperate flat "samples" from the very same mix they pour to experiment on. No two batches ever turn out the same & all cocrete colorants can react very differently to batch variations. Test your color ideas only on these. Best if they are at least a foot or so square. And remember you can use acid stains overall or in a pattern similar to the suggestions above using rocks.

As far as sealers go, I personally avoid any "surface" sealers such as most contractors apply. They are mostly water-based acrylics and just sit on top of concrete. They wear quicker than most people will admit and require fairly expensive processes to keep up. Plus they can be very slick when wet. I much prefer a penetrating type of sealer. Most all are what is known as "solvent-based" and cost more going in, but will basically last as long as the concrete. Both water & solvent based sealers are available in a high-gloss or a "natural look". Since any gloss is gonna' wear & get dull, I prefer the natural effect myself.

Hope some of this helps and if it's any encouragement, I have a good friend who is this tiny little photographer lady. She has done all the floors in the last three houses she's had all by herself...and they all look fantastic.

Not sure if the link below has already been offered, but there's some pretty good basic info on the Concrete Network.

Good luck & All My Best,
Tango

Here is a link that might be useful: Working with Concrete Stains...

Hi,
Thanks all so much for taking the time to respond.
Yes, I understand that it would be best to wait and do some more research, but unfortunately that won't be possible considering my current situation. The crew was over today and have ripped up the wood. The concrete will be laid on Thursday, so I have to learn pretty fast! But I have faith :-).
I've posted a photo of the enture backyard, but am taking each hardscape 1 step at a time. The concrete is 1st, then a new side deck and fence repair is next. Then the BIG part will be the actual bkyard. I'll definitely be posting for assistance with that later.
Tango, ty so much for the post and options - I was able to understand things better. To answer ur question: Yes, I'd be working with concrete that hasn't been poured yet.

Option "3 Post pour decoration" seems the easiest and right up my alley. I would have loved to see a sample of the broken ceramics and pots. I have some green ceramic tiles, and am thinking of breaking up a blue ikea set of dishes (bowls, cups plates), as it's cheap and I can easily buy another set. I'm also thinking of adding some pebbles. I'll crack the tiles up tomorrow and see if I can make a walkway pattern/design.
Questions: After concrete is poured and I add the tile and/or plate pieces, do I have to do anything special?
Can I still stain the patio, without affecting the tiles or pebbles? When would I apply the stain? Any special instructions/cautions/tips etc before/ after placing the tiles?

Option "4. Strong Textures" This also sounds like an option we could do. I "get it" but can't visualize the final look. My bkyard decor will not be very art deco. But I assume the concept should work with any decor. I also assume the stain would be applied to the wet concrete, before the trowel design?

I like the Ferrous Oxide crystals idea, but am not sure I'll have enough time to find them but will try. Regarding staining/coloring in general: when is it best to apply? I'll be working with freshly poured concrete...

Thanks again all for your great help!

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:67832}}

Stylin, I've been trying to find a post that I had seen in another one of GW's forums but I can't find it now! I've gone back two or three times to see this woman's work and I know I've bookmarked it... maybe I'll cross over it again when I'm not trying so hard. Anyway, she had done her own designs, staining and concrete etching (with a diamond blade on a circular saw) and it was beautiful. She started out with a small concrete walk and was eventually doing her indoor pool and fountain areas with a similar design. I was wanting to show you for the fact that you can do it after the pour and cure and would then have time to work it into the look of the whole project.

I think your area looks really interesting. Are you aiming for any particular theme/look? Someone in here had done a French villa area and was in here showing us the fountain that they had created. They had painted their house stucco a yellowish faux look, had a bistro patio set, etc. and it was so cute. I've also seen beautiful Japanese garden areas done in the confines that you have.

Between hypertufa and concrete accoutrements added to the area and faux painting, you could really make a special place to hang out.

Good luck!

ditto tango and running dog: I have been thinking about doing a some work to some existing concrete, and this is done after the concrete is poured and has cured....but don't know if this is the route you would want to go. I'll post a link I have been looking at below. As far as stamps go, my experiece is you cannot do it on concrete like you would clay. In other words, you cannot place the stamp on the concrete and then lift and move to another area right away, the concrete "lifts" and sticks and does not leave a clean impression unless you put the stamp there until it cures for a few days, only then remove the stamp . In this case, you would need to have enough stamps to cover your whole area and leave til it sets very well......this is how one company I know did a one for a relative, but they had a LOT of connecting stamp forms......I wish you well with your project, but I feel you did not leave yourself enough time for research, too. There are a lot of finishes you can do after the concrete cures.....you may want to google "decorative oncrete finishing"

Here is a link that might be useful: Engraving finished concrete

Wow, this is an interesting thread. You have quite a project ahead of you. I also agree not enough time to really plan it out though. This is such a permanent product to work with I wouldn't try anything to radical because you could then dislike it for years. Maybe some leaf imprints would be a safe way to go, perhaps a little inlaid mosaics in a few carefully chosen spots. Your window of opportunity for this will not be long.Good luck with what you decide, and share the after pics pls.
Cindy

I'll definitely post pics of the process and final outcome. I have faith, that with help, I'll figure out something that I'll be happy with in the long run. I just absolutely dread the thought of plain gray concrete in the area.
Ok new thought for today: After concrete has cured slightly, buy a pack of stencils and use chemtone stain from www.decosup.com/acid_stain.html, to spray over top of stencils. I do have a paint sprayer, so I figure this may work for the area...
I can use the ceramic tile mosiac idea for other parts in the backyard garden.

Hey Stylin --- Your "terrace" has great potential! Should be a great spot to hang.

As for post pour color...no rush. You really need to allow the 'crete to cure for at least three weeks and preferrably a "full" 28 days before you stain it ,no matter whether you use acid stains or the ferrous oxide...so you have time to read up & experiment a little.

Also, neither of these stains will affect the stones or any ceramics...they only react with cement. I've heard that the oxide can sometimes leave a stain on wood sometimes if it is allowed to dissolve and sit there long enough, but it is the chemical reaction with the cement in the concrete that creates the color.

And roger the "strong textures"...they can mimic flowing water (think Zen Gardens), grass & tree forms or just about anything you want. It has endless possibilities & can be paired with the other techniques very easily. You can even "practice" with a few different types of trowels and a big tray of mud to see what different effects & patterns you can come up with.

One option that has not been mentioned is what is known as "integral color". This comes as either a liquid or dry powder and is added at the time the concrete is mixed. It is 100% permenent, but can tend to look a little "flat" on some applications. While you often see it used to create very strong coloration, I personally think the best effects are when it is fairly sublte and just takes the "grayness" or coldness off the concrete a little. Some of the lighter and more neautral colors are great when mixed with the kind of effects you seem to be moving towards...and...stains or glazes on top of subtly colored concrete can look really wonderful. They tend to highlight any texture that's there.

Anyhow...as you can see there are endless possibilities. And below is another link. This site has some pretty good color charts, but you still have to "squint & imagine" how they might look if you cut the color way back. Good news is, most contractors can provide actual mix samples in advance.

Best of luck and no matter what else you do...have fun.

All my best,
Tango

Here is a link that might be useful: Nice Color Charts

Stylin --- good thinking! Stencils are a great way to create patterns. And its easy to make your own as well. Even tape can be used to delineate different areas. Sounds like this is gonna' be a thoroughly fun & interesting patio when you are done. Go for it!

Well, the rain has saved me for a couple of days, so although the deck has been ripped up the job has been postponed until Tuesday.
The contractor says he has different trowels and is experienced at creating cool designs. He also is pushing towards the mosaic look. I'm grateful that he has been willing to work with me and is eager to try something new/different (The company's main client is the city, so beyond sidewalks, there is no creativity) to expand his experience.
I'm so relieved that the concrete should cure for a mth before adding color. Not only does it give me time to learn how/what to do, but hopefully I'll get the rest of the bkyd fixed up 1st, so I can decide on which color/stencil pattern would most compliment. Seems like the concrete treatment may be the last on my list of my summer projects - and oh what a list it is!!
THANKS AGAIN ALL! I'll keep updating the post as things progress :-)

Stylin --- just a little negotiating hint on working with this contractor (and it sounds like you've found a pretty good one). Make the point with him that doing a bang-up job on your project really can open the door to the high-paying, custom residential & architectural work that's out there and pays WAY more than the crummy triple-bid city sidewalk jobs...and...that if you are satisfied with his work, you will be willing to let him take photos of your project to advertise his capabilities and even write him a testimonial (since it's your property, you don't have to allow any photography). Should be a good motivator and a win/win proposition.

Keep us posted --- Tango

Looking for a good color for new stamped concrete patio scheduled to begin on April 23. Would like something in the light tan range with a complimentary accent. My concrete guy works with Davis integral colors. He suggested Sandstone with a darker release. San Diego Buff looks nice, but how can you tell from a little color card? Any ideas?? Pictures would be helpful.

Thank you

Stylin-- I just read this and now I am "dyeing" LOL to see pictures. How did it go? Where are you at on your project.

Hi, Newbie,

How did your concrete staining come out? I am faced with the same need... just poured new sidewalk and parking pad, long curved path to 24' x 24' parking, and they are so blinding white, the light just glares into the house.

A nice rusty color would soften it. Please post again with results. Or anyone else with results. Am considering taping off fake pave stones with duct tape, and coloring the 'stones' with ferrous oxide, when it is cured in about 3 more weeks. Thanks a bunch!!

Stamped concrete can be great.. We had an awful experience though. Just be sure to find a reputable contractor with references! That is where we went wrong... check out our blog for what you dont want to happen and some references to other helpful sites.

Here is a link that might be useful: ConcreteNightmare