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grassy_smurf

Newly sown lawn - Where to next?

grassy_smurf
9 years ago

Apologies for the long post, I will try and keep it concise.
Pics in comments.

Location - Maitland, NSW, Australia.
Background - We built our new house and it was turfed with Shademaster buffalo. 12 weeks ago, after a severe grub infestation, learning this turf type wasn't appropriate for our conditions and wanting a level yard, we removed the buffalo and chose to sow our own lawn from seed.
We roughly levelled the clay base of our whole block, scattered gypsum and levelled with between 4 and 10 inches of a sandy loam soil.

We used Munn's Arid Grass seed (100% tall fescue) as this was advised (admittedly by the local hardware stores nursery guy) to be the best for our sun/shade and soil conditions. When sowing the seed we allowed the soil first to settle, then laid the seed with starter fertiliser, wetting agent and a scattering of Dynamic Lifter.
It was watered 4 hourly (or as required) to keep the top 2cm of soil moist for germination.
After 2 weeks we had great germination in most areas and the watering was tapered back to once a day over the next 8 weeks to try and foster deeper root growth (now currently watering once every 3 days as it is the height of summer here and regularly around 40 degrees C but working towards once a week)

4 weeks after seeding the lawn was mown (on mowers highest setting, all clippings bagged), and two weeks later given another dose of starter fertiliser (as recommended on the seed bag). Mowing has since been done roughly once a week at 5cm cutting height (also recommended on seed bag).

Now, 12 weeks on from sowing I have a number of issues that have arisen that I am at a loss as to how to fix.

Issue 1 - Fungus? We had a 2 week period recently of summer storms every afternoon leaving the lawn wet/damp overnight in warm temperatures which I believe has allowed brown patch (?) to get a foot in. I did no additional watering to the rain, but the rain was heavy and poorly timed for new grass! These patches are relatively circular, appear in the wettest areas of the yard, and have resulted in large patches of thatch.
My question here is, do I use a fungicide and risk altering the soil microbes, or just let better lawn practice do its job and overseed the patches come autumn, after the heat of summer? Now that the grass needs less water and everything has dried out after the rain will the fungus eventually die off as the weather cools in a few months or am I off track with that? Obviously I will remove the dead thatch before oversowing but do I do that now and risk spreading the fungus or leave it?

Issue 2 - There is a large corner of the yard that had a significantly lower rate of germination than the rest, and what did germinate has now died.
My theory here is that this area has a deeper layer of sandy loam (maybe 10 inches) and the faster drainage in this area has meant that the newly germinated seeds didn't have the same water retention around them as the seed in the shallower sandy loam with the clay base. Is this logical or is there something else I could be missing? There is no other obvious discrepancy between this patch of yard and that 5 metres away that has lovely grass other than the depth of the soil used for levelling.
So, can I add organic material here to help drainage? Or do I just oversow and water more and deeper than I did for the germination of the rest of the yard?
With oversowing, am I wasting my time doing it now (Summer)? Should I wait until Autumn/Fall and do it then?

Issue 3 - Weeds
Our block backs on to a farm, and the farmer nicely decided to slash his paddock on a very windy day just a week after we sowed our grass. Needless to say, our yard copped a battering with his airborne seeds and I now have all sorts of weeds popping up. I am currently managing them by hand weeding as I assume adding a herbicide to such a young grass would likely do more harm than good. Is this right? or is there something I could use to kill off some if not all of the weeds beginning to appear? Am I better off just going on by hand and waiting until next year for the lawn to be thicker/stronger before spraying?


Overall there are patches of amazing lush lawn, patches of fungus affected areas and patches of just down right dead grass with no apparent reason for where/why such as shade/sun, more or less water, more or less fertiliser etc. The whole lawn has had the same treatment but has such varied results.

Is it worth trying the rabbit pellet idea as an organic fertiliser, or should I just wait until next spring and topdress with a good compost? Given the soil has settled a fair bit I can probably afford to add an inch or so of good soil without raising the lawn height above pathways if that would work better.

I just have no idea where to start!! Any help would be greatly appreciated :(

This post was edited by grassy_smurf on Thu, Jan 15, 15 at 0:45

Comments (15)

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm not an expert on Buffalo and not otherwise going to comment...except to say that a photo or two always helps. Diagnosis from description is very difficult.

  • grassy_smurf
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Fungus? This is one patch that died off. Started in a small circle and spread to this size.

  • grassy_smurf
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is one section that barely germinated, and has since started to die off.

  • grassy_smurf
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks morpheuspa. The buffalo has been removed and replaced with tall fescue if that is something you know more about? I've added a couple of pics in the comments above.

  • grassy_smurf
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is the front lawn where germination was initially great and again we have started to see some grass dying off. Some looks quite grey/black while some looks brown/straw coloured if that makes a difference?

  • elleau
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    A fungus in a very small area in your lawn can affect the surrounding grassed surfaces. You should monitor your lawn weekly and remove thatch immediately with a nice rake to ensure that such problem would less likely to happen again. Make sure not to power rake. It destroys your lawn.

  • elleau
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What type of lawn do you have? It looks verdant but only got bald.

  • grassy_smurf
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ok thanks elleau. I wasn't sure if removing the thatch would risk spreading it by disturbing spores or anything.
    The lawn.is tall fescue (Munns arid grass seed)

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Sorry, I read as far as Buffalo and stopped since I went into clueless territory! :-)

    40 degrees is incredibly hot for any lawn (for us Americans, that's 104 degrees F). It's no wonder you're having issues! Regular heat of that level is a recipe for dying, heat-blasted grass and massive fungal infections from trying to keep it cool enough to survive.

    What are your winter temperatures like? Fescue might not have been the best choice for you (or it might have been a very good one, I'm not sure yet).

    Wikipedia's page on Maitland gives the following: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maitland,_New_South_Wales#Climate

    But I'm not sure how accurate that is (but the city is beautiful!). If correct, you live in an extreme southern temperate climate that's more arid than most of the southern US. Your record lows are more compatible with warm season grass than cool season. Fescue is cool season and going to be a constant struggle in that climate.

    Also, the timing wasn't great. 12 week old grass simply can't survive summer weather here in Pennsylvania (30-35 C) much less 40. Planting in very late summer, just as temperatures start to drop would have been best. This is the equivalent of a spring sowing in a harsh climate.

    It might be wiser to consider Bermuda or another warm-season grass, but I'll let the experts on warm season grasses weigh in on that.

  • grassy_smurf
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oh poo! I was only going off the guys advice at the hardware store but apparently he didn't know much (as I suspected). Admittedly this summer got hotter earlier than expected too. I was hoping for a spring sow with a good few months before the heat hit but that didn't happen.

    Ok, so is there a warmer climate seed i can oversow with that will eventually out compete the fescue that is here already? And when is the best time to sow that?

  • mightyquinnaty
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    How many hours of sunlight does your lawn get? When does the temperature there start getting cooler? I think you need to look at a Couch/Bermuda Grass for your area. You can also look into Zoysia or maybe even a Seashore Paspalum. It might be too late in the season to lay seed but that all depends on when it gets cold there.

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    >>but that all depends on when it gets cold there.

    From the chart, around the end of March things start to cool off, but their April is still warmer than my May. Given that, I wouldn't delay too much on seeding/plugging, but there's still plenty of time.

    Average lows never dip below freezing. Record lows have, but not by a great deal.

    >>I was hoping for a spring sow with a good few months before the heat hit but that didn't happen.

    Unfortunately, cool season grasses do best with an 8 to 9 month lead into summer. 'Round these here parts, we sow them in August or September as temperatures just start to drop off summer highs and evenings get just the slightest bit cooler and damper (March or April for you).

    >>Ok, so is there a warmer climate seed i can oversow with that will eventually out compete the fescue that is here already? And when is the best time to sow that?

    The time to sow warm season grasses is when it's hot, so now and through summer. Which one would be best...that's beyond me. It depends on your amount of sunlight and soil conditions.

  • SimonR
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So in Australia, buffalo turf is St Augustine.
    Like most warm-season grasses it is turf grass that is well suited to 90% of Australia. Only very temperate zones like Tasmania and southern Victoria are cool-season grasses viable year round.

    Personally, I would start over, take it as a learning experience and research a suitable warm-season grass. Choose the best grass for your situation by taking into account shade levels, traffic, maintenance inputs etc

  • mightyquinnaty
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Simon is the local expert in your neck of the woods and he has a beautiful lawn!!! He can point you in the right direction and knows how to take care of it!!

  • grassy_smurf
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks for your replies everyone.

    Simon, the turf we had was shademaster buffalo and funnily enough the shade is where it performed the worst!

    Basically our block faces west so the front yard gets all the afternoon sun and the back gets all the morning sun. Evenly split through the day, same all year round. It's basically flat except for a slight slope on the front yard so drainage is pretty good. One side of the house has no grass, the other spends most of the year in almost complete shade.

    If I am to start again, do I just mow what we have to the ground and rake/seed over or do I have to remove everything that is there?
    Do you know much about zoyzia grasses? I've read they are better suited to warmer climates and may perform better in our area.