In my opinion soil tests are an expense you can do without unless you are having problems. Having said that, one person's problem is another person's success story. For example your problem might be that your neighbor always wins yard of the month and your lawn always comes in second. Then you might want to get a better soil test (from Logan Labs in Ohio) and let morpheuspa give you his opinion on how to tune it up. About all we know from yours is you don't need to add lime...EVER.

As for "trying to go organic," just do it. There's no "trying" if you just stop using chemicals and use organic fertilizers and organic solutions to insects, weeds, and disease.

With a Palmetto St Aug you should never see another weed. Mow at your mower's highest setting, or, since Palmetto is a dwarf variety, one notch below the highest setting. Then water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means one full inch all at one time. Infrequently means monthly this time of year shortening the frequency until you are watering once per week in late June, July and August. If you try to water more frequently than the grass needs it, then you are just encouraging weed seeds to sprout.

I have been organic since 2002 with my St Augustine lawn(s). I have a house in San Antonio, one in George West (for sale if you want to move there) and in Bandera, Texas. I just moved to Bandera and the lawn was about 1% St Augustine. The current plan is to encourage only the St Aug and to let it cover to fill the rest. With perfect weather that would take two seasons. We'll see what happens.

Back in 2002 the light bulb went on for me concerning organics. I realized that the ingredients in the best commercial brands were simply animal feed like soybean meal, alfalfa, corn, animal byproducts (feather meal), and other ground up nuts, beans, and seeds. When you buy animal feed at a feed store, you save about 80% of the cost of commercially bagged organic fertilizer. I started using only ground corn meal to fertilize. For years I was applying at 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. At first it worked well, but later the grass began to thin. For whatever reason I doubled the amount and everything was good again. I was starving the soil microbes at 10 pounds per 1,000. Then the Chinese started buying our corn and the price went way up. Then (about 2011) I switched to alfalfa pellets. Those things are great at 20 pounds per 1,000.

Speaking of microbes, those are the guys you are feeding with organic fertilizer. You can forget about nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. What you want to focus on is protein. Carbohydrates are the carrier, but protein is what you're after. And it has to be available to the microbes. Feather meal is not immediately available like the ground grains. Feathers take forever to decompose and don't make a great fertilizer. Get to know the protein content of the grains you have available at your local feed store and buy what...

>>In my opinion soil tests are an expense you can do without unless you are having problems.

In mine, it's good to have an initial, comprehensive test. After that, keep up with it every year or three, depending on how good the initial test was.

Grass (and anything else) grows poorly if the soil lacks resources. It's like you getting scurvy--you aren't going to clear it up on your own.

The test you posted is pretty basic and lacks a lot of information required to make a judgement on it (plus information on most soil resources). However, I can say that adding OM will make your pH matter a lot less (but won't actually change it that much). OM binds resources that plants can access even in soils with pH levels too high or too low.

That having been said, it's not a miracle worker, but it helps some.

This a copy of my test

Analysis Results
Soil pH 7.9
Buffer pH 7.95
bar graph
Phosphorus (P) 205 lbs/acre - Excessive
Potassium (K) 569 lbs/acre -Excessive
Calcium (Ca) 6637 lbs/acre -Excessive
Magnesium (Mg) 646 lbs/acre -Sufficient
Zinc (Zn) 22.6 lbs/acre Sufficient
Manganese (Mn) 211 lbs/acre-Sufficient
Boron (B) 4.1 lbs/acre -High
Copper (Cu) 2 lbs/acre
Sodium (Na) 92 lbs/acre
Sulfur (S) lbs/acre
Soluble Salts mmhos/cm
Nitrate Nitrogen ppm
Organic Matter 2.1 % (LOI)
Calculations Base Saturation
Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Acidity Ca Mg K Na Total
20.6 meq/100g 0.4 meq/100g 81% 13% 4% 1% 98%
Recommendations Lime
Crop
St. Augustinegrass(sq ft) No Lime Required
See Comments: 321,392,411,654
Comments
321 Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen or apply nitrogen fertilizer after August 15. To achieve darker green color, broadcast iron containing product or foliar apply on the turf a liquid solution of iron sulfate (dissolve 2 ounces iron sulfate in 4 gallons of water) including a surfactant (5 drops of a dishwashing detergent) per 1,000 square feet, or foliar apply a chelated iron source following label instructions. An iron solution treatment should be made as needed for green turf color between regular fertilizer applications in April and July for locations in the Piedmont and in March, July and September for the Coastal Plains (consider turf fertilizers that contain iron). Foliar apply the iron-containing solution in the late afternoon only when the air temperature is greater than 80oF and soil moisture is adequate for good turf growth.
392 In the spring when the grass is fully green, broadcast 2 lbs 34-0-0 per 1,000 square feet, and then repeat in July.
411 The extent of growth can be controlled by the amount of nitrogen fertilizer applied, low maintenance at the rate between 1 to 2 lbs nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, high maintenance between 2 to 3 lbs nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year. If the grass clippings are removed, the amount of fertilizer applied should be increased by 25% and the turf soil tested every other fall to determine what additions of phosphate and/or potash will be needed to sustain vigorous growth.
654 Soil test again next year if either phosphorus (P) or potassium (K) is high or excessive to monitor levels.

Thanks I will just do it. And will focus on is protein. And see what Happens!

I will be using Horticultural Cornmeal for fungi, gluten Cornmeal for weed control, Cedar oil for insectâÂÂs control, Compost tea. Horticultural Molasses, Humic acid, alfalfa Pellets for protein and see what happens

Thanks for your insight...... will forget about nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium

That's better!

>>Soil pH 7.9

Yeah, that's high. But St. Aug is extremely forgiving, and most grasses can be grown at that pH (but won't show the best color).

Buffer pH 7.95
>>Phosphorus (P) 205 lbs/acre - Excessive

Disagree here, as your high pH is binding phosphorus rather severely. Personally? I'd use a good starter fertilizer (get the cheapest) for three months in a row at the beginning of the growing season, then re-test at the end of the growing season.

My target for P in this case is 500 pounds per acre, or about 250 PPM.

>>Zinc (Zn) 22.6 lbs/acre Sufficient

I should say that's sufficient. For about the next fifty years. :-)

>>Boron (B) 4.1 lbs/acre -High

This is actually extremely high, but probably natural to your soil. Grass won't have a problem with it, much, but some sensitive plants simply won't grow in your gardens. Fortunately, your high pH is also binding up B and disallowing it to plants, which is good in this case.

>>Copper (Cu) 2 lbs/acre

Low, but let's solve the P issue first.

>>Organic Matter 2.1 % (LOI)

Definitely raise that.

Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Acidity Ca Mg K Na Total
20.6 meq/100g 0.4 meq/100g 81% 13% 4% 1% 98%

I have a feeling your CEC is somewhat botched by the high Ca levels, so I actually think your real CEC is closer to 15-18. It's not a big deal, anything in the 10-20 range is great.

Ca is high, so avoid lime of any type, manner, or description.

Mg is right in line, so you wouldn't need lime for that reason, either. If you did, I'd recommend a different source than lime.

K is right in line as well, although somewhat unavailable due to your high pH. In this case, the amount is high enough that I'm not inclined to worry about that.

Na is fine, but definitely limit sodium sources. Since most things simply aren't sodium sources, you're fine.

Iron: Not reported. Availability at a pH of 7.9 is extremely low, so large soil reserves will be necessary. Using Milorganite to feed organically plus add iron is never a mistake in this case.

Overall, it looks fairly good. Mind anything that might raise your pH, apply phosphorus (which is, fortunately, an acid), and feed organically otherwise and you'll have a nice lawn.