why dont you get the name of the sub contractor from the builder... and get some specifics ...

like what the soil is..

what if any soil was added on top ...

what the actual grass is ...

etc ..

based on all you have told us right now.. i suggest watering ...

a pic might get you a grass ID here ...

ken

Thanks Ken. I'll check with builder. Mean time from builder website I found out that I have 'golf course grade 419 tiff bermuda grass'.

When my house was built in 2006 it was laid with Tifway 419 in January. Do you have an irrigation system? Just make sure the soil stays moist and doesn't dry out too much while it is dormant. Once the temperatures start to rise in March/April and you see little shoots of grass popping up start watering it every other day or every day if it is going to be hot, you may also want to add some starter fertilizer or some 10-10-10 at about 5 lbs per 1K. Do that until you can't easily pull the sod up by hand, then you can back off the water and start mowing it around 1-1.5".

A soil test would be helpful to know what your soil needs and that can be done now. Without one you can just add about 1 lb of nitrogen per month and make sure you mow at least twice a week once the grass starts taking off.

Here is a link that might be useful: Read This

Thanks!

And when MQ suggests backing off on watering, he's talking about watering frequency. Once the lawn is established you should water it a full inch at a time, but only infrequently. The biggest mistake people make is watering too frequently. In the hottest heat of summer you should be watering only once per week.