Doing great Billie,
Was planning this for a class.
Make a container - imprint a leaf, add some color .

Many posts ago you showed a picture of some smaller containers, with leaves. They looked great. Thinking about trying that for the class.

I did do the two mix experiment with a flat stepping stone like mold. I worked well. And assumed that would work for a container. But was trying to keep it as simple as possible. Hoping to get a better leaf, (used oak leaf hydrangae, and viburnum and Stachys Helen Von Stein) and maybe keep the mix on the fine side, so I would only have to have one mix in the wheelbarrow.

I like the idea of adding some chunking peat in strategic locations - will try that and let you know how I do.

Also talking about how to color the imprinted leaf
Once leaf is removed, using craft paint, will paint entire leaf dark color. Then with a sponge brush, lightly overlay brighter colors. Two or three colors.

This will be tough for class - Usually class is one day. And I send them home with tufa in inside mold. Think that was another one of your ideas! Anyway - I do demonstrate how to remove from mold and texture, I guess I could also show how to color the leaf. Any suggestions -

Thanks - Happy Summer == Mike

Mike, For classes doing a leaf imprint, I do exactly the same if it was a regular trough. I use the plastic bowls as molds and show them how to insert the leaf. I have two sample pieces, one I make the day before to show them how to unmold and one that's cured to show them how to paint or stain. You can make tiles instead of containers for the paint samples, it's easier. I've been using plate plates lined with plastic dry cleaner bags to make simple round tiles. Put the plastic wrap on the plate, put the leaf on the plastic wrap, put a hypertufa patty on top of the leaf and gently press, put whole thing in a plastic bag and unmold the next day. I just put them in a bucket of water right away to leach out the lime. I usually put everyones name in a box and pull a winner and they get the painted tile or unmolded fresh planter.
Regarding the painting part, I paint the whole leaf one color then I dry brush the accent colors. You have more control with a brush. My class for plain or decorated (leaf imprints, stones, glass marbles) planters usually run 2 hours. I haven't posted pics (and I'm terrible at taking them) in a while. Hope this turns out.
[URL=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/Billieann/a5957417.jpg][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/Billieann/th_a5957417.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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STACHYS

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OAK Leaf Hydrangae

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Oak Leaf - Using two colors of Cement Stain

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Another Oak Leaf Hydrangae using craft paint

Mike, What's the border around the leaves? Do you cut out or chip out around the leaf? These turned out fine. These look like some of the ones that you used the two different mixes.
I see as usual that my great computer skills didn't post any pics. I'm trying to post those bowls and tiles again. Billie

Here is a link that might be useful:

The top leaf is two different mixes.
I was trying to avoid using two mixes when making small pots in class.
Your pots look great What was the mix used?
The others, --it may just be the light when taking the picture and the way I paintedit.

The circular oak leaf was two colors but was the same mix - I am not sure how the edge was so deep. Maybe I left the leaf in too long. I like this one the best.

I usually try to take out the leaves the next day as you suggest.

There are others that did not turn out that good, The mix was too coarse, resulting in lots of pockets on the surface. I guess I need to screen the peat better

Thanks Mike

Mike, The mix was 1 part portland, 1 part sand, 1/2 part perlite, 1/2 part sifted peat moss.
How about sifting the peat to take out the biggest lumps? I have a couple different size sifts (English Riddles) and collanders from the dollar store that I use for sifting.
Somehow I posted my whole album of odds and ends. I'll never learn...... Billie

Gorgeous! Thanks for posting pics.
Jan

Back again
My imprinting of leaves in Hypertufa is not working out too great.
I have used various combo's of extra fine perlite, sand, portland, and peat . The peat I have screened through a 1/3" piece if hardware cloth screening.
The results are fair, but not as clean looking as Billie's pots posted above.

For me - The best leaf imprint came out when I used a flat mold rather than the bowl - Must be gravity! The bowl molds ( leaf on the side wall) never seem to be very deeply detailed.

Maybe it was my choice of leaves. The best result came from a viburmum leaf I used. -

Any suggestions on good leaves to do imprints -

FYI - I found this concrete dye on this forum and at a local concrete supplier in town. It comes in a 1 lb bag cost is reasonable, and it worked great. I plan to buy more colors and post to the web.

Here is a link that might be useful: Colors

Mike, You're right about a good imprint depending on the leaf. When I make planters, if there's left over mix, I use the left over mix for test tiles. That way I can see which leaves will work best. I just tried a pit cherry leaf with two different recipes and whatever is in the leaf is disolving the casting. Sugar?? In my album, the tile and bowl shot are viburnum and a variety of the annual Dusty Miller called 'New Look'. I use a lot of coleus, salvia, basil, alternantheria, arrow wood, cotinus, some bush that grows wild in our woods, hosta--usual the dwarf variety like 'Cheating Heart' or 'Tatoo'. It hasn't been a problem for me whether the mold has a flat wall or curved. I try to work with a dry mix because a wet mix can leave bubbles under your leaves. I don't "work" the mix too much over the leaf because it can embed the leaf in the mix.
Right now I'm making leaf castings just about everyday cause Fall is just around the corner. I really like the leaf on the pit cherry tree and now I'm wondering if I can seal the leaf. I'll try tomorrow. Billie
p.s. just looked through that album I posted and forgot about the grape vine bowl. The leaves and vine made a great imprint but you need 4 hands to hold it in the bowl and place the mix over top of it. It was quite a wrestling match.

Billie - when you made the bowls or pots ( in the above photo) do you use an inner mold and an outer mold? Just wondering if that may help hold the tufa tight to the leaf.
Thanks Mike

Mike, I believe in making things easy on myself. One mold, and I mold on the inside. I just place the hypertufa mixture on the bottom and tamp it to remove air pockets. Then start making my "hamburger" 'tufa patties and placing them over the leaves. I blend all the patties together and try not to overwork the mix because the leaves can get pulled into the mix. You know all this cause it's the same thing I've been doing for years.
Something for you to try if you haven't already. While I was trying to get my half a ton of leaf castings done before all the leaves are gone I always experiment. I've been making these little blobs (blobs of mortar on plastic sheet) and pressing stuff into them for years. I leach out the lime and place them along our creek embankment and the local kids think their finding "artifacts". Anyway I tried pressing into my blobs some dried and fresh small seed pod heads and these goofy flowers that are tiny little balls. They really look great. They kind of remind me of Dena's lavendar stepping stones. Now I'm wondering how these would look on planters. Loooooong time ago I made a planter using flower buds from a weeping cherry tree. Wonder why I didn't keep making them. I remember that I liked it. Billie

Thanks for the info
I have already taken you advise on the blobs - experimenting on different viburnum leaves
Want to get some Leather leaf viburnum leaves - they look really great. Also took a Stacys Helen Von Stein leaf and put it in the freezer for a few days to get it more rigid.
We let you know how it worked, Also got a screen that was smaller, peat is real fine.

On a different note.
Smith Paints moved - and they no longer have walk in retail - which should not matter to you. They are still taking phone and internet orders for the stains and some paints. Maybe new web site as a result of the move.
I wanted to buy some stains for this weekend and they said I had to call the 1-800 # and have it shipped!

ANyway thanks for all your help --- Mike

are these troughs water proof? I'd like to make bird baths and am not having much luck with straight concrete castings. and what do you mean, the leaf would go down in to the mix? You can't clean it out or would that destroy the detail?

are these troughs water proof? no - the other ingiedents in hyoertufa - peat and perlite make the finished product unable to hold water like concrete would.--- there are ways to make them water tight - someone else may be able to answer this better. Or go to search and look up bird baths in this forum. I am sure someone has discussed already

I'd like to make bird baths and am not having much luck with straight concrete castings. -- Explain Why? and what do you mean, the leaf would go down in to the mix? You can't clean it out or would that destroy the detail?

If you look at the pictures- my leaves seem to have a deep edge. Maybe it is because when I place the hypertufa over the leaf, I pushed hard and the leaf imbeded a little. The next day the leaf came out fine - it changed the look of the finished product a little.

LOL Mike

plantman, thanks for the incredible pictures. what kind of craft paint are you using? also, i assume it is weather resistant paint? inspiring pictures.

I am not using weather proof paint. I am just trying to get the hang of painting and am only buying the craft store paint. I have placed one thing outside ( sphere) that was painted with craft store paint, but sprayed in with Thomsons Water Seal first. It holds water ( inside sphere) and outside has held up ok too. No problems after first year. However there are many more experienced out there that could better offer ideas on what type of paint to use for outdoor projects -

Thanks for asking- LOL Mike

you've done a stellar job with handling the paint & color! after 5 years of art school, i can only try to do as well as you, but first, cast something!

plantman, You are doing an excellent job, I just love the colors you have chosen.
Myself I have only been doing this type of art for a little over a year (love it!) and found the craft type paint that I use such as delta/folkart held up really well over the winter on the pieces that I left outside. The ones on an outside wall still looked like fresh paint, the leaves on stakes that were in the sun needed a only a quick color wash this spring to brighten, but really wasn't necessary. One should always use a water sealer on all items that are for the outside. Got a late start on leaves this year so I'm pretty busy now pouring concrete and even trying to get a little painting accomplished as soon after the pieces cure.
If you are interested in taking a peek, my link is below, hope to update it soon! Wendy

Here is a link that might be useful: Webshots