My webpage ~ click on Garden Art

The poor grot in the how-to pics was broken during unpotting. I am hoping to glue it back together after it cures some more, as I was really pleased with how he came out otherwise. Any suggestions on the best adhesive to use on 'tufa? I'd like something that can stand up to the elements and not be so thick as to be really noticable. Thanks for any suggestions.

Mike

Your grots are great! I love the expressions you've achieved. Question for you though, are your grot-pots open at the bottom or do they have some sort of base that requires a drainage hole?

Must get busy and try this!

-GC

My last attempt to fix a broken grot with thin tufa as glue doesn't look so hot either. I'm hoping some adhesive may be better, but I've no idea what kind. Maybe I'll just smear the entire break with superglue and see if that holds. My own fault for breaking my rules to not pull the pot out until the third day. I was trying to get a pic of it without for the how-to. Should have left it. I never listen to myself. ;)

Mike

Jo

Anela - Thanks! I'm planning to add a 'stepping stone how-to' using rhubarb leaves next summer, so watch for that.

Mike

Mike, my only quibble is with your "Add a little water at a time and mix until wet but still very thick". I think a description like "thick cookie dough" or something would be better.

Personally I'd use a 1:1 cement:sand mix, maybe use some drywall tape, to fix the break. I've had better succes with this than adhesives.

Thanks for all your work.

GROTS RULE!

peak

I really like all of your Tufa works, but I especially want to that you for the Living Wreath instructions. I made a couple Living Wreaths this Spring before seeing your instructions and now I wish I'd waited! Your instructions are great and make the project look very easy! What time of year is best to start one? I think I'd be using Semps and maybe some Sedums. Think I'd be safe to build one now? I'm in Colorado btw.

You've got a great collection of Semps too! I just love all the redish ones!

Melanie

Mike

I do agree with Peak that it would be helpful if you could explain a little more how wet the mix should be. When you squeeze a handful of the mix, how much water drips out?

Mike, your website is lovely. It's always a pleasure to spend time there.

Eva

When you say that you walk away from your in progress pieces, do you cover them with plastic during this time, does it depend on the weather conditions (hot and dry vs. wet and humid vs. hot and humid) or do you never cover them?

Also, does it help at all in removing the 4 inch garden pot to lubricate it with something prior to beginning your grot or have you considered placing a grocery bag over the outside of the pot and then folding it into the pot? Is this necessary or is it just as difficult if you don't do it?

Sorry about all the questions but you are dealing with a scientist here! LOL

I make the mix what I consider very thick. I'm not sure how much water would come out with squeezing, but in the bucket it stands up stiffly of it's own and does not settle down as a wetter mix would. Thick cookie dough might be a good analogy.

No, I don't cover them when I walk away for a few hours. I just let them sit. I never work in direct sunlight so there is usually no danger of them drying out to quickly. I do mist them when I return sometimes if they look like they might need it.

It might help to oil the pot before starting, but I have a hard enough time getting the tufa to stay up around it that I don't wnt to encourage less adhesion. It is easy enough to remove the third day just by folding it in on itself.

Mike

Diane

Thanks so much for the tutorial. I know I never would have attempted a grot without a printable tutorial that included pics!

btw, i love you website design :)
~s_dreamer

Deb

The only grot I've made so far is one from a blob of leftover tufa (was making another newbie project). I just formed a 'squished' ball by hand, let it dry somewhat, then carved a very primitive face in it. Was thinking at the time that I'd do moss 'hair' on the bald head when it's cured...

I loved your grot's names, too. I haven't named my tiny attempt, but my BF has nicknamed it 'Turdballhead'....not too complimentary, (didn't mean to offend anybody!) but the tufa mix was heavy on the peat, it was very brown, and, well.... Obviously, I need to work on the details! LOL!

Your site is gorgeous, and very inspriational! I may also try to make a smaller version of your obelisk. Hope the weather holds out for a while longer!

- Lisa

I would love to see some photos as this is going to be my next project. I have an old hard hat and I figure this will be the perfect mold for the grots. it is made of plastic so I am not sure if I have to put a release agent in it or not. I hate to have a cement hard hat. LOL can you guys repost your grot photos for us newbies??

'Grot' is short for 'grotesque' - the name for the sculpted characters often seen decorating old cathedrals and castles. They're similar to gargoyles, but are used as decoration rather than to funnel rain water away from the building. I have adapted them to use in the garden as amusing or scary creatures that appear to be peeking up out of the ground. There are as many ways to make grots as there are garden artists to make them. These are the instructions on how to make an open-headed grot like the ones I have shown in my Grot Gallery page. I make them open-headed so they can be planted with 'hair', but they could as easily be solid.

For another grot style check out my friend Wylee's how-to page.

I find it useful to start in the morning so that I can come back throughout the day to work on the piece.

Materials:
Portland cement
fine grained sand
peat moss

Tools/Accessories:
work-board
bucket or small tub for mixing
bucket for water
rubber gloves
dust mask
4" plastic nursery pot, preferably round
small plastic bag (a grocery bag is perfect)
carving implements (such as an old paring knife)
small paintbrush (used like a small broom)
old sponge

4" pot filled with sand, and various implements I'll use later.
Set up:
Set up your work area with your tools and accessories. Try to work on a table or counter where you can comfortably sit or stand. For a work-board I use a piece of plywood covered in plastic. I prefer to work on a portable surface so I can turn the piece easily as I am carving. Put the small plastic grocery bag in the 4" plastic nursery pot and fill with sand for stability. Fold the excess plastic down to cover the sand and stay out of the way. This is going to be the center of the grot and will be removed later to leave the planting area thru the grot's head. This is optional of course. A solid grot is just fine too. Fill your water bucket and set nearby - this is used to rinse your gloves and tools as needed.

The Mix:
*Always wear respiratory protection and gloves when dealing with cement dust - it is highly dangerous if inhaled and can cause chemical burns to sensitive skin* While wearing your gloves and dust mask add one part cement, one part sand and two parts peat moss in a large tub or wheelbarrow. Make the peat as fine as possible, with no large lumps. Use whatever you like as a measuring device - I use a small bucket - and make more than you expect to use. Blend until well combined. This is the most basic 'tufa recipe, and my favorite for garden sculptures. Next, get your mixing bucket or tub and scoop some of your dry 'tufa mix into it. Add a little water at a time and mix until wet but still very thick. Let this sit for 5-10 minutes before going further.

Construction:
Start packing the tufa around the outside of the 4" pot, making a sort of half-sphere tapering at the top that is even all about. The tufa will want to slump some. Don't worry about this but do try to keep it upright as much as possible. Try to use all the mix you just made, but if you have leftover materiel discard it. Now, walk away and let this sit for several hours (3-5 is fine). After the initial materiel has set up a bit take some more of your dry mix and wet it as before and let it rest 5-10 minutes again. If the initial tufa slumped too far down from the top fill this in first with your fresh mix, smoothing it as you go. Try to disturb the initial tufa as little as possible to avoid weakening the crystalline cement bonds that have already begun to form. Use your old sponge to remove excess water puddling at the base of your grot.

The base form around the 4" pot.
Basic features have been added.
Now that you have the basic grot 'head' formed it's time to add some facials features. *Do not worry about making everything perfect at this time* When you are done with this step the features should be very rough and primitive looking. We'll fix that in the next step. I generally only do a face from the nose up, and really exaggerate the features and expressions. First I form a nose (round and bulbous? long and thin?) and add it on. The brows/brow-line go next. A nice heavy brow-line and tapered forehead are my favorites. Alot of emotion can be expressed in the brow-line - a deep V looks sinister, while soft arches or high arcs are happier and more friendly. Next I add cheekbones or maybe bags under the eye area. Eyes go on next - they can be round or oblong, large or small, lidded, no lids or lids closed - the variations are endless. I try to tuck them under the brow-ridge so they don't look 'bug-eyed'. Ears come last - they can be pointy, rounded, large or small, human or animal-like. I try to make them different every time. Let this sit for 6-12 hours, but no more than 24 or carving will become too difficult. I find that coming back to the piece as it sets up during the day and smoothing the surface and gently molding and refining the features works well for me. Remove excess water from the base as needed with your old sponge, and don't forget to rinse your mixing bucket out after each use.

Carving:
In this step I carve away excess tufa to enhance the features and refine expression. I have a variety of implements I have collected including dental tools for fine work and various sized old knives. My main goal here is to smooth out the surfaces and give the piece it's 'finished' look. Go slowly and use a light touch as the tufa is very fragile at this stage and it is easy to remove more than you intended. Use your leftover dry mix to make a little extra tufa if you need to add more to an area if needed. As you carve use the small paintbrush to gently sweep off the debris.

Left side still rough - right side carved.

Finished piece showing sharp, symetrical features.
Each feature has it's own needs:
Ears - carve around them to make them symmetrical, dig out a recess for the hearing canal, smooth out the lobes or points.
Eyes - add a pupil, which way is it looking? Up, left, right, straight ahead? If the eyes are closed or lidded enhance the edge of the eye lids. Try to keep the eyes symmetrical and round.
Nose - smooth out the nose lines. Does it need flaring nostrils or none?
Forehead - smooth, wrinkled? Does it have horns?

Finish:
After a full 24 hours do the final smoothing and carving if needed. I like to take a course cloth at this point and gently rough up the surface to expose the aggregate and peat and get rid of that flat dead cement look that the wet surface leaves as cement cures. Wrinkles, facial lines and other details can be really enhanced at this point too, since the tufa is much stronger now. Let it sit another full day then remove the plastic bag and sand from the 4" pot. Gently pry the pot loose (I find it helpful to bend it inward on itself to loosen the sides before pulling it out). Smooth out the top edge with a file or rough stone, then gently lift the entire piece from your work-board and smooth the inside where the base of the pot was as well. Rinse *gently* with the hose and set in the shade to finish curing. It will be strong enough in a few days to be handled and will fully cure in 6 weeks.

Tips and thoughts:

- Rinse your tools, gloves and bucket so that the cement doesn't cure to them.
- I found it helpful to check out websites about drawing expressions for inspiration on facial expressions and how to achieve them.
- It is very helpful to have a face of some sort nearby to look at so you don't miss any features.
- I only use the rubber gloves while mixing and forming with the wet tufa. When carving I use surgical gloves for better flexibility. Wash your hands immediately after finishing each step, and a little hand lotion helps too keep the dryness at bay.
- I like to plant the finished pieces with small grasses or other plants to simulate hair.